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WILLOUGHBY VERNER

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MY LIFE AMONG THE WILD BIRDS IN SPAIN

DEDICATED
BY GRACIOUS PERMISSION
ro
Her Wajesty
QUEEN VICTORIA-EUGENIE
OF SPAIN
BY HER MOST HUMBLE AND

OBEDIENT SERVANT

Nettong dy Veins

ENTERING

NEST

OF’ GRIFFON VULTURE.

egret

ieee Es
AMONG THE WILD BIRDS
IN SPAIN

rn
pan’ BY

Aw
COLONEL WILLOUGHBY VERNER

‘»
(Late Rifle Brigade)

Author of
“Sketches in the Soudan,” ‘* The Military Life of H.R.H. George, Duke of Cambridge.”

London
JOHN BALE, SONS & DANIELSSON, LT.
OXFORD HOUSE

83-91, GREAT TITCHFIELD STREET, OXFORD STREET, W

1909

\ Yori

{ GR

My thanks are due to the Editor of the Saturday Review
for permission to reproduce portions of certain Chapters in

this book which have appeared in that Review.

PREPACE,

I uAvE been in the habit of keeping a journal of natural
history since I was fourteen years of age; jottings and notes on
the habits and description of beasts, birds, reptiles, fishes and
insects, but especially birds. And I early took to illustrating my
journals by sketches in pen and ink and water-colours. | As far
back as 1874 | began to turn my attention especially to the fauna
of Southern Spain. From that time, with sundry breaks owing to
my military and other duties, I have lived much in that region and
during the last few years have regularly wintered there. I realize
more than ever that it is only by living amongst them that any
true idea of the ways and nature of wild animals can be got. So
it has seemed to me worth while to publish this account of my
life in the wilds of Andalucia.

WILLOUGHBY VERNER.

Hartford Bridge,
Winchfeld,
December, 1908.

PREFACE

CONTENTS...

CONTENTS.

List or ILLUSTRATIONS

I.—Getting Ready.

CHAPTER I.—Tue Strupy oF Wixtp Birps

CHAPTER

”

CHAPTER

I].—TRAVEL AND EQUIPMENT
IIJ.—SketTcHING AND PHOTOGRAPHY
1V.—On C.uimBING IN GENERAL...
V.—TREE CLIMBING

VI.—CurF CLIMBING

Il.—In a Spanish Laguna.

I.—A Day 1n A Lacuna
I].—Tue Harriers On:
III.—TuHEe Common Crane (Grus communis)

Ill.—Across the Plains.

I.—A Rive across THE VEGA
I].—Tue Great Bustarp (Otis tarda)
I]].—Tue LitrLte Bustarp (Ofts tetrax)

1V.—Through the Woodlands.

I.—A Day IN THE Cork Woops
IJ].—Tue Kites anp Hawks

II1I].—Tue Boorep Eacte (Nisaétus pennatus) AND THE SNAKE

EaGLe (Cirvcaétus gallicus) A; on
1V.—Tue Wuite-SHouLDERED Eac Le (Aquila adalbertt)
V.—Tue Brack Vuttrure (Vultuy monachus)

CHAPTER

Contents.

V.—Along the Sea=Cliffs.

I.—A Ripe To TRAFALGAR an
I].—Tue Common Raven (Corvus covax) ...
II1].—Tue Osprey (Pandion haliaétus)

VI.—Amid the Sierras.

I.—A Day IN THE LOWER SIERRA
I].—Tue Lesser Birps OF THE SIERRA...
III].—IN THE UPPER SIERRA
IV.—Tue Eacre Owt (Bubo ignavis)
V.—BoneE.ii’s Eacre (Nisaétus fasciatus)...
VI.—Tue GoLpen Eacre (Aquila chrysaétus)
VII.—Tue Ecyptian Vutture or NeopuHron (Neophron
percnopterus) oo S50
VIII.—Tue Grirron VuLture (Gyps fulvus)
IX.—Tue Bearpep VuLture (Gypaétus barbatus) ...
X.—THE -BEaRDED VULTURE (continued) ...

IL.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Getting Ready.

Entering a Griffon Vulture’s nest. Plate
A Nesting-place of the South African Crow
Pack horse with travelling kit
Quarters during a birdsnesting expedition... ve
Egg of Griffon Vulture (a long time exposure). Plate
A climb for a photograph
Photographing a nest on a cliff
Nest of Griffon on open ledge (a quick exposure)
A Vulture’s nest in deep shadow.
“ The back of the Rock’’ (Gibraltar) :
Climbing a big Spanish oak tree by the aid of a Sendent nee
Climbing a tall fir tree with the aid of a rope
A clear drop. Plate
(Drawn by Ida Penh ih aati “phe )
Entering a nest inaccessible from above and from below
Climber in canvas sling ready to descend a cliff
Method of carrying a long piece of rope during a climb
The Laja del Ciscar
On the face of the Laja del Gace

In a Spanish Laguna.

White Stork (Ciconia alba). Plate

Nest of Purple Heron

Eggs of Purple Heron ... re
Marsh Harrier (Circus evuginosus). Plate
Nest of Marsh Harrier ... ae
Young Marsh Harriers in nest. Plate
Common Crane (Grus communis). Plate
Nest of the Common Crane

Nest of the Common Crane (nearer view) ...
Retriever in Crane’s nest

Eggs of the the Common Crane ...

PAGE
Frontispiece.
19
27
37
38
41
42
44
46
53

X11.

IN IEE

List of Lllustrations.

Across the Plains.

A River in the Plains: evening
Great Bustard (Otis tarda). Plate
Nest of Great Bustard in bean-field
Eggs of Great Bustard

After a Great Bustard Drive

Little Bustard (Otis tetvax). Plate
Nest and Eggs of Little Bustard...
Eggs of Little Bustard ...

Through the Woodlands.

Goshawk (Asfuy palumbarius). Plate
A glade in the Cork Woods Se be

Black Kite (Miluus migvans) and Red Kite (MM. tctinus), Plate

Nest of Black Kite in cork tree ...

Nest and Eggs of Black Kite

Booted Eagle (Nisaétus pennatus). Plate

Nest of Booted Eagle in Spanish oak

Egg of Booted Eagle ee sins
Nest of Snake Eagle near summit of cork tree
Nest and Egg of Snake Eagle

Egg of Snake Eagle -

Young Snake Eagle, aged 1 week

Young Snake Eagle annoyed at being photographed

White-shouldered Eagle (Aquila adalberti). Plate
Nest of White-shouldered Eagle in Spanish oak
Black Vulture (Vultuy monachus). Plate

Black Vulture leaving nest (No. 1.)

Doroteo reaches the first stage, 4o ft. from ground ...

Doroteo nearing the nest

Author in Black Vulture’s nest

Nest and Egg of Black Vulture ...

Black Vulture leaving nest (No. 2.)

One of the Siete Picos, Sierra de Guadarrama

PAGE
124
131
139
wis)
146
149
152
toa

List of [llustrations. Xill.

V. Along the Sea Cliffs.

A summit of the Sierra above Trafalgar Bay ee Seis se “234
The Strand of Trafalgar... a ae us sf se) 235
Common Raven (Corvus covax). Plate ae Sir a eee
A Raven's nest in a deep fissure ... nes er ois wee 247
Raven’s eggs ... ae ae sis wie we 249
Osprey (Pandion haliattus). Plate... oo eae Cr oh 5d
An Osprey’s stronghold .. Nee ee ae Site sa “257
Descent to an Osprey’s nest “ee ee ae & cosy 259
The Ospreys’ cliff ae vite eae ies ae aw - 26%
An Osprey’s nest Foe ae eae ea oe . 263

VI. Amid the Sierras.

Rock sepulchres and cistus ae af ae ss tas | 270
A Vulture’s cliff ahs sie a ae 272
The reverse slope of the summit Be the cliff dis ae ai 275
Sandstone cavern above pool in bed of torrent nee fs 3 283
Sandstone cavern near a summit of the lower Sierra re ... 288
Cavern showing cavities formed by sand-blast sie = as 201
One of the old Moorish villages in the upper Sierra sas an 207
A gorge in the upper Sierra ob es a AS ws 299
La cueva del Gato (whence issues a subterranean stream) ... sis, «300
A big cavern in the upper Sierra (point where stream enters) St =302
A summit in the Serrania de Ronda sie ate sins ... 306
Eagle Owl (Bubo ignavus). Plate... ae sah sic3 oe, QUE
Nest of Eagle Owl on terrace on cliffs... sks mr vas, 316
Nest of Eagle Owlin cavern... Ete fF See her 319
Young Eagle Owls in courtyard ... 320
Eggs of Eagle Owl in nest in cavern ee . wae a ee
Profile of Eagle Owl's crag 322
Young Eagle Owls in nest ne sje ret ee wee 324
Descent to nest of Bonelli’s Eagle. Plate... se re . 330
Nesting-place of Bonelli’s Eagle ... a Sse AS. a4.
Nest of Bonelli’s Eagle... cee Se a i ey
Eggs of Bonelli’s Eagle ate ait ae aoe 344

Nest and eggs of Bonelli’s Eagle ne oc aac r++ 350

Xiv.

List of Lltustrations.

Young Bonelli’s Eagle in nest showing fight
Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaétus). Plate
View from a Golden Eagle’s nest

Nest and eggs of Golden Eagle ... ane
Nest and egg of Golden Eagle (site ‘‘B”’)...
Nest and eggs of Golden Eagle. Plate
Eggs of Golden Eagle ...

Egyptian Vulture or Neophron (Neophror nerenoptet io Plate

Neophron’s nest with dead rat in larder mS:

La cueva del Cuervo (nesting-place of Neophron) ...
Neophron’s nest in a narrow fissure

A Vulture’s cavern HOE

Nest and eggs of Egyptian valet! Plate

A Neophron’s nest among boulders

Griffon Vulture (Gyfs fulvus). Plate

Nest of Griffon Vulture in a cavern : fas
Nest of Griffon Vulture in a deep crevasse. Plate ...
Young Griffon Vulture, about 4 days old ...

Young Griffon Vulture, about 2 weeks old, feigning death
Young Griffon Vulture, about 3 weeks old

Young Griffon Vulture, about 6 weeks old, feigning death

Young Griffon Vulture, about 8 weeks old: the offensive-defensive

Bearded Vulture (Gypaétus barbatus). Plate

Bearded Vulture soaring around summit of crag
Quebranta-huesos, the Bone-breaker, at work. Plate...
The Bearded Vulture’s cliff, nest No. 2. Plate

Young Bearded Vulture, photographed at 24 in. distance
Young Bearded Vulture 5 Hy titel abal
Young Bearded Vulture attacks camera

The Bearded Vulture’s cavern. Plate

Egg of Bearded Vulture, nest in dark cavern
General view of Bearded Vulture’s nesting station

”

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365
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368
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372
375
377
379
381
382
383
387
392
394
396
397
399
401
402
406
416
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440
443
444
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end of book.

List of Illustrations. XV.

HEAD-PIECES AND TAIL-PIECES TO CHAPTERS.

Taking Weaver Birds’ nests in Nile Expedition se - oc I
Sailing Lifeboat off Irish Coast ee at re ae ee 2
A ‘“time-exposure”’ on face of a cliff ... ae eee eae aa 23
Ayrvievos and capsized mule ede

A Griffon Vulture’s Crag, Tangier in the distance er a tie 39
Gibraltar from the Sierra west of Algeciras... eas ao Mae
Eluding Bluejackets in H.M.S. ‘‘Simoom”’... igi vie 0 4o
Climb round “the back of the Rock ”’ sae des Sa re ay)
The Raven’s nest in the corkscrew pine ae Se se = 50
Climbing Irons, Casting-line and Lead ae ae ae =; . 7O
A slippery hitch on face of a cliff 71
Along a ledge to an Eagle’s nest at ae ae eae ws. 90
Wading in a Laguna : Gee ioe ase ae so «OT
Grey-lag Geese flighting at aeriown ae ae sie sie .-» 100
Marsh Harrier hunting over Laguna ... Me ape tae ap 4 CLOT
Cranes on line of migration ... “int woe ae Ee .. 106
Reconnoitring a Crane’s marsh ee oss ne wef is OF
Crane simulating disablement ee ee fe side efile Ui
Mounted cattle-guard on the Vega... es su oe: aa 23
Chased by a Toro bravo as Bee Ste se ee ergo
Great Bustard falling to shot are Bas 7 a see) DSI
A horse-load of Great Bustard fe a Ps ae sca RMS
A cattle-herd on the Vega... sen 5a wis oe neon SLAG
Little Bustard on the wing ... Bie ae a ae sor 055
An old cork-oak tree : 5: ont Be en Pe CS)
Gibraltar from the Cork rood: oa ae =e Pee LOS
Red Kite on the wing 6 vee ep ne ars ee LOG
Jimena de la Frontera aus st — Se a et Uy)
Snake-Eagle sis ee Aa ty. FE ae eh 7S
Egg of Snake-Eagle Se sia, ay oe ar “>, «IQS
White-shouldered Eagle’s nest in marsh oe Fe A: He ELOO
Chased up a tree by a young bull ae as Aes see e209
Black Vulture’s nest in lofty pine Se Ase sae ar case 2LO
Photographing Black Vulture’s nest on summit of pine ... 23 eas, 292

The cliffs of Trafalgar eas 4 aoe si ees en 3285

XVI. List of Illustrations.

PAGE
Spanish Falucho off Cape Trafalgar ... ae ba ae 240
A Raven's two-fronted residence tee ae Sa8 eee soa Bi
Gibraltar from the coast of Morocco ... ss a aS 606) ARS
Sea-caves at the back of the Rock... ad 565 on soe OR
Nest and eggs of Osprey... sits 6 se spo AS
A natura! tunnel through a Vulture’s cliff ses fs aes seem 205
Cape Spartel and Atlantic from the Sierra wate sist oe son 27/9)
Lowering climber single-handed a ee ne Abc --. 280
Nest of the Black Wheatear or Pedrevo ac ons oe sae 6208
A Bearded Vulture’s nesting-place_.., oe ao ve zoe
Gibraltar from the Sierra near Gaucin ee she ae soo Shih)
A descent to Eagle Owl's nest without a rope ... me sa soe Se
View from Eagle Owl’s nest in cavern ae ae ae z0 329
Bonelli’s Eagle... San 35 556 bos S19
Photographing nest of Benelli s Bante oe ars any te 354!
Descent to Golden Eagle’s nest with rope abe ato S60 506 SNS
Egg of Golden Eagle eee nt 58 sen aoe wae. = SFL
Egyptian Vulture and nest ... tos aoe 3: ae eer 372
The Sierra above the ruins of Belon ... a ae i bea) stels)
A wounded Griffon Vulture ... on 50 aes Be ee SOF,
Griffons fighting over carcass in water Ri ba iss a1 400
Clearing a jambed rope on a cliff aes ae aes ses 250 A407,
Quebranta-huesos, the Bone-breaker ... aoe one anh son, 18 ¥6)
A false descent on a big cliff... doe ioe Se ae doy

Bearded Vulture looking out of nesting-place ... ae ae we 457

IL—GETTING READY.

CHARTER: f.
THE STUDY OF WILD BIRDS.

Popular view of birdsnesting—The true naturalist and the destroyer of life—The
egg-dealer versus the birdsnester—Bird destruction versus egg-taking—A love
of birds a matter of heredity—Keeping cage-birds—Training Hawks and
Falcons—My first nests—First lessons in bird-watching—The training of a
field naturalist—First go to Southern Spain—Meet Lord Lilford—and Colonel
Irby—‘‘ The Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar ’’—Crown Prince
Rudolf of Austria’s visit—Birdsnesting at Home and Foreign Stations—In
Nile Expedition, 1885—In South African War, 1899—Literature dealing
with Spanish bird-life—General arrangement of book.

HANK Heaven, I’m not reduced to
birdsnesting !”

It is many years since these words
fell on my ears. That they were
uttered by an individual of no im-
portance is immaterial; for me their
interest and value lie in the fact that
they express to perfection and in the
briefest possible manner the attitude
of the vast bulk of one’s friends to-
wards the branch of ornithological
study which I have pursued with

unremitting determination ever since

I was a very small lad.
The immediate cause of this profound remark is not without

interest and may perhaps serve to point a moral to those who
I

2 The Study of Wild Birds

habitually deride that which is above their intelligence. At this
time my regiment was quartered in Dublin; it was in June. Owing
to the usual military exercises and work carried on during the
summer months it was not easy to get away from the garrison,
save now and again for a couple of days and very often that could
not be managed. The inevitable consequence was that a large
number of young officers possessed both of the means and the
desire to go on endless rounds of amusement found themselves
unable to take advantage of the seductive pleasures open to them.
It is one of the curses of peace-soldiering that the work is so
calculated or rather miscalculated as to bring the minimum amount
of advantage to the Service and the maximum amount of worry
and waste of time to those engaged in its execution. Under such
conditions anything which can conduce to giving officers and men
a change from the red-tape and routine is of great value and
the surest antidote to an attack of ‘‘ grousing.”

In accordance with the habit of my lifetime, since I had arrived
in Dublin I had been keenly on the look-out for some fresh locality
where I could visit some of my beloved birds and learn more about
their nesting habits and I had recently obtained permission from
the owner of a rocky island off the east coast of Ireland to visit
it with that object in view. Accordingly I went to our barracks
to enlist recruits for a forty-eight hours’ expedition and had no
difficulty in getting all I required. It was whilst engaged in the
necessary instructions as to food, equipment and ropes, that a
sapient young officer made the remark with which this story begins,
prior to calling for another: cigarette and strolling out of the ante-
room. The reproof thus conveyed to the party of miserable birds-
nesters was none the less pointed in that its author proceeded to
the Yacht Club at Kingstown from the window of which he could
look at other people’s yachts at anchor and at stated intervals
bore his friends by his views on the length of the boom of the
Britannia or some other abstract nautical topic.

“Reduced to Birdsnesting ” 3

Suffice to say, my “reduced” party who had not been too proud
to reduce themselves temporarily to my level accompanied me to
the island where we stopped for a night. We were rewarded for
our two days explorations by some of the most splendid scenery,
innumerable wild flowers and some grand cliffs where Guillemots,
Razorbills, Puffins and various Gulls nested in profusion. The
following day it blew too hard on the land for our chartered fishing-
smack to come out and take us off, but this was but an added joy
for it resulted in my obtaining the use of the coastguard’s lifeboat
and sailing her under close-reefed lug with the wind about three
points on our quarter through a glorious sea to a small haven on
the mainland under our lee.

The memory of that delightful expedition (and it is in very truth
only one of many hundreds in which I have taken part) is ever
fresh and I can still see the myriads of rock birds wheeling around
the precipices on the face of which we scrambled and hear the
roar of their combined ten thousand cries. Nor have I forgotten
the feel of the helm of the lifeboat as she strove to run off a big
following sea. Those of my brother officers who accompanied me
on that trip speak with enthusiasm of all they saw to this day. So
I am content to think that although we could not smoke cigarettes
or look at the A7zfannza’s boom we saw other things which gave
one an added joy in life.

Those who read these remarks on birdsnesting may very natu-
rally ask whether it is my aim and object to induce everybody to
become hunters and robbers of nests. I need hardly say that nothing
could be further from my intentions and that I should view with
dismay any serious increase in the numbers of those who harry
and harass wild birds especially the wild birds of the British
Islands during the nesting season. Should the story of my birds-
nesting experiences therefore be likely to lead to this undesirable
result, nothing would induce me to give it to the world. But all

4 The Study of Wild Birds

my experiences lead me to an exactly opposite conclusion, for
I am positive that the more men take a rational interest in the
study of natural history in all its branches, the less desirous are
they, without good and sufficient reason, to do aught which may
tend to the destruction of rare and beautiful things whether they
be animals, birds, insects or flowers. I have myself gone through all
these phases and watched them over and over again in others. To
cite my own experiences : a beginner, I was anxious to see and handle,
skin and preserve any rare wild bird. This naturally led to the
slaying of those that came within my reach. I had no one to
dissuade me from such a course. Further in those days there were
no good coloured illustrations of birds available for the ordinary
student and the only way to get an exact idea of the colouring
and plumage of a bird was to kill it. Very soon however I realized
what a mistake it was to destroy wild life merely to gratify my own
curiosity about certain matters connected with it. Added to which,
the absurdity and inutility of doing so gradually dawned upon me.
I became painfully aware that stuffed birds, save those set up by
a master-hand with all their natural surroundings, regardless of cost
and of space occupied, were but pitiful objects. The late Mr. John
Hancock of Newcastle, a great personal friend of my father, whom
I had the privilege of knowing, first brought this home to me
and when, some years later, I took a humble share in procuring
and arranging some of the birds and nests for the British Museum
(Natural History) I saw how utterly absurd it was—to put it on
the lowest grounds—for the ordinary individual to attempt to form
a collection of stuffed birds. As a consequence, for many years
I have refrained from killing any birds save when required for
collections like our National one or for some other well-accredited
museum or for naturalists of the type of Lord Lilford who require
specimens for legitimate scientific purposes.

So much for the birds themselves. Now for their nests, eggs

The Varied Interests Involved 5

and young. If a collector of eggs restricts himself to taking the
eggs he genuinely wants for his own collection or for those of his
friends who may ask for a particular species, very little harm will
follow. Unfortunately some birdsnesters seem incapable of restrain-
ing themselves and take all they find on the idle plea that they
can “exchange” their superfluous specimens—a plea worthier of
the postage-stamp collector than of the naturalist.

Even worse than the exchanging excuse is the habit of employ-
ing paid assistants to harry nests. Eggs thus taken are valueless,
for such mercenaries naturally have no discrimination and sweep
a whole district of every egg without remorse. I know of men
who have boasted of taking over a thousand eggs of the rarer
Waders, &c., in a week or so.

After all, the whole fascination of the art of nest-finding is the
personal experiences of the seeker. To locate a wild bird, to
study its habits, follow it to its nesting haunts and discover its
secrets, are the points which give zest and interest to the occupa-
tion. If in addition the student can secure photographs of the
birds or their nests or both, there is a fresh factor of permanency
to the operation. Lastly if the quest of certain species leads
a man to climb mountains, explore remote marshes or make
adventurous sea trips, there is literally no limit to the variety of
experiences which are comprised in the single word “ birdsnesting.”

For many years I have made it a rule to invite friends to come
with me on my expeditions and so far from my having by these
means added to the destroyers of bird-life, | am convinced I have done
the opposite. In only one instance has my trust in such people
been betrayed ; one of my gzasz pupils took to paying people to
harry nests—an outcome of defective education and presumptuous
ignorance of the subject.

On the other hand I have demonstrated to scores of men how
much pleasure and instruction can be got from studying wild birds

6 The Study of Wild Birds

in their haunts and further, how this pleasure can be gratified to
the full without taking the eggs or young or slaughtering the parent
birds.

A favourite excuse with students for taking bird-life or robbing
a nest is the natural and reasonable desire to verify some point
about which they are in doubt. In these cases as in most others,
every man is the best judge of his own motives and innumerable
cases may and do occur when such conduct is thoroughly justifiable.
But I would plead for the birds that whenever possible they should
be given the benefit of the doubt. The longer one lives the more
one realizes how seldom it is necessary to destroy life. I can recall
a case over twenty-five years ago when [| found a small nest in
some rank grass and brambles. It was clearly either that of the
Willow Warbler or of the Chiff-chaff. To watch the bird and
identify it as it re-entered its nest was impossible owing to its
snake-like habits. To kill it was simple enough. The third way
was to make a horsehair noose and adjust the loop over the
entrance to the nest. In five minutes I had the bird fluttering
in my hand, an undoubted Willow Warbler; next moment it was
released. Where a species abounds and time presses, it may of
course be reasonable to kill the old bird but this should be ever
viewed as the last resource.

But I must explicitly disclaim any pretensions to merely being
a bird-watcher, one who never molests a nest. I have robbed many
nests, possibly those of more species than most people in pro-
portion to the countries I have visited. But I have found most of
them myself and taken nearly all of them with my own hands.
The limits imposed by endeavouring to adhere to these two rules
are much narrower than most people would imagine. In the few
cases where | have departed from them it has been owing to
pressure of time or the impossibility of my being in the district

at the season when the eggs are laid. Take for example several

Birdsnesting versus Bird-slaying 7

of the species which nest north of the Tweed; a country I have
never visited save in the shooting season.

In this case I confess to numbering in my collection a few eggs
taken by ornithological friends, who in return have received from
me specimens from Spain which were for similar causes beyond
their reach. But “exchanges” conducted on so much narrowed
and well-defined a basis are not to be classed with the havoc
wrought by the man who takes twenty or thirty sets of some rare
bird’s eggs, on the ground that some day in the future they may
have a pecuniary value as media for ‘‘ exchange,” setting aside
actual sale.

Your true birdsnester will ever view eggs obtained by ex-
change merely as stopgaps to fill the links between species he has
taken himself, and which are to be weeded out, should fortune sub-
sequently enable him to watch the birds and get the same eggs
himself.

As to buying eggs, perhaps the only egg which can reasonably
and legitimately be bought is that of the Great Auk, for it is
clearly impossible to take it oneself or get others to take it.

It is not uncommon to hear men who are keen ornithologists
but who for various reasons such as want of time or of opportunity,
physical inability, lack of nerve or aught else, have never taken to
the absorbing study of birds in their nesting haunts, decry the practice
of taking eggs as certain to lead to the extermination of species ;
and at meetings of our scientific societies I have heard with some
amusement such men describe themselves evidently with conscious
pride to the audience as not being “ egg-stealers.” That some of
them were notorious and open ornithological evil-livers and system-
atically destroyed the lives of hundreds of birds seemed not to enter
into their minds at all. The historic result of killing the goose that
laid the golden eggs is known to all. Save only a few species which

exist in small colonies whose nests are easily found and egys still

8 The Study of Wild Birds

easily taken as for example the Sandwich Tern, it is safe to say
that few birds have ever been exterminated by simply having their
eggs taken.

It is where the slaughter of the old birds is made the objective
that the danger of extermination comes in. Such was the fate of
the Great Auk and the wingless birds of the Southern Hemisphere.
But egging like everything else must be conducted on intelligent
and reasonable lines.

On this point I venture to assert that I have possibly more
practical experience than most ornithologists and for the simple
reason that as this book will show it has chanced that I have
had opportunities for visiting and re-visiting the same breeding
stations of certain birds at frequent intervals for over thirty years.

Briefly, my experiences are that no amount of egging will
ever drive away birds but that the moment the gun and trap are
employed to slay the parents, there is grave risk of their
disappearing altogether from the district. True it is that for a time,
especially in a wild country like Spain, a bird may find a new mate
to take the place of its dead consort; but the process cannot
go on for ever.

Probably most readers of this book who are not ornithologists
will be surprised on reading how nests are occupied by the
same species year after year for an indefinite period, but it
is the regular custom of the larger and easily recognized species
such as Eagles and Vultures and it is one very easy of proof.

In only three instances since 1875 amongst hundreds of nests
visited and dozens robbed do 1 know of the nesting species dis-
appearing from localities. Every time this was due to the slaughter
—not by me—of the parent birds, not to the taking of their
eggs or young. Most usually when birds’ eggs are taken they
will soon nest again. I have proved that this is the custom with
most of the larger Raptores. Even where the second laying is

Keeping Cage-birds 9

taken these birds will merely shift to an alternative site for
their next attempt the following year and no amount of harrying
seems to deter them from trying again and again to nest in cne
of their three favourite spots—three is the usual number. But
when gun and trap or worst of all poison is brought into play
their days are numbered and the wanderer like myself on
revisiting some wild spot finds the favourite nesting-places
untenanted.

I may mention that my views on the comparative damage
done by the destruction of birds and the robbing of their nests
are cordially endorsed by Mr. F. C. Selous, the famous hunter
of big game and enthusiastic birdsnester.

People have often asked me how, when, and why I acquired my
love of birds and bird-life. The only reply I can give to this is
that it is apparently a question of ‘ heredity.”

My grandfather was devoted to birds and some of the earliest
pictures of birds I can remember were drawn and coloured by him
in the early years of the last century. My father inherited the same
taste, but in his case it took the form of enthusiastic fondness for
keeping cage-birds of all sorts. In this he excelled to a marked
degree, for him no species was too delicate or too difficult to feed,
and although, as with all cage-bird fanciers, his collection mostly
consisted of Finches and Larks, he did not hesitate to keep and keep
alive in health any soft-billed birds he took a fancy to. Blackcaps
and Nightingales were numbered among those and [| can recall
more than one Nightingale which he kept in beautiful song in
a small cage, no mean achievement. To accomplish this, some
natural food was necessary and this want was met by a liberal supply
of meal-worms which habitually escaped in his room and it was
generally believed that it was due to the requirements of the
Nightingales that a peculiar breed of cockroach was introduced
into our house. But my father’s great achievement in the keeping

10 The Study of Wild Birds

of birds, so long as he had health and strength, was on an altogether
higher plane than cage-birds. He was one of the band of falconers
who during the years between 1845-60 practically revived the art
of hawking in the British Isles. In the training of both hawks
and falcons few surpassed him. His especial ally in this cause was
the late Francis Henry Salvin who died in 1904.

The late Lord Lilford who was ardently devoted to falconry,
although debarred by his sad infirmities for many years before his
death from personally taking part in the sport, told me how when
a lad he was taken by his father to Edinburgh Castle to see Captain
William Verner (my father’s) trained peregrines. This must have
been about 1848.

From my earliest days I can recall seeing Peregrines, Merlins
and Sparrowhawks, sitting, the former on their blocks, and the latter
on a perch, fitted with jesses, swivel, bells and leash in approved
fashion and I was taught from the time I could walk how to carry
a trained hawk on the wrist.

I have dim recollections of a splendid Greenland falcon, of which
I have a full-sized crayon portrait, drawn by a friend of my father.
A trained Goshawk also figured largely in my early days and I well
remember my father explaining to me how a sulky nature made it
doubly hard to train this species.

The last falcons trained by my father were a Peregrine and
three Merlins. With the latter we had some famous flights after
Skylarks and also the Crested Larks in the vicinity of Boulogne-
sur-Mer. It is interesting to note that the trained Merlin
is frequently unable to cope with the Skylark save when the
latter is moulting, since it mounts rapidly and gets right away,
whereas the Crested Lark has a much less powerful flight. I
remember my father’s delight at finding in an old French book
on Falconry in the days of Louis XIII., written early in the
seventeenth century that the best and most sporting quarry at

Training Hawks and Falcons 11

which to fly an émerz//on (Merlin) was the cochévis, or alouetle des
grands chemins (Crested Lark). He was doubly pleased at the
success which attended his efforts and which proved the absolute
correctness of the old writer. The last hawk I trained under my
father’s tuition was a Sparrowhawk, this was in 1868.

With regard to cage-birds, few men understood better the art
of keeping them in health and in song. He was conversant with
the songs of birds to a remarkable degree and for years was never
without a good Woodlark and a Linnet or two, the two birds whose
song he loved most.

This brings me to a curious phase in my father’s bird experi-
ments. He was an inveterate and enthusiastic breeder of mules
(much to my horror as an embryo naturalist) ; not content with the
usual crosses between Goldfinch and Canary he conducted all sorts
of weird experiments, and induced Goldfinches, Bullfinches, Linnets
and Greenfinches to mate with species other than their own. He
also took an extraordinary interest in any accidental varieties of
wild birds especially in those with some abnormal uniform colora-
tion such as a pale yellow-brown Greenfinch, as well as in those
that showed traces of albinoism or melanism.

With regard to the cross-breeding, he was ever keen to try
to develop by these means the singing powers of his birds. In
the case of pure-bred birds, he would bring up a young Linnet
within hearing of a good singing Canary and, more remarkable still,
of a Woodlark, and he certainly succeeded in getting marvellous
song out of his pets.

I think I have said enough to show that I was brought up from
my earliest days in a very atmosphere of bird-life.

My birdsnesting mania is not so easy to account for.

The first wild bird’s nest I ever found was a Linnet’s in an eyot
on the Thames near Hampton Court Palace. I broke the eggs

of course and suffered agonies. This was in 1857.

12 The Study of Wild Birds

In 1860 my father built a house in Quarr Wood near Ryde
Isle of Wight and then I had a chance of running wild and learning
to climb. I remember well my first Song Thrush’s nest and first
Mistle Thrush’s, both in the same tree in Quarr Wood. This was
also my first tree. I was then just 8} years of age.

It was now that an old family friend, seeing my mania for birds,
presented me with a book on British Birds’ Eggs with coloured
figures, by Richard Laishley, published in 1858.

That settled the matter and I read and re-read that book until
I knew it by heart. Nor have I yet discarded it. Whether it
was found impossible to keep me in clothes owing to my tree-
climbing or whether it was considered possible that I might develop
into an egging maniac, my father lost no chance from this time
onward verbally to discourage me from birdsnesting. But it was
too late and as usual, | became more determined than ever to
persevere in it.

But it was from my father that | drew both my love of birds
and the elements of the science of nest-hunting. For when he was
in want of young Linnets to place under a course of vocal instruction,
it was he who took me out to the wild downs in the interior of the
Isle of Wight and lying down, field-glass in hand, soon located
the nests of the Linnet in the prickly gorse bushes by watching the
movements of the old birds from afar. I quickly profited by such
admirable teaching and it was not long before I could find Yellow-
hammers and the rarer Cirl Buntings by employing the same tactics,
without a field-glass.

A visit to Netley Abbey, in the spring of 1862, brought me in
touch with what I looked upon as an immense bird, the homely Jack-
daw. They were nesting in the holes in the crumbling walls and my
father hoisted me up on his shoulders and I gathered many eggs
and ended up by slipping and subsiding upon his high silk hat
with disastrous results to hat and eggs. In those days gentlemen

First Birdsnesting Experiences 13

invariably wore high stove-pipe hats when they went into the world
of fashion, even to pic-nics!

It may readily be imagined that parental disapproval, combined
as it was with such entrancing object-lessons of how to get nests,
became a negligible quantity and from that time forward I have
never missed a chance, in fine weather or foul, to study birds and
their ways and I know well that there was no man on earth who
took a greater pride and delight in my small successes in the
ornithological world than did my good father.

There was one other of my father’s old comrades who, although
he died when I was far too young to profit at first hand from his
knowledge of birds and natural history, happily left a record of it
which did more to educate me in the elements of that delightful
science than aught else.

This was none less than Charles St. John, whose fascinating
book ‘“*The Wild Sports of the Highlands” was my first introduc-
tion to innumerable branches of sport and natural history. St.
John gave an original copy of his book published in 1845 to
my father who entrusted it to me. It was “ borrowed” by an
unscrupulous brother officer who never returned it. If the borrower
is not dead (as he certainly ought to be) and should he read this,
{ now call upon him to return me that book.

It was St. John who inspired me in a hundred ways to note
the habits of wild beasts, birds, fishes and reptiles, and it was
due to my father’s close friendship with him, combined with his
own love and knowledge of birds and beasts that I was brought up
to take an interest in all appertaining to natural history, an interest
which has stood me in good stead and afforded me endless joys
and happiness often amid the most adverse and depressing
surroundings.

Another very delightful book, which must have inspired
many youthful field naturalists besides me, is the Rev. A. E.

14 The Study of Wild Birds

Knox's ‘ Ornithological Rambles in Sussex,” now, alas! sadly out
of date. It gives most fascinating pictures of wild bird life in
southern England in the ‘“ forties.”

In 1874 I went with my regiment to Gibraltar and remained
there until 1880. In southern Spain and the coast of Morocco
opposite I found unlimited field for ornithological research, the
limits being the difficulties of obtaining sufficient leave of absence
and deficiency of the sinews of war to conduct expeditions,
for travel both in Spain and in Morocco is a somewhat expensive
matter.

It was at Gibraltar that I first made the acquaintance of my
father’s old friend, the late Lord Lilford, who came out in his
yacht on an ornithological expedition to the marismas of the
Guadalquivir. Here, too, in 1876 I also first met the late Lieu-
tenant-Colonel L. H. Irby whose book on the ‘Ornithology
of the Straits cf Gibraltar” was published about the same time.
From the day we first met, and for twenty-eight years subsequently
until his death in 1905, Colonel Irby and I were constant com-
panions in innumerable birding expeditions. In addition to his
great knowledge of birds, he was an excellent botanist and an
expert on butterflies, hence our trips together were unusually full
of interest.

In 1894 he brought out a second edition of the ‘ Ornithology
of the Straits of Gibraltar” in which were incorporated the notes
I had made during the preceding twenty years and a number of
illustrations from my photographs and sketches.

It was in 1879 that the late Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria
arrived at Gibraltar in his yacht, the A/77amar, bent on an ornitho-
logical expedition to Spain. At the time I was a_ subaltern
doing regimental duty and was not a little surprised to receive
an invitation from the Governor, Lord Napier of Magdala, to

meet at dinner His Imperial Highness, of whose ornithological

With Crown Prince Rudolf I

accomplishments I was at the time, I am ashamed to say, quite
unaware. Our meeting resulted in the Prince requesting me to
take him a ride into Spain the following day, the upshot of which
was that when the A/zrvamar sailed for Tangier I was bidden
to accompany him. We subsequently went a cruise up the Guadal-
quivir when, thanks to the kindness of the late Henry Davies
of Jerez and his comrades, we were permitted to explore that most
fascinating region the Coto de Donana. Here I made acquaint-
ance with the since famous “wild” camels and gathered some
eges of the Flamingo. I was naturally much impressed with all |
saw and learnt, not least with the wild camels.

Thanks however to my mentors and advisers, Lord Lilford
and Colonel Irby, I refrained from “discovering” either camels or
Flamingoes’ eggs in Europe, since I learned from them the story
of how these camels had been imported from the Canaries many
years before, and how, their owners having departed, the Spaniard in
charge of them had opened the stable door and bid them depart.
As regards the Flamingoes, it is necessary for a man to be an
enthusiastic oologist to find comfort and bliss as I do to this day
in the fact that I have found a freshly laid egg of the Flamingo
and further, dows it, in spite of the appalling mud-bath it entailed
owing to my horse subsiding.

After these delightful experiences in the famous marismas
of the Guadalquivir I accompanied the Crown Prince to Jerez
de la Frontera, where we got nests of the Great Bustard, and on
to Seville and was on the point of going with him to the Royal
preserves in the Sierra de Grédos when the Prince received a
pitiful telegram from the authorities at Gibraltar, which cut short
my career of absolute bliss and ordered me back to the Rock to
“persecute my vocation” as a subaltern on the Waterport Guard.
It was truly a step from the sublime to the ridiculous.

This was in 1879. I left Gibraltar the following year, but since

16 The Study of Wild Birds

that time have repeatedly returned there solely in quest of birds and
of sport for periods varying from two weeks to six months and more,

But my experiences of birdsnesting and studying birds in their
wild state are by no means restricted to Spain. During the course
of my military career I have frequently found myself even when
on home service, within striking distance of some favoured spot,
such, for example, as Romney Marsh when quartered at Shorn-
cliffe or Wolmer Forest when at Aldershot, where much could be
done in the bird line at that time, whatever may now be the case.
On foreign service, of course innumerable opportunities present
themselves to the man who has sufficient knowledge of the birds
and determination to seek them out. It would be hard to imagine
a more detestable quarter for the keen ornithologist and sportsman
than Malta. Yet even here I have found solace in seeking out
and visiting the nests of the Great Shearwater and Stormy Petrel !

Since all British operations for many years past have taken place
in wild regions, it follows that, when time permits, the keen birds-
nester and ornithologist who may take part in them has many
opportunities of adding to his knowledge under conditions favour-
able to collecting. In some instances our Expeditionary Forces
have operated in districts where but littlke was known of the
birds, as of much else, including the enemy! As it is extremely
unlikely that any of the—to me—most objectionable species of the
genus “military prig” found in our Army is ever likely to read this,
or, if he did, would have the wit to recognize a portrait of himself,
I may say that I have at times taken malicious satisfaction in the
stupefied appearance of this type when, on my return from some
reconnaissance, I have produced from the interior of my helmet
a nest and eggs I may have chanced to come across. To them
the mere sight of such a thing in my possession at such a moment
was distinct proof of military incapacity. Yet, so long as a man
does not permit his private tastes, such as a love of birds, to

From Gordon’s Steamers 7

hinder him in the execution of his duties, obviously nothing but
benefit can come from the habit of mind which is adaptable enough
to realize what is and what is not of supreme importance at the
moment and escapes the narrow hide-bound military convention
which prompts a man to view the Great Temple of Karnak as “an
old ruin which would make a good station for Army Signalling.”

Since this book deals almost entirely with my life among the
birds of Spain, it naturally enough includes only my experiences
in peace. Still, sometimes when I have found myself committed to
an unusually awkward cliff, | have recalled Mr. Jorrocks’ immortal
description of fox-hunting and have thought how much more
applicable it was to an expedition after wild birds in a wild country
where long marches, transport difficulties and lack of supplies, let
alone troubles connected with fuel, water, cooking and quartering,
alike combine to present a by no means imperfect image of war.
As to the precise percentage of danger incurred in fox-hunting, war,
or cliff-climbing, I must leave it to the individual opinion of every
reader who may have experience of them.

I will only cite two examples of birdsnesting on active service
which may possibly amuse and at any rate will not shock my
readers. In January 1885 the chances of war placed me for a brief
period in acting command of one of Gordon's famous ‘ Penny
Steamers” on the reach of the Nile below the Sixth Cataract.
During the fighting at Abu Klea and subsequently all the naval
officers had been killed and wounded save Lord Charles Beresford,
and he was suffering from a most painful malady which required
surgical aid and laid him on his back for seven days. During this
time, our two small steamers were employed in reconnoitring up
and down the Nile and in collecting supplies and fuel. Having
landed one day with a party of Bluejackets and Gordon's Irregu-
lars to round up some cattle, upon pushing through the groves of
pomegranate and lemon near the river, we came to an open space,

18 The Study of Wild Birds

beyond which was a straggling village which was held by the Arabs
whence they opened a sharp fire with their Remingtons. As we
were out only for a day’s cattle raid and the enemy were in force,
I gave the word to fall back through the grove to our vessel.
It was whilst thus engaged that I suddenly spied a lemon tree with
its branches festooned with the beautifully-woven nests of the small
Black-and-red Weaver-bird! I had never seen one of them before
7 situ. Unfortunately, they were eight or nine feet up, and at the
extreme end of the pendent boughs. Calling a Bluejacket near me I
besought him to give me a leg up. He replied by seizing me
by the legs and hoisting me with a jerk. I had just time to
grab one nest and stuff it into my bosom when he let me drop and
we raced back together to the friendly plank which led aboard our
‘“‘war-ship.” As we shoved off, the Arabs lined the scrub on the
steep bank and their bullets pattered against the old boiler plates
which formed our armoured topsides.

Events moved rapidly in those days and there was much to
do and think about and it was not until four days later, in our
bivouac at Metemmeh, that, feeling my shirt very scrubby, I put
my hand in and drew out the Weaver-bird’s nest squeezed as flat
as a pancake! It however, recovered its shape and is among my
treasures to this day, a memento of the furthermost point south
on the way to Khartoum, where I was able to land, as well as my
one and only experience of the nesting habits of the Black-and-
red Weaver-bird.

The second example was in November 1899 during the early
days of the Boer War. I-was with the Frontier Force at Orange
River Bridge and organized a train to support a reconnaissance
towards the heights of Belmont then strongly held by the Boers.
On reaching the high ground near Witteputs, I halted and pushed
out patrols to get in touch with those to our front. We had brought
with us a telephone from the station and the R. E. officer with me,

During Boer War 19

Colonel Kincaid, set about attaching it to the ordinary telegraph
wires running along the posts near the railway.

Looking round for a convenient post I espied a big nest built
on top of one hard by. As far as I recall, there were only three

cag I I

A NESTING PLACE OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN CROW.

insulators and wires, yet the bird, the South African Crow (Corvus
capensis) had managed to construct a compact nest composed of
various short lengths of telegraph wire and clippings from barbed

wire fences—both trees and sticks were scarce in that region. A

20 The Study of Wild Birds

Sapper shinned up and pulled out the big nest which was lined with
veldt grasses and wool and contained freshly-laid eggs. The inter-
esting point to me was that I instantly recognized them as similar to
some unidentified eggs brought to me when a small lad in the Isle
of Wight from the Cape over thirty-five years before. They were
true Crows’ eggs in shape and markings but, in place of being
green, were red-brown.

We soon joined on a wire and got into communication with
Orange River and I found myself speaking to an_ Inspecting
General who had arrived in my absence at Orange River in a
real armoured train (mine was merely an ‘‘unarmoured cruiser”) and
expressed his intention of coming on to see what we were about.
Somebody took the inevitable photograph of me when struggling
with the telephone. Months afterwards, I purchased in Paris a
reproduction of the photograph thus taken, duly inscribed ‘“ Le
colonel Kekevitch se servant du téléphone de campagne en avant de
Kimberley”! To me it recalled the whole situation, the telegraph
post, the despoiled Crow’s nest and the impassive Sapper taking
mental notes of my telephone language.

When, owing to the very serious injuries I received during
the war in South Africa, I was compelled to leave the Army, my
thoughts at once turned to Spain, where the climate would suit
me in the winter months and where I could continue and extend
my researches in the wilder regions.

‘Since 1901 I have spent half my time in Spain and _ before
the troubles became acute made an expedition to Morocco also.

Hence the birdsnesting adventures in this book deal almost
entirely with Spain. Owing to my intimate knowledge of many
remote spots in this beautiful country, explored during many
expeditions made before the war in South Africa, I am able, in
spite of the serious handicap due to my injuries, with the aid of
horses or mules to re-visit these parts. Once on the spot, I can

Arrangement of Book 21

still render a fair account of most cliffs or do a day’s wading in
a marsh, sufficient in any case to reach a nest I may want to
photograph.

The results of some of these expeditions will be found in this
book.

Those who know the works of Lord Lilford and Colonel Irby
and their unrivalled knowledge of the birds of the Spanish Penin-
sula will easily realize how much this book owes to them.

More especially several of the plates are from original drawings
made for Lord Lilford and subject to his unerring scrutiny and
approval.

But besides Lord Lilford and Colonel Irby there have been
others who have studied the birds of Spain. Among these was
the late Mr. Howard Saunders who in 1869-1871 wrote a series
of papers to the /ézs—Lord Lilford’s first papers appeared in
the /ézs in 1865-66. Still later is the book entitled “Wild Spain”
published in 1893 which deals in a popular and attractive manner
not only with the birds and general natural history but also with
a diversity of other matters such as Spanish agriculture, wine-
growing, bull-fighting and gipsies. All who are interested in Spain
should read this book. I have often regretted that it did not appear
twenty years earlier when I first went there.

In the following pages no attempt has been made to place the
various birds described in their proper scientific sequence, for reasons
which will be sufficiently obvious to the reader.

The arrangement adopted is based roughly on the usual habitat
of the birds; thus the first group deals with those most commonly
met with in the low-lying marshes of Spain and the second with
those which frequent the grass plains and open undulating country
adjacent thereto. The third comprises the woodland birds which
nest in trees in the hills around and the fourth those which usually
resort to the sea-cliffs. The Raven, although both a tree-nester

The Study of Wild Birds

lo
to

and rock-nester has been included in this group, since the pictures
given are of nests in cliffs and since Ravens are especially fond of
sea-cliffs.

The fifth and last group comprises those birds which resort
to the inland cliffs which are found in such extraordinary profusion

amid the rugged sierras of Spain.

to
ve

CHAPTER Il.

TRAVEL AND EQUIPMENT.

Time, in bird-watching, a great factor for success—Travel in wild Spain—
Camping out verysus country quarters—The minimum equipment necessary
for comfort—Saddles, pack-saddles and saddle-bags—Importance of a com-
plete equipment—What a birdsnester should carry—Use of aneroid, field-
glasses, telescope and compass—What his assistants should carry—Bird
traps and trapping—How to trap birds without injury—The joys of wan-
dering in a wild country.

N order properly to study the ways
and habits of wild birds the main
factor of success is time. Without
ample and adequate time the field-
naturalist will inevitably miss oppor-
tunities which may never occur again
in a lifetime.

Few men however can spare
the time required for thorough re-
search, so one can only make the
best use possible of the time one has.
I can recall various expeditions after

birds and nests during the last

thirty-five years, where, had it not
been for lack of time, I could have achieved successes which were
almost within my grasp but which had to be abandoned, in some

instances for ever.

24 Travel and Equipment

At no period was this more clearly brought home to me than
during my six years at Gibraltar, between 1874 and 1880. That
was in the days when no railways or other facilities for travel
existed in the vicinity (for even the road from Algeciras to
Tarifa was not then constructed) hence every expedition from
the Rock was limited to riding out between the hours of morning
and evening gunfire, when the gates of the fortress were opened
and closed. And closed they indeed were and the keys were
taken to the Convent, the Governor’s residence, and kept there.

Every expedition thus depended on the powers of one’s horse
to carry one far enough a-field at sufficient speed to leave reasonable
time for sport or ornithology.

One result was that one became a past master in the art of
packing one’s kit on horseback, for guns, food, ammunition, ropes
for climbing, and all other paraphernalia of the naturalist had to be
thus carried.

From time to time it was possible to get a few days’ leave,
generally five to ten days, and then pack-animals were called into
requisition to carry our supplies and equipment. Everybody
has heard about the discomfort of travel in Spain, should the
traveller leave the routes usually followed. There are however
degrees of discomfort in this as in other things. These can be
modified to some extent by experience in rough travel and by a
little forethought, but it is ever a difficult matter to decide upon
what may and what may not be wanted for a particular trip. So
long as one intends to stop in small towns or villages, so long will
this be the case, and every journey must be organized in view of the
locality to be visited.

My own experience was that, unless a promising expedition was
to run the risk of being wrecked for want of the bare comforts of
life, the only sure way to achieve success was to look upon a
birdsnesting expedition in a wild country much as a campaign and
to prepare accordingly for every possible eventuality.

Camping Out 25

This brings me to the subject of camping out, an occupation
which has such fascination for those who are unaware of the trouble
it means. Save in a few, very few, localities, such as certain
Sierras and in some of the more remote parts of the marismas,
tents are quite unnecessary in Spain, for it is almost always
possible to get the shelter of a roof and all old campaigners
know what that means. Tents are unsuited for most travel in
Spain, they are heavy and increase one’s transport and are
troublesome to pitch. In wet weather (and when it rains in
Spain it means business) they are miserable and in hot weather,
uninhabitable. I speak of course of the type of tent which would
be carried by a man engaged in the class of work described in
this book. On the African side of the Straits, on the other
hand, they are absolutely necessary, since Moorish villages or
encampments are unsuited for Europeans. But to travel with
comfort in Morocco means taking a regular camp equipment with
plenty of tentage both for one’s self and for one’s servants and _ pro-
vided this be done, I know of no more delightful way of seeing a
wild country, so long as the weather is passable. 1 start then
with the assumption that the wandering birdsnester so regulates
his movements as to be within reach of some farmhouse or small
dwelling where he can induce the owner to give him a room or
part of one.

In this, I have never yet failed, but simply because I let the
good people clearly understand that I want nothing from them,
save and except a shelter. They are extremely sensitive as to
the smallness of their resources and the imagined unsuitability
of their belongings for English use. But when once they realize
that nothing unusual is expected from them, they become most
anxious to show all the hospitality possible and overburden one
with offers of all they possess. I have often watched their surprise,
as they by degrees became aware that the Englishman spoke the

26 Travel and Equipment

truth when he said he “ wanted nothing.” To want nothing sounds
a great deal but in practice it is not so.

The secret of success lies in having the indispensable articles
ever with one, not because they are sure to be wanted, but because,
in the event of their absence, untold misery and discomfort ensue.
For this reason, I always carry with me in addition to a shift of
clothes and a pair of canvas shoes, the following :—

(1) Light camp bed and blankets.

(2) Portable cooking canteen.

(3) Small luncheon basket with aluminium plates, forks, and
spoons.

(4) Supplies for three or four days.

I thus am ever certain of a dry suit of clothes and a bed
to sleep on and can likewise be sure of being able to cook my
soup or make cocoa or porridge without upsetting the family
arrangements.

In Spain, no matter how humble the dwelling or how remote
from civilized parts, one can always reckon on fuel for cooking and
good drinking water, also excellent bread and frequently eggs and
oranges.

In the accompanying picture my old arrzevo Eduardo Villalva,
a friend of twenty-eight years, now alas! gone on ahead, is shown
with the whole of my kit packed for the line of march. In
addition to the already-named essentials, this horse carried ropes,
sling, egg-boxes, butterfly-net and a week’s supplies. A reference
to the pages in which I describe the equipment I carry when
engaged in birdsnesting will account for the seemingly bulky
appearance of the load. Of course, there is no necessity to reduce
one's kit to the legal minimum and, truth to tell, every year one adds
to one’s comforts. Thus it is undeniable that a canvas bath, a light
folding table, and a portable chair are pleasant additions and render
one independent of makeshift arrangements.

Saddles and Saddle-bags

to
“I

When riding a horse, it is of course most desirable to have
your English saddle with you. I have an old ‘ Service” one
with wallets and saddle-bags which, could it but speak, could tell
both of our fighting in the Desert and veldt and is the comfort of

my life. When riding mules or donkeys, the native pack-saddles are

PACK HORSE WITH TRAVELLING KIT.

by far the best and one’s saddle-bags can be thrown across these.
A good supply of Spanish adéforyas, or canvas saddle-bags are
always most useful and can be variously allotted for the day's food,

ropes &c. as may be required. The great point is to keep the

28 Travel and Equipment

various parts of one’s kit separate and easily accessible. Among
such are a good waterproof coat—no flimsy shooting cape will
turn Spanish rain—and a warm guernsey to pull on over all when
required.

It will be remarked that no reference is made to one’s servants
and cook. The reason is simple. On work such as I deal with
in this book, there is no room for such people and the man who
cannot look after himself had better adopt some other diversion.
When pack-animals are employed, the avvero or mule-driver
of course looks after them and feeds them.

I have had some amusing experiences in the hospitable ways
of the good people of the Sierras. Thus, some years ago, when
travelling with an Artillery officer we reached a house of a euarda
or keeper, who was most anxious we should stop at his place for
the night. In accordance with custom, we had all necessary
equipment. After I had cooked our dinner | asked our host to
show us the room for our camp beds. He at once replied
“Here” and brought them in. Protest was useless so we
unpacked, undressed and turned in. Presently he followed suit
and scrambled into a big double bed at the far end of the room,
our hostess meanwhile having disappeared. She now returned
and to our surprise likewise commenced to undress. The situa-
tion was novel. At the exact psychological moment she blew
out the light! Next morning, both gvarda and wife were up and
dressed before we woke. This tale of my methods of travel in
wilder Spain has reached the snows of the Himalayas and thence
has come back to me.

I am writing this chapter in a small room in a cottage in wild
Spain. It is mid-winter and a very wet day. The wind is howling
and the rain restricts the view to a few hundred yards. But the
roof is sound and the whitewashed walls and stone floor are dry

and I am sitting in my own arm-chair at my own table and mentally

Some Useful Articles 29

thankful that I am not—as so many of my friends kindly suggest—
under canvas.

In no sport or pastime, art or science, call it what you will,
is it more necessary to have exactly the right gear at hand and
at the right moment than in birdsnesting, more especially when
climbing is required.

To ensure a successful day’s work, or, at any rate, one which
may not be marred by the absence of some absolutely essential
article, it is necessary to keep a list of what is required. Everybody
will have his own ideas as to what to take but the following are
my own, of which I keep a copy in my notebook and also one
writ large in charcoal on the walls of my dwelling.

Worn or carried on person :—-

(1) Aneroid, watch, silk rope and whistle.
(2) Hunting belt, swivels and knives.
(3) Notebook and pencil.
(4) Field-glasses, telescope and compass.
(5) Sketchbook and small hand camera.
Carried by assistants or on pack animals :—
(1) Ropes, canvas sling, casting-line and weight.
(2) Egg-boxes, cotton wool and egg-blowing implements.
(3) Traps (when required).
(4) Rope-soled boots, guernsey and waterproof.
(5) Photographic apparatus.
(6) Fishing-creel, with food, water-bottle and drinking cups.

I am quite aware that the list is a formidable one, but long years
at the work have taught me how absolutely necessary most of the
articles are and, further, how greatly the presence of others add
to the interest of a day’s work, more especially in a wild and
unmapped country.

I shall now deal with each article separately in order that every
reader may judge for himself whether he can dispense with it or not,
citing examples how and when I have found it useful.

30 Travel and Equipment

(1) Aneroid, Watch, Silk Rope and Whistle.

The most convenient sized aneroid for ordinary work is one
with a 12 in. dial (watch size). For general use one which shows
altitudes on the external ring over a range of 5,000 feet is most
suitable since it permits of clear graduation by which differences in
level can be read to within ten feet with little trouble. Of course
for work in higher mountains an aneroid must be graduated to
show heights up to 10,000 feet at least, but thereby the difficulty
of reading off the dial is greatly increased and its value for
determining accurately relative heights proportionately diminished.

Save when I devote a day to marsh work, I invariably carry
an aneroid and, apart from the general interest of observing and
noting the heights of mountains, cliffs, and nesting-places, on occa-
sions it is of the greatest assistance in finding one’s way on a
precipitous mountain to some particular point. I will give an
example. Some twelve years ago I visited a great range of ter-
raced cliffs and noted a Vulture’s nest at a certain point. But
on setting to work to climb the cliff I soon lost my bearings amid
the numerous gullies, projecting crags and ledges which at every
turn hindered my advance or led me whither I did not wish to go.
As frequently occurs in big climbs, I was soon completely at fault
and had no idea whether I should try to go higher or lower along
the face of the cliff and eventually had to abandon the attempt.

On the occasion of my next visit I reconnoitred the cliff more
carefully and took the precaution of noting down a few points
on the same level as the nest before setting to work to climb.
On reaching one of these landmarks, a crag with some olive trees
on it, | consulted my aneroid and found I had risen about 300 ft.
I then strove to keep to the same level, but this soon proved to be
impossible for I had to ascend in some places over too ft. and
at others work downwards along steeply sloping strata, amid a

Aneroid and Silk Rope 31

jungle of palmetto and lentiscus. But the aneroid always told me
when I was on the general level of the nest and eventually I got
on a terrace which led, most unexpectedly, right into it. At the
time I had no good picture of a Griffon’s nest. It was a splendid
subject, a fine nest on a sloping shelf with steep rock rising
behind and on one side. There were heavy clouds and some rain
and a long time-exposure was wanted. With the aid of my silk
rope I secured myself to the rock and backed out cautiously till
I got sufficient distance, then pressing the camera with one hand
against the cliff, I took the photograph. The camera was one
with a fixed focus. Despite the difficulties I, or rather the camera,
got an excellent picture, so excellent indeed that I had it enlarged
to 10 in. by 12 in. and have it now hanging in my study. So much
for ‘‘the uselessness of hand cameras.” In this case the aneroid
was the prime means of my reaching the nest but without my
silk rope the photograph could never have been taken, since to
get it meant standing on the slippery rock at the extreme edge
of a sheer cliff.

In time-exposures of this nature it often becomes a serious
difficulty where to dispose one’s watch so as to keep an eye on
the second hand. My common habit has been to hang it on some
branch or lay it on a ledge, both clumsy expedients. It is only
this year that I have become the possessor of a wrist watch fitted
with a third hand to indicate seconds on the dial. What anxious
moments would not this simple contrivance have saved me in
innumerable climbs in the past !

The importance of a good whistle when engaged on cliff work
will be described later on and every sportsman knows how useful
a whistle can be in many other circumstances.

(2) Hunting Belt, Swivels and Knives.
I am a great believer in a sheath-knife which is available for
instant use in emergencies. It is for this reason we always carry

32 Travel and Equipment

one in our war balloons. But I am no believer in the popular
‘‘sportsman’s” clasp-knives containing every possible and impos-
sible weapon, apparently designed to remove sections of skin and
to excavate holes in one’s hands if one attempts to do a tough
bit of cutting. If a man wants to carry a corkscrew, small blade,
cartridge -extractor or other tools, by all means let him have
them in a small metal knife of the type popularly known as the
‘“drunkard’s companion”; I regret I do not know its official de-
scription. This, he can carry on a swivel on his belt as well as
a small sheath-knife. The latter is invaluable for all nesting pur-
poses, whether to clear away scrub on cliff, branches in a tree
or to cut a lane through high reeds in a marsh.

The springs of all swivels should be double-rivetted, else the
day comes when they slip and one’s knife is lost. I always have
several swivels on my belt, to facilitate carrying a camera, egg-box
or such bulky objects, which, when slung over the shoulder are
apt to get in the way. By clipping them on to the belt with a
double swivel this is entirely obviated.

(3) Motebook and Pencil.

No naturalist, traveller or explorer can do without a notebook.
One which will slip easily into one’s pistol (or hip) pocket is a good
size, say about 6 in. by 3 in. Pages should be prepared on which
to keep a record of photographs taken, showing subject, aperture,

speed &c.
(4) Freld-glasses, Telescope and Compass.

For bird-watching, especially birds on the wing which it is
required to trace to their nests, a good pair of ordinary binoculars
is essential. For all-round work they are infinitely superior to any
of the prism glasses since they can be used at all hours of the day
and in all lights. They must have a fair-sized field, so as to make

Field-glasses and Telescope 33
it easy readily to pick up birds on the wing and keep on them.
I personally use aluminium glasses of about five diameters and with
2-inch object-glasses, which weigh in their case 1 lb. 7 oz.

But these alone are not sufficient for the birdsnester. When
a bird has been sighted and watched to its nest or elsewhere, the
glasses are put aside and a telescope brought into use. Of course
the best sort, where bulk is of no account, is a good stalking-glass
but I have for over twenty years done all my work with a naval
‘watch officers” telescope. This is extremely powerful and,
having only one pull-out, is rapidly focussed, a great point. The
popular objection to it that it is too long to carry is all nonsense ;
my own in its leather sling case is only 18} inches in length and
weighs under 1 |b. 12 02.

In carrying field-glasses for bird-watching, the great thing is to
have them ever ready focussed so that they can be brought into
use with the least possible delay. This can be provided for by the
very simple expedient of having the leather case made long enough
to hold them when focussed ready for use. Another most useful
small addition is to have a U-shaped spring or clip fixed into the
bottom of the case, into which the glasses are pressed when returned
to it. In climbing or riding, should the case have been left un-
strapped, the risk of the glasses falling out is by this means
minimized,

It is an excellent plan to have a stud sewn on to the case as well
as a buckle, since either of these by itself is liable at times and
under rough usage to fail.

When birdsnesting in wild countries I always carry a compass,
(of course, if any wag likes to say this is because I am the inventor
of the Service Compass, he may) which I use both for general pur-
poses of travel and to fix points of importance, such as cliffs,
mountain tops, the trend of valleys, &c. Owing to the small scale
of the maps usually procurable, it is the only means at times of
locating one’s position.

34 Travel and Equipment

A compass also is most useful when engaged in any geological
or archeological researches but I will not inflict on my readers
a disquisition on these matters. Suffice it to say that many a day’s
birdsnesting, blank as regards nests found or birds seen, has brought
me to places of absorbing interest where without aheroid, compass
and (shall I venture to avow it ?), a clinometer or level, I should have
been unable to take advantage of sundry delightful opportunities
for study and research brought unexpectedly within my reach.

(5) Sketchbook and Small Hand Camera.

These will be found described at length in the next chapter.
Over and over again I have endeavoured to reduce the number
of articles I carry (and consequently the total weight) by relegating
one or both of these to the ‘second line” of my field equipment.
But as often as I have done so I have sooner or later had ample
cause for regret and have reverted to my original plan of never
being parted from them. I can recall lost opportunities of a sketch
of some glorious view or of a photograph of which the like will
hardly occur again, both ascribable to the desire to reduce one’s

load.

So much for the lighter articles, now as to the more bulky,
which are usually carried on pack-animals or by men. On arriving
at any locality where any climbing or exploring has to be done, a
redistribution of the gear is made and articles suitable for the task
immediately before one are selected and divided out among the party
to carry. Among these are usually the egg-boxes, the necessary
ropes, rope-soled boots and the second camera and spare films.

(1) Ropes, Canvas-sling, Casting-line and Weight.

These are fully dealt with in the chapters on Tree and Cliff-
climbing.

Trapping Large Birds

on
aT

(2) Ege-boxes and Ege-blowing Apparatus.

To carry eggs I use sets of boxes of tin or aluminium which
“nest.” The only egg-blowing appliances wanted in the field are
a good egg-drill and a blowpipe, the rest of the paraphernalia, pliers,
scissors, syringe &c., can be left at home. It is always best,
especially with large eggs, to get rid as much as possible of their
contents directly they are taken. Eggs thus treated, if properly
packed, will rarely be broken no matter how rough may be the
journey, whereas unblown eggs have a genius for coming to grief.

(3) Zvraps.

Most birds can be trapped on their nests without difficulty.
I have never failed when I have given time to it save only with
the Raven, which seems critically to note every detail and to see
at a glance where a trap has been concealed.

For big birds of prey the surest trap is an iron rabbit-gin with
the teeth filed down. In addition | invariably bind several thick-
nesses of folded chamois leather round the jaws and thus I have
never injured a bird I have caught. It is most necessary to watch
birds both on and off their nests, and note carefully on which side
they enter. The trap should be placed at this last point and lightly
covered with leaves, twigs &c. I invariaby attach the trap to
a strong line which I lead down to the ground and secure to a
loose branch.

Upon the bird stepping on to the nest and the trap being sprung,
it endeavours to fly off but is soon brought up by the bough at the
end of the line and after a few ineffectual flaps, loses its balance and
falls to the ground. By this means I have at various times trapped
Vultures, Eagles, Neophrons, Harriers and Kites and could have
easily trapped Eagle Owls and many other species. /2 xo single
instance have | in any way injured a bird by this method of trapping.
As a rule I have released them sooner or later.

36 Travel and Equipment

I describe the process because if it be required to obtain a bird
either alive or dead, it is by far the most merciful method to adopt.
Shooting big raptorial birds off the nest, besides frequently damag-
ing their plumage, is by no means a certainty and I can recall
several instances where an Eagle after receiving several charges of
a splendid life wasted—and I have read

shot, has gone away to die
of many like mishaps. In this class of trapping the bird is not left
to struggle for an indefinite period, for the skilful trapper, having
set his gin, retires to the shelter of some bush or rocks 300 yards
or more from the nest, whence he watches until the bird returns
and is trapped, often a matter of less than half an hour. A coat or
rug thrown over the bird much simplifies the task of securing it.

(4) Rope-soled Boots, Guernsey and Waterproof.

The value of the Spanish rope-soled boots or shoes known as
alpargatas, for cliff and tree climbing can hardly be exaggerated.
Stockinged feet are well enough but if the rocks be sharp, they
soon become bare feet and what between cuts, bruises, scratches
and the presence of thorns of all sorts, it does not take long to
get one’s feet into a very unserviceable condition, and tender or
sore feet are an element of danger when cliff-climbing.

Hence the afargatas. But the ordinary nailed shooting-boots
should only be taken off and the e/fargatas donned when the actual
cliff work has to be tackled. For rope-soled boots on muddy hill-
sides, when once they become clogged, are an abomination and, what
is worse, are extremely dangerous when the rock-climbing begins.

In all mountain work the climbers are apt to get over-heated
and often after a stiff climb it may be necessary to lay up for an
hour or more and watch the wild birds. Then a warm guernsey,
loose enough to haul on over all is invaluable. The alternations
between heat and cold, in sunshine or in shade, out of or in the

Attractions of a Wild Country 37
wind, amid mountains is a thing only learnt by bitter—very bitter—
experience.

After all, the whole science of life and of living is how to adapt
oneself to one’s environment and one among the many charms of
the wild life I have led at intervals for so many years is the know-
ledge one by degrees accumulates as to what is and what is not

QUARTERS DURING A BIRDSNESTING EXPEDITION,

essential to one’s existence. This is no place to expatiate on such
matters, for every man has his own ideas of what is and is not
essential. But there are some things to do without which spells
misery, namely, those which concern rest, such as camp-beds,
blankets (and mosquito curtains in some countries) and those in con-
nection with food. The accompanying picture shows a corner of
my temporary quarters when on a birdsnesting expedition in a wild
country.

38 Travel and Equipment

To me one of the delights of wandering about a wild country
in quest of birds is the endless series of other attractions which
from time to time draw one’s attention from the main work in
hand. For it not seldom happens that what may, to me, be merely
a side-issue is the absorbing life-study of one of my companions,
such for example as butterflies or botany. Thus it comes about
that on some days I find myself wielding a butterfly-net and
equipped with boxes and_ killing- bottles on the look-out for
specimens for my friends whilst never a day passes that one does
not come across some rare flower or plant—a never-ending joy.
Sometimes on such occasions I call to mind the words with which
I commenced this book and whether it be after a successful foray
among the birds, or some new experience amid butterflies, beetles
or reptiles, or some fresh interest in botany, geology or aught
else, I congratulate myself that, despite the cruel Fortune of War
which so abruptly closed to me the profession of arms, I was
spared at any rate to be “ reduced to birdsnesting.”

CHAPTER III.

SKETCHING AND PHOTOGRAPHY.

Superiority of sketches over photographs for general views—Value of day-light
loading hand-cameras to the climber—Difficulties of carrying heavy cameras,
plates or weighty appliances— Description of hand-cameras employed, sizes,
weights &c. Advantages of working with two cameras—Lightness and
portability the sole deciding factors—Difficulties of using a stand when
climbing—Improvising camera stands—Pen and ink sketches.

ERTAINLY one of the greatest
joys in life to the successful birds-
nester is to obtain a record of the

places he has visited and the
haunts of the wild birds he has
watched. For nearly twenty years
I never went on an expedition with-
out making sketches of the locali-
ties visited and when possible, of
the situations of the nests. My
especial joy was to reach some
Eagle’s nest and endeavour to
delineate with pencil and brush
‘“what the Eagle saw.” Of course,
I had to submit to the usual chaff

to which every man and boy from
“Martin” down has experienced in
such cases. It was suggested that my cliffs were too steep or that
no man could get at such spots. Whether this was the case or not

40 Sketching and Photography

I cannot say, I merely attempted to draw what I saw. With the
advent of photography, absurdly enough, all this was changed and
the average critic who had ridiculed a sketch was willing enough
to accept a photograph as absolutely correct. It is needless
to explain that distances and depths can be and are frequently
grossly exaggerated in photographs, whilst mountains and cliffs
are equally absurdly dwarfed. For this reason, as will be noted,
I have given very few general views in this book, simply because
the cameras I work with are not suited for such purposes. The
exception is where in a photograph of a nest at close range some
of the country immediately below comes in; here the impression
produced is at times singularly realistic.

For water-colour sketching nothing can equal for compactness
and convenience Roberson’s ‘‘Combination” sketchbook and
paint-box. The latter carries the eight necessary moist colours
and brush and the book measures over all 4} in. by 83 in.

I have never been without one (or its equivalent) for over
thirty-three years and before the present pattern appeared |
designed a make-shift one of my own. The opportunities for
sketching on such expeditions as mine are simply boundless and
in fact are only limited by the time available. Although, upon
the introduction of the daylight-loading hand-camera, I instantly
adopted it as an adjunct to my favourite pursuit, I still look back
with satisfaction on the hundreds of water-colour sketches I made
in all sorts of wild regions and remote spots of the glorious views
which lay before me. Inadequate and crude as are many of these
sketches, they give an idea no camera work can pretend to of the
heights and distances, atmosphere and colour amid which my
beloved birds live.

But the camera is of course unsurpassed for the faithful
delineation of all details. In my own particular line, although
photographs may and do fail lamentably to show the majesty of

Sketch-Book and Water-Colours AI

a great cliff or the glorious scenery viewed from it, they are the
only possible means of recording the structure of a nest or the
conformation of the rocks adjacent to it. The ideal book on birds-

nesting would be one in which the places and scenery were

A CLIMB FOR A PHOTOGRAPH.

reproduced from water-colour sketches, and the actual nests and
eggs, rocks, trees and reed-beds were shown in photograph.

It is no intention of mine to venture into a discussion as to
what is the best camera for use in connection with birdsnesting.
I shall merely describe the very simple appliances I have used
for illustrating this book. I am no photographer, for the simple

42 Sketching and Photography

reason that I have been far too busy all my life to find time to
devote to that absorbing subject. Would it were otherwise !

For work on moor or marsh there is no limit to the size and
weight of the camera and obviously in such cases all the modern
luxuries of reflex cameras, focal-plane shutters, tele-photo lenses,

PHOTOGRAPHING A NEST.

rigid stands &c. can be brought to bear. Such weighty and
cumbrous contrivances are however entirely unsuited to moun-
taineering,

Those whose experiences are limited to home birdsnesting or

cliff or big tree climbing.

to a few casual trips abroad have frequently urged me to adopt

Value of a Hand Camera 43

more perfect tools but to all such I retort that they have no idea
what systematic birdsnesting and climbing in a wild country mean.
On several occasions I have taken expert photographers with me
armed with the most expensive and elaborate cameras and in every
case they have failed to obtain results in any degree commensurate
with the extra trouble involved, for they could not bring their
cumbrous outfit to the required spot. I would go further and say
that in the class of work dealt with in this book, save in the
case of Bustards, Cranes and marsh-nesting species, over 90 per
cent. of the pictures I have taken during the last fifteen years
could never have been obtained at all save by employing the
very lightest and most portable forms of small hand-cameras.
When, therefore I read in a professional bird photographer's book
how after ten years experience he can only recall one instance
where a hand-camera would have been useful, I merely bow to
his superior knowledge and pursue my own way unmoved. For
in very truth in my line of work it is not a question between the
orthodox camera and a hand-camera, but between hand-camera
work and no work at all.

There is of course no finality in the marvellous advances in
science and every year will see better lenses and more _ perfect
appliances placed at the use of the field naturalist. But there
are distinct limits which are not set by the degree of perfection of
the camera employed but by the knowledge, energy, persistence,
skill and, above all, the nerve of the individual who employs it.
Hence, when I am told, as I often am, that no good work can be
done with a hand-camera—whilst not claiming that my work is
good—I console myself with the fact that very few of those who
lecture me could ever have reached the places I have pictured,
burdened with the more cumbersome gear they recommend.

Now as to the cameras I employ. For six years I was content

to use a simple box-camera measuring 44 in. by 5 in. by 6 in. and

44 Sketching and Photography

weighing 1 Ib. 7 oz. or in its solid leather case, 2 Ib. 12 0z., known
at first as the Blair ‘ Bulls’-eye” and later as the Kodak ‘“ Bull’s-

NEST OF GRIFFON VULTURE ON OPEN LEDGE.
A guick exposure.

eye’ taking cartridge films of 12 exposures giving pictures of
34 in. by 34 in. With this I took the photographs which illustrate
Colonel Irby’s “Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar.” Owing to

Cameras Employed 45

hard knocks, falls &c., I expended three or four of these during
that period. But besides being a very cheap article, about 30s.,
it was ill-suited to the work in hand, since its fixed focus of 9 ft.
nominally, but 7 ft. in practice, made it unsuitable for using at very
short distances when photographing nests, especially if in trees or
on cliffs.

My next advance was to a Kodak folding pocket-camera, No. 3,
taking film cartridges and giving quarter-plate pictures 3} in. by
41 in. This focused from infinity down to 6 ft., a slight improve-
ment but not enough.

I then procured another similar Kodak and, by removing the
back and focusing on a piece of ground glass, I found by experiment
that it could be used at 5, 4, and 3 ft. distance. Then by having
two small magnifiers made, one for 2 ft. and one for 1 ft. 6 in.
to fit over the lens, I was able to work down to these close ranges.

The magnifiers I carried in the flap of the camera-case, fitted
to small sockets. by bayonet-grips whence they could be easily
extracted when required. On several occasions owing to the
difficult situations in which I was placed I have only had one hand
to work with, and it became necessary to hold the camera by the
strap in my teeth whilst I fitted a magnifier. [I commend the
consideration of this necessary but awkward evolution to those who
are perturbed because I decline to carry complicated cameras.
It was with this camera that I obtained the majority of the pictures
which appear in this book. It weighs 1 Ib. 9 oz. and in its solid
leather case with magnifiers 2 lb. 7 oz.

The camera I now employ is a Kodak No. 3 fitted with a

Goerz lens and a maximum aperture of / 6°8 with a shutter with

speeds from 1 second to ;',

second (nominally) and which focuses
down to 2 ft. 6 in. Of course it is useless for birds on the wing
but I am content to forego this rather than carry a more delicate

camera which might fail me at the supreme moment, after an

46 Sketching and Photography

adventurous climb. This camera weighs 1 lb. 14 ©z. or in its
case 2 |b. 12 02.

For six years I used the ‘“ Bull’s-eye” only, then for six years I
carried both it and Kodak No. 3 with magnifiers, using the first
for “snap-shots” and the second for more careful work. I now
carry the Kodak No. 3 and the improved pattern Kodak with Goerz
lens. The object in carrying two cameras is of course primarily to
ensure that if one fails, there is another to fall back upon. But

A VULTURE’S NEST IN DEEP SHADOW.

I also like having one so that, when opportunity arises, some idea
of the size of a nest and its position and surroundings may be
obtained by one of my friends photographing me at a nest.

As will be seen, this has very seldom been possible; whereas,
in instances when it has been, there has been rarely anybody
available to work the second camera. This is unfortunate, since it
would have greatly added to the interest of some of the pictures, had
it been possible to introduce a figure or two. Unfortunately also

Pen and Ink Sketches 47

most of the nests depicted were in places of which it was impossible
to get a general view, since they were out of sight of everybody
save the man on the spot.

For photographing nests on the ground or in marshes a camera
stand is often useful. Here again I carry the very lightest possible
pattern and look to its rigidity of construction to minimize the
vibration caused at times by the wind. Very seldom is a stand of
any use in cliff work. In such places one has to be extemporized
out of some ledge or shelf of rock and the camera placed upon it and,
if necessary, wedged up in the required positions by small fragments
of rock. Where no horizontal ledge can be utililized the camera
must be held rigidly with one side pressed firmly against some
vertical crag. A large proportion of the photographs given are the
result of long time-exposures in deep shadow on cliffs and often in
gloomy caverns and in no case was I ever able to use a stand, but
had to extemporize one as described.

In reproducing the photographs for this book, in four cases only
has it been thought desirable to retouch a negative. The remainder
are as in their original state.

The pen and ink sketches are, with some few exceptions, facsimile
copies of the water-colour drawings made by me on the spot during
the last thirty-three years.

CHARRE RIV:
ON CLIMBING IN GENERAL.

First bird studies at Gibraltar—Climbing the Rock—The bogey of vertigo
—Its cure—To the masthead in H.M.S. Simoom—Escape from Bluejackets—
Climb round “the back of the Rock ’’—A very awkward question: ‘‘ Chucking
out ballast”—Exploration of St. Michael's Cave, ‘Clincher Hole ’’—Descent
into Europa Ravine Caverns—Subsequent Cave explorers and climbers and their
fate—The ‘ Unclimbable”’ fence.

HAVE already briefly described how
when I first found myself at Gib-
raltar in 1874 I devoted most of my
time to the study of the birds of the
country. During the first winter
I was on the Rock I set to work
to collect all the species new to me,
which I skinned and_ preserved.
Also I occupied the tedious hours

when ‘“‘on guard” (a recurring event

at that date of every fifth or sixth
day), in making water-colour draw-

ings of birds from specimens ob-
tained, endeavouring always to depict them in the attitudes in which
I had watched them when alive. Of course with the return of
spring I was ever on the look-out for nests and climbing in quest of
them. And this went on during successive winters and springs on
the Rock. But I did not restrict my climbing to the nesting season

To the Masthead, H.M.S. “Simoom” 49

alone. There is little enough to be done at Gibraltar during the
summer months, and when nests failed I used to devote my energies
to scrambling about the cliffs, with an eye to marking down some
possible nesting-place for the succeeding year. Of course such
constant practice was invaluable. Several of these climbs had
their risks. I can recall one up by the back of the Rock to Middle
Hill Battery as it was then styled. My motive that time was not
entirely birdsnesting. I had read how during the siege of 1706
a traitorous goatherd had conducted a party of 500 intrepid
Spaniards under a certain Colonel Figueroa up this cliff, and
how they were attacked by the British soldiers at Middle Hill and
shot down, the survivors (?) being thrown over the cliff, a fall of
1,000 ft. or so. (There were no “ hand-uppers” apparently in those
days.) I became possessed with a desire to see for myself what
sort of a path the gallant attackers had taken, but from what
I then saw I am convinced that, subsequent to the ‘“ regrettable
incident,” the cliff must have been scarped and rendered more
difficult.

Like all beginners at climbing, I had always before me the bogey
of vertigo, or some such malady which I had been told induced
climbers, when they attained to any great height to cast them-
selves down from it forthwith. Hence at first I was always a
little nervous at looking down when in very steep and precipitous
places. Of course it was very silly and I adopted a drastic
and most effectual remedy which removed such follies from one’s
brain once and for all.

This was going aloft at sea—-there were masts and sails in
those days—and between various voyages in our old troopships and
an occasional trip in a warship I soon acquired the necessary degree
of confidence. I remember that I first went to the main-truck
of a ship in the venerable old Szmoom. I had taken the usual
orthodox precaution to “square” the captain of the top to avoid

50 On Climbing in General

the ignominy of being lashed up and made to pay my footing in
public and hied me aloft with a light heart. As I topped the
futtock-shrouds I came on a couple of Bluejackets sitting in the
maintop engaged in one of those inscrutable jobs in which a marling-
spike figures largely and fully reckoning on the integrity of my
chum the captain of the same top, I crawled up the topmast
rigging and Jacob’s ladder and eventually struggled up from the jack
to the truck. It was whilst descending that on reaching the jack
I suddenly became aware that I was being watched by all hands
below on the crowded forecastle where the soldiers, seasick and
otherwise, were massed, presenting a sea of faces. Glancing
immediately below me (I had avoided doing so before by reason
of the old tale of vertigo), I spied the Bluejackets just below
the topmast crosstrees one on each side of the topmast shrouds
obviously waiting to catch me! I felt that explanation might fail
and would in any case be derogatory, so I looked round for a means
of escape and, spying a topgallant backstay, swung myself on to
it and descended to the deck much faster than I liked or intended,
landing safely amid the cheers of the soldiers.

But my glory was dearly purchased. In those days (and per-
haps now) the sailorman had a hideous habit of ‘dressing ” all the
standing rigging with an evil compound of grease and Stock-
holm tar as a preservative. In my aerial descent I had gripped
the backstay tightly with one leg hitched round it. Needless to
explain that my immaculate and much be-laced and_ be-braided
Rifleman’s patrol-jacket was smeared from chest to hip with the
black grease as were my overalls. But I never advertised my mis-
fortune and soothed myself with the congratulations I received
especially from the faithless captain of the top.

To return to the Rock. During my stay there I made various
attempts to climb up from the sandy slope above Catalan Bay to
the well-known nest of Bonelli’s Eagle, which has afforded an
object of interest to so many visitors to the Signal Station.

A Lesson from the Gun Room 51

In this I was unsuccessful. Curiously enough the climb, which
is spoken of even now, was one which, at the time, neither I nor
my companions considered of any importance. I had long cast
covetous eyes on the Osprey’s nest at the back of the Rock. It
was in a bad situation and inaccessible save with a rope. Accord-
ingly one day, in defiance of all Garrison Orders prohibiting the
molestation of wild birds on the Rock, and accompanied by a naval
officer and another soldier, I proceeded to Catalan Bay. Here we
lunched with the Detachment officer and afterwards started on our
expedition. After a most fatiguing struggle across the great slopes
of shifting sand we reached the first serious obstacle, a low cliff.
Skirmishing on ahead, I picked out a practicable line and we set
to work to sidle along the narrow terraces, at times not very high
up and at others several hundreds of feet above the sea. Arrived
above the Osprey’s nest, we found a nasty sloping terrace of loose
stones which made it dangerous for two men to lower a third, also
our rope was totally inadequate for such a purpose. My com-
panions refused to lower me over, and I am not ashamed to say
I inwardly rejoiced, for it would have been perfectly foolhardy to
attempt it in the circumstances.

Many years afterwards, I revisited the same spot but with
proper appliances and, despite all orders to the contrary, took the
eggs! That very night I chanced to be dining at the table of
the Admiral and among the guests was the Governor and by ill-
luck the conversation turned upon the Osprey’s nest on the Rock.
Somebody remarked that no man could get at it and I was
suddenly appealed to across the table as a known climber and
expert. To make things worse, some of my guilty accomplices
were present and eyed me anxiously. Mercifully the question put
to me was whether I thought it was possible for anybody to
take the Osprey’s eggs? All eyes were turned on me, as with
a supreme effort, begot of the perils of my position and with the

52 On Climbing in General

thought of those two lovely eggs still unblown locked up in my
dressing-case, I replied ‘No, Sir, I feel sure that anybody who
tries to take them will fail.” I attribute my good fortune in
thus extricating myself and my confederates from what might have
been a most unpleasant position entirely to a prolonged study of
how British Midshipmen in defence of themselves and their privi-
leges parry inconvenient questions on the part of the Commander.

But to return to our climb. When it was voted that the projected
raid was not good enough, somebody suggested ‘‘ Why go back ?
Let’s go on!” The very originality of the idea was prepossessing.
For if one thing was more certain than another in the traditions
of the old Rock, it was that owing to the difficulties and obstacles
due to natural causes, supplemented by the dilettante hand of the
Royal Engineer, nobody could climb round the back of the Rock.
At this period, no tradition, let alone record, existed of its having
been accomplished and within the preceding few years several
attempts had been made and had incontinently failed. An especially
gruesome one was fresh in all our memories. Two Bluejackets
who had landed from a warship in harbour, with the usual crowd
of ‘liberty men,” had broken their leave and not returned. Some
days later one was retrieved by the picket after a protracted
jollification on shore. His comrade was still however absent and
when questioned-as to his whereabouts, he could only remember
that they had started together to climb around the Rock, but that,
not liking the job, he had turned back and gone in for a little
amusement in the town. The clue thus given was followed up
and the unfortunate missing sailor was found lying on a terrace
with some bones broken. Here he had been for some days,
needless to say he did not survive his injuries. Such was the
cheering precedent for our climb.

After leaving the Osprey’s terrace, I struck well up the
cliff and hitting on a good ledge worked along it very steadily

Round the back of Gibraltar Rock

nN
Ds

my companions following. After a time I fancied I hearda
cry and glancing behind me found I was alone! It was an
anxious moment, and all sorts of horrors obtruded themselves

into my imagination. Carefully retracing my steps, on rounding

THE BACK OF THE ROCK.

a rock I suddenly came upon the sailor lying at full length on
an extremely narrow ledge, violently sick! The soldier who
brought up the rear was naturally blocked in his advance and
he it was whose shout I had heard. In reply to my anxious
enquiries, the sick man cheerfully replied that he was “ only

54 On Climbing in General

chucking out ballast”! To this day I have never been able to
make up my mind whether it was the hot sun, the giddy
height or the heavy luncheon which had so alarming an effect
on him.

He was soon in commission again and resumed his station
and we went on. At places it became necessary to change from
one terrace to another, perhaps 20 to 25 ft. below. This we
effected by means of our rope, the last man coming down on
the two parts of the rope hitched around some crag or palmetto
bush, after which we overhauled it and proceeded on our way.
It was very exciting work especially when it became a moral
certainty that by no possible means could we retrace our steps!
Eventually we reached the terrace above the Monkeys’ Cave,
near the Governor's Cottage, whence we soon made our escape
and were once again treading the habitable portion of the Rock.

Like all such adventures, the excitement and fun were due to
the delightful possibilities of our getting into an impossible place,
but fortune favoured us.

Another totally distinct class of climbing at this time was the
exploration of some of the immense limestone caverns with which
the Rock is in places honeycombed. This afforded great scope
for rope-work and climbing. The first we tackled was the famous
St. Michael’s Cave, which according to tradition communicated
with Africa below the Straits and formed the ‘“ Channel Tunnel”
for the ‘Rock monkeys” (Barbary apes). My companion in
this was Lieutenant Alfred Carpenter, R.N. (now Captain retired).
With the aid of some Bluejackets armed with ropes and a good
supply of boat’s lead-lines we reached the bottom or rather
bottoms of the cave coming to pools of clear fresh water in
every case. The last 200 ft. of the descent was down a chimney-
like fissure in the limestone. At one point this narrowed so
much that only the smallest of the party could get down it.

To the Bottom of St. Michael's Cave 5

Carpenter and myself and one other got through. The Blue-
jackets named it ‘Clincher Hole.” It is interesting to record
that upon reaching the bottom we found we were by no means
the first who had done so, for on the limestone roof above us
were spaces blackened by candle-soot on which were scratched
the names of officers and dates, some going back to Crimean
days! In the absolute stillness and dryness of these depths
_these old records seemed as fresh as the day they had been
‘scratched with the broken stalactites, which lay about us on the
floor. My companion who was a scientific officer in the Hydro-
graphic Department calculated by means of his lead-lines the total
depth of the cavern from entrance to the pools of water to be
500 ft. or roughly 500 ft. above sea-level. The air was quite
fresh and the only danger lay in the risk of our return passage
being blocked by sliding débris from above.

Another famous cave I explored, with a party of the 71st
Highland Light Infantry was the one in the Europa Ravines
below the Chiet Justice's House, known as Glenrocky., This
cavern is the one where the reputed skeleton of prehistoric
man was discovered. It is a marvellous place, and, being the
light man of the party as well as the pioneer, I went in a bowline

through the hole in the “ceiling” and gained “the lowest storey ”
out of the three series of caverns we explored.

At this time my brother officers with one exception did
not take at all kindly either to climbing or exploration, but I was
never at a loss to obtain good recruits from the Navy or 7Ist
Highland Light Infantry.

In the spring of 1880 I left the Rock for our Depot at
Winchester. Not long after, I heard how the fashion | had set
had found imitators among those I had left behind in my Battalion.
One party elected to explore St. Michael’s Cave with almost
tragic consequences. For a peculiarly long subaltern of Rifles

56 On Climbing in General

succeeded in becoming jambed in ‘Clincher Hole.” In his case, it
was not owing to extra width of shoulder or depth of chest as in
that of the British bluejackets who had been unable to pass
through it, and I imagine his sticking was more of the nature of
a fish-bone across the gullet type. Anyway he became fixed, to
the consternation of those below him who thus saw their retreat
cut off. The tale goes that at one time it was under considera-
tion to sacrifice him for the good of the majority and remove
him piecemeal. Happily, he was eventually dragged out.

Equally bad luck attended another party of my _ brother
subalterns who with more pluck than knowledge and less skill
than either gallantly attempted a climb up the back of the
Rock, with disastrous results, for they finally got to the spot
which somehow is always found by unskilled climbers, where they
could not go on and dared not go back! Luckily their plight
was noticed from the Signal Station and the alarm was given.
After the inevitable report to the Town Major and his myr-
midons, the services of the Royal Artillery and Engineers were
invoked, ropes were procured and the luckless youths extricated
from their predicament. It was after this that the Governor rose
in his wrath and a Garrison Order was issued forbidding officers
to climb the Rock.

But all this happened long ago. When in a sudden access
of hysteric caution following on years of ‘“‘go as you please”’
all the upper portion of the Rock was enclosed by a high spiked
iron paling, some unimaginative official had the fatuity to style
it officially ““The Unclimbable Fence,” and numerous Orders
were drafted with respect to it in which it was thus described.
It is hard to imagine a more direct challenge to a man addicted
to climbing. At this psychological moment I chanced to land at
Gibraltar on leave from England. I climbed that fence, not for
pleasure or for vanity, but as a matter of duty to the confraternity

Climbing the Unclimbable Fence 57

of birdsnesters. My ‘‘crime” was never taken judicial notice of,
and here I was happier than the luckless private soldier, who not
long since committed the same offence and according to report
was charged with ‘“ Neglecting to obey Fortress Orders, in that
he, at Gibraltar, on April 1, 1t90—, contrary to the Fortress
Order directing all persons to abstain from doing so—climdbed the

Onclimbable Fence!”

GOAR LE Rave
TREE CLIMBING.

A classic example—Tom Brown’s sound advice—The four requisites for a
good tree climber—Swarming up branchless trees—Working along spread-
ing, horizontal or pendent boughs—A famous Raven’s tree—An awkward
climb—The “S” and its difficulties—Reach the nest—Trees too large to
swarm up—Value of pendent boughs in some cases—Tree climbing with
ropes—Use of light casting-line and lead—How to get a rope over a
high bough—Ascending with the aid of a rope—Arrival at branches—
Transition from rope work to climbing—Extra large trees—Climbing by

successive stages with rope—Climbing

irons—A nasty accident—Irons and rope
an ideal plan—Dress for tree climbing

—Uses of light line and fishing creel.

HE art of tree climbing, for art it is,
exists in an embryonic form in most
schoolboys. Most lads however
discontinue the practice just at the
age when they are developing
strength and skill enough to be-
come fair climbers. No better ad-
vice for the youthful climber can.
be found than in ‘‘Tom Brown's
School Days” and the famous story
of the Kestrel’s nest in the tall fir
in Caldecott’s spinney has given
inspiration to many a lad, whilst all
through my life, whenever I have
attained the “decisive point” in a

big tree and felt sure of the nest, I

Tom Brown's Sound Advice 59

have mentally ejaculated with Scud East “All up with the old
Magpie now.” Tom's precept, “You can’t hurt if you get a
good hand-hold. Try every branch with a good pull before
you trust it and then up you go!” is unequalled in our lan-
guage. To this I would add “Always get a hand-hold and
foot-hold as near as possible to the trunk or branch you may be
on.” By keeping these two rules in mind I have come with safety
out of many hundreds of awkward and dangerous trees. To
become a bold and successful tree climber does not require great
bodily strength, else | should have never climbed at all, nor does
it require powerful muscles. What is wanted is quickness, agility,
ready resource and good nerve. The first three enable a man to
work his way up many a tree which would defeat the mere
gymnast whereas the last prevents him from being deterred by
possible dangers, and, above all, when he does get into trouble
helps him out of it.

When trees are not too large to swarm up or have branches
enough to help the climber on his way, no accessories in the way
of ropes or irons are wanted and I propose to deal with this, the
normal sort of tree climbing, first. The main obstacle to all tree
climbing is the difficulty of surmounting the portion of the tree
without branches. This exists in its most trying form in big fir
trees and larches and here the gymnast is at an advantage. For
many years I used to swarm up lofty fir trees after Ravens’ or
Kites’ or Carrion Crows’ nests, many of them branchless for 30 to
40 ft. The labour however is excessive and if many trees of
such a type have to be visited in one day, it is far better to have
recourse to ropes, of which more hereafter.

When you have arrived among the branches, the nature of the
tree must be kept in mind. Elms are brittle, oaks just the reverse.
In fir trees rotten branches should be removed during the ascent ;
not uncommonly they are rotten at the point of junction with the

60 Tree Climbing

bole and give way suddenly. A good rule is never to trust a
branch in a fir unless some green spines are to be seen growing on
some portion of it. Where nests are placed away from the main
trunk, some care is necessary. In case of most deciduous trees,
such as oak, elm or beech, the branches where nests are usually
placed rarely slope more than 45 degrees or so. In working up
such places a very secure hand-hold is necessary as it may easily
happen that the climber slips round under the bough. If this
occurs, it is generally best to continue the climb along the under-
side until some branches are reached which make the process of
righting oneself easy enough. In fir trees, on the other hand, a
nest is often placed on a bough of which the slope is anything
between 45 degrees and the horizontal. The former requires
care and is best tackled by swarming along it; when a branch is
horizontal, or nearly so, provided it is big enough, it may be better
to sit astride and work out along it, as on a vaulting horse. Where
a bough actually dips downwards, always turn round and face the
tree and slip down it.

The preceding are all taken from examples of climbs I have
made. Quite the worst and most alarming of my climbs of this
description was after a Raven’s nest. This was in a tall fir tree
which was popularly supposed to be unclimbable, close to the
Duke of Kent’s Farm near Gibraltar.

One evening at our Mess the conversation turned as to whether
it was possible to get at this nest and in the course of it, it tran-
spired that two subalterns had on that very day attempted it and
had failed. One of them was an exceptionally powerful man.
Both were given to scientific observation and they measured the
height of the tree by means of its shadow as being 72 ft. Asa
proof of the impracticable nature of this particular tree they
described how two Spanish herds who had joined them had alike
been defeated in the attempt to scale it. Later on that same

An ‘“Unclimbable” Fir Tree 61

night, my particular birdsnesting ally and companion during my
first five years in Spain, Harry James Fergusson, came to my
quarters and propounded a scheme for taking the nest on the
following day. I demurred, as [I had not properly watched the
birds and was in consequence uncertain whether the nest contained
eggs, and also because my part of the proposed entertainment was
to climb the tree whereas his was to get the inevitable “rise”
out of the others by subsequently in the event of my succeeding,
pretending that we had failed. He was however a wilful man,
and met all my objections by assurances that he knew I could do
itsif only I tried.

So next morning saw us galloping out along the beach to the
a dead fir about

“First River” and onward. Arrived at the tree
75 ft. high—I took careful stock of it and was not at all reassured.
For 20 ft. it was just possible to swarm the trunk, after which it
bifurcated and was easy enough, the portion in which the nest was
placed inclining outwards at an angle of 45 degrees for 10 or 12 ft.,
becoming again vertical for another 10 ft. So far, so good, it was
awkward, but obviously possible. But now came the trouble, for
in the course of the next 20 ft. the tree-stem emulated a cork-screw
in form and described a splayed and twisted “S” before once again
returning to the vertical below the lowest branch over 60 ft. from
the ground. The sketch at the commencement of this chapter is
from one drawn at the time of our visit, and gives a better idea of
the awkwardness of the situation than does my description. It was
obviously fairly simple to swarm up the tail of the § but at the
lower curve of it the trunk bulged ere it took the backward turn.
The shape of the tree was however by no means the greatest
obstacle to reaching the nest, for the fir tree, as I saw at a glance,
was clad with the well-known flaking bark peculiar to its species
which made it extremely slippery if not dangerous. I have a
theory of my own that in all big fir trees the higher one ascends,

62 Tree Climbing

the more slippery do the branches become, at any rate they always
feel so. Possibly this may be due to these upper branches being
more exposed to the heat of the sun’s rays than are the lower ones.
Now to the climb. I managed to tackle the first 10 ft. or so by
mounting on Fergusson’s broad shoulders, after which the trunk
became more climbable. It was a stiff and slippery swarm, but
all went well until I reached the lower bend of the §. At this
point, as I was cautiously hauling myself over the hump and round
the “corkscrew” portion, the treacherous bark slid in my grasp and
so did I, swinging round under the bough. I held on like grim
death, with fingers interlaced and legs twisted around it. It was
horribly uncomfortable thus hanging back downwards with 50 ft.
clear to the ground below and for a moment I was puzzled what
to do next short of sliding back ignominiously. It was clearly
impossible to regain the upper side of the slippery trunk so I made
the best of a bad job and swarmed up along the lower side and was
not a little relieved when I found myself at a vertical portion once
again where I could regain my seat, so to speak, on the slanting
part immediately below it. A few feet more and I gained the
friendly spreading boughs near the nest. The latter contained
five young Ravens. I am not ashamed to say that I did not
embark on the return journey till I felt I had thoroughly recovered
from my misadventure As so often happens, the return proved to
be comparatively easy. It is superfluous to go into details of how
at dinner that evening, our brother officers were cautiously led on
to understand that we had found the tree to be too much for us
and how, at the psychological moment, they were permitted by my
aggravating comrade to become aware of the truth. But after all
such victories are too dearly purchased and it took me some time
before I felt anxious to tackle awkward fir trees. Of one thing I am
well assured, namely that the Ravens in selecting this particular
tree were perfectly aware of the difficulties it presented to the

Use of a Pendent Bough 63

climber. For there were scores of other trees all round it some
higher and with fewer branches and apparently more formidable
but as regards security from attack none of them could be compared
to the one the Ravens had built in.

There are very few large trees which cannot be climbed with

CLIMBING A BIG SPANISH OAK TREE BY THE AID OF A PENDENT BOUGH.

greater ease and rapidity with the aid of ropes than without. Now
and again some of the largest trees, which are unscalable without
the aid of some artificial means of reaching the lower branches can
be successfully tackled by ascending from the extreme end of some
pendent bough which enables the climber to effect a lodgment well
up in the tree, likely enough in some part whence a further ascent
is an easy matter.

64 Tree Climbing

I have visited several nests in very lofty trees by this means ;
usually the only trouble is at the start but if the branch bears the
strain then it may be reckoned on as a safe one throughout, and it
naturally gets stronger every foot one swarms up it. A branch of
this sort is climbed in a similar fashion to a rope but is, as a rule,
easier.

When no such accidental advantage can be utilized, recourse
must be had to ropes. For tree-climbing nothing can equal rd in.
manila rope. It is pliable and ‘‘renders” well over a bough and
its lightness enables it to be cast upward and over a bough at some
height above the ground. One hundred feet of manila will do for
most trees as it will serve to sway up a climber 45 ft., allowing
10 ft. spare for the bowline and the portion in the hands of the
assistants.

But a 14-inch rope cannot be cast over a branch 45 ft. overhead
or in fact at anything approaching that height. For this purpose
a light line is wanted, a deep-sea fishing-line of the pattern known
in our Navy as a mackerel-line is as good as any. To the end of
this should be attached a leaden weight of suitable size and form.
After many experiments I have found a disc measuring about
23 in. in diameter and with an axis of } in. bevelled off to 4 in.
round the circumference by far the most suitable for “shying.”
Its weight is 18 oz. A picture of this appears at the end of
this chapter.

By coiling the line neatly in the left hand, with a few spare
coils on the ground beside one, this leaden disc can be thrown up
a considerable height. When it has been cast over the bough
required, the line is jerked until the weight overhauls the line and
runs down, The weight is then removed, and the line made fast to
the 13 inch rope by means of a rolling-bend or a clove-hitch about
a foot or so from its end, great care being taken to make a half
hitch close to the point of the rope.

Casting Line and Rope 65

This is very important, else when hauling up the line the rope
may get caught, especially as it passes over the bough. The rope
having been overhauled, the climber gets into a bowline (or a bow-
line-on-a-bight) or if the tree be very big and awkward, into a

canvas sling, and is hauled up.
Cc

¥ Re ing ‘
OG itdliara Ve

ay"

CLIMBING A TALL FIR TREE WITH THE AID OF A ROPE.

During the ascent he should do all he can to ‘“lighten-up ” his
weight. As soon as the tree becomes small enough for him to
encircle even a portion of it with his arms, he must do so and the

66 Tree Climbing

hauling-up party should watch him and second every movement he
makes by a judicious pull. It is wonderful how easily and rapidly
a skilful climber can thus ascend a tree.

I attach great importance to the climber thus seconding the
efforts of the assistants, for by doing so he reduces the friction of
the rope over the bough above and thereby minimizes any risks of
a mishap. For by adopting such means not only does ‘he get
a good hold of the tree, should the rope part, but by reducing the
friction and consequent strain, the rope is not nearly so highly tried.
In the preceding picture a 12-stone man is being run up a fir tree
by three others weighing between them some 38 st.

The fir tree in this instance was about 60 ft. high and the
lowest sound bough over which the rope was hove was 35 ft.
from the ground. A much weathered and somewhat rotten stump
on the opposite side of the tree to the climber affords a welcome
rest to a man climbing without a rope, as I can speak from
experience, having ascended it in 1878 and in 1879. This photo-
graph was taken in 1903.

It requires little science or knowledge of the strains on ropes
to understand that if the 12-stone man elected to hang like a sack
of beef and left the 38-stone weight to haul on him with all their
united strength, a rope which fouled up above might break.

When the climber arrives at the bough, he must get a secure
hand-hold and those below must quickly ease up rope enough (say
2 or 3 ft.) to enable him to swing himself on to the branch and
come to a rest.

At this period of the struggle, it is advisable for all hands to
take a rest. I invariably do so and repeat to myself the formula,
‘All up with the old Magpie now,” or words to that effect.

Sometimes the transition from rope work to climbing involves
some difficulties and risk, since the bough may itself be too big
to afford a secure hand-hold. Hence it is most desirable, when

Ascending very Big Trees 67

possible, to get the rope over some bough above the lowest one, by
which means a man can be hoisted right on to the lowest. If this
cannot be done, the party below must handle the rope gently at
the instant the climber mounts on to the top of the bough, for any
carelessness at this juncture might result in him being pulled over
the bough and out of the tree! When a footing among the branches
has been secured, the bowline (or sling) should be removed and
made fast to a bough and the ascent continued in the ordinary
way. But in a big tree, especially a huge oak or cork tree, it may
happen that the final victory is by no means assured when the
first bough is reached. For between it and the next one above
there may be many feet of thick trunk, utterly unscalable. Now
comes the opportunity for the man who is accustomed to work
at heights and who, further, is skilful in the handling of ropes.
For, after hauling up and making a coil of what he may require,
he makes a cast with the rope over the next bough above and
either swarms up with the aid of the hand-hold thus afforded, by
hoiding the two pieces of the rope, or, in more awkward situations,
drops the fall of the rope to his comrades below and makes himself
fast to the hoist and repeats the operations already described.
Sometimes it may be necessary to do this several times before the
tree diminishes in size enough for the climber to proceed by
ordinary methods. The uninitiated may imagine that such a process
requires an endless amount of rope but this is not so. Assume for
example that the climber has been hoisted to a convenient bough
40 ft. up. This requires about go ft. out of the hundred available.
He now sees that until he has ascended another 30 ft., he cannot
do without a rope and that half-way up, say 15 ft. above him, there
is another good bough. To reach this next stage but 8o ft. is
required and for the second under 95 ft. (always allowing 10 ft.
spare as described). Of course in descending it would be quicker
were he to be provided with 150 ft. and thus come down in one

68 Tree Climbing

movement, but in practice the operation of stopping when half-way
down and hauling up the rope and dropping it over an adjacent
bough involves but little trouble. I have met with occasions when
it was more convenient to throw the line and lead weight over
a bough than the rope itself. When this is done, the same process
is repeated as at the first start and the rope is subsequently hauled
up. Frequently in emergencies a small length of rope used as
a life-line is of great assistance and for this I usually carry 20 ft.
of silk rope.

Very likely some may have been surprised that I have hitherto
made no mention of climbing irons. The reason is because I have
for many years strongly discountenanced their use, save as an
adjunct to climbing with a rope. I used them myself until 1876.
It was then that I first met with Lord Lilford and it was owing
to him that I gave them up. For he described to me how he knew
of an unfortunate man who, having climbed a tall tree with the
aid of irons, lost his hand-hold and fell backwards. His life was
saved by the cause of his disaster, for one iron was so deeply set
in that it held. But he hung head downwards with his weight
on his dislocated ankle! To assist him by climbing to him was
impossible. Fortunately the accident occurred in a civilized country
where it was possible to fetch a ladder and by this means he
was rescued.

At the time of my meeting with Lord Lilford I was constantly
riding alone into wild spots in Spain, picketing my horse and
climbing big trees. After hearing the story I came to the con-
clusion that it was tempting Providence to continue to use irons
in a country where, if one came to grief, the chances were against
being found and where, moreover, ladders did not exist.

For over twenty years subsequently I would have nothing to
do with them; meanwhile, in 1882 I had taken to using ropes in
trees, but it was not till 1898 that I once again became a

Use of Climbing Irons 69

possessor of a pair of climbing irons. I was at this time at the
Royal Military College, Sandhurst and I found them of very great
assistance in climbing the large fir trees, especially with the aid of
arope. In fact, a combination of ropes and climbing irons reduces
the risk and labour of fir-tree climbs to a minimum. They can be
used with great advantage in climbing medium trees without having
recourse to a rope but the climber should be ever watchful to keep
a good hold of the tree. I have seen careless climbers injure
themselves by striking the inside of one leg with the spiked iron
strapped on the other and at all times they are aids which should
be used with extreme care. When scrambling high up among
boughs, they are a source of danger and should be removed.

So much for the various ways of tree-climbing. Now as to the
dress. Gabardine knickerbocker-breeches and gaiters or stockings
are as good as anything and a waistcoat with close-fitting light
gabardine sleeves is excellent since they protect the arms from cuts
and scratches when swarming; they are particularly useful in big
fir-trees. How often have I reduced the sleeves of a flannel shirt
to shreds and regained ¢erva firma with my arms smarting with
abrasions and scratches filled with sharp particles of bark, gum and
turpentine !

A close-fitting fisherman’s guernsey is a good climbing rig both
for trees and rocks but has the objection to a photographer that
it is difficult, if not impossible to get at one’s waistcoat pockets.
Boots should never be worn in big tree work unless with rope-soles ;
stockinged feet are usually best.

An essential part of the tree-climber’s equipment is a strong
line wherewith to communicate with the party below. For this
purpose I usually take up with me my line and lead. The former
is wound on a wooden reel made to fit in one’s hip pocket where
it can be stowed without getting in the way. There are very few
occasions when its services are not in request, whether it be to

70 Tree Climbing

lower down eggs or young birds or to haul up a camera or a bird-
trap. A stout wickerwork fishing creel makes an excellent general
receptacle on all such occasions and is less likely to get caught
up in the process of hauling up or lowering than is a bag or
sack, besides being more easily packed and affording some protec-
tion to fragile articles such as eggs in boxes or photographic

apparatus.

PTT RIT

A CLEAR

DROP.

Drawn by Ida Verner from photographs.
z J 8

“NI
—

CHARTER VI.
CLIFF CLIMBING.

Alpine climbing—Birdsnesting and mountaineering—Use of ropes—A technical
knowledge necessary—Uses of a “‘life-line’’—Dislike of mountaineers to
rope work—Risks of working a rope single-handed—Various uses of ropes—
Crossing a gully —Life-line and ‘“‘traveller’-—A naval development—Popular
ideas of using ropes on cliffs—Carrying ropes in wild countries—Alpine Club
ropes, weights, &c. — Bowline-on-a-bight — Canvas sling — Carrying long
ropes—The lowering party—Numbers required—Good discipline essential—
Duties of the “captain” — Posting a lowering party—Use of whistle—
A simple code of signals—General precautions—Importance of knotting and
‘seizing ’’—A slippery hitch—Awkward situation—Tyrolean silk rope—Its
manifold uses.

HE world-wide notoriety given to all
matters connected with Alpine ascents
has made many people imagine that

k AN climbing is a pastime exclusively en-

\ ‘A,
v4
Ni joyed by those who visit Switzer-
land or similar mountainous countries.
In fact that to be a mountaineer it Is
essential to form one of the band,
who with the aid of guides and all
modern appliances annually pene
trate the eternal snows and attain the
summits of remote mountain peaks.
That such performances have great
charm for many is undeniable and
I look with the greatest admiration
and respect on some of the genuine

72 Cliff Climbing

Alpinists who have repeatedly given proofs of their nerve and
endurance in their tremendous struggles with the forces of Nature.
Unluckily the genuine mountaineer is aped by a host of paltry
followers who have reduced the science of climbing to a point
at times narrowly verging on the ridiculous. Many of the so-called
climbers are no climbers at all, and it shows their belief in them-
selves and their capabilities that they will submit cheerfully to be
tied together like strings of donkeys and dragged, hustled and
pushed through snow or across ice for the mere satisfaction of
saying that they have reached some point a trifle higher than the
rest of the surface of the earth in the immediate neighbourhood.
Such people, to use the expressive phrase of a naval officer who
has been my companion for many years but who shies consistently
at big hills, would seem to find unbounded joy in ever “ pandering
to the sky-line.” The annual list of victims of both sexes of this
class is painful evidence of the unfitness of many of the so-called
climbers. The result of these popular ideas about mountain climbing
is that when any man in the course of the pursuit of natural history
or sport chances to be attracted to mountainous countries where

climbing, in its more literal sense, is essential, he is at once supposed

g;
to be one of the confraternity of Alpinists and is assumed to adopt
their ways. Thus many people, hearing of some of my expeditions
into the mountains after birds’ nests, ask me whether I always rope
my party together and carry an alpenstock ?

Without venturing to intrude into the sacred domain of the
traditional Alpinist, or to criticize his methods, I am content to say
that for the class of climbing I have indulged in for so many years,
to rope one’s party together would be almost suicidal and that
an alpenstock would, as a rule, be an unmitigated nuisance. At
the same time I am keenly alive to the advantages to be gained
by a rational use of ropes, as also to the comfort and assistance to
be got from an alpenstock under certain conditions. In fact, owing

The Uses of a Life-line 73
to injuries, I have of late years been compelled to make use of
one, when ascending steep slopes. The moment however a bit of
genuine climbing has to be done, the alpenstock becomes a constant
source of trouble and danger and in most instances has to be dis-
carded at any rate for a time, until the actual climbing, as apart
from scrambling up steep hillsides, is over. The fact is that in
cliff climbing a man must depend upon his own nerve, eye and
skill to carry him through. If these fail him or are likely to fail
him, he has no business to be one of the party and I for one
would respectfully decline to be roped to such a man under any
conceivable conditions.

It must be remembered that what may be useful and even
necessary for men crossing snowfields or glaciers may be entirely
unsuited to the class of mountaineering required in birdsnesting.
For as a rule, where the snow-line begins the bird-life, so far as
nests are concerned, ends. I have only on three occasions when in
quest of nests had to touch the snow-line and although at other
times the rocks may have been slippery with ice and the ground
whitened with snow, the conditions were totally distinct from those
which have hourly to be faced by the regular Alpine climber.

Ropes improperly used are a fertile source of danger and my
own experience is that very few men, save indeed some naval
officers, know enough to use them in all circumstances with
advantage and safety. Some of the incidents which I shall describe
later will I think give point to what I here say.

First as to the use of a rope as a life-line, to ensure that a
man who may slip at some awkward point may be saved from
a dangerous or possibly fatal fall. When rounding some precipitous
bluff or traversing some dangerous bit on the face of a crag
on a steep hillside, it is sometimes most desirable to lead a rope
across the same, whereby the less expert climbers may be provided
with a good hand-hold in the event of a slip. In such a case both

74 Cliff Climbing

ends of the rope should be if possible made fast to the rocks or
held by men who have found a good secure foot-hold. I never
recommend roping at such a place. I have happily never had
as companions men who could not avail themselves thus of a life-line
with far better effect.

This incidentally brings me to a somewhat interesting trait I
have noticed in many of the fine climbers I have met among the
rugged sierras of Spain, their inherent mistrust of a rope of any
sort. As a rule, if a goatherd cannot get past a bad place with-
out a rope he will not attempt it at all. I imagine this dislike
to be inherited, due to tales handed down of men who have been
killed by trusting to ropes. Judging from the average condition
and size of the ropes ordinarily available, those employed by the
arrieros (mule-drivers), this seems reasonable enough.

Again, it may happen that a cliff may be reasonably safe to
descend for a considerable distance and yet that here and there
a rope may be of the utmost value to guard against a slip. In
such cases it is of enormous advantage to get a trusty comrade
to place himself at some point whence he can see most of the face
of the cliff and tend a rope by the aid of which the climber can
descend in a bowline.

The whole art here depends upon the comrade above neither
checking the climber in his descent nor giving him too much rope.
For the former may cause him to miss his footing and throw him
off his balance, whilst the latter is doubly dangerous, for should
the climber slip, he will be brought up at the end of the slack with
a violent jerk which may prove awkward for the man above.
Hence two men above to tend the rope is an advantage although
frequently impossible to arrange for. To my mind the most
dangerous method of using a rope as a life-line is to make it fast
above with no assistant to tend it and to climb down, keeping a strain
on the rope. It sounds perfectly simple and safe and so it is when

Using a Rope Single-handed

on
NI

the descent chances to be a clear one. This, however, is rare
and the complications which ordinarily ensue from such an opera-
tion are as numerous as they are unexpected. I will merely cite
a few. In descending, the unused coiled-up portion of the rope
is a fertile source of discomfort, hitching itself up on every possible
opportunity and frequently necessitating a partial return upwards
to clear it. Later on when a bad spot is reached and the services
of the rope are needed, no sooner does the climber’s whole weight
come on it than it has an aggravating way of suddenly giving up a
foot or more, owing to some temporary foul up above having
rendered. So much for the joys of the descent, now for the
ascent. On the return journey, if the free end of the rope be left
to be hauled up after the climber, it often finds some place to curl
round and jamb especially if wet. If, on the other hand, the
climber from time to time makes up the slack and carries the
coil with him, at the most unexpected times a bight will hitch itself
on some unseen protuberance of the cliff and, as he swings himself
upwards, he will suddenly find himself hauled back by the demon
bight violently pulling at his shoulder! This last experience,
the most perilous of all, actually happened to me twice in the
course of a few minutes when re-ascending a cliff, the base of
which lay 400 feet below me. Never again!

It would be impossible to describe all the occasions when a
piece of good Alpine rope may make all the difference between
success and failure.

Many years ago I discovered an Egyptian Vulture nesting in an
horizontal fissure near the summit of a small pinnacle crag. The
whole place is not 4o feet high, but the upper part of the crag
overhangs, whereas the lower is as perpendicular as a wall. There
is a wide ledge on one side, easy of access but separated by a gully
from the fissure containing the nest, to cross which is merely a step.
But herein lies the crux of the whole business. The wild birds

76 Cliff Climbing

which have resorted to this place from time immemorial are per-
fectly well aware that this one step across the gully is exactly
what few men care to take, for there is no foothold on the far side.
But although a rope will not help a man to get at the nest either
descending from the summit or ascending from the grassy terrace
only 25 feet below, the ledge provides the proverbial way round
for I found it quite possible to pass my Alpine rope from the
adjacent ledge laterally round the crag so that it led along through
the fissure containing the nest and to join the two ends together
behind the main crag. As I was alone at the time, I made my silk
rope fast round my body and attached myself in a bowline acting
as a “traveller” running along the fixed rope, thus securing myself
against the results of a possible slip. Gripping the life-line firmly,
I made a spring forward and, with a light touch of my stockinged
foot on a small projection, swung myself far enough to grasp the
line well across the gully. Next instant I was in safety, lying at
full length along the narrow ledye. Although within a few feet of
the nest, the process of worming one’s body along between the rocks
both above and below was awkward and painful. But the return
journey was even werse, for it was impossible to turn so I had to
back out of it and more than once in doing this I got jambed and
could with difficulty free myself. Arrived at the gully, of course
I could not see where to place my foot, and in consequence I
slipped and, the life-line not being very taut, I went down some
feet. The silk traveller on the line however brought me up as
I had expected and next moment I had hauled myself back again
on the ledge. Some years later I took Rear-Admiral Arthur
Farquhar to the same place and we repeated the process, but with
improvement. For the Senior Service took the precaution to im-
provise a tackle with the spare end of the rope with which he
got such a strain on the portion round the cliff that it more
resembled a handrail than a line. He further rigged himself with

Finding a Way Round 77

an inhaul to his traveller with the result that after achieving his

desire and taking the coveted eggs himself, he was brought back or
Vv Os e

ENTERING A NEST INACCESSIBLE FROM ABOVE AND FROM BELOW.

rather run inboard in style to a place of safety. I was able to take
a picture of my comrade when thus happily employed. It is an

78 Cliff Climbing

excellent likeness but one which, it is unnecessary to say, he never
presents to his country’s foes.

I hope I have made it clear that ropes thus used by experienced
hands are at times of untold value, whereas, when in inexperienced
hands, they may prove a greater source of peril than of security.
All the same, they are absolutely essential in innumerable cases, and
nobody can hope to reach every point he may require until he has
thoroughly mastered their use.

But if there is, as I believe, a certain amount of confusion
existing in the minds of very many as to the relative spheres of
action of the Alpine climber and the birdsnester, there is even more
popular misapprehension with regard to the using of ropes for the
descent of the cliffs.

How often have I been advised to go to Flamborough Head or
St. Kilda or elsewhere and just see how the men do there. In reply,
I may say I have been to various places on our sea-coast and have
never yet seen anything which is the least applicable to the class of
work which it has been my pleasure to devote myself to for so many
years. To begin with, the conditions in the two cases are absolutely
different ; for the professional eggers know exactly what lies before
them and having the experience of former descents, know precisely
whence to start from, what points can be reached and what amount
of rope is required ; further, they know whether the cliff is a sound
one or the reverse and arrange accordingly. Contrast the wander-
ing naturalist. He has to find a way to reach a point above the
nest, a matter in some cases of the greatest difficulty and danger.
Having fixed this point, he has to make sure of a good footing
for the lowering party, to ascertain whether the cliff is overhung and
whether the nest is accessible or the reverse, how much rope will
be required, what ropes it is possible to convey to the desired point,
and, last but not least, whether the cliff be sound or rotten. This
may seem a long list of contingencies, but there is not a single one

The Choice of Suitable Ropes 79

of the half dozen that has not repeatedly cropped up during my own
experiences, and inattention to any one may spell failure or delay or
possible disaster.

So much for the difference between the problems to be solved
by the two classes—travelling naturalists and resident fishermen,
Now as to the material. The men who make their livelihood by
descending cliffs are equipped with all necessary gear for their
work. There is practically no restriction for them in the matter of
bulk and weight since they usually work within a reasonable
distance of their homes and their ropes can in many instances be
carried on carts. Thus they can afford to employ good stout ropes
both for lowering the egger and for a life-line for him to hold on
by and “lighten up” when he may require to do so. Not
uncommonly such men have regular canvas ‘ breeches”’ or seats
made in which they are slung. Further, to prevent the rope chafing
as it is paid out over the cliff it is often run through a length of
heavy leather hose-pipe or over a big wooden tray known as a
“tortoise,” fitted with a roller and wheels. Lastly the rope itself
is paid out round a stout crowbar firmly driven into the ground.
Such are only some of the accessories of many of the professional
cliff-eggers.

Some years ago a gentleman in Ireland who had taken many
Peregrines’ and Choughs’ nests in various cliffs showed me _ his
equipment. It consisted of a wooden “ tortoise’ as above, a crow-
bar, a 34 in. rope to be lowered in and a 2 in. rope to be used as
a life-line. This was an excellent fit-out and perfectly adapted for
the purpose, since he could convey the lot on an Irish car along
some country road and, at the worst, have only a short distance
for his men to take it on their shoulders to the cliff. But to the
naturalist wandering through a wild country seeking nests, all such
refinements are of course utterly out of the question. Weight, and
weight alone, decides what is possible to be carried, and in all

80 Cliff Climbing

mountainous countries, such as the wilder parts of Spain where
wheeled transport is unknown, the weights must be so adjusted
as to enable their rapid transference from the panniers of the
mules and donkeys to the shoulders of the men. As for many
years I myself acted the part of one of the said men, and took
my share in the weight-carrying, I can speak with feeling. I
constantly worked alone, carrying rope, gear, food, glasses, &c.,
and I found that the utmost that I could carry on a_ long
day’s tramp on foot through the sierras without being unduly
tired was 26 lb. Thus it came about that at the time my friend
in Ireland was using 3} in. and 2 in. ropes as his lowering
and life lines respectively, I had perforce to be content with 13 in.
rope and navel cod-line. This rope is the manila rope in use
by the Alpine Club 100 ft. of which weighs just 5 lb. I have
a length of 30 fathoms of it, 180 ft. (9 Ib.) which has done
admirable service both on cliffs and in big trees for thirteen years.

It was with such an equipment that I have been over some
very high cliffs, slung in a bowline-on-a-bight and innocent alike of
crowbars or “tortoises” above me or the orthodox canvas breeches
below me. The renowned bowline-on-a-bight is, in my opinion the
only knot to which a man should trust his life over a cliff. After
tying this knot in the normal fashion, with two equal-sized loops
or bights, it should be carefully readjusted so as exactly to fit
the body, one bight being the size of the man from the top
button of his waistcoat, round the body just below the armpits, and
the other long enough to pass under the thigh and up to the
starting point. A normal size would be about 4o in. for the small
bight and 50 in. for the larger, subject to subsequent adjustment.
A man thus slung has perfect freedom of movement for both
legs and arms and cannot fall out of the sling in the untoward,
but ever possible, emergency of his being stunned by a falling
stone dislodged by the rope from above or injured by any other

A Good Canvas Sling 81

mishap. It is as well to fold a waistcoat and with it pad the longer
bight, else it is apt after a time to feel rather sharp, especially
if a thin rope be employed.

Owing to the risk of a thin rope becoming frayed on a cliff,
I have during the last ten years often employed 2 in. rope in place

of the Alpine 14 in. which I have relegated to tree work or for

i CLIMBER IN CANVAS SLING READY TO DESCEND A CLIFF.

use as a life-line and for general purposes as hereafter described.
One hundred feet of 2 in. manila weighs about 9 Ib. and, owing
to its bulk is as much as a man can carry with comfort when
climbing among rocks. It enormously adds to the comfort of
the climber if in place of making a descent in the bight of the
rope, whether it be 2 in. or bigger stuff, he be provided with
acanvas sling. This is nothing more than a belt of folded canvas
6

82 Cliff Climbing

sewn with bolt-ropes, 3 in. broad and about 38 in. in length, which
is joined at each end to a second one slightly wider and about 44 in.
long. At the ends are a couple of thimbles eyeleted. This belt
is adjusted to the body in a manner exactly similar to the bowline
on a bight, the longer canvas loop being passed under one thigh
and the shorter one round the body under the armpits. The rope
is then rove through the two eyelets for about 4 ft., the eyelets
being brought together and secured with two half-hitches. The
end of the rope is then passed over one shoulder and under the
other and secured again to the eyelets, so as to prevent the sling
slipping down. In the preceding picture the method of adjusting
the canvas sling to the body and of attaching the rope is shown.

Among very big cliffs where there is a chance of a rope jambing
or fraying against any sharp edge I would strongly recommend the
employment of 24 in. rope as a lowering line and of 13 in. asa life-
line. The first is a cumbersome affair to carry, but it is as well to
have in big places tackle which is beyond suspicion.

A most difficult problem at times is how to carry sufficient length
of rope to ensure no join being necessary. Up to 1906 I usually
carried three lengths of 100 ft. apiece and on an emergency joined
them up. If the latter process be effected by means of a long-splice,
well and good. But the exigencies of time and place as often as
not prohibit this, and recourse must be had to bending the ends
together. Under normal conditions this may be all right but in
going over a strange cliff, it is impossible to know what difficulties
may be encountered and it is most unwise to take unnecessary
risks. When a long piece of rope is required, say 200 or 300 ft. or
more, the best way is to have it in one piece made up into separate
coils of 100 ft. each, with 6 to 12 ft. drift between each coil. Each
man of the lowering party can then sling 1o0o ft. round the body
and follow in Indian file. In the picture a lowering party are shown
thus carrying 50 fathoms (300 ft.) of 23 in. rope.

Carrying Ropes when Climbing 83

)

When awkward places are reached, it is usually better to sling
the coils on the outer shoulder since it may be necessary from
time to time to pass them from hand to hand and deposit them on
ledges or other projections whilst some difficult bit has to be
climbed. It is essential that ropes should be neatly coiled and

METHOD OF CARRYING A LONG PIECE OF ROPE DURING A CLIMB.

seized round with string or yarn at several places so as not to
present loops which may catch on projections on a cliff. The great
danger incurred by using knots to join ropes is not the possibility
of their drawing but their liability to jamb in some cranny of the
cliff or against some sharp edge, either when lowering or hauling

84 Cliff Climbing

up a dead weight. An awkward experience of this very thing
occurred when I was descending to the nest of a Bearded Vulture.
On this occasion the ready resource of a comrade alone got me out
of what might have been very serious trouble. Hence I am now
somewhat shy of using ropes knotted together.

The very essence of good cliff work is absolute discipline
throughout the undertaking, especially as regards no talking or
‘back chat.” To ensure this, before descending I invariably
appoint one man “captain” of the show and impress on the others
that there is no danger unless they wilfully cause it by inattention
to the instructions | have given them. For a small cliff two men
are sufficient to haul a light man up but three is a better number.
I have frequently been lowered over small places by one man
but do not recommend it. It is all right if all goes right, but if
things go wrong it may lead to trouble.

The captain should see that the end of the rope is (whenever
possible) strongly secured to some adjacent crag. This at times
is of great use on an emergency arising. He then settles himself
down in a sitting position as close to the edge as he can safely
find a secure footing, and passes the rope under his right arm,
Nos. 2 and 3 prolong the line behind him in a straight line from
the strain in similar attitudes. Firm foot-hold of course is essential.
Sometimes, if a cliff be peculiarly dangerous, it is very useful for
the captain to post himself at the very edge, whence he can either
see or hear the signals of the man down the cliff.

This course is especially useful when a cliff is so shelving near
the brink as to make it unsafe or impossible for the lowering party
to obtain secure positions anywhere near it. The captain in this
case should be himself in a bowline and when he has settled himself
on the very edge of the cliff, his rope should be securely made fast to
a rock.

As a matter of fact it is unusual to find a cliff either in a lime-

Descending a Cliff—Whistle Signals 85

stone or sandstone country where a rope cannot be thus secured; if
not to a rock, then to some tough tree or bush. When no such place
can be found, the rope should be passed round the waist of the biggest
and heaviest man of the party, who should ensconce himself in rear
of the rest in a billet whence he cannot be ousted by a sudden jerk.
I have adopted this plan with excellent results when working over
very high cliffs. All shouting and hailing should be avoided on
the part of the man down the rope. I always carry an “Acme ”
dog whistle on a short lanyard round my neck. One blast signifies
“ Hold hard.” Two blasts: ‘‘ Lower away.” Three blasts : ‘“ Haul
up.” Where there is reason to apprehend any complications, the
whistle should be carried in the mouth. It is easy then, if in
sudden troubie, to give one blast and cause the party above to
hold hard.

It is marvellous how clearly a whistle can be heard when the
human voice some little way down a cliff is utterly unintelligible
to those above. Nothing is so demoralizing to a lowering party
as to hear a man far out of sight shouting inarticulately ; in
such cases it may make all the difference in the world whether
they chance to do the right thing and at the right moment.

The climber, having been lowered over the cliff until he arrives
at the nest or at a cavern or ledge which conducts to it, may
find it necessary to move laterally along the face of the cliff for
some yards. If the local conditions permit, the safest course is for
him to give the signal ‘“ Lower away” and, after hauling in all
the slack he may require, signal ‘‘ Hold hard” and coil down the
spare rope. He then crawls along to the point which he wishes
to reach,

But sometimes there may be a very extensive terrace or
portion of the cliff climbable without a rope from his point of
vantage. In such a case the safest course is to unbend the rope
and make it fast to some bush or crag and then proceed to

86 Cliff Climbing

explore the cliff. Having finished this he returns to the point
whence he started, bends on the rope again, and holding firmly
on to the cliff, signals “Haul up.” It is always best, as soon as
the slack has been taken in, to signal ‘ Hold hard” before making
the final ascent. This gives time to the party above to get a fair
strain on the rope and enables the man below to make a comfort-
able exit from his ledge. Disregard for this small rule has resulted
in my being jerked off swinging in mid-air by over-anxious friends
above, an event as alarming for them as it was unpleasant for me.

In ascending, a skilful climber will soon pick up the rhythm
of the haulers and whenever the cliff permits, will, by catching
hold of it with his hands, “ lighten up” his weight. It is marvel-
lous how even a couple of fingers on a ledge at the right
moment will ease the efforts of those above in hauling up.

During an ascent of this description a climber should xever
‘get ahead of his rope”; in other words, he should always keep
a strain on it. A rope attached to a man which is allowed to
sag down may very easily catch on some projecting rock just
below him and when the men above give the next pull he may
find himself being violently hauled downwards, a most unpleasant
predicament.

I cannot too emphatically caution all would-be climbers as to
the possible dangers of meddling with the ropes unless they are
skilful at knots. Even the most practised and expert hands may
get into trouble by this means, for long familiarity with danger
makes all men at times careless. I will cite but one example.
In 1894 I descended the. big cliff known as the Laja del Ciscar.
I had with me 180 ft. of new Alpine 13 in. rope and was lowered
by two Spaniards. It was by no means a sheer descent, save
now and again for 20 ft. or so, where a vertical fissure ran
down to a ledge which in turn sloped outwards until it merged
in the general surface of the cliff. When near the end of the

A Slippery Hitch 87

rope I noted to my chagrin a Vulture’s nest only 20 ft. below me,
so re-ascending a few feet to a point where I could get a secure

foot-hold, I unbent the Alpine rope from my sling, joined on my

silk rope, attaching the latter to my sling, and was lowered to
the ledge. I took a photograph of the Griffon’s nest and egy

(which subsequently appeared, by the way, in Colonel Irby’s

THE LAJA DEL CISCAR.

(Summit 620 ft. above stream at base.)

second edition) and then signalled to be hauled up. It was more
of a scramble than a regular ascent, but after going up 20 or
30 ft. I bethought me that it would be wiser to recover touch
with the Alpine rope, so I unbent the silk rope and attached
the Alpine rope once more to my sling by two half-hitches, well
hardened down.

ioe)
i
)

Cliff Climbing

During the ascent I stopped several times to explore some
other nesting sites, the rope hanging slack. Finally I signalled

ON THE FACE OF THE LAJA DEL CISCAR.

“Haul up,” and started upwards. It was whilst I was being
dragged up one of the steep slippery gullies with my whole weight
on the rope that my eye chanced to fall on the knot which

A Famous Silk Rope 89

secured the rope to the sling. This was about on the level of
my middle waistcoat button. I had started as already described,
with two half-hitches and a foot of rope to spare, and, as my
eye caught the knot, I realized that one of the half-hitches was
gone and that the other was slowly drawing and lacked only a few
inches to run clear! I quickly grasped the rope above me with
one hand and somehow got hand-hold on the next ledge above,
but only just before the knot drew! It was a frightful experience
and due to sheer carelessness, for I had not taken into account
the “curl” in the new rope when it was hanging slack nor the
effect of the hot sun upon it. Eventually I got more rope eased
down, and after making a secure knot this time was hauled up.

It all happened long ago but I can still recall my sensations
when, as I steadied myself on the friendly ledge, I glanced down
that steep slope to the foot of the cliff. The moral of the tale
is that no trust should ever be placed in two half-hitches, espe-
cially in the case of a new rope, unless the free end be seized
on to the standing part.

No account of the ropes I employ would be complete without
a description of my silk rope, already incidentally referred to, which
has been my constant companion for nigh thirty years. This is
one of those carried by Tyrolean sportsmen and is my most
cherished memento of the happy birdsnesting days I spent with
Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria in the spring of 1879. The Prince
wore—as did his chief companion, Count Hans Wilczek (a famous
sportsman)—the Tyrolean Jager costume, and both invariably
carried these silk ropes in their ritcksacs. It was after a particularly
nasty climb up an awkward fir tree to get the nest of the Black
Kite that The Prince insisted on my having one of the silk ropes
they carried to use as an aid in any such emergencies in the future.
This rope is of strong plaited raw silk over 20 ft. in length with
a loop at either end, well spliced and served. It is almost exactly

90 Cliff Climbing

1 in. in girth and weighs less than } Ib. It can be carried in the
pocket and occupies little more space than does a bandana hand-
kerchief. As regards strength, | have now and again made it fast
to a bough and two men weighing over 20 stone between them
have sat in the bight, swing-fashion. Both when working out
along the slippery branch of some lofty tree or when sidling along
some narrow ledge on a precipice have | used it on countless
occasions as a life-line.

Since I have taken to photography it has often given me the
only means of securing myself when endeavouring to work the
camera with effect in some dangerous situation. Its lightness and
compactness have also frequently made me carry it when no climbing
was imminent and it has in turn performed an endless succession
of duties, of which slinging Great Bustard across a saddle, picketing
a horse and towing a duck-punt are but a few chance examples.
One winter I made a pioneer skating trip for over 20 miles along
the Hythe canal whilst the ice was yet thin and reputed to be
unsafe. Luckily I accomplished my task without going through
but the rope in my pocket gave me no little confidence. From
time to time allusion will be made to this famous rope in describing
various birdsnesting adventures where it has stood me in good stead.

Saieteeinmeneicen stig

WHITE STORK.

Ciconta alba (Bechst).

Il—/lN A SPANISH LAGUNA.

CHAPTER I.
A DAY IN A LAGUNA.

The lagunas of southern Spain—Dense growth of bulrush and reeds—Some
unpleasant residents—Herds of swine and their work—Storks—Buff-backed
Egrets and their occupation—Water tortoises and snakes—Purple Herons—
Marsh Harriers—Undesirable neighbours—Wading through the water
channels—Purple Gallinules—Bitterns—Great Reed Warblers—Whiskered
Terns—A floating lake dwelling—Bulls and other cattle in the marshes.

MID the marshes of southern Spain a
great variety of birds find suitable
nesting-places. The size and exact
locality of these swamps vary from
year to year and depend upon the
amount and time of the rainfall dur-
ing the winter months. — But there
are certain low-lying portions which
usually remain flooded for months
after the shallows around have be-
come expanses of sun-baked mud.
There are places of this description

near my dwelling and since the quest
y g |

of nests in such spots is unlike birds
nesting in any of its more normal
phases, I shall give an account of one here.

To begin with, such places usually have a fairly hard and level

92 A Day in a Laguna

bottom, and can, as a rule, be traversed with all reasonable security.
Between the months of April and June they are densely overgrown
with enormously strong and tall bulrush (Scz7fus lacustris) (not
the great reed-mace [Z7ypha Jatifolia|, by the way, which is
popularly thus styled), which make all movement through them
a continuous struggle. I have taken various enthusiastic birds-
nesters to such places, among them my indefatigable comrade,
Admiral Arthur Farquhar, and have seen one and all of them
eventually reduced to a condition of complete exhaustion, Should
a fresh breeze be blowing, the big reeds get a “lie” which
makes it almost impossible to force one’s way through them
“against the grain” so to speak, and the explorer is compelled
to alter his course and be content to drift with the line of least
resistance through the bigger patches until, upon emerging on open
water he can work his way up to windward and thus to some extent
recover his lost direction. Wandering thus, perhaps up to your waist
in water and with the feathery rushes waving high above your
head, it is often difficult to keep your bearings. In theory, the
direction of the wind and position of the sun should be sufficient
guides, but in practice it often happens that it is no easy matter
to work your way out of the sea of reeds and rushes which encircle
you. After one or two such experiences, including being caught in
a heavy rainstorm which for a time made observations impossible
and obliterated all landmarks, I took care to put a compass in my
pocket before diving into the reeds.

Such localities ever abound with leeches and nobody who does
not require extensive blood-letting should enter them without taking
precautions as to his dress. Stockinged legs are of course about the
worst thing possible. But besides the leeches there is a mysterious
and to me unknown water-beast—I call it such for want of a more
definite name, but whether it be reptile or insect I cannot say—
which inflicts a most serious bite or sting. The immediate effect

Immense Reed-beds 93

is to raise a very painful swelling, the skin assuming the colour
of a ripe raspberry for some inches around the wound—the pain
lasting usually for twenty-four hours. I have known men standing
in the laguna after sundown in the month of December, waiting for
duck, to be bitten by this mysterious thing and I mention its
existence as an additional warning to those who may wade. in
Spanish marshes to take the precaution to wear protective clothing.

To me the most trying part of these lagunas is the impossibility
of resting from time to time. Now and again some more solidly
constructed nest of Heron or Harrier may offer a temporary seat,
but it is usually only a question of time before your weight causes
the nest to sink below the water.

But in saying that the bottom of these lagunas is level, | omitted
one rather important proviso. It is true there are many hundreds
of acres which are as level as a well-made polo-ground, but there
are again many hundreds more where the vast herds of pigs which
find subsistence in this region have been at work digging for
tubers. During the months of the year that the plains are either
moist or submerged a strong growth of reeds, the Cyperus longus,
(known to the Spaniards as castajiuelas from castaiio a chestnut),
having round tuberous roots, covers certain portions of the plain
and the systematic way in which the pigs convert such spots into
a series of shallow craters separated by low banks is surprising.
So long as these excavations can be seen they are of no great
account, although tiring to walk across. But when covered by a
few inches of muddy water they are intensely exasperating and
vastly increase the chances of a fall, since all your calculations
are thrown out by suddenly finding one leg is either 6 in. longer
or shorter, as the case may be, than it may reasonably be
assumed to be. A stumble and fall under such conditions, even
in the shallows, is a most unpleasant affair. For this reason |
invariably carry a long iron-spiked herdsman’s stick when on such
expeditions,

94 A Day in a Laguna

It would be beyond the scope of this chapter to mention all
the birds seen during a day’s work in the marshes and I shall
restrict. myself to describing some of those which are most
noticeable. As you approach the lower portions of the plain near
the laguna, White Storks (Czconza alba) are to be seen busily
engaged in their search for frogs and other reptiles as well as for
beetles. These birds of course do not nest in the marsh but
they form so conspicuous a portion of its bird-life that they cannot
be left out. Although many resort to the big towns to nest, others
build in trees or on the tops of the small reed-built cottages or
chosas of the herdsmen. I saw such a nest only this year on the
summit of a small stack of straw close to a large cortzjo or farm-
house. The old birds had taken extraordinary pains to twist and
turn the first big sticks they brought so as to weave them securely
into the binding withes of the straw stack and thus assure them-
selves of a sound foundation upon which to rear the usual big
platform of sticks. Another marsh-frequenting bird is the hand-
some Buff-backed Egret (Ardeola russata), which are in constant
attendance on the herds of cattle which pass so much of their
time amid the rich pastures around the lagunas. These birds
stalk gravely around the beasts or perch on their backs seeking
their favourite food, the parasites which infest all animal life in
warm countries. The local name for these birds is Purga dueyes,
or ‘cattle cleansers,” derived from this habit.

Leaving the muddy shore, you splash along through the shallows
amid a scattered growth of reeds and water-plants. As the water
deepens and the reeds grow denser, many Coots’ nests, some with
six or seven eggs, are to be seen. On a hot day every nest not
in occupation by the Coots is usually tenanted by two or three
water tortoises (Clemmys leprosa) which invariably scuttle overboard
as one approaches. These reptiles literally swarm in the rivers and
lagunas of southern Spain and are one of the many foes of the

Water-tortoises and Snakes 9

sportsman who may lose a wounded duck overnight. Both they
and a huge water-beetle (Yydzcus) make short work of anything
they have a mind to devour.

As you work your way forward towards the big reed-beds from
time to time, Mallard and, more seldom, Wild Duck spring from the
reeds, but this is no place to look for their nests which are hidden
amid the standing corn or asphodel-covered hill-sides miles away.
I have often come upon Wild Ducks’ nests when riding across
the hills in quest of Bustards and it is ever a marvel how they
manage to conduct their tiny atoms of newly hatched ducklings
across the long stretch of hard dry ground alive with vermin of all
sorts, both four-footed and winged, besides predaceous snakes and
lizards, to the desired sanctuary of some reed-grown laguna. Tew
friendly streams lead to the marshes below, for in Spain in the
spring months most of the smaller streams are either dry or merely
a succession of pools with steep vertical sides, ill-adapted as
channels of communication for such puny birds. The Spaniards
aver that the Wild Duck carries her young from the far distant
nests to the laguna on her back.

Now and again you come upon masses of decaying reeds above
the general surface of the water, and here you sce many snakes
basking in the sun, sometimes a dozen together. These are the
Viperine Grass Snake (7vopedonotus viperinus) and are well named,
for although harmless, like the Common Grass Snake, in size, build,
flatness and breadth of head and zig zag markings down the back,
they bear a remarkable superficial resemblance to the poisonous
Viper (Vepera latastt).

Gradually the water deepens and the reed-beds become denser
and taller until you arrive at the great tract of bulrush which
forms the sanctuary for so many birds. Considering the number
of Purple Herons (Ardea purpurea) which nest in these marshes it
is curious how little one sees of them and how easy it is to miss

96 A Day in a Laguna

their nests. As in most kinds of birdsnesting, I have found it far
better to go to some commanding point whence | could watch
a marsh with my glasses from a distance and thus decide upon
the best part to search for Herons’ nests than to tramp aimlessly
through it on the off-chance of finding some. The essence of
success in all such operations lies of course in keeping to the
required direction when one leaves the higher ground and enters
the big reeds. Marsh Harriers (Czvcus @ruginosus) abound in such
places and as you work through the reeds they frequently rise
from some temporary resting-place amid the beaten-down rushes.
Owing to the cover from view given by the high reeds these hand-
some birds often pass close by; the creamy white of their beautifully
marked heads and the delicate tints of their ash-coloured shoulders,
wings and tails, when thus flying in the sunlight, can hardly be
imagined, certainly not realized, from a stuffed specimen in a
museum. One day I saw one of these birds make a sudden
stoop and disappear among the sparsely growing reeds within
40 yards of me. As there were at least 2 ft. of water and the
reeds were not at all thick, I was considerably puzzled by the
manoeuvre and proceeded quickly towards the spot, only to find
it had alighted in a Coot’s nest with eggs which the rightful
proprietor had left owing to my near approach. No harm was
done and, the Harrier having departed the Coot as quickly retook
possession. From this it is tolerably evident that the Coots can
protect their eggs so long as they do not leave their nests. No
doubt the Harrier, upon seeing the Coot depart, thought the oppor-
tunity too good to be missed and thus came within easy range of
me and in fact did not leave until I was close to the nest.

Purple Herons sit very close and often spring from the nest
within a few yards of the intruder. The nests are simply collections
of dead bulrush, the base being usually formed of last year’s growth,
brown and withered, still standing as it grew but bent and beaten

Purple Herons 97
/

down, upon which a mass of rushes brought in from around forms

a superstructure. The cup or depression is usually lined with dried
reeds and is raised from 12 to 30 in. above water-level. The eggs

NEST OF PURPLE HERON,

are from three to five in number and of the well-known delicate

pale blue of the Common Heron's. Once I found a nest with seven

eggs in it, but probably this was a joint-stock establishment. Fre

quently nests will be found with only one or two hard-set eggs.
7

98 A Day in a Laguna

In such cases I have good reason to believe the Marsh Harriers
have devoured the others. More than once when I have put a
Purple Heron off its nest I have seen a Marsh Harrier dash down
and commence to eat the eggs, and I have sometimes disturbed
one of these robbers in the act.

On 26 April 1903 I found a number of Heron’s nests containing
from one to four eggs all hard set (I tested them in the water to
find this out) and all stained with blood, showing that the Harriers

EGGS OF PURPLE HERON.
(Size 2°4 in. X I°7 in.)

had been at work among them. The Harriers seem to take toll of
the first eggs laid, for curiously enough in another year I visited on
13 May a number of nests in the same marsh all of which (save one
with five) contained perfectly fresh eggs. The Harriers frequently
lay their eggs in the Herons’ nests and must surely be most
undesirable neighbours.

At places in these lagunas there are extensive pools of open
water and again narrow and sinuous channels which always look

A Floating Terns’ Colony 99

peculiarly deep and dangerous but are seldom so. It is a curious
sensation wading alone along these water-lanes with the high
rushes cutting off one’s view of the land on all sides. Sometimes,
when moving quietly in such a spot, I have heard Bitterns calling
in the dense reeds close by or been startled by the curious cry of
the big Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio cwruleus), These beautifully
coloured but ungainly birds at times rise at your feet and, flapping
away for a few yards, subside into the reeds again. Once I came
round a corner almost face to face with a Great Crested Grebe.
The fine Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus turdotdes), which
builds a most artistic nest suspended amid the bulrush, breeds
in this marsh and its powerful song can be often heard at close
quarters.

In the more open parts of the laguna, away from the high reeds
and where the whole surface of the water is whitened by the flower-
ing ranunculus, the Whiskered Terns ({/ydrochelidon hybrida) con-
struct their floating nests of loosely knitted green reeds. Some of
these flimsy platforms are held by their surroundings and are thus
lightly moored, but others again are attached to nothing and drift
with the wind. Thus one year in May I came upon several score
of nests scattered about among the young reeds and upon revisiting
the place a few days later found that the majority of them had been
blown by the wind to the lee-side of the laguna, where they were
packed in a dense mass. Three is the usual complement of eggs
laid, of a delicate green ground-colour, richly blotched and spotted
with black and brown. The old birds are singularly beautiful on
the wing, their dark breasts appearing in the brilliant sunlight to be
quite black and contrasting with their silvery grey backs and wings.
So long as you are in the neighbourhood of one of their lake
dwellings they keep up a great commotion and_ indulge in voci-
ferous cries. Now and again a villainous Marsh Harrier intent on
egg-stealing comes flapping and skimming along near the Terns’

100 A Day in a Laguna

sanctuary, upon which the gallant little birds make up a party to
mob and harass the big intruder, dipping and striking at him from
above until he makes off.

As already mentioned, when wading about in these lagunas
I carry a long stick such as all cattle-herds use in Spain. It enables
me to plumb the depths, and saves many a fall either from the
uneven bottom or when the reeds and water-plants get around my
feet. When carrying photographic apparatus, a fall in 3 ft. of water
may spell untold disaster.

Very often when working about these marshes you come right
upon bulls or cows which have betaken themselves to the reed-beds
to avoid the flies and heat of the day. On such occasions a good
bull-stick affords at least some moral support and one which has at
times extricated me from awkward situations. What would be its
precise effect on a bull which meant to be disagreeable I cannot
say and I hope never to test. I once asked a famous old bull-herd
whether in such an untoward case, I could not with my steel-pointed
garrocha intimidate the brute. He replied, drily, ‘‘ Ya vendra
mas pronto,” ‘‘He’d only come at you all the quicker”; not very
encouraging to the amateur bull-fighter !

*(‘uury) SHSOULSNAD SNILID
MAINNVH HSUVIN

4
q6

IOL

CHAPTER. 1.
THE HARRIERS.

Marsh Harriers—The most indefatigable of hunters—A constant trial to the
sportsman— Semi-aquatic habits — Beautiful adult plumage — Montagu’s
Harrier — Hen Harrier — Pale-chested Harrier —Marsh Harriers’ deep
engrossment in search of quarry—Their boldness and strength—Quickness
of vision—Relative quickness of vision in birds—The small Gulls apparently
the quickest— Colonies of Harriers— Young Harriers in nest — Their
pugnacity—An unlucky day’s birdsnesting.

HIS beautiful family is well repre-
sented in southern Spain. The
Marsh Harrier (Czvcus @ruginosus)
is especially abundant and is to be
found in great numbers in all the
low-lying and = marshy districts.
Throughout the year and in all
weathers, from earliest dawn to the
lingering light after sundown, they

are to be seen patiently quartering

the reed beds and swampy portions
of the plain in quest of anything that

may turn up, for nothing seems to

come amiss to them. ‘They are par-
ticularly fond of the fresh-water
tortoises which abound in such localities ; they are also famous
egg-stealers and in the spring months, as already described, exact
a heavy tribute from the nests of the Purple Herons and Coots.

102 The Harriers

To the sportsman they are an ever-present trial, for they are
constantly on the look-out for wounded wild-fowl or Snipe and
they have a knack of suddenly appearing from nowhere and annex-
ing a wounded bird within sight but beyond shot of the gunner.
Any bird not immediately picked up by the shooter is sure to be
devoured by these diligent searchers. The rapidity with which they
do this is both surprising and annoying. Not long ago I dropped a
Wigeon dead on the top of a grassy bank about 50 yards across
a river; not having my retriever with me I walked down to a ford
not half a mile off and crossing, returned along the opposite bank
to pick up the bird. But in the brief interval a Harrier had been
down and had eaten the best part of the Wigeon’s breast! It
may be taken as a rule that any duck shot at evening flight
which are not picked up at the time will be found by the Harriers
at dawn and devoured. Now and again, if a goose or duck
chances to fall on its breast amid the reeds, it may perhaps escape
notice for a few hours, but the sportsman who has failed to pick up
his birds overnight will in most cases find them picked clean when
he reaches the spot next day. What between the prowling foxes
which carry off any wounded birds that may reach the shore and the
water tortoises, which devour those which may fall into the dense
reed-beds, the chances of recovering wild-fowl lost over-night
are indeed smal.

I do not know any bird of prey which is so thoroughly at
home among the waters of the big lagunas as the Marsh Harrier ;
many pairs may be described as being semi-aquatic in their habits.
During the winter months from my shooting punt I see them
habitually resting and roosting in the clumps of dead reeds a mile
or more from the foreshore, whilst in the spring they invariably
nest in the dense beds of bulrush or reeds, which at this time of
the year are usually 8 ft. to 9 ft. in height. Most commonly they
seize upon the nest of some luckless Purple Heron, adding insult
to injury by first eating the big blue eggs of that bird.

Semi-aquatic Habits 103

The changes of plumage -which all the Harriers undergo, and
especially the Marsh Harriers, are marvellous and not a little
perplexing. The difference between the sexes too, as is well

known, is very remarkable. An adult male Marsh Harrier with

NEST OF MARSH HARRIER.

its ash-coloured markings on wings, shoulders and tail is very
beautiful. The adult female is quite a different-looking bird, rich
chocolate brown in colour with a pale yellow crown; so very
pale at times as to appear quite white. This is the plumage

figured in the plate.

104 The Harriers

Next in point of numbers to the Marsh Harriers is Montagu’s
Harrier (C. ceneraceus), a species not always easy to tell on the wing
from the Hen Harrier (C. cyaneus), the best-known English species,
and the Pale-chested Harrier (C. macrurvus). In all these three the
adult males are of a delicate slate grey with black tips to their
wings, whilst the females are generally brown in appearance.
Montagu’s Harrier, whilst at times nesting in marshes, also resorts
to heaths and dry localities. Colonel Irby found a colony of over
twenty pairs breeding in a marsh in Morocco.

Although I have constantly come across all these species, my
daily companion at all times of the year when in the low-lying
country is the Marsh Harrier. Watching them as I have, at all
seasons and in all sorts of places, now when waiting for duck to
flight or perchance in spring-time when watching some marsh-birds
nesting or again when crouching low during a Bustard or Wild
Goose drive, one marvels at their undefeated pertinacity and
unceasing efforts to find their prey. That they are extremely
guick-sighted is plain from their mode of life and methods of
hunting. All the same, I have frequently outwitted them when
I have been lying prone; then, while | remained perfectly motion-
less, they have sometimes been so engrossed in their minute inspec-
tion of what lies below as to pass within close shot. Their boldness
is at times remarkable. In January 1907 I was lying up waiting
for wild-fowl, concealed amid some matted scrub and _ herbage.
I had killed a Grey-lag Goose and some duck and had set them
up on forked sticks to act as decoys, close to the foreshore and
within 30 yards of my position. Presently an adult male Marsh
Harrier came beating up-wind along the water's edge and upon
spying the decoys made a dive at them, but apparently suspecting
that something was wrong, alighted within a few feet of a Pintail
drake. I was curious to see what he would do as I imagined he
would hardly be able to lift so heavy a bird. Next moment the

A Nest of Young Savages 105

Harrier ran at the defunct bird and literally jumping on its back,
seized it and, taking wing, was about to make off, when, in order not
to lose my duck, I shot him.

The comparative quickness of vision of the various orders of
birds is interesting to study. My own conclusions are that none
see quicker than the smaller species of Gulls, and after them the
larger Gulls. The most wary of birds, such as the Great and
Little Bustards, Curlew and various raptorial birds, have now and
again all come past me within easy shot, when lying concealed.
Not so the small Gulls, which ceaselessly drift up and down the
waters of the lagunas in winter and which somehow always detect
one’s presence before coming within shot and swerve off.

In some of the large tracts of bulrush Marsh Harriers nest in
colonies and even in small marshes it is no uncommon thing to
find two or three nests within 20 to 4o yards of one another.
As far as I can judge, they seem to prefer to occupy some other
bird’s nest to building one for themselves, but I know of several
instances where they undoubtedly built their own nest. This once
occurred close to my quarters, a pair of Harriers building their nest
in the reeds not 10 yards from the bank of a reed-grown pool.

It is many years since I found my first nest of young Harriers,
and it cost me dear. I was riding alone near a marsh, and seeing
some Harriers enter a high patch of bulrush I dismounted and,
picketing my horse, waded in. The water was 3 ft. deep and the
reeds so dense that it was difficult to force one’s way through them.
Suddenly I came upon a nest with four young birds in the white-
down stage with their primaries just budding. The instant they
saw me they sprang up and showed fight, assuming various
attitudes of defiance. It was a novel and interesting sight to
see these little savages in their home amid the waters. Upon my
attempting to pick up one of them to examine it closer, it struck
out an abnormally long yellow leg armed with black needle-like

106 The Harriers

claws. In fact every time I tried to grab one of them I was met by
similar tactics accompanied by fierce digs of their sharp little beaks.
It was in truth difficult to find any spot left unguarded by the four
beaks and thirty-two sharp claws of these little wretches. Owing
to their weight, the nest had got flattened down and was more like
a raft on the surface than anything else. In it was a half-eaten
water-vole and the remains of some small snakes and frogs. I made
a water-colour sketch of it, of which the picture here reproduced
is a facsimile.

This was one of my unlucky days. True it is I got some
Harrier’s eggs (there was a second nest hard by with five eggs),
also | made the acquaintance of young Marsh Harriers for the first
time. Unfortunately during my absence in the marsh, my horse
picked up some poisonous herb which caused its death within two
days, a sad loss to me and one which seriously interfered with my
ornithoiogical work during the season of 1879.

8
COMMON CRANE.

Grus communis (Bechst).

107

CHAPTER Ii.
THE COMMON CRANE (Gris comsiuiis).

A conspicuous feature in the marshes—Flighting at sunset—Lack of caution
after dark—Musical call—Vast migration in spring and autumn—Crane for-
mations—Exact compass-course of migration—Decreasing numbers of nesting
birds in Andalucia—In quest of the Crane’s nest—Unwelcome intruders—
Unseasonable destruction of birds—A second day’s observations—I ndecisive
results—A third day—Protest by other bird-residents—The Cranes appear—
Difficulties of ‘“‘ marking” in great reed-beds—Advance towards the birds—
Cranes simulate disablement—Cranes’ nests and Cranes’ paths—Am baffled
—The fourth day—Value of a cross-bearing—Find the nest with eggs—
Photographing under difficulties — Retriever and Crane’s nest— Young
Cranes.

O both the naturalist and the sportsman
in the low-lying parts of southern
Spain the most conspicuous of birds
is the Common Crane and his note
is the most familiar. | Wherever
large marshes are to be met with
they are to be seen either in pairs
or in small parties, walking through
the reeds and rushes with the digni-
fied slow step so characteristic of the
family, ever and anon pausing to
investigate some matter of interest
in the shape of a luckless water
insect or perchance a frog or other

small reptile which may come
within their purview. At other times they may be seen feeding

108 The Common Crane

along the low hillsides bordering on the marshland, where they
seem to find many beetles and other morsels to reward their
researches. But they are by no means wholly insectivorous, and are
at times somewhat destructive of the newly sown corn and, later,
of the bean crops. These truly noble birds were once common in
our fenlands but have long since disappeared, their title in many
parts of the British Isles being now conferred on the Common
Heron, a bird which, although large in the eyes of Englishmen, is
considerably less than half the size of the rightful owner of the
name.

During the winter months considerable flocks of Cranes congre-
gate in favourable regions in southern Spain, and it is no uncom-
mon sight to see parties of fifty or more flighting of an evening to
the marshes to feed. By day they are ever on the alert and hence,
happily, are rarely shot; but after a nightfall no bird is so confiding
and all who have waited for duck after sundown in these parts can
testify how on such occasions, provided the gunner remains still,
these great birds will placidly fly within 25 yards of him, their
curious creaking cry having well advertised their approach some
minutes before they come in sight. In such circumstances nothing
could save them from extermination save the fact that their flesh
is very coarse, and that few beyond the very poorest of the country
folk care to eat it. It is indeed a sin to kill these magnificent birds;
for magnificent they are as they stalk solemnly through the reeds,
the brilliant sun of Andalucia illuminating the lustrous silver grey of
their backs and the splendid black tertial plumes which deck their
graceful forms. Their strangely melodious and far-reaching cry,
so constantly heard by day, is also indissolubly connected with the
wilder side of life in Spain and has given interest and pleasure
to many who were ignorant whence it came. But besides these
numerous winter visitors to Andalucia and a few summer residents,
enormous numbers of Cranes pass in the autumn through Morocco

Compass-bearing of Migration 109

returning northwards along the same route in the month of March.
The numbers that are sometimes seen on these occasions are
well-nigh incredible. Colonel Irby and Dr. Stark, both most
trustworthy observers, have recorded how on one occasion they
reckoned that over 4,000 had in one day passed over the spot which
I am about to describe. This was on 11 March 1874, and it is
typical of the marvellous regularity of all birds when on migration
that upon the same day in 1907, exactly thirty-three years later,
the passage of the Cranes northward was once again at its maximum
at the same place. The well-known V-shaped formation in which
they usually fly varies in composition from a few individuals to
fourscore or more on either side. At times they drop the V
formation and move in long undulating ‘skeins.”

The direction taken by the successive flocks (as well as of that
of the Storks, which pass northwards in flocks, at times numbering
from 400 to 500 each, but some weeks earlier than the Cranes),
in accordance with the observations made by me for many years in
the same district, is almost invariably the same, namely a line which
when plotted on the map passes about 6 miles west of the old town
of Tarifa and runs from S, by E. 3 E. to N. by W. 3 W.

From this region they seem to spread all over Europe, their
nests having been obtained in the far north in 1853 by the naturalist
Wolley, who, as is well known, was the first British ornithologist
to find the nest; his delightful description of it amid the birch-
grown bogs of Finland has given pleasure to very many. They
have also an eastern stream of migration which I have myself
witnessed in the Levant.

About thirty years ago, considerable numbers of Cranes
remained to nest in south-west Andalucia; but constant egging
by professional “collectors” has sadly reduced their numbers. In
some districts they have ceased to nest altogether while in others
where I can recall seeing over thirty pairs in the nesting season

110 The Common Crane

there are now hardly half a dozen to be found during the summer
months. In such circumstances it becomes almost a crime to rob
their nests.

In 1906 I was especially keen to find once again a Crane’s nest,
as I was anxious to obtain photographs of the nest and eggs for
the purposes of this book.

The very difficulties of the whole operation as | knew well
from past experiences gave additional zest to the undertaking.
The region where some few Cranes still nest comprises many square
miles of marshland covered with luxuriant reed-beds, and owing to
distances, topographical obstacles and the lack of accommodation
this district is decidedly difficult to reach and to explore thoroughly.
The whole of the lower lying lands are submerged by the winter
floods, and as these dry off vast areas remain which in some years
are still under water until the summer. It is due to this variety
of levels that the reeds in some places attain to a great height,
in others owing to the water draining off earlier in the spring, are
only 4 ft. or 5 ft. high and in others for the same reason again still
less. The particular ground selected by the Cranes is usually
where there is water from 9g in. to 18 in. in depth, and where the
reeds are not too high to prevent these wary birds when they stand
up on the nest from seeing the approach of anybody through or
over the tops of the reeds. How vast and apparently interminable
are these reed-beds can best be realized by those who have set
themselves the task of traversing them. At places they are so
luxuriant and strong in growth that it requires considerable exertion
to force one’s way along even for a few yards at a time.

It was on one of the early days of May that I rode out to a
part of the marshes where I had noticed several pairs of Cranes on
more than one occasion during the previous month. This portion
satisfied the conditions I have described as a breeding-spot for the
Crane, and, further, was of reasonable size, extending for over

A Crane's Sanctuary 111

2 miles from north to south and rather less from east to west, in all
some 2,500 acres, without a bush or stone or any other landmark
in its whole extent, and for this reason admirably adapted for a
nesting-place. Arrived at my destination, I hobbled my horse in
a grove of wild olives and lay down on a low hill, about 15 ft.
above the level of the marsh and proceeded to examine the ground
before me with my field-glasses, but was not a little vexed to see
the heads of two men above the reeds about a mile distant. Their
unwelcome presence of course made all bird-watching, for the
time at least, a farce, so I determined to go and find out what they
were in quest of, horrid visions of the bestial ‘ paid collector” and
his most accursed myrmidon the local sportsman passing through
my mind as I did so. Upon the two men detecting my advance
and imagining no doubt that I was a gwarda of sorts, they
separated and made off in different directions. A man on foot how-
ever has no chance against a Spanish horse bred in the marismas
which is semi-aquatic in its habits, and despite deep mud, clinging
reeds and much water it took but a short time to ride down
one of them. He turned out to be a man well known to me from
a village about 8 miles distant. He was carrying a gun and
hence his anxiety to avoid interviewing an apparent stranger. He
assured me he was merely egging and produced from a_ sack
a number of Coots’ eggs in proof of his statement; for all
eggs, including those of the Great and Little Bustards, Cranes,
Stone Curlews, Wild Ducks, Herons or Terns, are eaten indis-
criminately by the folk about here. Upon being pressed, he
extricated from the sack several Wild Ducks which he had shot
swimming about with their young broods, also some Coots and
Whiskered Terns; It was of course useless to point out the
enormity of his offence; he regretfully told me he had failed to
find any Cranes’ eggs which he assured me were very gordo and
excellent to eat, for how was a poor man on foot to see over the

112 The Common Crane

accursed reeds? If he only had a horse all would be well, for then
he could see what he was about.

Two days later, I paid a second visit to the Cranes’ stronghold,
but this time selected another point about two miles from my first
station and to the east of the marsh, the former being on the south
side of it. A careful reconnaissance of the great sea of waving
reeds shortly disclosed to me two pairs of Cranes, whose move-
ments I watched most carefully for nigh two hours without being
able to form any opinion as to their meaning beyond that one
pair had apparently some definite object in view whilst the other
seemed to be quite irrational in their methods and movements.

I was unable to revisit the place for some days and then
went to the olive grove whence I had commenced operations
on the first day. For a long time no Cranes were visible, but
other bird life was to be seen in abundance. Immediately in
front of me, and between my position and the edge of the marsh
was a sun-baked expanse of dried mud over which a colony
of Pratincoles (Glareola torqguata) kept wheeling, ever and again
coming up to mob me in protest of my invasion of their sanctuary.
In the shallows along the edge of the water some Squacco Herons
(Ardea rallozdes) in their glorious nuptial plumage were wading,
whilst beyond them the graceful Whiskered Terns eddied up
and down. The incessant querulous cries of the Pratincoles and
the sharp call of the Terns intermingled in an amazing confusion
of sound but its meaning was perfectly clear: Would I and my
horse and retriever kindly go somewhere—anywhere—but at any
rate gO away, at once or sooner if possible? After a long wait,
two Cranes arrived from the north and alighted in the marsh
nearly a mile and a half to my front. After much manceuvring
and changes of position they proceeded to walk through the reeds
southward. Presently one disappeared the other halting and post-
ing itself on sentry duty. It was not difficult to come to the

The Art of “ Marking ” 113

conclusion that these birds must have a nest and that the eggs
must be but slightly incubated or they would not have been absent
for so long.

After taking a most careful bearing of the spot where the
bird had become lost to view, not only on a grey stone nigh
two miles off on the far side of the marsh but on a rocky patch
in the sierra twenty miles beyond, I mounted my horse and
proceeded to ride the line. Upon descending into the marsh
and entering the reed-beds, I at once lost sight of my guiding
stone ahead. Luckily, the mark in the sierra stood me in good
stead and enabled me to keep to my alignment. And here I must
digress for a moment to explain a technical point of no small import

in this matter of ‘‘marking.” When a sportsman or naturalist
marks the position of a bird or other object, the first and
principal thing of course is to ensure that not only is a correct
alignment taken from the point of observation but that this align-
ment is carefully adhered to during the subsequent advance towards
the desired point. But this is only half the battle and provides for
direction only, the other essential factor for a correct solution of the
problem being that of the distance to be traversed to reach the
objective. This in the case of the sportsman is usually 30 to
50 yards or at most, with a wounded and dropping bird, 100
or 200 yards and at these short distances it is usually easy enough
to identify some tuft of rushes, bush or what-not. But in the
case of the Cranes the problem of distances was infinitely more
complex. To begin with, the distance was very great, so great
that save with a telescope it was impossible to see the birds at
all, since only their heads showed above the reeds, or to attempt
to identify the point they were at. Added to this, the vast extent
of reeds presented to the eye a sea of grey green, ever changing
in colour and shade according as the sunlight played upon its

wind-swept undulating surface. No matter how carefully one may
8

114 The Common Crane

have noted any particular portions of such an expanse through
one’s telescope, the moment one lowers the glass and tries to pick
up the same point by direct vision, the chances are twenty to
one that the eye becomes hopelessly confused and the result is
failure. Here however, fortune unexpectedly favoured me, for
scattered at intervals throughout the great marsh were small belts
of young bulrush, forming to the eye bands of slightly darker green.
By such adventitious aid I was enabled to locate approximately
the desired spot as being somewhat to the left of the fourth or
fifth patch of dark rushes. So far, so good. But the moment
I descended from my hill and entered the marsh the apparent
position of these dark patches underwent a complete change and
they seemed all to merge into one mass, and I had to trust to
a dead reckoning of my course, somewhat aided by the dark
rushes, but also somewhat complicated by them, for on entering
the reeds I found bulrush growing sparsely all over the place.
As I neared the spot I had marked, both Cranes suddenly rose
from points wide apart and after flying about a quarter of a mile
alighted together and watched my proceedings. As I was curious
to see what they would do if I approached them, I marked the spot
where I suspected the nest to be by planting my long iron-shod
garrocha in the mud and rode towards them. And now I was
witness of a spectacle for which I was not prepared. First
one and then the other of the great birds gave me a gratuitous
exhibition of what it was like to be a wounded Crane. No Lapwing
ever did the trick with such adroitness. It seemed almost dis-
courteous to disoblige them by ignoring their efforts, and I spurred
my horse on as if to overtake them.

It was quite touching to note the desperate earnestness with
which they suddenly acquired a broken leg or a stiff joint and
tumbled over (much as a boy does who having attached a stilt on
one leg, strives to walk), eventually having recourse to their wings

Simulating Disablement 115

to recover their equilibrium. Again as I drew nearer, they would
quickly develop some acute malady in one wing which caused them
to flap along through the water and reeds until my nearer approach
wrought a perfect cure and opening their grand wings, which
spread for over 7 ft., they sailed off to a safe distance, ready to
repeat the performance should I attempt to follow them.

I now returned to my bull-stick and picking up the old align-
ment worked along it until I came upon what was obviously an
unfinished Crane’s nest of the year, a great platform of reeds and
rushes, 5 ft. across, raised to the level of the water which was
here about 18 in. deep. Several well-defined ‘‘ Cranes’ paths” led
up to this nest. It did not require any profound bird-knowledge
to realize that this could not be the nest of the birds which had
shown so much anxiety at my presence, and I quickly concluded
that they must have eggs or possibly young not far off. Conse-
quently I made numerous casts on horseback in various directions
all about the place but without success and eventually returned
to my point of observation thoroughly discomfited and trying to
persuade myself that the Cranes had hatched off in the nest I
had found, which had since subsided and that their young were
skulking in the reeds.

After half an hour’s further watching the Cranes once again
returned to the suspected locality, whilst two other pairs conducted
independent manceuvres about half a mile on either side of them.
The most patient study of their movements however elicited
nothing, and I was compelled to ride homewards at sundown with
the feeling that I had been completely baffled.

The following day I once again returned to the attack and
proceeded to the hill to the east of the marsh, since I was well
assured of the accuracy of the alignment of the day before, and
wanted to obtain as clearly defined a bearing from another point.
Sure enough there were the Cranes feeding in an arroyo, or

116 The Common Crane

watercourse about half a mile to the north of the point where they
had given their acrobatic performance of the previous day. Pre-
sently they began to move south-westward and after a time one

NEST OF THE COMMON CRANE. (Photographed from the saddle.)

suddenly disappeared whilst the other took wing and alighted about
a quarter of a mile beyond and at once took up a position on
sentry duty. I felt convinced that the bird which had disappeared

Nest and Position of Eggs Bly,

had crouched in the reeds and run to its nest, and so allowing
some yards for this evolution I took most precise bearings of the
supposed spot and resolutely rode the line. After about three-
quarters of a mile of splashing through the reeds and water, the old
Crane rose some 40 yards right in front of me, and pressing for-
ward I came on the nest some 20 yards nearer. Glancing around
I found I was on the identical cross-bearing of the previous day.
How and why I failed to find the nest on that occasion it is hard
to say, for a short ride around brought me to the unfinished nest.
It is a good example of the difficulties attending the finding of
these huge nests despite years of practice, the aid of glasses and
other resources of civilization.

There lay the nest in the middle of a small pond of open water,
here only about 9 in. deep. It was merely a platform of reeds,
3 ft. 6 in. in diameter and raised 4 in. above the water-level. In
a slight hollow in the middle of the platform lay two huge eggs
of the usual type, very much elongated, and of a dull creamy
brown colour with rusty spots and blotches and faint brown under-
surface markings.

They lay some inches apart, pointing the same way and with
the larger ends inclined outwards. Wolley has recorded how in
a nest he found the eggs lay ‘“ with their longer diameters parallel,
and there was just room for a third egg to be placed between
them.” It is just possible that the Crane arranges its eggs in this
position in order to cover them more effectually during the process
of incubation. Most people know very well the colour of the eggs
of the Waterhen or Moorhen. These great eggs of the Crane have
a strong resemblance to some of the commonly met with varieties of
Moorhen’s eggs.

Of course the chief difficulty in the matter of photographing
the nest with the apparatus at my disposal (an ordinary hand
camera) was caused by the surrounding mass of waving reeds,

118 The Common Crane

NEST OF THE COMMON CRANE. (Photographer standing in water.)

which not only impeded the view but cast moving shadows
across the eggs; hence it was necessary to dismount and clear a

passage by bending down or cutting away the intervening reeds.

Retriever and Crane's Nest 119

Then after mounting again, by reining my horse round and taking
a snapshot, I was enabled to get a general view of the nest and
vast expanse of reeds beyond.

In the first picture given the low line of hills in the middle
distance surmounted by a few trees indicates the point of departure
whence I made my final advance on the nest, the outline of the
sierra beyond showing in the far distance. Having accomplished
this, | again dismounted and endeavoured to take a picture at closer
range; the perpetual movement of the reeds made this a trouble-
some matter, and being now much lower down naturally aggravated
the difficulties. I was, however, so far successful as to be able
to show the pool with the nest in the middle of it, my horizon
being now limited by the masses of waving reeds.

Lastly, I detached my tripod stand from the saddle and,
mounting my camera on it set to work to take photographs of
the eggs at closer quarters. It was whilst thus engaged that the
Crane’s eggs had a narrow escape from destruction. So absorbed
had I been in watching the movements of the birds and_ subse-
quently in riding their line and in photographing, that I had
entirely forgotten the existence of my faithful retriever, ‘‘ Sweep,”
who had not only followed me for hours across the marshes, but
for a considerable time had been forcing his way through the
dense reeds, often in water up to his shoulders, amid legions of
leeches.

It was whilst looking into the finder of my camera that |
suddenly became aware of a black object moving among the
adjacent reeds and glancing up, I was horrified to see the dog
scrambling into the big nest with the obvious determination of
obtaining a drier billet! A frantic shout, ‘‘ Drop!” caused the poor
beast to recoil and drop on his haunches on the half-submerged
portion of the nest where he sat shivering in the water in mute
protest at my forgetfulness. The camera being directed on the

120 The Common Crane

nest enabled me to place on record at one and the same time
his obedience and my own selfishness.

Subsequently I took photographs of the egys at 2 ft. and at
18 in. distance, but the size of the nest and the distance apart
of the eggs did not lend themselves to such a process. During the

RETRIEVER IN CRANE’S NEST.

exposure, a peculiarly vicious insect of the horse-fly family, which
had been pestering my horse for some time, alighted on one egg
and so immortalized itself.

In conclusion, I may say that I subsequently located the other

Photographing Cranes’ Nests 121

Cranes’ nests. One of them, belonging to the pair which had
caused me such perplexity by their evasive and_ indeterminate
movements upon my second visit to the marsh, had obviously been
robbed, and it was their nest which I came across on the occasion
of my third visit.

With regard to the third pair, unless their eggs were found and
eaten by my friend the predaceous local sportsman, after my

EGGS OF COMMON CRANE (photographed at 18 in.), showing relative position of two eggs,
with inclination of larger diameters. Size 4 in. X 2°5 in.

departure (when they must have been fairly hard set), I have every
hope and belief that they hatched off in safety.

It is illustrative of the vicissitudes of the wandering naturalist in
his researches that upon passing this locality the following year,
I found that owing to the lack of rainfall in the early spring after
an exceptionally dry winter the whole marsh was dry and that the
Cranes had shifted their nesting-place to another district. I had no
wish to disturb them in their new quarters and so left them to
carry out their domestic arrangements in peace.

122 The Common Crane

I have never had the good fortune to find the young of the
Crane. No doubt they are able to run very soon after being
hatched out, at any rate I have never seen the young in the nest
nor have | ever met with anybody who has. Wolley has described
finding the young in Finland some distance from their nest ; when
he saw them they were much about the size one would expect
newly hatched birds to be, judging from the size of the Crane’s egg.
Once and once only did I come across a Crane which unques-
tionably had young. I knew of a nest in a rather wet marsh
where the reeds were unusually dense and high and rode out to
try to see the young. The nest however was empty. As I circled
round the place on the chance of coming across the young, one of
the old birds actually rose within 5 ft. or 6 ft. of the horse of my
arrtero who was riding a few yards on my flank. I instantly went
to the spot but despite the most protracted search could make
nothing of it. Unfortunately, I had no retriever with me, else |
feel confident I should have found the young. That they were
skulking in the dense reeds and that we rode over them i have
not the slightest doubt for not only did the old bird’s behaviour
in allowing us thus to come right upon her show that she had
young but she subsequently settled close by and gave unmistak-
able signs by her anxiety that her young were not far off.

eee

i, a 6 an

II.—ACROSS THE PLAINS.

CHAP TER I.

A RIDE ACROSS THE VEG4.

The plains or vegas—The rivers in winter and summer—The wealth of flowers—
Spring-time on the vega—Herds of mares and cattle—The herdsmen—A
“bad cow ’—‘ Lagartijo’’—Bulls—A toro bravo—A chase and an escape
—Storks and Cranes—Little Ringed Plovers—Pratincoles-—Stone Curlews—
The Larks, Calandra, Crested and Short-toed—Fantail Warblers— Buff-
backed Egrets—Ocellated Lizards and Grass Snakes—Hatred of retriever
for these reptiles.

HE great alluvial plains of southern
Spain are tenanted by many species
of birds which are either resident
throughout the year or migrate
thither to nest. Certain lower por-
tions of the plains are annually sub-
merged during the winter months
and then become the resort of
thousands of wild geese and duck
of many descriptions driven south by
the stress of climate. As _ spring
approaches, the wild-fowl start on
their return journey northward and
as the flood waters subside the
Bustards and other normal occupants

of the plains who have been temporarily driven to seek drier ground

on the low undulating hills around, return to their accustomed
haunts.

124 A Ride across the Vega

Here and there, some of the lowest-lying ground remains under
water until the torrid heat of the August sun effectually dries it
up; the dense reeds are then cut by the inhabitants for thatching
their cottages or are exported to be made into bottle-casings.

These isolated pieces of water or /agunas so long as they last
form sanctuaries, not alone for many water-birds but for numerous

fish and reptiles.

A RIVER IN THE PLAINS: EVENING.

The plains are intersected by small rivers which, owing their
supply as they do to the rainfall in the distant sierras, are usually
full from the time of the autumnal rains until the spring. Every
heavy rainstorm causes them to flood bank-high and not seldom
to overflow. Since the waters when in flood are heavily charged
with suspended matter, which quickly settles whenever the current
is lessened, the effect of these continuous overflows is to make a
deposit of silt and mud along the top of the river banks, which
are by this means at places raised several feet higher than the

A Wealth of Flowers 125

plains through which the rivers run. Generally the river banks
are cut vertically, or nearly so, for some feet by the rapid current,
but at the bends sand spits are formed which afford good resting-
places for the wild-fowl in winter and likewise for various nesting
birds in summer. The rivers are of considerable depth, some of
the small ones even being from 8 to 1o ft. deep at many spots
and with few fords. These are of course well known to all the
arrieros or muleteers, since in the absence of bridges their con-
dition from day to day regulates all movement along the country
tracks. Rivers, streams and lagunas are alike full of barbel which
grow to some size. As the waters recede and the streams dry up,
the fish make for the lower reaches but these in turn become dry
and towards the end of a hot summer most of the smaller rivers
are reduced to a series of stagnant pools of putrid green water
which are literally alive with barbel and water-tortoises. What
becomes of these when the pools finally dry up is one of the
mysteries of southern Spain. The natives are convinced that both
fish and tortoises burrow into the damp soil and remain there until
the autumn rains. Certain is it that there is never any falling
off either in the numbers or size of the barbel and tortoises when
they reappear in the autumn.

These great levels of slightly undulating grass-grown plains are
known to the Spaniards as vegas and in the spring months their
appearance is very beautiful. The higher portions, not liable to
floods, are commonly covered with asphodel which often attains
a height of 3 ft. to 4 ft. and at places the handsome dark-leaved
Mediterranean squill rears its big blue-tufted head. These and the
White Iris blossom much earlier than do the majority of the plants.

To see the vega at its best, it should be visited in the month
of May when the vivid green of the herbage is almost blotted
out by the brilliancy of the masses of spring flowers. Nothing
is more striking to the eye than the lavish manner in which

126 A Ride across the Uega

Nature applies her colours in such districts. Riding across the
vega, at one time you may traverse acres of golden marigold,
perhaps half a mile to the right the land is pink for hundreds of
yards with a beautiful large madder or again, crimson with tre-foil,
whilst to the left, maybe, it is as white as snow with waving
camomile. As you leave the grasslands and traverse the lower
spurs of the fallows, whole hillsides are covered with bright
yellow mustard or big white daisies. Perhaps one of the most
remarkable effects is that produced by the small blue, yellow and
white convolvulus (Convolvulus tricolor) with which the ground is
carpeted so closely as to make the hillsides at a short distance
appear light cobalt blue. In addition to these great masses of
colour the whole plain abounds with other flowers which astonish
and delight the traveller. Large purple iris and the diminutive
paler-coloured one abound as does the crimson gladiolus and a
hundred other brilliant blossoms of all shades and colours.

Such is the country which it is my happy fate to traverse
whenever | ride out from my dwelling of a spring morning. The
plain is usually covered with herds of mares and cows with their
calves and, at certain places, young bulls. Unfortunately of late
years, vast numbers of pigs have been introduced and_ their
unceasing digging for tuberous roots has gone far to spoil entire
districts. The herdsmen in charge of the various animals remain
out with them in all weathers, night and day and I number
many old friends among them. Rarely it occurs that the men
who thus guard the cattle are injured by one of them. Guarding
semi-wild cattle is not altogether without its risks. As a rule, the
cows are more dangerous than the young bulls and when a
herdsman is damaged it is usually the act of a vaca mala,
or ‘‘vicious cow.” Only last year an old friend in charge of
some mares was suddenly attacked from behind by a cow and
badly tossed, alighting on his head. I was sent for to administer

Chased by a Goro Bravo 127

‘first aid,” a réle which constantly falls to me, and found the
poor old man with a nasty wound in the thigh caused by a horn
and with his head and face badly cut. Among these wild folk
nobody has the slightest sympathy for a sufferer on such occasions—
in fact, it is looked upon as a huge joke, and in this case the old
man was instantly dubbed ‘“ Zagartzjo,” the pet name of a famous
bull-fighter of the “seventies,” by which cognomen he has been
since known and his mishap is ever the source of much amusement.
Nowadays, the bulls destined for the ring are no longer bred in this
part of the country. Up to three and four years old the young bulls
are comparatively harmless, all the same it is best not to venture
among a herd, if on foot. But in every herd there are a few old
bulls of six or seven years and these should always be avoided
on principle, and in no case approached save on horseback.

To be chased by a bull on the open vega is a species of sport
which does not appeal to me. Many years ago when with
Harry Fergusson of my regiment we were crossing a plain, he
on foot and I on horseback and we noticed an old black bull
about a mile off watching us intently. At that time there were
toros bravos or bulls of the fighting strain in the district and
so we immediately altered our course and moved off, Fergusson
walking beside my horse. Presently the bull began to follow us,
at first at a walk and then at a trot. This was too much, so
taking up Fergusson behind me, I made for the nearest shelter,
the bull following us at a gallop. We were over a mile and
a half from an old stone drinking trough on the side of a
rocky hill and by the time we gained this point the bull was
uncomfortably close behind us. In fact, he followed us to the
foot of the hill and then, turning, trotted off. Our old Spanish
attendant, Juan Palo, an inveterate wag, told us subsequently,
in response to our inquiries as to why the bull had been so
ageressive, that the foros éravos particularly disliked English

128 A Ride across the Uega

officers as they thought they might take their favourite cows
away from them!

Riding across the vega, from time to time you see flocks of
Great Bustard feeding on the rich young grasses or catching
grasshoppers amid the thistles and herbage. White Storks are
dotted about the plain and now and again a pair of Cranes
may be seen among the waving reeds. Along the sandy banks
in the river beds beautiful Lesser Ringed Plovers (4gtalites
curonica) are running. These little birds after the manner of
their family make no nest but lay their three small sand-coloured
eggs, spotted with black, in a small cup-shaped depression in
the sand. At places where the receding winter floods have left
bare patches of dry mud, the Pratincoles are congregated, sitting
motionless until your horse is almost upon them when they rise
with shrill cries and mob the traveller, settling down again only
a few yards off, as he passes on.

At rare intervals in these alluvial plains there are small
, generally of disintegrated sandstone. Here amid
the loose scattered stones the Stone-Curlew (Gidzcnemus scolopax)

outcrops of rock

delight to nest, laying their two stone-coloured eggs, and hard
indeed are they to find. It is rarely worth the trouble to look
for their eggs unless the old birds are seen on at least two
occasions at the same spot, when it may be assumed that they
are nesting hard by.

The Grass Snake (77op:donotus natrix) attains to great size in
southern Spain; and on the vega I have often seen specimens 5 ft.
to 6 ft. in length and of proportionate girth. Sometimes when I
have dismounted in order to catch one of these larger reptiles they
have shown fight and upon being approached have raised them-
selves up as if to strike, but their bite is of course harmless. Even
more pugnacious are the Ocellated Lizards (Lacerta oce/lata, which,
when pursued and overtaken by a man either on horse or foot,

Grass Snakes and Ocellated Lizards 129

instantly come to bay and with jaws widely extended, showing a
cavernous pink-lined mouth and throat, front the assailant and
make a gallant spring at him as he closes on them. My retriever
‘“Sweep,” who, alas! succumbed this year, after four seasons of
malarial attacks acquired in the /agwnas, had a most intense hatred
for these big lizards and when following my horse across the plain
habitually chased and brought to bay those he came across. Having
done so, he would bark at them until he saw a chance of closing on
them when he would seize them and throw them high in the air
and many a severe bite did he receive when thus employed.
Often enough he would seize the unfortunate reptile by the tail
with the usual result of its owner quickly parting with it and
making good its escape. ‘“ Sweep,” who had fallen behind my
horse during this operation, would then gallop after me carrying
the writhing tail of the reptile in his mouth in triumph, sometimes
for long distances. Of snakes he had an equal hatred and killed
many, often causing me no little anxiety.

Among the smaller birds which abound on the vega in spring
is the handsome Calandra Lark (A/auda calandra), a fine bird with
a conspicuous black gorget. Both these and the Common Bunting
are very numerous. The pretty little Crested Lark (Galrita
cristata) is also abundant, its sweet flute-like call being constantly
heard. The smaller Short-toed Larks of both species, the ordinary
(A. brachydactyla) and the Betican (A. daetica), are also met with.
The minute Fantail Warbler (C7s¢zcoda cursitans) is constantly to
be seen and heard, its curious jerky flight and sharp staccato
call making it easy to recognize. This little bird makes one of
the most beautiful of nests of any of the European birds, pear-
shaped, with a small entrance at the neck, woven of thistle-down
and grassy fibres, and suspended, like a Reed-Warbler’s, between
the stems of long grass or standing corn. The little eggs are
either pure white or delicate blue speckled with rufous. It would

130 A Ride across the Vega

be easy to prolong this list indefinitely with the Pipits, Wagtails,
and numerous other denizens of the vega.

High above the great plain in the blue zenith, the Vultures
are to be seen circling, ever watchful for some defunct beast, and
now and again the sharp bark of the Eagle is heard as he calls
to his mate. Needless to say, the Harriers are ever with one,
incessantly quartering the plain and at intervals dropping into
the reeds in quest of prey and Kestrels are diligently seeking
the insects which are in such profusion.

As you ride past the herds of mares and cattle, the White
Egrets flutter off the backs of the beasts they are tending, whilst
others stalk round the recumbent animals, from time to time
making quick thrusts with their bright yellow bills at some
tempting object. Big Ocellated lizards, as well as smaller green
and brown ones, and snakes of all sizes which have been sunning
themselves, make off at speed on our approach. The air is full of
the hum of insects, and the liquid tinkle of a thousand concerros,
the big copper bells worn by mares and cattle alike, makes an
harmonious accompaniment to the hundred and one sounds of the
Andalucian spring-time.

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CHAPTER Il,
THE GREAT BUSTARD (Otis tarda),

Seen to perfection on the Spanish vegas—Change of quarters, summer and
winter—Question of migration—Local colonies or bandas—Remarkable white
appearance when flying—Habits during courtship—And after

Nesting-

places—Leaving nest—Wholesale taking of eggs—Number of eggs laid by
Great Bustard—A popular fallacy—Small size of eggs—Hatching out—
Great Bustard in barracks—A ‘steady old soldier” in charge—Deplorable
results !—Weight of Bustards—Abnormal weights in late spring—The gular
pouch—Extraordinarily powerful flight—A very silent bird
Great Bustard.

Eagle and

VEN the least imaginative of persons
though neither sportsman _ nor
naturalist must take an interest in the
Great Bustard, the largest of Euro-
pean game birds and one of the finest
feathered of all the fowls of the air.
A hundred years ago it was still to
be found in small numbers in parts
of England but it gradually died
out between 1830 and 1840; since
then it has only appeared as a rare
visitor. It has also been driven
from France by the constant en-

croachments on the wide open spaces
which are so necessary for its exist-
ence. In some parts of Germany it is yet found, whilst in south-
east Europe, especially in the valley of the Danube it is abundant.

132 The Great Bustard

But the nearest point to our islands where it still lives and is likely
to endure for many years to come is in Spain.

Numerous writers have described how this bird inhabits the
great corn-growing districts in the Peninsula, and what a splendid
sight they make. Much as the Great Bustard is to be admired
amid the young corn of early spring, to me, who have lived among
them for so many years, there is one sort of country and one
alone, which belongs to them and to which they belong, the grass-
grown and flower-strewn vegas or plains of Andalucia. To me
the sight of a Great Bustard in a cornfield, however admirable,
is a picture as unsatisfying as a red deer in a park, for in each
case bird and beast lacks complete separation from man and his
works; and without this separation its native wild beauty cannot
tell truly.

Many of these grass-grown plains of southern Spain are liable
to floods and in some places during the autumn and winter to
total submergence for months at a time. It is at such periods that
the Great Bustards desert the level country for the undulating hills
around, where they are practically undisturbed and but rarely
seen, since few people traverse these districts during the winter
months. English sportsmen in quest of wild-fowl or Snipe have
often asked me where the Great Bustards go to during the winter,
since they are so seldom to be met with. My own explanation is
that owing to the vast extent of ground which is suitable to their
habits and also owing to the difficulty of exploring the same during
the period of the year when the torrential rains occur, the Bustards
simply avoid observation. I am aware that this is somewhat of
a negative argument and in support of it I have only my own
experiences to draw from. These are briefly as follows. On the
occasions when I have ridden over the hills I describe during the
winter months, I have almost invariably come across small parties
of Great Bustard. With the approach of spring they suddenly

Summer and Winter Quarters i

oF)
ioe)

reappear in small flocks on the plains and are to be seen feeding
on the portions whence the water has recently retired and where
the young grasses and herbage are now vigorously sprouting.
Referring to my journals I see that this usually occurs about the
end of January or early in February.

Upon being disturbed at this time of the year they invariably
fly off to the adjacent low-lying hills where it is no easy matter to
follow them up and find them, as [ know from repeated experiences.

Two-thirds of these hills are under cultivation at a time, one-
third being laid fallow, and though the furrows turned by the
Spanish ploughman with his team of oxen are shallow, the extra-
ordinarily spongy nature of the soil, when the winter rains are on,
causes one’s horse to sink at places to its hocks and renders walk-
ing fer any length of time almost impossible either on plough land
or fallow. During the wet season in such districts it is no unusual
thing for communication to be cut off for days at a time between
small villages and isolated cortzyos or farmsteads and the world,
owing to the absence of roads and the awful condition of the
veredas or tracks and, as I have said before, there are thousands
and ten thousands of acres where Bustard could live for weeks and
escape observation, more especially from the English sportsman
who naturally enough rarely leaves the marshes and _ low-lying
ground,

The Spaniards declare that when the Great Bustards thus dis-
appear from their usual haunts they go ‘to the Moors.” This, by
the way, is the stock explanation of all that occurs, or has occurred,
in Spain which it is difficult to account for otherwise. Some
writers have asserted that the Great Bustard is unknown in
Morocco but this is incorrect ; although my own wanderings do
not extend more than 80 miles south of Tangier I have come
across small parties in the level country south of the Kus River,
between El] Kasr el Kebir and the Atlantic. Mr. Meade-Waldo,

134 The Great Bustard

who has vastly greater experience than have I of Morocco reports
seeing a good many Bustard in the spring months, including one
band of twenty-three. But it seems certain that at no time do the
numbers in Morocco in any degree approach those which are met
with in Andalucia.

Colonel Irby never noticed any migration of the Great Bustard
in southern Spain, whereas in the Crimea he saw large flocks
passing south during the autumn migration. My own view is
that like all so-called resident species in any country, they
shift their quarters from time to time and that these movements
are dependent on questions of food, general convenience and
nesting. But that the Spanish Bustard are a migratory species
in the same sense as the Crane and others I do not believe.

These shiftings of quarters may involve considerable flights.
Thus during the last eighteen years several Bustards have
appeared from time to time on the plain between the Palmones
River and the Guadarranque River near Gibraltar, which implied
that they had crossed the Sierra for at least twenty-five miles from
the nearest possible Bustard country. They have also been seen
crossing the Serrania of Ronda, some 60 miles from the plains
near Cadiz, but such flights do not necessarily imply a_ true
migration, but rather a change of ground.

It is, of course, no distance across the Straits of Gibraltar,
but it seems almost inconceivable that were there a migration
of the nature seen by Colonel Irby in the Crimea, neither he nor
others like myself who have been many years in the country
should have seen anything of it.

Bustards seem to group themselves into small colonies which
systematically attach themselves to certain definite districts, which
as a rule they do not leave for any considerable period. When
in the natural course of seeking their food they fly to outlying
places, sooner or later they return to their own piece of country.

A Magnificent Spectacle 35

I have had evidence of this extending over many years. Every one
of these flocks is known to me as well, as to those few of the
inhabitants who take any interest in such matters, by the name
of the district it comes from. Thus 2 miles south-west of where
I dwell there is a flock of thirteen birds known to us as La

banda de

seventeen and again 4 miles to the north, of another and yet

Again about 4 miles east I know of another of

another beyond. At times these éandas join up, and one is
afforded the splendid sight of several score of these magnifi-
cent birds together. This combined flock on 30 March 1876
numbered sixty-seven birds, and of recent years I have on several
occasions seen it at about the same strength and more than once
at seventy-four !

On the roof of my dwelling in Spain I have established a
look-out whither I often betake myself with telescope and _field-
glasses. About 1,200 yards from this spot is a slight rise in the
ground which is usually covered with rich young grasses a few
weeks before the lower portions of the plain afford much feeding.
In extent it is only some 4 or 5 acres, but on a fine spring
morning it is usual to see it tenanted by several Great Bustards ;
sometimes by both the local éandas of seventeen and _ thirteen
who unite there and, when disturbed, separate and work their way
back each to its own particular district.

To see the Great Bustard in all his glory he should be sought
in the months of April and May when the vega is covered with
spring flowers. At places there are great masses of thistles with
gorgeous heads whilst all around the silver-grey skeletons of last
year’s growth, calcined by the torrid sun of the summer, stand
up in stiff sparse clusters. These thistles, whilst affording cover
from view for the Bustards when taking their siesta at mid-day,
at times also lead to their undoing, since a few judiciously placed
often serve to conceal the position of the gunner lying prone

136 The Great Bustard

during the course of a Bustard drive. For those wary birds,
whom nothing can induce to fly over any sort of “hide” or
“blind,” will cross recklessly over scattered clumps of thistles
on the open plains.

On the wing the Great Bustard often appears to the eye
to be almost white, which causes surprise to those who see it
for the first time and whose knowledge of its colour is got
from stuffed specimens with closed wings. For despite the tints
of its lavender neck and the marvellous variegated colouring of
both back- and wing-coverts, in which almost every conceivable
shade of rich siennas, browns and russet reds barred with black
is presented; when the bird is on the wing, an entirely different
impression is produced. For then white is the prevailing colour,
both breast and under-parts are a pure white whilst the vast
expanse of wing, over 8 ft. across and broad in proportion as
becomes a game bird, is largely marked with white above and
is entirely white below. In fact, Great Bustards at a distance,
when on the wing are to the eye as white as a Gull.

Many writers have thrown a doubt upon their polygamous habits,
but to my mind nothing seems more manifest than that they never
pair in the true sense of the word. Every éanda I have seen
consists of a few old males, with a proportion of from double
to treble the number of females and no doubt young males.
When the eggs are first laid in the standing corn I have
occasionally flushed an old male in company with the females,
but as soon as the hens have settled down to incubate, they
seem to be entirely abandoned by the males which collect in
flocks and keep away from them altogether.

The habit of the old male Bustards, as the breeding season
approaches, of “showing off” to the females has been often
described. Their actions on such occasions in many ways
approach that of the domestic Turkey. But the Bustard, owing

Paroxysms of Courtship 137

to its peculiar colouring which makes it so hard to see at a distance
when at rest and so conspicuous when on the wing, when it sets
about its antics in one instant completely metamorphoses its
appearance. For, when one of these ‘‘ paroxysms of courtship”
comes upon it, the head and neck are thrown back and the tail
turned forward, whilst the wings are trailed and inverted and
every feather of the axillaries stands on end. The effect is in-
stantly to convert a hitherto brownish bird into a mass of snowy
white, double its natural size. Often when riding across the
plains have I suddenly detected the presence of a big éanxda of
these fine birds which had hitherto escaped my eye, owing to
one of them commencing its grotesque manceuvres and presenting
a large spot of white in the distance where before nothing was
visible. Another and yet another cock quickly respond to the
challenge until a whole party of males are engaged in these
absurd antics. Those who fail to follow my very inadequate
description are recommended to look at the case of Great Bustards
at South Kensington, where one is admirably set up in_ this
extraordinary attitude.

One of the most perplexing traits in the Bustard’s character
is that he by no means confines the period of these antics to the
season of courtship. Long after the females have settled down to
their eggs in the far distant corn-lands the males, congregated in
big flocks, will continue to indulge in their frenzied movements,
which, so far as I have ever been able to see, are purely games of
“bluff” and “swagger,” which never lead to more than a momen-
tary encounter—a sort of collision and “fend off” with another
bird, after which both turn about and continue their absurd move-
ments independently. When one watches such an encounter, one
can almost imagine one inverted old cock saying to another:
“You be off!” “I won't,” replies Number Two, ‘ What! you
wont?” thunders Number One, rustling up to him with creaking

138 The Great Bustard

primaries and a generally appalling appearance. ‘‘No!” says
Number Two, equally crackling all over and strutting around
ferociously. ‘Zhen stay where you are,’ remarks Number One,
wheeling about and adroitly evading the difficulties of the situation.

The favourite nesting-place of the Great Bustard is amid the
corn-lands, this is especially the case when the season is an early
one and the young barley or wheat is advanced enough in the
month of April to afford good cover. In backward seasons the
Bustards seem to prefer the bean-fields, which, although not so high
as the young corn, are of thicker growth and give better protection
to the hen bird when sitting on her eggs. The great reed-grown
plains which have been submerged in winter also offer suitable places
for them to nest and I have also found nests on the open grass-
lands at places where a few dead thistles and some coarse herbage
served to give shelter to the old bird. On the fallows, especially
when covered with mustard or any other rank weed, nests may at
times be seen. The way in which a female Great Bustard will
slip away from her eggs and run for some distance before taking
flight without being detected by the sharpest of observers is ever
a marvel. When the young corn is 2 ft. or so in height, one
can realize the possibilities of such a manceuvre, but among still
younger corn or scattered beans not a foot above the ground
these great birds are equally expert in not divulging the position of
their eggs.

The reverse proceeding is adopted when they return to their
eggs, for then they alight a long distance off and somehow or other
manage to reach their nest unseen, and despite many hours of
watching with field-glass and telescope I have never yet succeeded
in actually fixing the precise situation of a nest right away, and it
has required a most diligent search before I could find one.

Nest proper there is none, the eggs being deposited on the
bare ground; at times, especially when they are amid barley or

Favorite Nesting Places 139

wheat, a few dried stalks may by chance be pressed down and
form a sort of apology for a nest, but this seems to be a mere matter
of chance.

NEST OF GREAT BUSTARD IN BEAN-FIELD.

How any Bustards’ nests escape being robbed is a wonder to

me. It is the custom in Spain for the farm labourers to form long

140 The Great Bustard

lines of twenty to thirty men armed with hoes, with which they
traverse systematically every yard of the young standing corn in
order to eradicate the rapidly growing weeds which would otherwise
choke the corn as it is ripened. These parties are unfortunately
always at work in the months of March and April and, consequently,
come upon many nests and all fresh Bustards eggs are invariably
taken by them to eat. Those Bustards which resort to the bean-
fields are even worse off, for when the beans are pulled (about the
first week in May) every nest is inevitably found and even if not
taken the birds desert the eggs owing to the destruction of all cover
around them.

Be it as it may, possibly owing to the immunity which those
birds enjoy which wisely resort to the reeds, fallows, and grass-
lands to nest, the numbers of these splendid birds in South-Western
Andalucia, judging from my own observations, have not decreased
during the last thirty years. It would, indeed, be, from the view
of the bird lover, almost a European disaster if they were to
die out.

It is well known to all interested in bird-life that when once
a “fact”? regarding natural history has been duly recorded, it takes
a long time to disprove it, successive authorities being content
to quote from one another without seeking for further information.
Among such is the generally accepted statement regarding the
number of eggs laid by the Great Bustard which has been recorded
as two from time immemorial with the explanation that when four
egos are found in a nest ‘no doubt two females have laid” in it.
In consequence when I first saw a nest with four eggs I duly noted
the fact and entered the usual stock explanation in my diary.
By good chance my notes some years later were read by the late
Lord Lilford, undoubtedly one of the best authorities on the birds
of the Spanish Peninsula, who very kindly pencilled across the
page: “ The Great Bustard often lays four and rarely five eggs. L.”

Number of Eggs Laid 141

Some years later I met with a second nest with four eggs as

recorded by Colonel Irby, but the old fable as to two eggs only
died hard and has been repeated in the most recent books.

After Colonel Irby’s book appeared I on several occasions found
Bustards’ nests with three eggs, not four, sometimes considerably
incubated but it was not until last year that after a long interval
I chanced to be among the Bustards at the right time. In May,
1907, in one beanfield I came across no fewer than four nests
containing respectively four, three, three, and two eggs. The beans
were being harvested and the country folk, as usual, were taking
every Bustard’s egg that was fit to eat. At my request they left
these nests for me to see. The set of four were somewhat
incubated, as were one of the sets of three, the remainder being
quite fresh. The photograph here given is of a nest which con-
tained three eggs. Unluckily my horse trod upon one as I came
upon the nest.

But what is absolutely conclusive as to Bustards laying at any
rate three eggs is that out of a variety of nests with three egys |
have from time to time inspected, not only has the ground colour
and general tints and distribution of markings of the eggs forming
each particular set been alike but the ¢éexture (if I may use the
word) of the surface of the eggs has been recognizable almost at a
glance by anyone who had made eggs a study. In other words,
it has been perfectly simple to pick out the eggs belonging to a

series of sets and to place them in their own proper groups. In

g
the case in point I had marked in pencil on each separate set of four,
three, three and two, and then got a friend to “shuffle” the twelve
eggs and place them with the marks downwards, after which I pro-
ceeded to pick out the various sets without the slightest trouble.
The set of four which I found in 1907 were of peculiar interest
since three out of the four had their shells covered with small

excrescences. In addition to this these three were exactly alike

142 The Great Bustard

in size, shape and markings. The fourth egg was less granulated
and was somewhat larger and more elongated and was also marked
more distinctly.

That the three were laid by the same bird is beyond a doubt,
whilst the fourth, although thus varying as described, had the
unmistakable ‘family ” similarity to the others which would have
induced any skilled oologist to class it with them. I am quite
content however with the unmistakable proof of the three eggs
having been laid by one bird, for if three, why not four and what
becomes of the story of the Great Bustard only laying two eggs?
Of the two sets of three, one had the usual ofaguwe greenish brown
ground colour with exactly similar markings in each case, whilst
the other set had the far rarer clear greenish brown ground colour
with much brighter blotches of burnt umber and purplish under-
surface markings.

My conclusion, based on many years’ experience, is that Great
Bustards commonly lay three or four eggs, but in some instances
they only lay two, though in others even five eggs.

The remarkably small size of Great Bustards’ eggs has surprised
many and is directly in opposition to Hewitson’s theory that those
birds which run from the moment of being hatched lay larger eggs
than do others whose young are hatched out in a helpless state.
I have often seen Great Bustards’ eggs which were very little
larger than a Curlew’s, yet the first bird weighs ten to fifteen times
as much as the second and in both cases the young run from
the egg.

Young Bustards, as is well known, like young Plovers, Turkeys
or chickens, run from the egg. On one occasion, now many years
ago, my brother officer, Harry Fergusson, found a Great Bustard’s
nest with four eggs; two of these were blown and were found to
be fairly fresh, the other two we placed under a hen and installed her
in the corner of his one room in barracks. Here she sat steadily

Hatching out a Great Bustard 143

e ]

and our hopes and fears were so far realized that, after a week,
careful examination showed that the eggs had not suffered from
the forty mile journey on horseback, and were ‘‘set.” After
twenty days, one eventful morning a faint cheep was heard
from the box and to our great joy we found a young Bustard
had commenced to chip the shell and was in a fair way to release
itself,

EGGS OF GREAT BUSTARD. (Size 3°3 in. x 2°1 in.)

We passed that forenoon in intense anxiety, being reassured
from time to time by a more cheerful cheep. In the afternoon
we both had to go out, but as a matter of precaution installed a
servant, one of the type known as a ‘steady old soldier ” of
the long-service days, to mount guard over our precious charge.
To our horror, on our return we found our old soldier diligently
at work with a piece of stick removing the shell from one of
the eggs, while alongside of him lay a mass of broken egg-shell
and a melancholy-looking and extremely small Great Bustard,
which he had already extracted from the first egg.

144 The Great Bustard

It is hardly necessary to say that the unhappy chick on the
floor quickly succumbed to the maltreatment it had received ;
the second one, despite several injuries from prods with the stick,
survived for four days. It was a weird-looking little creature,
an atom of down with a big head and long legs, and had a
most plaintive and resonant call, out of all proportion to its diminu-
tive body. During its brief existence it fed well and ran about
at extraordinary speed around the barrack-room, taking cover
amid the rows of boots arranged along the wall.

The weight of a Bustard is a subject of which very varied

accounts have been written. Apparently the unfortunate stragglers

Ss
which have from time to time visited England and been promptly
slain must have been very young birds. Yarrell records males
of only 16 lb. and females of 9 lb. to 10 |lb., whereas the males in
Spain commonly weigh between 20 Ib. and 30 Ib. and the females
12 lb. to 18 lb. Professor Newton mentions 22 lb. to 32 Ib.
as the average weight of European Bustards. The remarkable
variations of weight in birds shot out of the same flocks and in
the same localities lead me to believe that Bustards take very
much longer to reach maturity than is popularly imagined. Again,
they seem to vary enormously in weight according to the season
of the year. Out of a number of Bustards | have weighed and
examined, those killed in the winter months have averaged only
about two-thirds the weight of birds killed in March and April.
The smallest Great Bustard I ever saw killed was a young female
in the month of February, and which weighed only 12 lb. This
bird must have been at least 9 months old.

Of course not many Great Bustards are shot by Englishmen
in April, and then only, as a rule, birds required for skinning,
for at this time they are in their most splendid plumage. The
old males at this time have their necks enormously distended
whilst the coloration of the feathers on either side of it is of

Weights of Great Bustard 145

extraordinary richness, the delicate lavender grey of the head
and throat forming a beautiful contrast to the rich russet gorget
below which in some birds almost approaches a vinous red.
It is at this period that the birds seem to attain their maximum
weight. Six old male birds shot by a party of three guns, of
which I was one, in the month of April, averaged over 34 lb. each,
the heaviest being 37 lb.; no doubt the contents of the crops
accounted for some of this great weight. All the same, judging
from subsequent experiences it is my belief that these birds would
have scaled very much less had they been shot a month earlier.
Certain is it that during the months of March and April the
amount of food suitable for Bustards, whether it be young herbage
or insects, increases day by day to a marvellous extent, as all
those who know Spain in spring-time can testify. The crops of
these birds were full of fine grasses and green herbage, having
the appearance of spinach in its mashed condition. They also
contained big grasshoppers and beetles of various sorts. The
mysterious gular pouch, only present in adult males, having its
entrance below the tongue, the object of which has baffled so
many scientific naturalists, is at this time of the year at its
greatest distension and thickly encased in fat. The huge swelled
neck is firm to the touch although extremely pliable, and must
add no inconsiderable amount to the total weight of the bird.
I regret now that I have never weighed the head and neck of
an old male bird shot in April and also one killed during the
winter months, for I feel sure that the difference between the
two would be very great. The story that the gular pouch was
an adaptation of Nature to carry a water-supply for the female
and young is of course not true.

The flight of the Great Bustard is extraordinarily quick and
without effort. Before they take wing they simply walk for a few
and, opening their snowy white wings,

paces—no attempt at a run
Io

146 The Great Bustard

flap away in what appears to be a most leisurely manner. Save
when there is a strong wind, or when coming off higher ground,
they rarely fly more than 30 yards above the ground and hence,
when they take the right direction, afford good driving shots.
Nothing, however, is more deceptive than the pace they fly at,
for owing to the steady beats of their immense pinions, some 8 ft.
across, they seem to the eye to be moving slowly ; but they are not.

AFTER A GREAT BUSTARD DRIVE.

It has fallen to my lot to organize many Bustard drives
and despite the fact that I invariably caution every sportsman
who has not seen them before to shoot well forward, it is a
remarkable fact that no bird is oftener or more easily missed.
This is the experience of everybody I have ever met. To
appreciate the extraordinary speed they travel at it is necessary
to have a bird pass close over one. More than once, when
lying absolutely prone on my face amid a_ few dead thistles,
after a long wait for the drive to come off, a Great Bustard

Encounter between Eagle and Great Bustard 147

has passed only a few yards over my lair, at times coming from
behind or from some unexpected quarter whilst all one’s energies
were concentrated in the direction whence the driven birds were
expected. On such occasions before one can alter one’s position
and rise to shoot, it has passed out of shot! Unlike so many
other birds—Wild Geese, for example —which obligingly advertise
their intentions when being driven by their clamourings, Great
Bustards are absolutely silent both when feeding or when on the
wing. True, their wings make some noise but not enough to
give warning of their approach. A wounded Bustard will show
fight and at such times will hiss and utter a snorting sound,
something between a short cough and the traditional ‘‘ Ugh!” of

the Redskin. On one occasion only have I ever heard a Bustard
give vent to any cry and that was when it was attacked by
an Eagle, as [ shall shortly describe. Owing to the velocity of
their flight and the great weight of their bodies, it not uncommonly
happens that a Great Bustard if flying at any height when shot,
on striking the ground, bursts itself and in most instances a mass
of feathers is knocked out by the impact of the falling bird.

One of the most memorable sights I ever witnessed when
amongst the Bustards was in the spring of 1878. We were
posted for a drive, and the great birds, as so often happens,
refused to be driven and elected to swing in their flight and
passed clear of our line of guns. At this moment a White-
shouldered Eagle (Aguila adalberti), which had been sailing in
great circles high over the plain, suddenly descended and with
a falcon-like stoop struck one of the Bustards in the flock, knock-
ing out a cloud of feathers. The Bustard gave vent to a series
of loud squawking cries and tumbling over for some 20 or 30
yards struck the ground violently. Recovering itself, it ran for
some yards and eventually took wing and followed the rest of
the flock. The Eagle did not attempt to follow up its advantage

148 The Great Bustard

and sailed away, apparently entirely unconcerned. Arrived at the
spot below where the Great Bustard had first been struck, Fer-
gusson and I found a number of the rich russet and black barred
feathers which adorn the shoulders and upper part of the back of
the Bustard, also a short way beyond was a mass of white feathers
from the breast and lower parts which had been knocked out by
the impact of its 30-lb. weight as it struck the ground.

It is hardly necessary to say that the Eagle probably had no
idea of attempting to kill the Bustard and that he struck it out
of the sheer exuberance of its feelings. A very similar spirit is
at times shown by Peregrine Falcons, which in pure wantonness
will stoop and strike some luckless Gull which chances to
come across their path when they are returning to their nest on
some sea-cliff.

‘(udiy) 2.4727 $2770

[GRINS M Eh Sie

42
T

149

CHAPTER III.
THE LITTLE BUSTARD (Otis tetrax).

Most difficult birds to get near—Impossibility of driving them—Beautiful
plumage—Peculiar sound produced by wings—Inconspicuous when on
ground—General wildness—Methods of approaching them—Nesting habits—
Difficulty of finding nest—Cunning of old bird—Curious cry when alarmed.

N its full nuptial plumage, the male
of this species is to my mind the
most beautiful of game-birds found
in Europe. Itis extremely abundant
on the low undulating hills and grass-
grown plains of south-west Anda-
lucia, but owing to its peculiar habits
of flight is very rarely shot by the
sportsman. For, when alarmed it
almost invariably seeks safety by
rising rapidly to a great height far out
of shot before making off. For this
reason save on rare occasions it is

impossible to drive Little Bustard.

It is a common sight to see flocks of these birds, varying from
a few dozen to over a hundred, manceuvring high in the air, some-
what after the manner of Golden Plover, often at such an altitude
as hardly to be identified were it not that they had been watched
previously.

150 The Little Bustard

Like the Great Bustard, they appear very white when on the
wing, only even more so. For in their immature plumage, as well
as in their winter dress, both sexes have the breast as well as the
under parts pure white. This general whiteness of appearance is
intensified by the primaries and all the secondaries being white as
well as the under surface of the wings. The adult male assumes
the truly beautiful black-and-white gorget and delicate lavender-
coloured throat only upon the approach of the breeding season
in March, losing it again in August.

Their flight is effected by extremely rapid beats of the wing,
noticeable even at great distances, owing to the flashing of the
sunlight on the white portions. The noise produced by their quick
motion is one which once heard can never be forgotten and can be
likened to a quick sibilant sound of ‘‘ see-see-see-see,” suggestive of
that produced by the steam of a railway engine as it gathers way.
Probably the Spanish name for this bird of Szsoz (pronounced
‘“see-sone ”) is derived from this peculiarity as well as the Moorish
name of Szrk-Szrk.

The general appearance of these birds when on the ground, with
wings closed, is very inconspicuous, so much so that it has been
stated that they are rarely seen on the ground.

Close to my dwelling in Spain are many hundreds of acres
covered with asphodel and it is no uncommon sight to see the Little
Bustard run out of this and across the patches of open ground.
Again I have often watched a party of twenty or thirty feeding
on a grassy hill-side or amid the asphodel not 200 yards distant
and I have now and again, by making a wide detour followed by a
rapid advance, under cover of the brow of a low hill, closed to
within shot of them.

It is only on such ground that it is possible now and again to
out-manceuvre them, on the open plain they are as impossible to
stalk as they are to drive.

Methods of Approaching Them 151

Single birds, and more rarely pairs, are sometimes more
approachable, and if disturbed where there is cover will often only
fly a few hundred yards and pitch again. When this happens |
have killed them by walking quickly towards the spot, allowing
20 yards or so for their habit of running after alighting and the
instant they rise firing at them with heavy shot, No. 3 for choice.
By this means, they can at times be cut down at long distances
and they are well worth the trouble and chances of failure.

Unlike the Great Bustard, they are greatly addicted to running
and it is a common experience of those who attempt to drive them
to see them suddenly take wing several hundreds of yards from the
place where they had been marked down. Once, when posted for
a drive and with all my energies concentrated on the spot to my
front, whence I momentarily expected a flock of some fifty to rise,
I had the mortifying experience of hearing them rise close behind
me, after having run with great swiftness under cover of the
asphodel between me and the next gun. Small wonder is it, then,
that with such perplexing habits very few are ever shot.

Young birds and females have the head, neck, back and wing-
coverts of rich shades of brown, spotted and marked with dark
browns and black, somewhat resembling Great Bustards. The
adult male’s plumage is of a more delicate shade of brown, closely
pencilled or vermiculated with the same tints, this plumage he
retains in winter.

Now and again, during the winter months, when lying concealed
waiting for duck or geese, I have had a flock of Little Bustards,
in their usual dense formation, swirl past me within a few yards.
So sudden has been their appearance and rapid their flight that
I have never yet been able to do full justice to such an opportunity.
Again, during the hottest time of the summer, single birds will at
times lie close; I have also killed them at such a season late in
the afternoon when they flight into the marshes to drink.

152 The Little Bustard

It is interesting to note that I found these cunning birds,
although wild round Tangier, much more approachable three or
four days’ journey south of that district, sometimes rising within
shot. No doubt this is due to their being much less molested in
that wild country.

Few nests are more difficult to find than are Little Bustards’,

NEST AND EGGS OF LITTLE BUSTARD.

especially when they are amid the rank herbage on the fallow lands
or the asphodel, when they are as well concealed as a Partridge’s or
Quail’s. They are almost equally baffling when on the plains among
the thousands of acres of waving reeds, 2 ft. or 3 ft. in height, which
permit of the old bird running for an indefinite distance from the
nest before taking wing. The same remark applies to those placed
amongst the standing corn.

The nest varies much in its size and construction, being at

Nesting Habits 153

times a well-compacted mass of dried grasses and herbage and in
others little more than a chance collection of débris. Where a nest
is well concealed, the female will sit very close and not betray its
situation until almost trodden upon, whereas in more exposed
situations she usually slips off and, crouching, runs some distance
before taking wing.

The nest here shown was amid a dense growth of coarse
herbage, in which ox-eye daisies and dandelions predominated.
The bird only left when I was within 2 ft. of her and in her scuffle
and alarm drove a claw through one of the eggs. To get a photo-
graph of this nest, we had to cut a lane towards it and clear away
much of the surrounding herbage. This nest was only a slight
depression measuring 8 in. across and was lined with grasses and
herbs pressed down around it. The two eggs it contained were
of a dull-coloured sage green like immense olives; no doubt more
would have been laid. They were quite abnormal in colouring, for
one of the great peculiarities of the eggs of the Little Bustard is
their remarkably smooth and brightly polished surface. I have
eggs over thirty years old which still retain this lustre. The
normal colouring is a brilliant olive green sometimes almost plain
but generally clouded with brown, chiefly at the larger end. Four
is the full complement laid, but I have known of nests with three
eggs and some in which only two eggs were laid.

The day I found this nest with two eggs was dull and wet with
heavy gusts of wind, thoroughly unsuited for photographing such
a subject. It was 18 May, and by a remarkable chance, eminently
characteristic of the ups and downs of birdsnesting, a few hours
later on the very same day, I came across a second nest about
3 miles from the first one. It would be hard to imagine a greater
contrast than it presented, for it was on a bare and open hillside,
fallow ground with practically no cover on it save that afforded by
some scattered patches of rank herbage. The nest was constructed

154 The Little Bustard

in one of these patches and was quite open to view to any passer-by
as can be seen from the picture. The cup of the nest was much
deeper and better finished than the cup of the first one being well

EGGS OF LESSER BUSTARD. (Size I'9 in. X I°5 in.)

lined with grasses. It contained four richly coloured and_ shiny
eggs probably laid about 7 to 11 May, judging from the state of
incubation. The adroitness of the Little Bustard is shown by the
fact that despite the open nature of the ground around this nest

Cunning in Leaving Nest 155

and of my keeping a sharp look out, we never saw her leave it
and she took wing from a point just 23 yards (measured) from one
side of it. I imagine she saw us when a long way off and stepping
off the nest ran out to a flank and crouched, with the distinct
purpose (in the event of her being forced to take wing, as actually
occurred) of misleading us as to the position of her nest.

When alarmed, as for example, when suddenly disturbed from
off its nest, it utters a loud guttural rattling cry, somewhat similar to

that of a grouse calling in early morning and even more like that

oOo
g
given by the Bustard which we came across on the veldt between
the Orange and the Modder Rivers during the eventful days of

November, 1899.

156

IV..—-THROUGH THE WOODLANDS.

CHAP Tike I:
A DAY IN THE CORK WOODS.

Great variety of birds met with—Winter residents—Some tardy migrants—The
Warblers: Cetti’s, Bonelli’s, Melodious Willow, Western Orphean, Western
Rufous and Nightingale—Blackbirds—Serin Finches—Woodchat Shrikes—
Golden Orioles—Protective colouring of Orioles—Artistic nests—Difficult of
access—Climbing a tree-top—Scops and Little Owls—Tree-tapping and its
results—Hoopoes—Bee-eaters—Their subterranean nests—How to reach
them —Cork-oak trees—Game preserving in Spain—Value of the Raptores
as assistants—Predacious reptiles and four-footed marauders.

N Spain, where the naturalist in the
woodlands meets with the great tree-
nesting species I describe in this
book, such as the White-shouldered
Eagle and Black Vulture, as well as
the many lesser Eagles, the Kites,
Hawks and Ravens, he is almost
inclined to overlook the host of
smaller and less conspicuous birds
which make the trees and under-
growth their home during the breed-

ing season. The Warblers alone,
though abundant, and heard on

every side, are so elusive in their habits and cunning in their
choice of nesting-places as to make their separate study and the
finding of their nests the work of a lifetime.

GOSHAWK

Among the Warblers 7

During the winter months the woods are more or less deserted,
the species most frequently seen being the Common Buzzard, which
winters in these latitudes, and sundry residents, such as the Raven
and Jay, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Great Titmouse, Chaffinch,
Goldfinch and Serin Finch. But as spring approaches all is
changed. Owing to the temperate nature of the climate and
warmth of the sun, even in winter certain migratory species, such
as the Common Swallow, never entirely leave the country, and no
doubt for the same reasons some of the lessers Warblers likewise
linger there. Those acquainted with the distinctive calls of these
minute birds will hear some of them even during the depths of
winter, when, according to popularly accepted ideas, they should
be, with the rest of their class, many hundreds of miles south of
the Straits. Amongst the smallest birds is Cetti’s Warbler (Ce¢éza
cettt). It has a loud and penetrating cry, which, when once
learnt, is never forgotten. These little birds delight in the cane-
brake and brambles which cover every moist spot, amid which
they make a most beautiful little cup-shaped nest, delicately woven
of fibres, hair and wool for their rich rose-madder-coloured eggs,
quite the reddest of any small eggs I know.

In the glades of the lower-lying parts of the Cork Woods near
Gibraltar there are deep sofos, or swamps, in fact miniature
lagunas, the placid surface of which in early spring is white with
the flowers of the water ranunculus. It is in such secluded spots
that Cetti’s and other Warblers delight. In the masses of golden
cytisus around these swamps another minute bird, Bonelli’s
Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelliz), constructs its dome-shaped nest and
deposits its small spotted eggs. These nests much resemble those
of our Common Wren. It is very probable that this little bird,
like the Chiff-Chaff, Wood and Willow Warblers, would nest on
the ground were it not for the snakes and lizards, to avoid which
it resorts to the fragile branches of the cytisus. Unfortunately,

158 A Day in the Cork Woods

these delicate shrubs offer small resistance to either man or beast
who may wish to penetrate them; hence, on several occasions, I
have known of nests of Bonelli’s Warbler which have been
destroyed by passing cattle as they forced their way through the
undergrowth in search of pasture.

In the closer-growing bushes along the edge of the streams a
beautiful little Warbler, one of the Melodious Willow Warbler group,
known as //yfolais polyglotta, from its rich and varied song, also
nests. A widely distributed species is the Western Orphean
Warbler (Sylva orphea), which builds a cup-shaped nest on the
branches of the smaller cork trees about 8 to 10 ft. above the
ground, and lays eggs closely resembling those of our Garden
Warbler. Needless to say that in Andalucia, from the first week in
April and onward, the voice of the Nightingale is heard from every
clump of brambles or jungle-covered marsh. All the nests I have
come across have been invariably placed in bushes some little
height above the ground and not on the ground as in England.
Probably here again the birds endeavour by such means to avoid
the predatory reptiles which are so abundant.

One of the most frequently seen among the spring arrivals is
the bright-coloured Western Rufous Warbler (4édon galactodes).
They are particularly partial to the big aloe hedges which at
many places skirt the patches of cultivation and by their lively
actions and conspicuous plumage attract the eye far more than
do any of the other Warblers. In many ways they resemble the
Nightingale, but are larger and far brighter coloured and, as they
flit from bush to bush, erect and expand their tails, which are
rufous in the centre and have the outer feathers white, barred
with black at the end. This peculiar habit induced Colonel Irby
to style these birds the ‘ Cock-tail Warbler” and a very descrip-
tive name it is.

The Common Blackbird swarms in southern Spain, and nests

Golden Orioles and Spring Foliage 159

in the dense lentiscus or wild olive trees scattered through the
cork forests. Curiously enough they seem never to lay more
than three eggs in place of the four or five usually found in nests
in England. I mention this because I have never seen or heard
of a nest with more than three eggs.

Among the upper branches of the cork-oak trees, the Serin
Finch (/ringilla serinus) nests, a sort of diminutive wild Canary,
its weak sibilant song being heard on all sides.

One of the commonest of the woodland birds is the Woodchat
Shrike (Lanzus rufus), which nests in great numbers in the olive
and smaller cork-oak trees. They are handsome birds, particularly
the males, and on their first arrival are very noticeable as they
sit bolt upright with their white breasts showing conspicuously.
Like other Shrikes they lay two distinctly differently coloured sets
of eggs, one being of warm stone-coloured ground and the other
pale green, both alike being much spotted at the larger end.

Among the spring arrivals, the Golden Oriole (Orzolus galbula)
is conspicuous by reason both of the splendid plumage of the male
and his melodious whistling call which once heard can never be
forgotten. Amid the cork forests where these birds, in common
with other migrants, find a temporary resting-place on their first
arrival from southern latitudes, there are numerous grass-grown
glades adjoining the so¢fos or swampy portions. Along such
places both ash and Spanish oak are commonly to be met with,
which at the time of the arrival of the Orioles in the month of
April are clad in the brilliant green foliage of early spring. These
trees seem to offer peculiar attraction to Orioles and often have
I endeavoured to detect these birds as they sat embowered among
the green leaves, uttering their tuneful calls. In the brilliant
sunshine the high lights and dark shadows cast on the leaves so
exactly tone both with the yellow and black of the males and the
green and dark brown of the females as to make it a hard task

160 A Day in the Cork Woods

to pick them out even with the most powerful glass. When
alarmed, the Orioles, upon quitting such a natural sanctuary almost
invariably thread their way with undulating flight to a similar tree,
passing by those such as cork-oaks and olives which are of more
sombre tint. I have repeatedly watched this for many years past,
and am convinced it is no mere chance but a regular habit and
it may be taken as an axiom that if Orioles are heard to be calling
on a wooded hillside it is almost a certainty that they will be found
perched in the most vividly-foliaged trees in the neighbourhood.
A certain number remain to nest in southern Andalucia and all
the nests | have seen have been suspended to the branches of the
Spanish oak, usually towards the extremity of some pendent bough.

These nests are beautifully constructed of fine mosses,
lichens and fibrous roots woven around the twigs and lined with
horsehair and wool. The eggs are white, delicately spotted and
blotched with purple. In 1906 I found a nest among the smaller
branches near the summit of an oak, about 4o ft. up, and ascended
the tree. When still some 12 ft. below the nest, it became clear that
the branches would not support my weight. I was most anxious
to take the eggs and so set to work to get at this seemingly
inaccessible nest. By climbing up an adjacent and somewhat
stouter branch which shot upwards for a few feet, I reached a
point whence I was able to pass the end of my silk rope
round a second branch near the one supporting the Orioles’
nest. I then extemporized a tackle and by its aid hauled the
two boughs together, making them fast with the end of my /ya,
or sash. I now used the two branches as a second point of support
and ascending them yet higher, got my line once again round
another branch, and hauling it in, also made it fast to the other
two. By this means I eventually reached a point on the level of
the nest whence I was able to pass the end of my silk rope
round the branch containing my prize and, by hauling it in to

Hoopoes and Scops Owls 161

my somewhat precarious perch, bring it within my grasp. It
was an interesting bit of work, and afforded a good refutation
of the reputed inaccessibility of nests of the Orioles thus placed
amid the smaller branches of high trees. From my experience
on this and other occasions, I believe that, given sufficient light
rope and ordinary skill at climbing and using ropes, no nest of
this description is safe from the determined birdsnester.

Among the nesters in the hollow cork-oaks and alders are the
Great Spotted Woodpecker, the beautiful Hoopoes (Upupa epops),
and the Scops and Little Owls (Scops g2u and Carine noctua).

I know of no more elusive birds than these dwellers in old
trees. Many years ago Colonel Irby found several nests of the
Scops Owl by tapping the trees and in consequence wrote : ‘* The
nest 1s easily discovered by going round and hammering at the
old cork trees with a stick.”

For over thirty-four years I have sought the nests of these
small Owls and have ridden and walked hundred of miles and
tapped thousands of trees in their quest. Further, | have induced
innumerable friends to go and do likewise, and without result,
for never yet have I put an Owl off its nest by such methods.
It was after one such day with some naval officers that somebody
remarked that if Colonel Irby had realized the flow of appalling
bad language which was the direct outcome of his advice to
hammer the trees, he would probably have thought twice before
placing it on record.

One of the most mysterious of the calls among the dense woods
is that of the Hoopoe. It consists of a curiously soft and hooting
cry of ‘“ Hoo, Hoo, Hoo,” repeated at short intervals. Although
I know of many pairs in different parts of the country, it is seldom
indeed that one is able to find the nest.

But of all the spring migrants which herald the approach of
the nesting season none is more remarkable or more constant

than the brilliantly coloured Bee-eater (J/evops apraster).
Il

162 A Day in the Cork Woods

These lovely birds arrive with most extraordinary punctuality
year after year, at first in small parties of a dozen or so and then
in continuous streams. Their call is unlike that of any other bird,
a curious liquid double note, which at times, when many are
over, seems almost to fill the air with its sound. And

passing

A GLADE IN THE CORK WOODS.

a very joyful sound it is, for it is an unmistakable proof that
spring is upon the land. The first arrivals are usually heard
about 4 to 7 April and from that date onward parties pass
overhead for weeks, scattering all over southern Europe. The
climax to the migration, according to Colonel Irby’s and my own

Bee-eaters and their Burrows 163

observations, is about 19 April; hence, following the Spanish custom
he christened it ‘St. Bee-eater's Day” and as such it has been
known for years to all who had the happiness. to wander in the
wilds of southern Spain with that truly admirable ornithologist.
In the small garden surrounding my little dwelling in the wilds
there are placed many of the cork bee-hives, known in Spain as
colmenares, and year after year have I been awakened at an
early hour during the first days of April by the well-known liquid
cry of the Bee-eaters as, pausing in their first flight from the
African shores, they proceed to take toll of the luckless bees
swarming about the hives. The number of bees one of these birds
can devour is almost incredible.

I know of few more fascinating occupations than a ride or stroll
through the cork forests, now threading one’s way through dense
woods, now emerging on some grassy glade, across which the
roe-deer dart silently, following the sinuous tracks made by many
generations of pack animals, which at times have cut deep through
some sandy bluff or hillside making narrow passages hardly wide
enough for a laden beast to pass. In the vertical sand-banks
thus formed, the Bee-eaters burrow their deep tunnelled passages,
often for 1o ft. or more, Sand-Martin fashion, and deposit three
or four shining round white eggs in a small chamber at the far
end. The simplest way to get at these nests is to watch the
birds entering and leaving the numerous holes, until one which
is in occupation is detected. Armed with a telescopic Japanese
fishing-rod, I have plumbed many such burrows and when one
is found which trends upwards so as to be within reasonable reach
of the surface of the ground above, by carefully measuring the
length of the burrow and noting its direction, | have dug down
from above and reached the nest with but little trouble.

There are various perplexing points in the Bee-eater's habits.
Thus they make many more burrows than they require ; possibly,

164 A Day in the Cork Woods

on meeting with a stone or hard stratum which bars the way they
abandon the task and try afresh elsewhere. Again, some nests
are placed in a chamber mid-way down a burrow and not at the
end. A few weeks after the Bee-eaters have settled down to their
nesting stations their long, sharp-pointed bills are worn down
considerably from constant work at excavating their burrows.
Very favourite nesting stations for Bee-eaters are the sandy banks
of rivers and other natural cuttings in the open country.

The cork-oak tree is unquestionably a very picturesque object,
and the ravages made on it by removing the externai bark every
seventh year in a way add to the beauty of the vistas seen
through the woods. For the trunks, bereft of the cork, are of
the richest chocolate red, and the effect of the sunlight and shadow
playing through the leafy canopy on the dark rugged stems, dotted
here and there amid the brilliant golden blossoms and green foliage
of genista and high bracken, is a joy for ever. It is curious how
deep and chequered are the shadows cast by these trees, and
how hard it often is to discern either man or beast moving through
the scrub below them.

A native wearing the favourite dark brown chocolate jacket,
standing leaning on his long stick, as is their habit, assimilates so
perfectly with the surroundings as to make one start on suddenly
becoming aware of his proximity. 1 have always thought that
the chocolate brown uniform worn by the Portuguese Cagadores
in the Light Division during the Peninsular War was probably
chosen for this reason of its invisibility in wooded and broken
country. The trunks of the larger cork trees, above where the
cork has been removed, are usually covered with mosses and _hare’s-
foot fern, and make a very beautiful spectacle.

Of the flowers and flowering shrubs met with in the cork
forests, together with the butterflies and teeming insect-life, I can
only say, go and see them in April and May.

Game Preserving in Spain 165

It is sad to have to record that of late years, owing to the
extension of the custom of game preserving in Spain, war of ex-
termination has been declared in many places against the Eagles,
Falcons, Kites, Harriers and Hawks. That some of these do
some damage among the Partridges and rabbits is undeniable, but
the majority of them habitually feed upon the snakes and huge
lizards which are the deadly foes of all winged game and likewise
devour their eggs. Hence in no country should the birds of prey
be more encouraged and protected than in Spain.

But the greatest enemies of all game, both winged and four-
footed, in Spain are the numerous predaceous animals which in
some districts literally swarm. 3esides lynx, foxes and badgers
there are wild cats, ichneumons, genets, martens, polecats, stoats
and weasels, to name only some at random. [| mention this
subject here as, on the chance of this book falling into the hands
of those interested in game preservation in Spain, they will possibly
be led to devote their energies to the destruction of the four-footed
marauders and to enlist the services of the Eagles, Kites and
Harriers in keeping within bounds the deadly ravages of the
reptilia.

166

CHAPTER IT.
THE KITES AND HAWKS.

Tue Rep Kite (Milvus ictinus)—Marvellous powers of flight—Important part
played by tail—A Kite’s nest—A stiff climb—Trapping the old bird—Revisit
nest twenty-four years later—Kites and reptiles—Immense damage wrought
by reptiles in Spain—Raptorial birds the principal check on their numbers.

Tue Brack Kite (Milvus migvans)—Simple means of identifying on the wing—
Spring migration—A colony of Black Kites—Nesting-places—Curious pre-

dilection for rags and paper.
Tue Gosnawk (Astuy palumbarius)—Retiring habits—Constancy to same nesting-
place—A doubtful nest—Failure to identify bird—A stratagem and its result.
THE SPARROWHAWE (A ccipiter nisus)—Nest in Booted Eagle’s tree—Climbing ivy-
clad trees.

THE RED KITE (Milvus actinus).

T has often occurred to me when
watching Kites on the wing that
few birds afford a more instruc-
tive exhibition of the art or
mechanism of flying. Whether
this be due to some subtle com-
bination of wing-power, relative
weight or peculiarity of build it

is hard to say, but it is certain

that the Kites leave the im-
pression that they can move
with greater ease and precision

than do most other birds.

The Red Kite owing to
ceaseless persecution in our Isles,
is rarely seen and naturally enough is averse from being watched

(jaorppog)
ILIS. MOV IA

LLIM GaN

The Flight of the Red Kite 167

by its arch-enemy, man. Even in Spain, where it is so abundant
and so little molested, it is not always easy to watch its graceful
movements at close range. But across the Straits, in Morocco,
it ceases to have any fear of man, and to me one of the added
pleasures of camping out in the wilder parts of that country is to
watch the Kites on the wing at close quarters. It was not until
I had such an experience that I appreciated the marvel of precision
and grace combined which characterize the least movements of the
Kite. When on the march in Morocco | found it interesting to
note how soon after we got our pack animals unladen and tents
pitched, a pair of Red Kites would appear and constitute themselves
the guardians of the spot, circling often not 20 ft. above us and
keenly watching for any fragments worthy of their attention.
After a few easy strokes of its wings, no laboured flapping, one
would glide slowly past on motionless pinions, with head inclined
and bright yellow eye closely examining all below, and, as it passed
between us and the sun, the delicately coloured forked tail seemed
almost transparent and assumed a bright rufous tint. Suddenly,
with a quick but well-defined motion the angle of the tail would be
altered and, obedient to this movement, the course of the bird
would be changed with mechanical precision until a second quick
turn of the tail brought it back to its former course or caused it to
sweep round, as the case might be. Watching a Kite so close
at hand makes one realize what a vastly important part in the
mechanism of the flight of birds is played by the tail. Of course
the amount which is brought into use varies greatly, according to
the habits and flight of various orders of birds and very probably
there may be many which make even more use of it than does the
Kite. But owing to the conspicuous colour and abnormal length
and shape of the Kite’s tail, which attracts the eye of the least
observant of people, the effect it produces on the movements of the
bird is far easier to realize and enables the spectator to appreciate

168 The Kites and Hawks

the connection between cause and effect. Besides the quick lateral
alteration of the position of the tail, there is another movement
whereby the height of the flight is regulated, and yet again another,
the sudden expansion of the tail like an opened fan, whereby the
speed is instantly checked. It is after watching the Kites thus
gliding, seemingly without effort at all angles and in all directions,
that one despairs of the audacity of man’s attempts to convert himself
into a flying machine.

It was one of the many red-letter days in my birdsnesting life
when I first succeeded in marking some Red Kites to their nesting-
place at the top of a tall pine. The tree was without branches for
over 35 ft. with the exception of a small rotten-looking stump
about 20 ft. from the ground. At the time I was innocent of
ropes or other appliances for tree-climbing. So I set to work to
swarm up the big slippery trunk and after a severe struggle reached
the small stump where I rested to recover my wind and _ then
resumed the ascent. I shall never forget my joy at seeing the two
beautiful eggs lying on the dirty platform of old rags and goat’s
hair with which the nest was lined. Sending down my _ prize
in a box ona line, | hauled up my trap, an iron one with blunted
teeth and padded jaws, a present from Lord Lilford, and set it in
the nest. After covering it with some of the lining, and placing
a hen’s ege beyond it, | descended and concealed myself in the
cistus scrub some 200 yards distant. Very shortly the Kite
returned and, entering the nest, sprang the trap. Next moment she
dashed off, but the line on the trap soon brought her up and she
came to the ground. It was my first attempt at trapping a big
raptorial bird and I was mightily pleased to find she was caught by
one of her centre toes and absolutely unhurt. It is hard to imagine
the beauty of a wild bird thus caught alive and unharmed. It sur-
passes beyond belief the appearance of birds kept alive in confine-
ment or mounted by the most skilful of taxidermists.

Trapping a Red Kite 169

I kept this bird in barracks for about three weeks after which
she was released and I had the pleasure of seeing her, together
with her mate, when riding past the pine woods some days later,
still wearing the leather jesses I had put on her legs, but no doubt
they very soon dropped off.

This was in 1879; many years afterwards, in May, 1903, |
took Admiral Farquhar to this nest and found it again occupied by
a Red Kite. The old bird was sitting so close that she declined
to move until my lead weight struck the tree close to her. We soon
got a line up and ran one of our party up to the nest. This nest
contained a young Kite about 2 weeks old and a second, a week
old, besides one egg, a curious proof of the irregularity of laying
of some birds. There were also the remains of an Ocellated Lizard
about 18 in. in length. Those sportsmen, and alas! there are
many, who advocate the killing of these Kites, Harriers and Eagles
in Spain on the pitiful pretext that they are ‘so destructive to
game’ would do well to consider the enormous amount of assistance
they receive in the protection of game from these same birds. The
havoc wrought by the vast number of big snakes and lizards in the
Spanish Peninsula among both birds and the smaller mammals is
well-nigh incredible. Both classes of reptiles not only devour
both eggs and young birds but, when opportunity offers, the parent
birds as well. In fact, the only thing which keeps the numbers of
these most predaceous reptiles at all within bounds is the persistent
preying on them by so many of the larger raptorial birds. Un-
fortunately the misdeeds of the birds such, as taking a Partridge
or a rabbit, are done in the light of day and are at times seen and
animadverted upon, whereas the reptiles work quietly and unseen,
often by night and always under cover. Hence the extent of their
depredations is generally unappreciated. For one luckless rabbit
pounced upon by an Eagle, scores of young ones are swallowed
wholesale by the reptiles who exploit their burrows. Hence all

170 The Kites and Hawks

and every means of reducing the number of the snakes and lizards
tends ultimately to increase the amount both of winged game and
rabbits, which are held in high esteem in Spain.

Upon the amount of good done by the whole family of raptores
in this way nobody can speak with such decisive authority as the
birdsnester and above all one who habitually visits all the nests
himself and is accustomed to take note of what he sees. The out-
come of my own personal observations extending over thirty-four
years is that with hardly an exception all the so-called game-
destroying Eagles and Hawks habitually prey upon the larger
reptiles, as is well shown by the fact that it is rare to find one of
their nests without the remains of a snake or big lizard, particu-
larly the latter, whereas it is the exception to find rabbits and still
more so to see Partridge’s feathers.

BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans).

Closely allied to the Red Kite is the Black Kite, the former
however, is a resident in southern Spain whereas the latter is
one of the many spring, migrants. As can be seen from the Plate
of the two species there is a strong family resemblance between
them. On the wing it is not difficult to identify either species, for
even at a considerable distance the more deeply forked tail of the
Red Kite is clearly distinguishable, whilst, should the birds be
overhead, the Red Kite’s wings are much lighter on their under
surface and are marked with a conspicuous dark patch upon each.
Lastly, the Black Kite, besides being darker under the wings has
a distinctly darker appearance all over than has its relative, whence
its name,

Every spring great numbers of Black Kites pass northward

over the Straits. The first of the migration usually occurs during

The Black Kite 17

the first week in March and it is at its height during the la

week. Some few remain to breed at various places in the vicinity
but the bulk of them pass further north and nest in colonies. [i
May 1879 I visited one of these in the Coto de Donana with
Crown Prince Rudolf, and I climbed up and took several nests.

On one occasion I saw no less than twenty-two of these birds

NEST OF BLACK KITE IN CORK TREI

congregated on one of the sun-baked mud flats amid the sand
hills and pine woods of the marisma. It was near the end ol
May and the ground was like iron and the herbage burnt up by
the fierce rays of the sun. Yet these birds seemed to be feeding
upon something, possibly small grasshoppers of sorts. When dis
turbed they gave a sharp tremulous cry as they took wing

Both Black and Red Kites often nest in comparatively smal

172 The Kites and Hawks

trees. I have found several nests placed in cork trees 20 ft. to 30 ft.
from the ground. They would seem whenever possible to prefer
using the deserted nest of some other bird to going to the trouble

of building one for themselves. Thus, those in the cork-oak trees

NEST AND EGGS OF BLACK KITE.

were invariably disused nests of the Snake Eagle which I had
seen tenanted by those birds in former years. The nests in the
Spanish oaks were similarly those of the Booted Eagle and most,
but not all, of those in the pine trees were old Ravens’ nests. The

nest shown on the preceding page is in a cork tree about 30 ft. from

Kites’ Fancy for Coloured Rags 173
the ground and was originally built by a pair of Snake Eagles.
The sharp turn taken by the branch in which the nest is placed
gives some slight protection against the casual marauder but none
whatever against an expert climber.

As is well known, Kites are much addicted to lining their nests
with pieces of rag and paper and all sorts of curious and uncon-
sidered trifles. The Black Kite seems to possess this curious
mania to a marked degree and some nests | have visited have
been literally festooned with such rubbish. The classic example
of this was narrated by Lord Lilford to me in 1876. It was in
1870 that he visited a Black Kite’s nest in a remote district and
found in it among other things a fragment of a Spanish news-
paper in which the assassination of the unfortunate General Prim
was announced.

I can pretend to nothing so interesting in the Kite's nests
I have visited. In one instance I found a delicate cambric hand-
kerchief which must have been brought from afar, since the good
folk of the sierra do not indulge in such luxuries. In this nest,
of which a photograph is here given, there were many coloured
rags including a piece of curiously worked brocade which was

spread out alongside the eggs as shown.

THE GOSHAWK (Astur palumbarius).

In the more secluded portions of the large forests of cork-oak
trees in Andalucia the Goshawk lives all the year round but owing
to its peculiarly retiring and sylvan habits usually escapes observa-
tion. Thus I have known of some which have regularly nested
in the same district since 1871, when Colonel Irby first found the
nest, yet never once have I seen these fine short-winged Hawks
save when I have put the old bird off the nest. It would be

difficult to give better evidence of their unobtrusive habits. The

174 The Kites and Hawks

nest of 1871 was in an alder tree only 15 ft. from the ground, or
rather water, since it was in the midst of the almost impenetrable
jungle which covers the deep sofos or marshes in the woodland
districts. Twenty years later the Goshawks still nested in the same
locality if not in the same tree and the last time I visited the spot,
in 1903, they were still there. In the interval the old nesting-place
had been disturbed owing to the work of clearing the sofe, and,
alas! of draining it too. The alders had been cut down and the
Goshawks had resorted to an ivy-covered poplar, where there was
a disused nest of the Booted Eagle about qo ft. from the ground,
I was at the time unable to climb, and so regretfully delegated
the task to a naval officer who took from the nest three eggs.
It was on 2 May, and they were somewhat incubated and stained
all over with yellow and pale brown like a Grebe’s egg, exactly
as described by Colonel Irby in the nest he took thirty-two years
earlier from the same place. Since 1902 the work of clearing the
jungle has been continued and the Goshawks have been obliged
to seek other quarters.

In April 1906 when walking through a very thickly wooded
portion of the cork forest within a mile of the old nesting-site,
I put a big bird off a nest near the summit of an ivy-grown
Spanish oak. A friend with me climbed up and reported two
eges which I suspected to be Goshawk’s, since he described them
as being of a bluish tinge. I was most anxious to take some
Goshawk’s eggs with my own hands, in accordance with the rule
which I have set before me throughout life where my own ege-
collection is concerned, but it was useless to touch these unless |
could identify the bird for certain. So after leaving the spot for
some hours so as to give the old bird plenty of time to return
and settle down, I again approached the nest quietly and again
put her off it. Owing, however, to the dense foliage which formed
a regular canopy overhead, it was impossible to say for certain

Minor Tactics with a Goshawk I

whether it was a Booted Eagle, a Goshawk, or some other large
Hawk. So I concealed myself carefully under a mass of brambles
at a point whence I could command a view of the nest and waited
patiently until near sundown, but the old bird never returned.

Two days later I revisited the spot and again put the bird off
and again failed to identify her. It was becoming past a joke for
I was extremely anxious to make sure of the eggs. I did not
want to shoot the bird, that panacea for all ornithological doubt
which has led to the unnecessary slaughter of so many rare birds,
nor did I feel equal to the task of trapping her, since this might
involve several troublesome climbs for which I was not strong
enough. So I did what I should have done sooner—had recourse
to a stratagem. My various futile attempts at identifying the
bird had taught me that when she left the nest she invariably
followed the same course, threading her way at speed between
the tops of the surrounding trees. Following up this line, |
shortly came upon an open glade and it at once struck me that
this must be the route she took when making her retreat unseen.

The following day I returned to the wood and making a wide
detour entered the glade about a quarter of a mile from the nest,
and moved down it cautiously until | could command the point
whence I reckoned that the bird must emerge after leaving her nest.
Concealing myself in some scrub not 200 yards from this point I
sent my Spaniard round with orders to approach the nest from
the far side, making just sufficient noise to induce the bird to slip
away quietly. Half an hour had elapsed when I heard my man’s
voice singing to himself one of the wild cadences known as
malaguenas, after the custom of his kind when travelling alone,
next moment a large bird suddenly emerged from the wood through
the top of the trees to my front at the exact spot I was watching
and upon reaching the glade dipped downwards until hardly 2 ft.
above the ground and came skimming right towards me. Next

176 The Kites and Hawks

instant I sprang to my feet and we met literally face to face.
An unmistakable female Goshawk! So close were we that I could
see every marking on her richly barred breast as with outspread
tail she violently checked her flight and swerving round dashed
off out of sight through the woods to my right. The identification
was absolute. So proceeding to the nest I climbed up to it with
no small difficulty and took the eggs, three in number, for she had
laid another since my visit three days earlier. But any attempts
at photographing the nest or eggs were foredoomed to failure. It
was a beautiful day with a fresh breeze, and the whole upper
portion of the tree was swaying to the wind. In addition the
canopy of green leaves above the nest, bending to every fresh
gust of wind, cast a chequered shade on the eggs which varied
every instant. My camera was a one-speed Kodak, and it was
clearly hopeless to look for success under such adverse conditions.
Nor did I achieve it. Descending, I endeavoured to obtain at
least a picture of the tree and nest from below. This proved
equally hopeless, for the tree stood in a densely overgrown and
shady part of the forest and was surrounded by others festooned
with swaths of wild vine and sarsaparilla, which, surging in the wind,
impeded the view from every side. The nest itself was almost con-
cealed from view by the ivy below it and was not visible at all in the
finder of the camera. Experience of many nests in similar positions
has taught me the inutility of attempting to photograph them, since,
no matter how clear the prints may be, the whole subject is on
such a small scale as to render it of very secondary interest.

THE SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus).

This well-known British species is rather scarce in south-west
Andalucia despite the great extent of woods and country suitable
to its habits. I fancy, however, it is commoner than is supposed,

The Sparrowhawk 177

for in my wanderings in the sylvan districts | now and again come
across one. The first nest I found was on 8 May 1878 in the
disused nest of a Booted Eagle, near the summit of a very tall
ivy-covered oak. It contained three beautifully marked eges, which
I have in my collection.

Three years previously the Booted Eagles had occupied this
same nest. The tree itself was practically unclimbable without
ropes, owing to its great size. Thanks, however, to the masses
of encircling ivy I was able to overcome this difficulty and obtain
a lodgment at a point where the girth of the tree permitted of
regular climbing. With the memories of this climb. still fresh
within me, I would advise all who essay to climb big trees by
the aid of ivy stems to be extremely careful how they depend
upon these for support, for they are extremely treacherous, and it
at times happens that seemingly strong and healthy ivy stems
upon being put to a strain snap off like carrots.

CHAPTER IIT.

THE BOOTED EAGLE (Nisaétus penuatus) AND THE SNAKE
EAGLE (Circaétus gallicus).

Tue Boorep EacLe—Nesting habits—Eaglets—An indignant mother— Rearing
Eaglets—Their sulky nature—A hard struggle— Operations of War ’—
Flying Eagles to the ‘‘lure’’—An Eagle overboard.

Tue Snake Eacre—Remarkable brilliancy of irides—Flooded out reptiles—
Nesting habits of Snake Eagle—A fallen Eaglet—A close sitter—Uses for
a catapult—Awkward Photography—Hatching out an Eaglet—Photo-
graphing Eaglets—Trapping an Eagle—Taming an adult Eagle.

THE BOOTED EAGLE (Nisaétus pennatus).

HIS is yet another of the tree-nesting

_ Eagles of southern Europe, and is

NNN

WAN found in abundance in the cork forests
WTA \

and pine woods of Andalucia. It is a
beautiful little bird, in size very little
larger than a female Peregrine, but as
regards structure and plumage every
inch an Eagle. It owes its name of
Booted to the closely growing light
brownish yellow feathers which cover
the tarsus to the foot.

Essentially a summer visitant, it

crosses from Africa about the end

of March, nesting about a month
later and returning again south in
September. Considering the large number that nest in the great
cork forests it is remarkable how comparatively seldom it is seen

(urpauts) suppunuag SuJaDSEAT

The Booted Eagle 179

on the wing, though during the summer months its cry can be hear

ca)

at intervals throughout the day.

NEST OF THE BOOTED EAGLE IN SPANISH OAK.

It often nests in some ivy-grown tree, preferably an oak, but
at other times in a cork tree. The nest is small and often difficult

to see on account of the ivy. A favourite situation is in the fork of

180 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

a bough close to the bole, thus differing from the Snake Eagle,
which habitually builds its nest well out along a bough. Booted
Eagles will at times lay in the disused nests of the Snake Eagle.

They usually select a tree which affords a good site for a nest,
30 ft. to go ft. from the ground and they seem to have a particular
affection for trees growing near the summit of a steep hillside.
At times they will resort to lower sites, thus the nest of which a
picture is given was placed in the fork of an oak tree not 15 ft.
from the ground, the tree, however, was near the top of a steep
bluff, full 60 ft. high.

I have never yet seen a nest of the Booted Eagle that I could
not climb to. For a few a rope was required to surmount the lower
portion of the trunk, whilst in other cases this could be effected more
conveniently by climbing a pendent bough.

The picture; ‘given in Il., Chapter IV on" p. 63, 0n® dinec-
Climbing,
used for years by Booted Eagles and is still in their occupation.

of ascending a tree in this fashion is of one that has been

All the nests I have visited, and they are many, have been built
of branches of oak bearing the dead leaves, thickly lined with fresh
green oak leaves. The care bestowed by these Eagles in providing
a plentiful lining to their nests is well shown by the accompanying
picture which was taken when the first ege@ was laid and all the
leaves composing the lining were recently plucked. They lay from
one to three white eggs, much the same size and shape as Bantam
Fowl’s. Two is probably the most usual number laid and several
days usually pass between the laying of the first and second egg.
They are somewhat irregular in their date of nesting, thus I have
found a nest with freshly laid eggs as early as 12 April, and others
again so late as 25 May. Again I have found a nest with a
young bird only 2 or 3 days old on 27 June and another containing
two fully fledged young, certainly 6 weeks old on t July, only four
days later, in the same season.

Nesting Habits of Booted Eagle 181

I first made the acquaintance of the Booted Eagle in May 1875

when I found a pair nesting in a very tall ivy-covered oak in the

EGG OF BOOTED EAGLE. oIze 2s x 1°7 1n

Cork Woods near Gibraltar and the successors of this pair still
nest in an almost similar tree only a few hundred yards from the

site of the first one which was cut down many years ago.

182 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

The young birds begin to shoot their quill feathers at the end
of the third week, thus the nestling of 27 June, already described,
had its quills just budding on 17 July. On this visit the old
Eagle, which had left the nest as I climbed up, upon my reaching
it came sweeping round and alighted on a branch not 30 ft. from
me. Here it remained with all its feathers raised and wings
expanded, screaming vigorously for so long as I was at the nest.
This is the only instance which I have experienced of a parent
Eagle making even a show of protecting its young.

When a Booted Eagle is sitting in its nest and is disturbed
it makes upon leaving an extraordinary headlong dive, at times
almost touching the ground before it curves upwards and _ flies
away. I have no doubt in my own mind that it is this habit which
induces these birds to select for nesting-stations trees growing on
the sides of steep hills, which afford especial conveniences for this
mode of retreat. It is curious how very easy it is to miss shooting
an Eagle when making this dive; of this I have seen repeated
examples. Booted Eagles are very easily trapped on the nest for
they return to it very soon. I have taken them thus for purposes
of examination and identification and subsequently released them
none the worse.

Their favourite food is young rabbits, lizards and snakes. Their
eggs are often stained with the dye from the freshly gathered
oak-leaves, which form the lining of the nest.

The general colour of the old birds is brown above and light
tawny yellow below ; the young in their first plumage are usually
very much more rufous in colour, but some are as light as the adult
birds.

I have reared the young from the nest on several occasions
and with complete success. In the year 1879 I had three, two
from one nest, and a third from a second nest. I took them all just
before they were able to fly and in consequence had no trouble

Sulky Booted Eagles 183

in rearing them, as to cramp and other ailments. They soon
became very tame and would take food from my hand but a few
weeks later developed the true aquiline characteristic of sulking.
I had prior to this placed jesses on their legs and kept them secured
by swivel and leash to their blocks, and had further, accustomed
them to being carried on my wrist in falconer’s fashion. To
all this they submitted quietly enough but with the hour of
feeding came the trouble. So long as I remained near them, even
if the food was placed close in front of them, they would refuse to
look at it. Things grew worse and eventually it became a regular
trial of endurance between us as to whose determination should
obtain the mastery. In vain did I starve them for several days
hoping thus to reduce them to subjection. My fears of doing
them permanent injury by inducing ‘ hunger-traces ” in their
beautiful plumage caused me to desist from this. On their side,
they reckoned on my becoming tired of standing watching them
and here they were right, for my time was of peculiar value at
this period of my career. I was reading for the Staff College.
It was now that I hit upon the happy expedient of arranging
a seat in the shade of my hut so that [ could study ‘“ Hamley's
Operations of War” and keep a watchful eye on the recalcitrant
trio, tethered in front of me, at one and the same time. This fairly
wore them down and finally, one day, after an hour or more
of distracting study with one eye on the Jena Campaign and the
other on the three rebels, I heard a flutter and first one and then
the others dashed at the portions of rabbits in front of them,
and seizing them, instantly turned their backs and expanded their
wings and tails so as to conceal their weakness from my eye.
My victory was but half complete for when 1 sought to watch
them feeding they shuffled round so as always to present to
me their back view. Baffled in this, they drooped their heads,
and drawing their wings round in front, completely screened

184 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

their food from my view. I resumed my seat, and from time
to time one would gradually relax its plumage and tear savagely
at its food but the slightest movement on my part caused it to
resolve itself once again into an animated bell-tent of spreading
feathers and remain motionless. I remember that at this critical
period of the Eagles’ training, according to Hamley, “ Soult was
at Gera,” but for the life of me I have no recollection now of
what happened to him after, although I can recall distinctly every
movement of the Eagles.

Slowly but surely I obtained the mastery over them and
at last they would not only feed in my presence but come to
me for food and fly on to my gloved hand, holding a temptingly
garnished falconer’s “lure.” Finally I was so confident of them
that I ventured to release two on the Europa Flats and fly them
to the lure. This I did with complete success and although it was
anxious work, having regard to the peculiar locality, I feel con-
vinced from their behaviour that I could have entered them to
fly at rabbits without further trouble.

On my homeward voyage to England in the P. & O. ss.
‘Lombardy ” in the following November I lost one of these birds
in the most tragic manner. I had tethered it on deck under the
lee of a skylight one afternoon and in my temporary absence
a meddlesome passenger, endeavouring to clear the leash, which
had become caught up, let it go! Even then the Eagle only
moved a few feet across the deck. Just at this moment I returned
and was about to take up the bird when another unspeakable
passenger ran at it. Of course it rose and flew overboard.
We were off Cape Finisterre at the time, and were steaming
about eleven knots, with the wind two points on our starboard
bow. The poor bird, after flying to leeward for a couple of
hundred yards, swung round and made for the ship. But unused
to flying, and being weighted by the long leather leash and

Lose a Tame Eagle at Sea 18

swivel, it could not overtake us and, after steadily following in our
wake for a time, gradually sank lower and lower until it only
cleared the curling crests of the successive waves. Eventually it
sank into the trough of the sea just astern of us. It was a most
pitiable sight and I was within an ace of following it overboard.
Unfortunately I was too upset to report the matter to our good
Captain Wyatt, who, as soon as he heard of the catastrophe some
time afterwards, at once offered to about and lower a_ boat
so as to try and pick the bird up. It was then, alas! too late.
Even after this lapse of time it is most painful to write of this most
pitiful scene.

THE SNAKE EAGLE (Circaétus gallicus).

Next in point of size to the large White-shouldered Eagle
among the various tree-nesting species which are found in Anda-
lucia comes the Snake Eagle, known also as the Short-toed Eagle.
It is a fine handsome bird and easily recognized when flying
owing to its very white breast and under surface of wing which
has earned for it the name of /ean-le-b/anc in France. In Spain
it is known as caulebrera or the snake-hunter. The sketch at the
beginning of this chapter is of a Snake Eagle I watched one day at
fairly close range,

It is widely distributed throughout southern and middle Europe
wherever big woods are found, arriving in southern Spain in
considerable numbers during March and returning southward in
September. According to my own observations, a few birds
remain for the greater part of most winters in the sheltered glades
of the cork woods of south-western Andalucia, but the vast
majority, without question, migrate southward as soon as_ the
autumnal weather causes the reptiles upon which they prey to
retire to their shelters. It is a lazy bird when on the wing, save

186 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

when engaged in circling aloft in quest of food; and in its flight
when disturbed, as well as in the softness of its plumage, it much
resembles the Buzzards. On several occasions when out with the
Calpe Hunt in the Cork Woods during the winter months, I have
seen one of these big birds, upon some horseman passing close
to a tree in which it was sitting, reluctantly leave it and flap
slowly to another tree, perhaps only 150 yards ahead, which it
would in turn quit when again disturbed, only to seek yet another
perch not far off. The most striking thing about this species is,
without doubt, the great size and rich yellow colour of its irides
which almost equal those of the Eagle Owl in their brilliancy.
The resentful look in the big flashing eyes of a wounded Snake
Eagle is a thing not easily forgotten.

Some birds are very large I have seen a female which
measured close upon 30 in. in length, and a span of whose wings
was over 6 ft., yet this bird was under 4 lb. in weight, a good
proof of the softness of their plumage, which causes them to bulk
so large to the eye. They can at all times be easily distinguished
from other large birds of prey by their long unfeathered tarsi.
The species earned the name of Short-toed Eagle, by which it
was known for years, from its remarkably small feet. Both foot
and unfeathered tarsus are well adapted for seizing and holding
securely the writhing reptiles upon which it preys. Its favourite
food is the large Ocellated Lizard, as well as all sorts of snakes,
and, as has been already said, the movements of this species, as
well as of a host of other raptorial birds which seek their prey
amid the teeming reptile life of southern Spain, are largely
modified by the habits of the snakes, which are in turn influenced
by the seasons and also by the weather.

Living as I do from autumn to spring in successive winters
in Andalucia I see much of the ways of the larger reptiles. As
a rule both large lizards and snakes are but seldom seen during

Snake Eagles and their Prey 187

winter but any unusual rainfall and consequent flooding of the
lower districts at once brings them to light. Thus during the very
wet winter of 1907-8 I saw daily in December big Ocellated Civande:
no longer of.a brilliant metallic green with azure-spotted sides, as
in the spring and summer months, but of a dull dirty brown and
often caked in mud, clear proof both that they had been roused
from their lairs by the inrush of water and also of the effect
which an absence of sunlight has upon the hue of these vividly
coloured reptiles.

On 28 December when lying up for Wild Geese on a promon-
tory amid the waters of a rising /aguna, | saw several big lizards
and snakes basking on the sunny and sheltered side of the lentiscus
bushes around me. They were in a semi-torpid state. But I was
most particularly struck by the innate spirit of self-preservation,
which under such unexpected and, likely enough, novel conditions
induced them one and all to select places where projecting bough
or pendent streamer of sarsaparilla afforded them protection from
the sudden attack of Eagle, Buzzard or Harrier. With the return
of spring and the general awakening of reptile life innumerable
raptorial birds come streaming up from the African continent and
the sight of them as they pass, either singly or in small scattered
parties, almost continuously for days at a time, when the wind suits
their purpose, makes one wonder where they can find sufficient food.

The nest of the Snake Eagle is remarkably small for so large
a bird. Like all the raptores, when conditions are favourable it
occupies the same sites year after year, but, unlike most of them,
owing to the peculiar situations it selects, it cannot always reckon
upon finding the remains of a last year’s nest upon which to build
a fresh one. The vast majority of nests I have visited, probably
over go per cent., have been placed far out along an horizontal or
even on a pendent branch of a cork-oak tree and it is obvious that
nests in such situations are peculiarly liable to be destroyed by

188 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

the winter gales. When this occurs, the Eagles either build again

in the same site or select some adjacent tree, for no amount of

NEST OF SNAKE EAGLE NEAR SUMMMIT OF CORK-OAK TREE.

bullying or interference would seem to cause them to forsake any
particular locality which they have elected to make a_ breeding

station. To such an extent do Snake Eagles at times carry this

A Precarious Nesting Place 189

habit of nesting at the extremity of a bough that I have been
compelled to secure myself with a rope before crawling out along
the slender branch supporting the nest. At times, nests placed
in such situations become dislodged and fall to the ground. |
knew of such an instance in 1906, when a nest placed at the
extreme end of a pendent cork-oak bough gradually slipped through
the supporting branches. So long as the old bird was sitting, the
disaster was postponed although it was obvious enough that the
nest might drop through at any moment. In due course the young
bird was hatched out and with the increased weight as it grew larger
the strain became too great and one day the inevitable occurred and
both nest and young bird came to the ground. The distance was
short, about 12 ft. to 15 ft. and no harm was done and the old
birds continued to feed their offspring as it sat on the ground in
the remains of its nest amid the gum-cistus bushes. The Snake
agle is essentially a tree-nesting species, only once have I found
a nest on a cliff and then it was built in the spreading boughs
of an arbutus growing from a cranny in the face of the crag.
Colonel Irby however once found a nest in Morocco in a lentiscus
bush with its base actually touching the ground. Now and again
I have found nests high up in the fork of a really big tree, secure
from molestation save from one of the guild of inveterate birds-
nesters who decline to admit that, yiven time and appliances, any
tree is impossible.

Every nest I have visited has been constructed in exactly the
‘same manner, the base of sticks and twigs and some dead leaves,
lined with freshly cut green boughs of cork-oak or ilex. Some
of the newly built nests are little more than a small platform of
sticks, not 18 in. across, with a slight hollow in the middle.
Nests of former years which have been repaired and added
to are sometimes double this size and effectually conceal the old
bird from view when sitting on her egg or young. When a nest

190 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

is sufficiently large to prevent the bird seeing the approach of any
intruders, it will at times sit extraordinarily close and I have
known birds refuse to leave the nest in spite of repeated hammer-
ings on the trunk, perhaps not 20 ft. below it. Sometimes,
indeed, nothing seems to dislodge them save a stick or stone
striking the nest itself. This induces me to remark incidentally
that in the case of all tree-nesting birds nothing is so effective
as a means of ascertaining whether a nest is in occupation or
not as a catapult and a supply of marbles, old sparklet capsules,
or pebbles. By such means have I discovered the secrets of
Hawks, Carrion Crows, Owls, Kites and other species innumerable.

The egg (there is only one) is usually laid, according to my
notes, between 26 March and 16 April, and is invariably pure white
and very round in shape. There are two types of eggs, one with
a coarse granulated surface and the other very smooth. Some eggs
are considerably rounder than others. The largest I have taken
measured 2°85 in. by 2°4 in. and the smallest 2°8 in. by 2°25 in.
It is interesting to note that although this species only lays one egg
in Morocco, Spain and France and elsewhere in Europe; in India,
according to Allan Hume, it usually lays two eggs.

Owing to their habit of nesting far out on branches, few Eagles’
eggs in their nests are more difficult to photograph. For in addition
to the awkward and frequently insecure position of the photographer,
there is almost invariably some movement of the tree caused both by
the wind and the extra weight of the climber on a resilient bough.
Hence, no time exposure is as a rule possible. Added to these
drawbacks, for some inscrutable reason Snake Eagles are most
partial to building a nest on the western side of a tree. Such has
been my experience. Of course the result is that in nine cases out
of ten the sun will be found to be shining into the lens. Desperate
cases require desperate remedies and I have sometimes been com-
pelled to focus my camera at 18 in. distance and, holding it out on

Nesting Habits of Snake Eagle IQ!

the far side of a nest so as to face me but at the same time to o

the sun behind it, have made the exposure. Since it is, of cours:
NEST AND EGG OF SNAKE EAGLE.

impossible to look into the finder in such a situation there ts

delightful element of uncertainty. Sometimes it has met witl

qualified success as can be seen by the egg figured at tl

192 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

of this chapter. The picture on the preceding page is of a nest
near the summit of a diminutive cork-oak which permitted of

g¢ a view of it from an adjacent branch.

my getting

EGG OF SNAKE EAGLE (uch stained). (Size 2°8 in. xX 2°3 In.)

I took my first egg of this species in company with Colonel Irby
in 1877. On climbing to the nest I heard a faint cheep and

became aware that it proceeded from the egg which was on the

Yo
oo
point of hatching. As the female had been shot, I took the egg,
only to discover on our arrival at home at nightfall that the young

bird had hatched out during the return ride.

Photographing an Eaglet 193

Few Eagles are more faithful to a particular locality than is this
one. Year after year they will nest in one of three or four sites in
rotation, all situated close together. Should a tree be cut down
they will select one close by and build a fresh nest. In spite of
their comparative abundance I have never known of more than one
pair being in occupation of the same wooded valley, although they
seein to have no objection to the Black or Red Kites building
in their vicinity.

YOUNG SNAKE EAGLE, AGED I WEEK.

The eggs very soon after they are laid become stained with the
green leaves in the nest and also with reptiles’ blood. It is a
common thing to find the remains of a snake or lizard in the nest
of a sitting bird.

The young, on first emerging from the shell, are little more than
balls of white down with very dark eyes and beak. The Eaglet here
shown was photographed on 10 May, when just a week old.

194 The Booted Eagle and the Snake Eagle

As usual the nest was in a cork-oak which was swaying in the
wind. Having taken the first picture apparently unobserved, |
stooped down out of sight and prepared the camera for another
attempt. Placing it on the edge of the nest I raised myself gently
on the chance of not alarming the little fellow but he had detected
my presence and turned on me furiously. It was comical to see
such wrath and indignation concentrated in less than 4 in. of white
down.

YOUNG SNAKE EAGLE, ANNOYED AT BEING PHOTOGRAPHED.

Kept in confinement this species soon becomes very tame and
tractable, even when trapped as an adult bird. On 6 April 1879
when riding through a glade in a cork wood where these birds nest
annually, a female came circling overhead, calling out sharply,
as is their habit when their nest is approacked. I could make
nothing of it on this day, but subsequently found it about 300
yards from the spot where she had given the alarm. It contained
one egg, rather set. This I replaced by a hen’s egg and trapped

Trapping a Snake Eagle 195

her entering the nest within ten minutes. She was a very fine bird
and having secured her by throwing my coat over her I tied her up
in it with my fava and rode homewards. The old male bird, who
had evidently watched my nefarious proceedings from afar, followed
me through the cork forest and out into the plain beyond for over
two miles, circling high overhead and from time to time calling
querulously. My bird soon became reconciled to her confinement
and in less than three weeks would allow herself to be carried in
falconer’s fashion without any trouble. I eventually gave this bird
to Crown Prince Rudolf, who took it with him in his yacht, the
Miramar back to Austria and the last I heard about it, some
years later, was that it was alive and well.

196

CLA PAGE Rave

THE WHITE-SHOULDERED EAGLE (Aquila adalberti).

The largest tree-nesting Eagle. Means of identifying at a distance—Comparison
with Golden Eagle—Perplexing changes of plumage—A nest in a marsh—
Pugnacity of Eagles—Nest in black poplar—A_ bull-fighting interlude
—‘‘ Mild-mannered”’ bulls and the reverse. Beautifully coloured eggs—
Trapping an Eagle, a lucky escape—Food of Eagle—Habits—The ‘“ Black
Eagle’””—A Regimental Trophy.

is one of those curious anomalies so
constantly met with where the habits
of wild birds are concerned that in
southern Spain where great cliffs
abound which offer secure nesting-sites
for Eagles, out of the five species of
Eagles most frequently met with two,
and two only, nest in cliffs the others
invariably resorting to trees. And not
only do they nest in trees but often in
extremely small trees, in some cases
only 15 ft. or so from the ground.
Foremost and largest among these
tree-nesting species is the beautiful
White-shouldered Eagle, or as it is also
called, the Spanish Imperial Eagle, the western representative of
the Imperial Eagle (Aguzla mogilntk) of Eastern Europe. This
bird in its structure, flight, general appearance and habits closely
resembles the Golden Eagle. It is however of a lighter and less

(uuyosee yy) 2 p thy
LIOVaA GAANAATAOHS ALIHM

Comparison with Golden Eagle 197

powerful build and somewhat smaller and, save in the case of very
young birds, is easily recognizable by its white shoulders, whence
the name.

When flying at a distance or high overhead it requires a
quick eye to identify it and, personally, I am never satisfied
when watching a soaring bird until I see it turn so as to show
its back and upper wing-coverts, when the white shoulders, if
present, at once show the species.

Broadly speaking, in southern Spain the Golden Eagle restricts
itself to the higher sierras, where it seeks for its quarry on the
open hillsides where trees are few and scattered, whereas the
White-shouldered Eagle frequents the low-lying ground and is
usually seen circling over the plains and marshes or beating
along the low scrub-covered hills adjacent to them. But there
is no hard and fast rule in the matter and I have from time to
time found nests of the White-shouldered Eagle in secluded wooded
valleys at a greater altitude than those of the Golden Eagle in
cliffs in the same district.

Despite the resemblance of the two species when on the wing
the Golden Eagle is vastly more powerful, especially in the legs,
feet and talons. Thus an adult female’s hind-toe claw measured
along the curve 22 in. whereas a White-shouldered Eagle’s was
only 2 in. Again the claw of the inner toe of the Golden Eagle
was 22 in, whilst in that of the White-shouldered it was only 1} in.

This bird undergoes somewhat perplexing changes in_ its
plumage. During the first year or two it is of a uniform reddish
tawny colour, then follows an intermediate stage when the tawny
is spotted with black and lastly, the adult plumage of a rich
dark brown, so dark, indeed, as to appear almost black when on
the wing. For a long time these immature tawny birds were
supposed to be specimens of the Tawny Eagle (Agucla rapax),
a smaller species whose habitat is Africa and it was Colonel Irby

198 The White-Shouldered Eagle

who first pointed out the mistake. The white shoulders are
apparently not acquired until the third year, but, as do some of
the other raptores, these birds sometimes pair and breed in
immature plumage. Dr. Stark noticed this in 1876 and I have
heard of other cases since. In the perfect adult plumage some
birds are intensely black and hence the species is widely known
to all the country folk in southern Spain as Aguzla negra =
‘Black Eagle.” I have seen old birds which in certain lights
looked as black and almost as shiny as a Raven.

I first met with this species in a curious and unexpected
manner. In the month of May 1875 and in company with
Fergusson I was hunting some beds of sedges in a marsh for
nests of Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinzordes) when we chanced
to see a big nest perched on the top of an alder tree some
distance out in the marsh. On proceeding towards it, we found
it was surrounded by a dense jungle of alders, sallows and cane-
brake, the whole so matted and interlaced by long trailing briers
and creepers as to be almost impenetrable. Below the trees the
soft black mud was over knee-deep and at places were deep
pools which we crossed by stepping along the gnarled roots of
the alders and grasping from time to time a friendly branch
or tree-stem. It was small wonder that the Eagles imagined
themselves secure in such a fastness. Whilst struggling to force
our passage through this labyrinth of water-plants, we were
joined by two Spaniards who were engaged in leech-catching, and
with their assistance we cut a path through the jungle towards
the tree. On nearing the nest, which was less than 20 ft. from
the water, a White-shouldered Eagle, which had been sitting close
in it, raised itself and stood up in the nest. I had never seen
a live Eagle of any sort at close quarters before and I regret to
say that I shot her. The sketch at the beginning of this chapter
of the nest in the dead alder tree is from one I made at the time

A Nest in a Marsh 199

in my note-book. Thirty-three years have elapsed since | com-
mitted this wicked murder and all I can urge in extenuation of it
is that in spite of numerous opportunities since then | have never
again killed a White-shouldered Eagle.

Upon climbing up to the nest it was no easy matter to look
into it, since it overhung the summit of the alder on all sides.
Eventually I succeeded and found it contained a single white egg,
smaller than a Marsh Harrier’s. This, when I came to_ blow it,
proved to be yolkless and of abnormal thickness and roughness of
shell. As the old bird was sitting so close on this, I have no
doubt that her nest had been robbed of the eggs or young some
time before and that this abnormal egg had been left or been laid
subsequently.

The nest was a great pile of big sticks and boughs and, was
curiously enough, lined with goat’s hair, lambswool and feathers, a
fact I duly noted at the time, and, naturally enough, imagined to be
in accordance with the usual custom of this species. The old bird,
a female, was in the uniform dark brown plumage—not the black—
and measured 34 in. in length, with a span across the wings of
80 in., her weight being 8 Ib.

Two years later I heard from Colonel Irby that he had visited
this same nest in 1873 and had watched a pair of Black Vultures
repairing and relining it at the end of February. Colonel Irby
further told me how, in 1874, the year before my visit, a pair of
White-shouldered Eagles had occupied this nest and had relined it
with fresh green boughs, in accordance with their usual custom ; the
nest when he saw it, contained no eggs.

The reason of this we learned from our Spanish attendant,
Juan Palo, a famous old local sportsman well known to successive
shooting parties from the Rock between 1869 and 1879. He
told us how in this same year he had taken three eggs from
this nest, and that one of them was abnormally small and resembled

200 The White-Shouldered Eagle

the yolkless egg we had found. Since 1875 | have visited many
nests of the White-shouldered Eagle, and every one of these,
without exception, has been lined with fresh green branches of cork
or wild olive. Hence I can only imagine that the nest we found had
been repaired and lined by Storks.

The Eagles nested in the same tree in the marsh in 1876
and on several occasions I saw them circling above the plains
near it. Later in the summer the old alder and a greater part
of the jungle was destroyed by a big fire and the Eagles there-
upon occupied an old Stork’s nest in a lofty tree not half a mile
from their old sanctuary. On 23 February 1877 when snipe-
shooting I visited this spot. The tree was growing on the banks
of a stream and close alongside a ford much used by peasants who
tended the flocks and herds in the neighbourhood. It was a strangely
frequented spot for Eagles to choose but they no doubt, relied upon
the awkward nature of the tree. This, a fine black poplar with
wide-spreading boughs, had no branches for some 12 to 15 ft.
and was almost too large to swarm, its girth at over 5 ft. from the
ground exceeding 70 in. Somehow I managed to get a grip of
the bark and after a slippery scramble reached the lowest bough,
after which my progress upwards was easy enough. On arriving
at the great nest I experienced as before some difficulty in sur-
mounting the edge, since it projected overhead like the top of a
sailing ship. It was freshly lined with green branches but with-
out eggs. As I had to return to the Rock next day I gave my
henchman, Juan Palo, solemn injunctions to visit it later on. This
he did, but was unable to climb the tree or find anybody who could.

My descent from this tree was marked by a ludicrous episode
which it would be hard to experience in any country save Spain.
I had just slithered down the big trunk to the ground and was in
the act of picking up my gun which I had rested against a bush
before my climb, when I was startled by a frantic yell from a

Hunted by a Young Bull 201

Spaniard and, on looking round, saw a young bull—a two-year old
with short but sharp horns—coming straight at me. When |
caught sight of him he was coming down the track leading to the
ford and not ten yards from me and was closely followed by a
mounted cattle-guard armed with the usual long lance or garrocha
who was riding his horse out for all it was worth in his endeavour
to turn the young bull before it reached the ford. I made one
bound at the tree and in spite of its size managed somehow to
get a grip about 6 ft. from the ground but could do no more,
not even turn my head. There I clung much as a cat does
when hunted up a big tree by a dog and incapable of further effort.
The bull passed close below me with a rush scattering mud and
water all around and on gaining the open ground some 30 yards
beyond wheeled round and came to bay. As _ his pursuer
emerged from the scrub bordering the stream, the young savage
made a gallant charge on him, but was turned easily by the
sharp steel-pointed garrocha, which struck him at the correct spot
high on the shoulder, upon which he galloped off, the horseman
following in hot pursuit. Such scenes are of common occurrence
in the wilder parts of Andalucia where it is the custom to keep the
young bulls in herds until they are 3 years old. From time to time
the owners have these herds closely inspected and subdivided for
various purposes and on all such occasions the mounted guards
with their long lances play an important part. During the process
of ‘‘cutting out” some particular young bull from the midst of a
herd it not uncommonly happens that it breaks away and_ has
to be pursued and rounded in, and it so chanced that upon the day
I visited the Eagle’s nest one of the rebellious ones came my way.
At this time a famous herd of bulls, a fighting strain known as
that of La viuda Varéla, occupied this portion of the country and
after sundry adventures and escapes we learned to regulate our
movements and birdsnesting forays so as not to disturb the older

202 The White-Shouldered Eagle

bulls, which alone were troublesome. Nowadays bulls destined
for the Plaza are no longer herded in this district and their place
has been taken by more peaceful animals politely described as
being mansos, “mild-mannered” or “gentle,” in contradistinction
to their more formidable relatives who are known as 6éravos,
wild or savage. But I am forced to say that this term is but
a relative one, and from an intimate knowledge, at times far too
intimate, of the ways and customs of Spanish bulls in the more
remote parts of Spain, | would strongly recommend any wandering
Englishman to give any he may meet a wide berth. Living as |
do so much among these animals, | naturally enough have learnt
how to carry on my own pursuits without annoying them. But it
may be taken as an axiom that it is better not to approach any
bull, no matter how “mild-mannered” he may be, if on foot.
There is something in an Englishman’s dress and voice which
irritates the Spanish cattle; this, added to the peculiarly English
habit of stopping and pointing a finger at an object of interest is
calculated to upset the equanimity of the “mildest” bull. A fine
seven-year-old bull, an old friend and neighbour of mine, who
endured all such familiarities, and was reputed to be absolutely
manso, was however unable to submit to the impertinence of being
snapshotted at 25 ft. Luckily there was a wall hard by!

But I must return to my tree, where I left myself clinging. On
descending from my uncomfortable perch I went to pick up my
gun, but it was gone! I could scarcely believe my eyes for less
than a minute before I had seen it peacefully resting against the
bush. Since it was clear that neither the bull nor the man had
carried it off, | surmised that somehow or other it must have fallen
into the stream hard by. There was a deep pool close to the bole
of the tree and so, wading into this, nigh waist-deep and feeling
with my feet, I eventually trod on something hard which proved
to be the gun, It was evident that the bull as it rushed past me,

Reputed ‘“ Mild-mannered” Bulls 203

-had artistically “flicked” the gun from its position with his
horn. Fortunately he was too much occupied to pay any attention
to me. My shooting companions, who had been lunching in a
place of safety 100 yards from the tree and who had a_ full
view of the exhibition I had so unexpectedly provided for them
now joined me and were naturally much amused which was, con-
sidering the condition of my gun and myself, more than I was.

Early in February 1878 I saw this same pair of White-
shouldered Eagles building a big nest in another small alder tree
in the great marsh not far from the first nest I described. From
this three most splendidly marked eggs were taken, of which one
was unluckily broken. As a general rule the eggs of this species
are usually white with a few faint rufous marks. But on no less
than three occasions | have obtained beautifully marked eggs,
richly clouded with purple and spotted and blotched with rufous
brown. In size they are as a rule, decidedly smaller than
those of the Golden Eagle, the largest I have ever taken,
measuring 2°9 in. by 2.3 in. All the same some Golden Eagles’
eggs are smaller than some of the larger eggs of the White-
shouldered Eagle.

Upon showing my coloured sets of White-shouldered Eagles’
eggs to the late Mr. Henry Seebohm, so convinced was he from
their size and markings that they must belong to the Golden Eagle
that he urged me over and over again to re-mark them as such.
Since, as this account shows, I was well acquainted both with the
Eagles which laid the eggs and with all the circumstances of their
nesting, I naturally enough steadfastly refused to do this. It is
a good example of the perils which beset any attempt to identify
eggs by their markings and size and has made me ever since
view all collections which have been rearranged by so-called experts
with suspicion.

In 1879 these Eagles nested in the big tree of 1877, whence |

204 The White-Shouldered Eagle

obtained two very finely-coloured eg
Crown Prince Rudolf.
It is now thirty years since I have molested these Eagles.

gs. These I gave to the late

During that time the deep morass I describe which served as a
regular paradise for Savi's Warbler and other birds of similar
habits has been drained and the dense jungle cleared away and
the whole country become much more frequented. The Eagles
have however remained faithful to the locality and from time to
time I have seen them sailing overhead. In 1907 I spent a day
at the old spot and was rejoiced to find that they were still nesting
in the vicinity.

I will now give my experiences of another pair of these grand
birds which have nested to my knowledge in the cork-oak trees in
one of the great ravines in the sierra for thirty-five years. I first
saw them in 1875, but five years passed before I got their eggs,
a handsomely-coloured pair, in March 1880. Fourteen years
passed before I was once again in this same valley and there, sure
enough, were the Eagles nesting peacefully in a cork tree not
30 ft. above the ground. This nest was the largest I ever saw
measuring 8 ft. 6 in. by 5 ft. and was evidently the result of many
years’ work, the newer and inhabited portion being built on the
edge of a former nest which had slid from its position, hence the
elliptical shape. It was lined with masses of freshly cut cork-oak
branches and contained two eggs, hardly marked at all, in fact, of
the normal colour. At the time I was anxious to secure a live
Eagle of this species, so having replaced the eggs by a couple
of fowl’s eggs, I set my trap—a circular pole trap without teeth and
with the jaws well padded with chamois leather—at the spot where
the Eagle entered the nest. According to my usual custom the
trap was secured by about 30 yards of stout line to a dead bough
which lay on the ground below the tree. Concealing myself in
some high heather about 300 yards distant, 1 waited on events.

A Well-deserved Failure 205

Very soon the female Eagle returned and, alighting on the edge of
the nest, walked in. Next minute she dashed off, and for a second
I imagined that she had seen the trap and taken alarm. Not
so, however, for after flying about 25 yards, she began to flap

heavily, and then, losing her equilibrium, fell downwards. Rushing

NEST OF WHITE-SHOULDERED EAGLE IN SPANISH OAK.

up to the spot, I found her dangling, some 6 ft. clear of the ground
and held in the trap by one foot. As I closed on her I endeavoured
to tear off my coat to throw over her, but missing my footing took
a tremendous fall heels over head among the rocks and heather.

When I recovered myself and looked up, she was gone!

206 The White-Shouldered Eagle

Apparently my near approach caused her to make a supreme
effort to free herself and free herself she did and got clear away
unhurt. Although at the time I was sorely disappointed, I have
never since ceased to be glad that she escaped me. In fact I can
hardly realize now how I could ever have attempted such an act
of cruelty as trapping an adult bird accustomed from its earliest
days to roam above that glorious country.

This Eagle was in the normal adult plumage, very dark brown
all over, save for the nape of the neck, the white shoulders and the
richly barred tail of greys and browns. Its mate, which I constantly
watched perched on a rocky summit hard by the nest, was, on the
other hand, of sheeny blackness.

The pair still frequent the same district and I have seen them
in occupation of four alternative sites, all in the same valley, and
all in cork-oak trees varying in height from 15 ft. to 30 ft. I have
only once molested them since 1894, when the nest contained three
dirty white eggs, much stained with yellow (which I take to be
from the fresh green cork-oak leaves), and with a very few faint
red markings. One of these eggs had been perforated by the
Eagle’s sharp claws, a not uncommon occurrence with eggs of
raptorial birds.

Their favourite food is hares and rabbits, they also take Par-
tridges and other birds. In one nest I found a Green Plover whilst
Dr. Stark found a nest containing the remains of no less than seven
rabbits, three Partridges, and a Black-winged Stilt. When lying
up for geese and duck during the winter months I have con-
stantly seen them hunting over the /agunas and swampy lands
adjacent, but I have never had the good luck to see them pursue
or capture any waterfowl although their appearance always seems
to strike terror into the big flocks of Wigeon and Teal, causing
them to rise with a roar of wings and settle again.

Being essentially birds of the plains, they are much addicted

Out-manceuvring an Eagle 207

to alighting on some stone on the summit of the low undulating
hills bordering on the marshes, where they remain motionless for
an indefinite period, prior to resuming their circlings overhead.
Only last November, when riding across some hills on my way to
shoot Snipe, I saw one in such a situation, and so intensely black
did it appear in the sunlight that until [ got out my field-glasses, |
imagined it to be a Raven! Simply as a matter of curiosity I tried
to see how near I could approach it, by means of the old scouting
stratagem of pretending not to notice it so long as I was in view,
and, when once out of sight under cover of a fold of the ground,
galloping my horse straight for the spot. The ruse was successful,
and so completely deceived was this most wary bird that | rode
within 30 yards before it saw me. It was blowing half a gale at
the time and the Eagle having to rise against the wind came
flapping within 15 yards of me. It was truly a magnificent
sight to see such a splendid bird thus striving with the elements at
such close range. In the brilliant sunlight, the light golden of the
neck and the snowy whiteness of the shoulders formed a striking
contrast to the rich black brown of the back and wings. Small
wonder is it then that the Spaniards all know it by the name of
Aguila negra, the Black Eagle.

Amid the sierras, the Golden Eagle, which also looks dark when
on the wing, is known by this name, whilst in the regions where
both species are found, the addition of de dos ardoles (of the trees) and
of de las rocas well describes their normal habits, whilst now and
again I have met country folk who were sufficiently acquainted with
both birds to describe them as Agurla imperial and Agutla real.

As a naturalist it has often struck me how every nation is
addicted to dubbing birds and animals red, black, or white, irrespec-
tive of their actual coloration. No doubt such descriptions are
derived from mere heraldic expressions which are paralleled in
our language by the Red, White, or Black Lions of our hostelries.

208 The White-Shouldered Eagle

Everybody has heard of the Prussian Orders of the Black and Red
Eagle and of the difficulty certain folk have to avoid one or other
of these honours, which according to report is only equalled by
that of escaping death. But in some parts of Europe the existence
of a real Black Eagle not merely of an Eagle which in certain
lights and in a certain condition of plumage has a black appearance
is with many an article of faith. Nowhere is this more implicitly
accepted than among the ranks of a certain regiment in our Service,
which was awarded as a distinctive badge a “ Black Eagle” of
heraldic fame, in recognition of its services.

Many years ago I chanced to be dining with this regiment and,
as ill-luck would have it, was asked if I had ever met with the
famous Black Eagle during my ornithological researches. I was
obliged to say ‘‘ No,” and weakly added that I had never vet made
out what bird had given rise to the heraldic title. The officers
hastened to assure me that the Black Eagle was a well-known
although extremely rare species only to be found in a remote part
of the Carpathians and that their late colonel had gone to immense
trouble and expense to obtain a specimen to present to the regiment.
Soon the mess sergeant appeared bearing a framed and glazed case
in which was an embroidered satin cloth bearing the ‘* Honours” of
the corps and in the centre a most imposing black bird set up in
heraldic style with wings outspread on either side of its head and
legs and feet in the approved attitude. Black it was most certainly,
inky black, in fact, there was a great deal more black than of eagle
about it. Suffice to say that the wily purveyor of this weird and
hitherto undescribed species had obeyed the peremptory military
order of the colonel to provide him at all costs and without delay
with a Black Eagle, by artistically attaching a pair of Raven's
wings, legs and feet to the head of a hideous Egyptian Vulture
which he had dyed black asa coal. There was no possible escape
from it.

A Regimental “ Honour ” 209
Some of the most conspicuous and unmistakable external
characteristics of the Eagles are their oval nostrils, feathered legs
and long powerful claws, but here was the loathsome white
Vulture, so well known to all travellers in the East, defiantly
parading its peculiarly elongated beak with narrow slit for a
nostril, whilst its partner in the deception, the Raven, unblush-
ingly exhibited its shiny black bare legs and short blunt claws.
I sometimes wonder how far the resourceful provider of this
unique species penetrated into the Carpathians !

eo SS SSS

SP = —— —
Shee: Se ee ae

210

CHAPTER V.

THE BLACK VULTURE (Vultur monachus).

The largest tree-nesting raptorial bird—A difficult stalk—Size and weight—
Seeking the nest—Expedition to Old Castile—Great pine forests—A
prolonged search—Find a nest—An awkward tree—A repulse—Doroteo
the woodman—Return to the attack—Ascent of tree—Marvellous rope work
—Find a second nest —An interesting ascent—Description of nest and egg—
Photographing with “ fixed focus’’ hand camera.—On the tree-top. How
the distance was obtained—Find a third nest—Tree 130 ft. high—Kite
flying as a means of reaching nests—Captain D’Arcy Irvine’s line-throwing
eun—A ride through the pine forest—Los Siete Picos—Puerto de Guadar-

rama.

HIS majestic bird is perhaps the best
example of the paradoxes which so
often confront the students of wild
birds in their haunts.

The popular belief that all the
great European Vultures habitually
resort to cliffs for their nesting-
stations is in the case of the
Black Vulture rudely shattered. For
although the majority of Vultures do
certainly nest in cliffs, the Black
Vulture as regularly resorts to trees.
In Europe the Griffons invariably
nest in cliffs, as do the Bearded
Vultures, and the Neophrons (or

Egyptian Vultures) usually resort to
the cliffs. But the Black Vulture is

"uul 1) ny Du é in), i 1
IMNLINA MOV TE

A Great Tree-Nester 211

always a tree-nester. In situations which favour the species, such
as the great pine woods of Central Spain, it commonly selects
some tall tree on which it constructs a great fabric of sticks
and boughs. But, failing big trees, it will resort to smaller ones,
and I have myself seen one in a stunted alder tree not 20 ft.
above the ground, and have heard, on the excellent authority of
the late Dr. Stark, of another in a small cork tree at about the
same height. The Black Vulture, whether by nature of its sable
plumage or general appearance, always gives one the impression
of being somewhat of a higher-class bird than the Griffon. Its
head, although not feathered, is covered with close-growing dark
brown down, which, combined with its dark ruff, gives it some-
thing of the appearance of wearing a friar’s cowl, hence its name
of monachus. The result is that it is less repulsive than is Gyps
fulvus. I(t belongs to the family of the true Vultures, whereas
the Griffon is merely a poor relation of these more august birds.
Still, it cannot be denied that in habits and customs there is
nothing whatever to choose between them. In fact, the Griffons,
in the southern part of the Peninsula, and the Black Vultures,
which are found in their greatest numbers in middle Spain, carry
out identical duties in the necropolis line in the regions they
respectively occupy.

The first time I set eyes on a Black Vulture I was riding
across the great plain of La Janda on an autumn day and
became aware of a bevy of Griffons engaged on the carcass of a
horse, among them I saw what I imagined to be a Raven. As
I drew nearer, a fracas arose among the big birds and they
scattered outwards whilst my supposed Raven’ was left in
possession of the carcass, and I then saw it was a huge Black
Vulture. Reining up, I watched the Griffons closing in around
and each time they interfered with the solitary black bird it
made a lunge at them and drove them back. I rode close enough

212 The Black Vulture

to see the sable plumage and great size of the bird in contrast
to the two dozen or so of Griffons around him before they all
took wing.

At the time I was ignorant of the existence of the species,
for they are rarely to be seen in south-western Andalucia. Since
then, from time to time I have come across them in that region
but, so far as I am aware, there are only one, or at most two,
pairs which thus venture to intrude upon what is universally
admitted by the well-regulated laws of Vultures’ society to be the
freehold property of Gyps fulvus.

Two years after this my first sight of the Black Vulture, I was
shooting duck down the banks of a river when I sighted a huge
black bird in the open plain, some hundreds of yards distant.
The plain was absolutely level and had been recently ploughed
up and it was clearly impossible to find any cover to aid me in
getting within shot. After lying down and watching the bird for
some time, I noticed that it was facing the wind and seemed to
be intent on some object to its front. The idea struck me that
possibly I might be able to approach it from behind and so |
retraced my steps along the river bank until I arrived at a point
exactly down-wind of the great bird and some 300 to 400 yards
from it. Lying down, I commenced a long and exhausting stalk,
ever keeping my eye on the bird and when it turned its head,
which it did at intervals, lying prone and waiting on events.
Finally I got within go yards before it detected my presence
and, as it rose, I gave it two barrels of No. 4 shot. By chance
I severed some tendon in one of its great wings, for it crashed
down and after striking the ground recovered itself and set off
to flap away across the plough-land. Then ensued a rare chase,
I following in hot pursuit and firing ineffectually at it from time
to time. At last it stopped and turned, and as I closed on it
it made a gallant attempt at a charge. It was an immense female,

Size, Span of Wings and Weight 213

dark brown above with richer browns on its wings, the big
primaries and tail feathers being brownish black. It weighed
18 Ib., being 45 in. in length with an expanse of wings of just
under 9 ft. I skinned and preserved this bird and have it now
stuffed in my house. It was fasting when I shot it, and so its
seeming lethargy was not due to a recent heavy meal as might
have been imagined. Rather would I attribute its allowing me
to creep up within shot to the fact that a westerly gale was
blowing and the bird had alighted to rest in the middle of the
great level plain and suspected no danger. It was the first and
last Black Vulture I ever shot at.

In Spain the Black Vulture always strikes larger on the eye
than does the Griffon and as far as my observation goes, it
always is a larger bird, being severai inches longer and with
a wider expanse of wing. On the other hand, according to
Colonel Irby and others, in India the Griffons are of a larger
race than those in Spain, whilst the Black Vultures are of the
same size as those found in Europe.

Allan Hume, in his “ Notes on Indian Birds,” is one of the very
few writers on ornithology who has placed on record the sizes
and weights of the birds he has described. I would commend
a study of this book to all sportsmen or naturalists who are
interested in the size and weight of birds.

Hume gives the weight of the Black Vultures in India as
from 12 lb. to 20 |lb., with 14 lb. as an average; this is much the
same as that of the Spanish birds. Nevertheless it has been
stated that in Spain they have been shot “weighing between 2 st.
to 3 st.” (28 lb. to 42 |b.), but in justice to those concerned
it must be admitted that the weight thus given was merely
“estimated.”

The average expanse of wing of these fine birds is from 8 ft.
6 in. tog ft. Hume records a big female of 9 ft. 10 in,

214 The Black Vulture

The term “Black” Vulture, although quite appropriate to the
birds when in their haunts, is by no means borne out by those
often seen in museums. The young birds are very dark, so dark
indeed at times as to appear at a distance as dark as Ravens. As
they reach maturity they gradually grow lighter until old adult
birds are quite light cinereous brown, especially on their shoulders
and scapulars.

To visit the nest of the Black Vulture was for many years
one of my most earnest desires. So far back as the spring of
1875 I came across a disused one.

This nest was destroyed in a great fire, as described in the
last chapter, the following year. The Black Vultures thereupon
moved to a small cork tree in the adjacent sierra.

Afterwards from time to time I came across one of the birds,
now sitting out in the plain or perched in a cork tree in company
with Neophrons and, once only, on a crag in the remote sierras.
But I could not locate the nest. Eventually it became evident
that if I intended to take with my own hands the egg of this
species I must seek for it in the districts of Spain where it was
most commonly to be met with, As events proved, it was fortunate
that I did so.

It was in the spring of 1899, when serving on the Staff at home,
that I managed to get two weeks leave of absence on ‘‘ very urgent
private affairs” and the question arose how best to employ the
precious hours at my disposal. After much consultation with
Colonel Irby and Dr. Stark, and reference to Lord Lilford’s notes,
I came to the conclusion that my best chance was to strike straight
for Old Castile, where on the pine-clad slopes of the mountains the
Black Vulture was known to nest. There was no time for paltering
with coasting steamers and having secured a companion I set off
across Channel zvza Paris and Irun, for Segovia.

The extensive mountain range, known as the Sierra de Guadar-

The great Pine Woods of Old Castile 15
rama, which runs east and west some thirty miles north of Madrid,
was the scene of our operations. The lower spurs, especially those
on the northern side, are covered with vast pine forests extending
for many square miles. At the time of our visit there was still
a great deal of snow on the whole mountain chain, but the weather
was beautifully fine and the sun not too hot ; in fact, the climate, at
an elevation of 3,000 ft. to 5,000 ft. above the sea level, the usual
height for our expeditions, was as near perfect as possible.

The forests we explored are Crown property, and are most
carefully guarded and administered by a regular corps of forest
guards. They are dressed in a very smart dark brown uniform
with scarlet facings and silver buttons, their wide-brimmed som-
breros being adorned with the silver cockade of the Royal Family.
They are all mounted and carry a small-bore carbine in a bucket
on the off-side of their saddles, and on the near-side a heavy
woodman’'s axe, used for blazing trees.

The methods of forestry in these districts are simple enough,
and, like most Spanish systems, are based on leaving Nature to do
as much as possible of the work. As the pine trees grow up, the
lower branches are lopped off at about 6 in. to 1 ft. from the
trunk with the result that thousands of pines of all sizes are to
be found, with stems of marvellous straightness and free from
branches.

Since the Vultures affect the largest trees and generally those
with tall, branchless trunks, difficult to climb, it follows that sooner
or later the day comes when the woodman places the fatal “ blaze”
on the stem of some proud monarch of the forest which has afforded
a safe asylum to the great birds of prey for scores of years. And
so, year by year, the older and more favourite nesting-places of
the Black Vulture are destroyed and the birds are forced to seek
fresh sites in other districts.

Having established ourselves in quarters some miles from

216 The Black Vulture

Segovia, and well up in the sierra, we set to work to make the
best of the time available—one week only—before returning north-
wards. One morning early in April we started on horseback with
our local guide (a woodman), in quest of the coveted nest. We
had already experienced several defeats, having for three days
unsuccessfully explored various portions of the forest adjacent to
our quarters. After following the high road for a couple of miles,
we struck to the right through a small village. Beyond this we
entered the oak-scrub, which covers the low foothills in this
region. It was a delightful morning, cool and fresh, although the
sun, even at 9 a.m., was warm enough on our backs.

After ascending for about 1,200 ft. we struck into the Azvar or
pine forest. This, like most forests of a like nature, has very little
undergrowth ; hence movement is possible in every direction,
save where the steepness of the ground or some outcrop of rock
or mass of detritus from the crags above renders a detour necessary.

The utter absence of all life in these great forests is very
remarkable and must impress even the least observant. The only
small birds seen were the Chaffinch and Great Titmouse. From
time to time the sharp cry of the White-shouldered Eagle or the
querulous call of a Buzzard or Kite broke the silence. Now and
again a roe-deer might be seen watching us from a distance before
it darted away noiselessly through the labyrinth of great pine
trees.

After following a track for some miles we came to a valley
where the gwardas, or Royal foresters, had reported Black Vultures
to have nested in former years. We now spread out to about
200 yards apart and rode silently through the wood, carefully
examining the tops of the larger trees for nests.

Fortune shortly favoured us, for suddenly our woodman, who
rode in the centre between us so as to indicate the direction of
our advance, gave the pre-arranged signal and on joining him we

Find a Nest in a Tall Pine 217

found he had dismounted at the foot of a fir tree, one of the largest
in that portion of the forest. It was well over too ft. in height
and at the summit was an immense nest of sticks. A glance
showed us that it was a nest in occupation, for it bore unmis-
takable signs of recent repairs and additions, well known to those
experienced in the manners and customs of the great raptorial birds.
But the next question—by no means easy to answer—was whether
it was merely repaired ready for use or whether it already contained
the much-desired egg, for Black Vultures, like Griffons, only lay
one egg.

Having picketed the horses and ascended the steep _ hillside
until the great nest was very little above our level, we proceeded
to make a careful inspection of it. My companion, who carried
a powerful binocular telescope, soon called out that he could see
a ‘yellow thing” in the nest, which he declared seemed to move
upon the trunk of the tree being vigorously struck with an axe.
Sure enough the yellow thing proved to be nothing less than the
crown of the head of a Black Vulture. A few more vigorous blows
of the axe caused the bird to take alarm. Raising herself in the
nest she opened her wings and sailed away. So far our search had
been successful for it was now quite clear that the nest was occupied.
The next thing was how to get up to it?

The tree was about 8 ft. in circumference at the height of a man
above the ground and grew smaller imperceptibly. No sound
branch broke the smoothness of the trunk for over 60 ft. but at
little over half that height the decaying stumps of branches pro-
jected for a few inches from the bole at rare intervals. These were
so small and apparently so rotten that we disregarded them and con-
centrated all our energies on endeavouring to throw a light line over
the lowest sound branch. After an hour's ineffectual struggles, in
which our most powerful casts were hardly two-thirds of the height,
I was compelled to abandon the attempt and acknowledge myself

218 The Black Vulture

fairly beaten. What that meant to a keen ornithologist, who had for
over thirty years been accustomed to climb to and take every
nest he wanted, no words can describe. Whilst we were engaged
in these futile efforts, the old Vulture returned several times and
swept past the nest not 50 yards above us.

Knowing that the woodsmen were in the habit of climbing the
trees when engaged in lopping off the lower branches, I besought
our guide to find me one who could escalade the big pine, which

BLACK VULTURE LEAVING NEST.

had, so far, baffled all our endeavours. This, however, was without
avail, for he roundly declared that no living man could climb such
a tree. Remonstrance was useless, and my assurances that, if he
could only find a man who could throw a rope up, | would myself
gladly ascend, were received with the response that if I did such
a foolish thing I would be most certainly killed, and that he would
be no party to the affair. Our return march that night is one
of the things one would gladly forget. I had embarked on a

Defeated, but not beaten 219

journey of some 2,000 miles with the definite purpose of taking
the egg of the Black Vulture, and here I was in the wretched
position of having found the nest and seen the bird, knowing well
that the nest contained the object of my desires, but baffled by
a wretched pine tree. Horrible misgivings as to whether it was
really such an impossible tree would persist in intruding themselves
upon my mind.

As a forlorn hope on my return to our village that night
I sent round word that I wanted a man who could climb a fzxo
which was reputed to be unscalable and that a suitable reward
would be bestowed on anyone who could do it. After a truly
miserable night, during which dreams of impossible trees with
rotten branches and of inadequate ropes which at intervals landed
me in appalling situations, made any attempts to sleep almost unen-
durable, I got up at dawn and made some cocoa for myself and
comrade.

Whilst completing preparations for our start I was agreeably
surprised to receive a visit from our guide of the previous day who
said he had found a man who could climb any tree in the f:nar /
The latter was at once introduced—a_hard-faced and somewhat
well-fleshed individual of any age between 25 and 50. He told me
he was a woodman who had been engaged in lopping the pine-stems
since he was a child. His name was Doroteo. To my anxious
query as to whether he could pass a rope over the branch in the
Vulture’s tree, he made the truly Spanish reply of Puede ser,
‘““Maybe.” The still more aggravating national response to
my question as to whether he could climb the tree (which he
professed, by the way to know well) was, ¢ Que sé yo? Veremos.
“How can I tell? We shall see.”

Arrived at the scene of the operations of the previous day,
I sighted my camera on the nest, whilst Doroteo made the woods
resound with blows from his axe on the great tree. Soon the old

220 The Black Vulture

Vulture took alarm and launched herself from the edge of the nest,
my camera duly registering her in the act.

And now began a performance which for skill, nerve, daring
and readiness of resource I have never seen surpassed. Taking a
100 ft. length of my Alpine rope (14 in.), Doroteo, by a skilful
cast, hitched it over one of the small rotten-looking stumps pro-
jecting from the trunk some 30 ft. above the ground. Holding
one end firmly, by a neat underhand throw he caused the

DOROTEO REACHES THE FIRST STAGE, 40 FT. FROM GROUND.

rope already hitched overhead to run up the trunk and catch on
a second stump some 6 ft. above the first. Then walking round and
round the tree with the ends of the rope in either hand and carefully
studying the shape of the stem and the relative positions of the
stumps above, he slowly and surely, by a succession of the most
artistic jerks and casts, caused the rope gradually to creep up the
huge bole, like a thing of life, until it was securely looped over a
stump, about 6 in, in length, over 48 ft. above the ground. — [| men-

A Magnificent Tree-climb. 221

tion 48 ft., for I noted at the time that there was under 1 yard
of the 102 ft. of rope (doubled) left in Doroteo’s hands.

This was the conclusion of Act I.

Act II. commenced with a careful testing of the strength of the
stump on which the rope now rested, by means of a steady pull and
a few sharp jerks. After this Doroteo gravely handed the two
ends to our other man Augusto and proceeded to pull off his
boots and replace them by a pair of adpargatas or rope-soled
canvas shoes.

Our woodman, Augusto, now weighed down on the rope with
all his strength whilst Doroteo, moistening his palms, ascended it
hand over hand with his legs around the tree in the most approved
fashion until he reached a small stump about qo ft. from the ground
and a few feet below the one over which the rope was hitched.
Standing now erect on one foot on this precarious support, and with
the left arm round the tree so as to steady him, he carefully over-
hauled the rope until only a few feet remained overlapping the
branch above. Next, by an adroit twist, he jerked it off this branch
and proceeded to arrange the portion of rope in his hand into a
loop some 15 ft. in length.

These proceedings we watched from below with breathless
interest, for it seemed physically impossible for mortal man_ to
ascend any higher owing to the thickness of the trunk, which,
even at that great height from the ground was far too bi
any man to swarm.

e@ for

Doroteo, having arranged the rope to his satisfaction, now
manipulated the looped portion as does a sailor when about to
heave the lead from the chains of a vessel, and having by this
means got on a sufficient swing, he cast it upwards at a small
stump some 12 ft. above him. The cast failed—by an _ inch
apparently! Again and again he gathered up his rope and
essayed to throw it up, but without success. It was only too

The Black Vulture

No
i)
NO

clear that he was getting pumped, for the expenditure of energy
on the part of a man thus balanced on one foot only, in such a
situation, and using all his strength, is very great.

Just as we were in despair as to his ultimate success the rope,
which he had kept circling round and round, struck the bough,
and the loop overlapped, it hanging down a foot or so. To
us below this seemed to be a failure only in another form, but
we were vastly mistaken. Letting go one portion of the rope he

DOROTEO NEARING THE NEST.

grasped the other as low as he could reach, and by a combined
turn of the wrist and upward jerk, as impossible to describe as
it would be to imitate, he deftly made ove part of the loop “ flick”
off the end of the stump, thus causing the bight of the rope to
remain securely looped round it.

After testing the strength of this new point, he grasped the
two portions of the rope and climbed up as before. Repeating this
extraordinary process once or twice again, he at last reached the

Doroteo reaches the Nest 223

lowest branch of the great tree. Here, after carefully securing
his rope—for without it his return to earth, save in the form of
a meal for the Vultures, would have been improbable—he leisurely
climbed up the remainder of the tree and reached the nest. The
enormous size of the latter can be realized by noting the figure
of Doroteo in the accompanying photograph. In fact it was no
easy matter for a man to get into it, since it overhung on every
side some 3 ft. or 4 ft. However, by breaking away a portion
immediately above him he at last effected an entrance, and shortly
afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing him hold up the
well-won ege for our inspection.

I was anxious to follow Doroteo up the tree with the aid of
the rope and photograph the nest, but was dissuaded by my com-
rade, who wisely remarked that the tree was very unsuitable for
photographic work, and that in all probability we should find
another nest where a hand-camera with a non-focusing lens, such
as I then carried, could be used with better effect.

We now sent up a bag containing a tin box, in which to pack
the ege safely. It speaks for the height of the tree that 102 ft.
of rope only just sufficed to lower our prize. Doroteo now effected
his descent in the same splendid style in which he had previously
ascended.

Mounting our horses, we proceeded along the steep declivities
through the apparently interminable maze of pine trees in quest
of more nests. Nor were we disappointed, for within a mile of
the first nest we came upon a second, placed on the very
summit of a pine tree, the top of which had been apparently
struck by lightning, or broken off during one of the furious gales
which sweep the valleys of the Sierra Guadarrama in winter-time.
Whatever the cause, the result had been to form almost an ideal
spot for a big nest, the branches of the great pine spreading out
and offering convenient support to it.

224 The Black Vulture

So steep was the hillside along which our horses were picking
their way that we could easily see the old bird sitting on
the nest on a level with us, and not 100 yards away. ‘This
tree was somewhat easier to escalade than the first one and
before long we had a rope securely passed over a bough about
40 ft. above the ground. With the aid of this I was soon able

AUTHOR IN BLACK VULTURE’S NEST.

to ascend the otherwise unclimbable portion of the tree. Doroteo,
to whom such exercise was a matter of daily routine, accompanied
me and suggested that he should save me further exertions by
ascending to the nest. This proposal naturally did not commend
itself to me, as my primary object was to take an egg myself.
Leaving my satellite at a convenient point, | made my way
up the limbs of the pine, smooth and slippery with the sun of

The Pleasures of a ‘‘ Fixed-focus ” Camera

to
to
on

hundreds of years. Arrived at the nest, a brief scramble brought
me over the edge of the great platform of big sticks, and I saw
before me the object of my travels—a Black Vulture’s ege! The
nest was about 7 ft. in diameter with a good-sized depression

in the middle, lined with tufts of fine grasses, such as commonly

NEST AND EGG OF BLACK VULTURE.
From a photograph at about 7 ft. distance.

grow on stony hill-tops in Spain. In the centre of the hollow
lay the egg, whitish in ground colour and marked with dark
ferruginous spots, the possession of which had been my desire
for so many years.
I climbed on to the nest and had a good look round and it was
interesting to note what an extraordinarily commanding site the
nS)

226 The Black Vulture

Vultures had selected for their nest. So strongly was the big nest
built that it was an easy matter to stand on it, although the
slight oscillation of the tree made it somewhat awkward. My
friend took a shot at me with the camera at the moment when
I was triumphantly holding up the egg for him to see.

Sending down the line I had brought up with me, I hauled
up my camera. The difficulty which now presented itself was to
get at a sufficient distance to work with the non-focusing lens.
For this I required at least 7 ft. but from my position at the
edge of the nest the utmost distance I could get from the egg
was only 3 ft. Looking around, almost in despair, for some means
of increasing my distance, my eye fell on a branch which, starting
from the main trunk only 3 ft. below the nest ran out almost
horizontally. Not only did this branch thus afford a conveniently
situated foothold, but it ran in the direction of the sun. In other
words, if only I could work out along it for 5 ft. to 6 ft., I would
be able to take a photograph of the egg with the sun behind me.

The branch itself was none too large to stand upon, about the
thickness of a man’s thigh at first, but it rapidly got smaller, about
6 ft. out dividing into two branches, which drooped downwards.
I saw that if I went out along it more than 2 ft. from the nest I
should have no handhold to depend upon. Clearly the only
possible chance to work out along it with reasonable safety was
to bring a rope into play. Here again luck was on my side, for
projecting through the nest was a gnarled stump, evidently a por-
tion of the top of the shivered trunk. I was still wearing my canvas
sling round my body to which was attached my Alpine rope as
a life-line in case of a slip. I now passed a bight of my rope
round this stump, and gaining the branch, I stepped vey cautiously
backwards, paying out the rope with one hand and with the other
keeping my balance by a light touch on the edge of the nest, so
long as it remained within reach of me. When less than 6 ft. from

A Precarious Operation

to
to
“I

the egg the bough began to bend under my weight, and realizing

that it was unsafe to go out much further without being secured,
I returned and measuring

3 ft. more along the rope so as to give
me the legal minimum, viz., 7 ft., I made it fast at this point

BLACK VULTURE LEAVING NEST.

to my canvas sling. Then, gently withdrawing my ‘ Bull’s-eye”
from its leather case and hanging it round my neck ready for
action, I again edged out backwards, taking the strain on the

rope slowly and steadily until it became taut.

I was now over
7 ft. from the egg. It was a breathless moment as I pressed

228 The Black Vulture

the camera against my chest and pulled over the lever. In
order to make sure of my task, I repeated the whole process
thrice and was fortunate enough, in one case, to get not only a
picture of the nest and egg in the foreground, but of the snowy
summits of the Sierra de Guadarrama in the far distance beyond.
It is unnecessary to expatiate upon the relief it was to regain the
nest and once again to feel something firm to hold on to. I now
descended, and we ate our luncheon at a point about 100 yards
from the tree. During this time the old Vulture returned and
proceeded to sit diligently on the empty nest as though her egg
was still in it. On going towards the tree again, she rose up
in the nest, and, extending her great black wings, sailed away.
I obtained a photograph of her at this moment, the nest and bird
standing up in good relief against the snow-clad slopes of the
Sierra on the far distant side of the valley.

Before leaving the district we came across several other nests
only one of which was tenanted. This was at the summit of one
of the loftiest pine trees I have ever seen, by rough measurement
over 130 ft. in height. A sketch of this tree, taken on the spot,
appears at the beginning of this chapter. For over 60 ft. there
was no friendly stump over which to cast a line, and the first sound
branches were well over 1oo ft. from the ground.

We found this nest by watching a valley on the south-western
slopes of the Guadarrama from a point high up on the hillside,
considerably above the level of the nest. With my telescope we
watched both old birds enter and leave it, but the distance was too
great to make sure whether it contained an egg or not.

From the movements of the birds it seemed as if they were
still engaged in preparing the nest for laying, and, subsequently,
we made our way to the foot of the tree. Owing to the great girth
of the trunk of this pine, and the absence of branches, Doroteo
at once declared the tree to be, without question, impossible, and

Line Throwing over Lofty Trees 229

we did not even attempt it. And impossible it doubtless was from
his point of view, and a more intrepid and skilful tree-climber I
never met.

Owing to the somewhat lonely position of this tree, given a fair
wind, it would be quite possible to get a line over the top of it
by means of flying a kite, and had we remained in the neighbour-
hood a few days longer I should assuredly have tried this. To
those who have not heard of it I may say at once that the idea
is not original. I first obtained it, many years ago, from reading
how a British Bluejacket, during our occupation of Egypt following
on the campaign of 1801, succeeded in climbing Pompey’s Pillar
at Alexandria by such means.

This kite-flying method of getting a line over an awkward tree
is, of course, not suitable if it be surrounded by others, as with
the first Vulture’s nest we visited. To get a rope over such a tree
my own panacea would be to employ one of the late Captain
D’Arcy Irvine’s line-throwing guns. Were I at the beginning,
instead of nearing the end, of my tree-climbing career I should
certainly look upon one of these ingenious weapons as an essential
article among my birdsnesting equipment. With the aid of one,
lent me by the inventor in 1895, I found it quite simple to throw
a line with accuracy over a selected bough in a lofty elm tree.
Once the line, which is carried by a stick, has been shot over the
required spot, it is, of course, a simple matter to haul the necessary
ropes over it and to make the ascent.

I left these beautiful wooded mountains of the Guadarrama
with genuine regret. Brief as was our stay among them, they
daily gave us new experiences, and we saw much of absorbing
interest.

Very fresh in my memory are the rides in the great pine
forest through apparently never-ending vistas of huge and serried
tree-stems, as now we threaded our way noiselessly over the deep

230 The Black Vulture

soft carpeting of sweet-smelling fir-needles, or another time urged
our horses with noisy clatter across the face of some steep, rocky
slide of débris from the crags far above. From time to time our
advance would be barred by some natural obstacle which obliged

us to make a wide detour. Thus the hillsides at places became

ONE OF THE SIETE PICOS.

A Summit of the Sierra de Guadarrama.

so steep as to be unrideable and compelled us to seek a less
slippery track. At others, fallen pines lay about in wild confusion,
some prone on the ground, over which our horses could step,
others supported at various angles by trees still standing, and under
which we passed. Or, again, we would come to a combination

of the two obstacles, where an avalanche of loosened rock from

The Summit of the Guadarrama 231

the steep crags high above had swept a path through the pines,
tearing many of them from the ground and creating an impassable
barrier.

Sometimes our path would follow the course of some noisy
torrent, forcing its way down amid great masses of grey boulders,
and at places forming quiet pools in which were small trout.
We learnt that these streams had repeatedly been stocked with
fish, but that before they could attain any size, some predaceous
native, armed with the inevitable dynamite, came on the scene
and destroyed them.

Through the dark masses of foliage the snow-clad hillsides above
us could from time to time be seen, whilst over our heads was
always the intensely blue cloudless sky of Spanish spring-time.

The scenery is magnificent. From one of the summits of the
Siete Picos, a mass of black granite rocks, rounded and weathered
to the smoothest surface, and built up in horizontal masses, around
which the snow still lay deep, we could survey the plains of
Castile, seemingly at our feet.

One day, with the aid of a field-glass, we saw the dim outlines
of some of the larger buildings of the capital, distant from us some
thirty miles, whilst the famous Escurial, its massive walls and vast
rambling construction giving it the appearance of a town of itself,
lay glittering in the sunlight on the southern slopes of the Sierra
below us.

Nor were historic associations wanting, for close at hand
lay the famous pass, the Puerto de Guadarrama, through which
the tide of French invasion rolled in 1808, as well as those other
mountain roads which had witnessed the passage of the hosts
which Napoleon, in his wrath, had dispatched to annihilate the
audacious Moore, and which same roads, four years later, saw the
triumphant advance of Wellington’s army on Vitoria and France.

Whilst we were enjoying our marvellous bird's-eye view from

232 The Black Vulture

this lofty post, some 8,o00 ft. above the sea, and 5,000 ft. above
the plains below, a Golden Eagle came sailing past us and perched
on an adjacent pinnacle rock. Later on, a splendid Bearded
Vulture appeared, hunting steadily along the snow-line and paying
no attention to our presence, on the look-out, most probably, for
any carcass. or remains which might come to light as the snows
melted under the warm rays of the April sun.

233

V—ALONG THE SEA-CLIFFS.

CHP EK
A RIDE TO TRAFALGAR.

A by-gone race—Remains of ancient cities—In quest of Sea Eagles—An interest-
ing ride—The cliffs of Trafalgar—Ravens, sea-birds and Ospreys—An ideal
spring day—Arrival of migrants, Hoopoe and Great Spotted Cuckoo—
Flamingoes—Some cliff-dwellers—A marvellous panorama—Scene of the
greatest of sea fights.

HOSE who have passed through the
Straits of Gibraltar by daylight will
recall the yellow sandhills along
the coast of Spain and their back-

ground of jagged sierra between
Cape Trafalgar and Tarifa. Few
however realize that at one time
these now desolate wastes were
inhabited by a great race and that
more than one populous city
existed between Gades, the ancient
Cadiz, and Carteia, the Phoenician
city at the head of Gibraltar Bay.
In my wanderings among these
hills skirting the Atlantic, especi-
ally near the foreshore, I have come across remains of great
antiquity, fragments of walls, aqueducts and temples. There are
also the ruins of a great amphitheatre which according to the Jesuit
Father Julius Furgus, who visited them recently, could accommo-
date 50,000 persons, When this great city was destroyed and

234 A Ride to Trafalgar

who were the human destroyers is unknown. At present the sea
has encroached on one side and the great wreaths of wind-borne
drifting yellow sand have overwhelmed it from the other and little
is left visible to the casual visitor.

I rode along this coast on a brilliant day early in March 1908

in order to visit the cliffs near Cape Trafalgar where it was reported

A SUMMIT IN THE SIERRA ABOVE TRAFALGAR BAY.

that a pair of Sea Eagles nested. The story, an old one, dating
back for thirty years and more, was ever disbelieved by both Colonel
Irby and myself, still it was worth investigating more especially
as it made a very interesting expedition.

The Cliffs of Trafalgar 235

Starting at 6 o'clock, I reached the shores of Trafalgar Bay
two hours later near the ancient Moorish walled town of Zara
or Zahara. At a mountain corézjo near here I picked up some
Spanish friends, a farmer and his henchman, and we rode along
the strand to the river Barbate. After fording a deep tidal branch
of the river, a ferry-boat took us across the main stream to the
small town of Barbate, famous for its tunny fishery. Leaving
Barbate we followed the strand again for some distance until
it narrowed and we reached the point where the cliffs com-
menced, with the waves lapping at their foot. It now became
necessary to strike upwards so as to gain a track along the summit.
The low cliffs here are of yellow and red sandstone strata sur-
mounting beds of blue slider clay which had been exposed by sea
action and is in a constant state of disintegration. Northward
of this the cliffs become perfectly vertical and are of an older
and harder formation, but rotten and crumbling and very dangerous
to climb. The country immediately bordering on the sea-cliffs
is overgrown with cistus, lentiscus and cypress, wind-swept and
stunted. The ground is very rough and uneven, forming in-
numerable sheltered dells in which there was, at the time of our
visit, a great wealth of colour, masses of pale purple and white
rosemary, crimson snapdragon and large red thistles growing in
the grassy glades amid arbutus and butcher’s broom. — Further
inland are many square miles of sandhills covered in places with
a dense growth of stone pines, many of the trees being of con-
siderable size. Upon gaining the top of the cliffs, about goo ft.
above the sea, we dismounted and giving our horses to our attendant
to lead along a track at a safe distance from their edge, proceeded
to examine the cliffs. It was a matter of no small difficulty and
some risk to approach near enough to the edge to look over but
by taking advantage of sundry re-entrants and headlands formed
by big slips at various times and of smaller slips among the upper

236 A Ride to Trafalgar

strata, we succeeded in thoroughly examining the place and a very
interesting task it was. Soon the croak of a Raven told us that
these wily birds had an establishment in the vicinity and before
long we saw their nesting-place in a small sandstone cavern
weathered out in the face of the cliff above an horizontal slab.
Ravens are particularly addicted to sea-cliffs and like our Hooded
Crow of northern latitudes seem to find much to interest and occupy
them among the detritus cast up along the foreshore. On the
African coast I know of several nests thus situated in the same
range of cliffs. It may be a mere accident, but in southern Spain
of the many Ravens’ nests I have seen and visited the greater
majority are within a few miles of the shore. Possibly owing to
the numerous convenient nesting situations to be met with amid
the cliffs, only a comparatively small number nest in trees.

A few pair of Lesser Black-backed Gulls were nesting upon
the detached rocks along the foot of the cliffs and other common
sea-birds, such as Green Cormorants were also to be _ seen.
Presently the well-known cry of the Osprey was heard and we
saw one of these birds flying along some distance below. From
our successive points of vantage we had literally a bird’s-eye view
of all below us and during the morning saw five Ospreys’ nests, of
which only two were occupied. Doubtless the others were alter-
native sites used in other seasons since there were only two pairs
of Ospreys in possession of the locality. But no Sea Eagles did
I see, nor did I find any site which would have suited that species
nor could I find any report of any larger ‘‘ Eagle” than the Osprey
having ever been seen in the vicinity. A pair of Peregrines were
nesting on a ledge not far from us and were exceedingly wroth
at our presence; there were also many Kestrels and Blue-rock
Pigeons, as is ever the case in these parts.

It was an ideal Spanish spring day and circumstances all
agreed to make one take it in an ideal Spanish manner, in other

A Flight of Flamingoes 237

words, to find a comfortable spot amid the sweet-smelling cistus
and enjoy life whilst one could. It was now one o'clock and after
lunching I lit a cigar and waited and watched and very pleasant
it was. In the scrub around us the cheery little Dartford Warblers
were ever on the move, and now and again a brilliant Hoopoe, just
arrived from its winter sojourn in Africa, would flit past us with its
curious undulatory flight, showing the conspicuous black and white
barred wings; and, once, a beautiful Great Spotted Cuckoo (Coe-
cystes glandarius) also only just come ashore, alighted on a pine
tree close tous. Almost vertically below us the white surf of the
Atlantic swell was breaking against the masses of loose sandstone
fallen from the cliffs above, the water was intensely blue and clear
with here and there pale shades of green and dark purple showing
the presence of strips of sand and rock far below the surface.
Presently we espied a great crowd of big birds somewhat resembling
Wild Geese, flying close to the surface of the sea from the far distant
African shore. As they neared us the sun struck on their backs and
they became a mass of rose colour and we realized that they were
Flamingoes, no doubt some of the pioneers of the spring migration,
wending their way to the marismas of the Guadalquivir. As they
passed below us, flying close together, so close indeed that at places
their black-tipped wings seemed almost to touch and overlap, they
presented an extraordinary spectacle—surely one rarely seen by the
wandering naturalist—of a moving mass, crimson and rose and
white, streaming over the dancing blue wavelets below, which
changed its shape and size from one moment to another as the
birds in their flight closed into a dense body or opened out again
into sinuous lines. Their course took them inside the low sandy
spit jutting out towards the lighthouse of Trafalgar and, apparently
unwilling to trust themselves over the land, they altered their course
and in long undulating lines flew boldly seaward. It was indeed an
unusual spectacle seen from such a point of vantage so far above

them.

238 A Ride to Trafalgar

Now and again huge portions of the cliff had become detached

and had fallen in disordered masses below. On these were grassy

THE STRAND OF TRAFALGAR.

View from Vultures Cavern in Sterra above.

terraces, some of them densely overgrown with brambles and
lentiscus scrub, Whilst peering over the edge at such a spot, we
saw several rabbits scrambling about the face of the cliff, These

21 October 1805 239

little animals must surely spend their whole lives there, for with the
steep overhanging cliff above them and the sea washing below, there
would seem to be no means of escape. It was whilst watching them
that we suddenly spied a big Wild Cat (eds catus) sidling along
a narrow shelf of sandstone until it disappeared into the tangled
mass of scrub. It was quite unconscious of our presence and was
evidently intent on a rabbit for dinner.

The view from the summit of the cliffs of Trafalear is one
of vast extent and surpassing grandeur. We were fortunate in
having a very clear day. The whole of the African side of the
Straits from Apes’ Hill, opposite Gibraltar, past Tangier to the blue
headland of Cape Spartel far out in the Atlantic lay before us.
Beyond Spartel, the Atlantic coast down to Arzila, Larache and
southward stretched away into space. ‘Tarifa itself was hidden
by the spur of yellow sandhills which engulf the old Pheenician
city of Belon. Northward the whole strand past the white town
of Conil and onward to the Isla and Cadiz was visible, whilst
eastward, the rugged outlines of the Serrania of Ronda, over
70 miles distant, were clearly silhouetted, as were the nearer Hacho
of Gaucin, the Sierra Bermeja near Estepona and beyond these
the Sierra Blanca and far distant Malaga Mountains. Truly a
marvellous panorama. From the spot I occupied I could see
the ground beyond Conil where Graham, afterwards Lord Lyne-
doch, marched to fight and defeat the French at Barrosa in 1811.

But the chief historical interest naturally centred in the sheet
of glittering water immediately below us, for we were exactly
opposite the spot, ‘Cape Trafalgar bearing 10 miles east,” where
the greatest of naval battles was fought. What a view the inhabi-
tants of these wild hills must have had from the point we now
occupied, over 500 ft. above the sea, on that 21 October as
Nelson’s twenty-seven ships bore down on the straggling line of
French and Spaniards heading for Cadiz. With the wind W.N.W.,

240 A Ride to Trafalgar

as it was on that day, the smoke of over 4,000 guns must have
drifted right over the cliffs where I stood. 1 remember now many
years ago an old Spaniard describing to me how as a small lad
tending goats on the sierra he had heard the roar of the guns
and seen the great column of smoke rising above the contending
fleets, and as | surveyed the actual scene of that mighty conflict
stretched out below me, | saw it in my imagination crowded with
white-sailed line-of-battleships enveloped in drifting smoke and
locked together in that death struggle which for over a century
has secured for us the command of the sea.

Nor did I fail to conjure up to myself the scene all along
the coast below, strewn with wreckage and dead bodies, for many
a crippled ship was driven ashore and totally lost in the gale which
followed the battle. My companions, simple country folk, were
sorely puzzled at my remaining so long in meditation and gently
reminded me that they must leave me as they were bound to
re-cross the Barbate before the tide rose. So I bade them farewell
and, mounting my horse, rode homewards alone through the big
stone pines, many of which must surely have been silent witnesses
of the day of Trafalgar.

“(uuLy) “9.102 S240)

“Nad AVa

CHARGER. IT,
THE COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax).

Late nesters in Spain—Curious habit of congregating—The Tangier or Brown-
necked Raven—A nest in a pine tree—Raven trapping—Artful choice of
nesting quarters—A two-fronted residence—Nest in a deep fissure—A wkward
photography—Arrangement of eggs in nest.

AVENS are extremely abundant in
southern Spain and are even more
so in Morocco. Despite their well-
known appearance, flight and call,
which render them unmistakable at
almost any distance, few birds have
caused me greater perplexity in my
attempts to understand their ways or
the reasons which regulate their
movements. To begin with, in
southern Spain, where, according
to our British standard of climate,

an almost perpetual summer reigns,

the Ravens nest, not, as might
reasonably be assumed some weeks earlier than in our Islands, but
on the contrary, at least a month and frequently, more than two
months later. Curiously enough I found much the same condition of

242 The Common Raven

things in the Island of Crete, where, out of many nests visited, only
one contained eggs during the last week of March 1886, the rest
being still in course of construction. Why it is that in the exposed
and almost arctic climate of northern Scotland as well as in the wet
and storm-swept shores of Ireland and the west of England these
birds should eject to lay in February and why in sunny Andalucia
they should defer doing so till the middle of April is, to me, an
insoluble problem. Yet again, as to the number of eggs laid,
whereas in our Islands, three or four would seem to be the usual
complement, in Spain, six is the number commonly found and
next to that five.

Another puzzling habit of Ravens in Andalucia is the manner
in which they, from time to time, collect in considerable numbers
for a brief period and then as suddenly disperse. On such
occasions they are invariably in pairs and their movements are
obviously made in accordance with some well-defined ulterior
object. What this can be, I am unable to say, for in all my
wanderings in wild Spain I have never met with a large party
of Ravens collected around the carcass of an animal, nor have
I ever heard of such a gathering. I mention this, because, when
Vultures are seen to be moving towards any defined point, it 1s
invariably to foregather at one of their banquets.

To give an example of these assemblages of the Common
Raven. On 18 April, 1906, | was riding along an open river
valley and noticed a pair of Ravens, coming from the north, settle
on a pine tree to my front. Soon a second pair arrived from the
same direction followed by another and yet another. Meanwhile
the first arrivals had moved on and disappeared through a pine-
wood out of sight and were in turn followed by their friends.
Before I had passed this line of flight, no less than seventeen
pairs of Ravens had proceeded along it. Now what could these

birds have had in view? Although Ravens are numerous in these

The Tangier Raven 243

parts, they never nest in colonies as do the Choughs. Rather do
they keenly resent the intrusion of any of their species and each
pair of Ravens establishes itself on some cliff or tree at some distance
from others. From my own particular knowledge of the district
where I saw these birds, I can vouch that there are certainly
not more than six pairs nesting within a radius of five miles of the
spot where these birds congregated. In view of what | am about
to say about the Tangier Raven, I may add that I am positive
that all these birds I saw were Common Ravens and_ further
I draw a distinction between a processional movement of pairs
of Ravens of the type I describe and a general assemblage of
birds, such as one sees at times among the Ravens in Morocco,
or Rooks in our own Islands.

Over thirty-five years ago, the existence of a small species
of Raven in Morocco was noticed by Colonel Irby and was first
described by him in the /ézs of 1874 as Corvus tingitanus.

According to Irby, this species is decidedly smaller than the
Common Raven and its note is different, whilst so gregarious is
it in its habits that it is no uncommon sight to see flocks of these
birds feeding on the refuse along the sea-shore near Tangier.
During my travels in Morocco I have seen such assemblages of
Ravens myself but I have never shot any birds with a view to
establishing their identity. The Tangier Raven has also been
described as the Brown-necked Raven and Irby notes that many
specimens are marked, more or less, with rusty brown on their
wings and tail, although this colouring is of no importance in
determining the species. In the task of identifying birds on the
wing, especially when at a distance, size is one of the most
difficult factors. Everybody who has attempted to pick out any
particular species of Gull will know well what I mean. In
such a case the appearance of some well-known species, such as
an adult Lesser Black-backed Gull, at once gives a “scale”

244 The Common Raven

whereby to judge the size and species of others. Hence although
in the case of a Common Raven 24 in. in length seen in company
with a Tangier Raven only about 18} in. long, it is easy enough
to tell the larger from the smaller species, when severa! of the
same species only are seen together at a distance it requires more
skill than I can pretend to, to know which they are. It is owing
to this difficulty that I have to confess that I have failed to
establish the fact of the nesting of the Tangier Raven in Spain.
As regards the ordinary methods of identification, shooting. or
trapping, such is the perversity and cunning of all Ravens that
it is no easy matter to shoot them, even from the nest, and as far
as my experience goes they consistently decline to be trapped,
preferring even to abandon their eggs to walking into a trap
concealed in the nest. In the words of an old Spaniard who
witnessed my discomfiture by a Raven which obviously detected
my evil intentions: Sade ef cuervo mas que el hombre— The
Raven knows more than the man.” Hence such evidence as I
have to produce is of the negative type, or, in other words, where
I have clearly verified the species nesting, it has xo¢ been the
Tangier Raven. The one exception to this occurred in 1879,
when on 24 April, chancing to be riding past within view of the
pine tree where I had trapped a Red Kite three weeks previously
(as described in the chapter on Kites), I saw a Raven fly out
of it. On climbing up, I found the Kite’s nest had been completely
remodelled by the Ravens, the sides had been raised by a well-knit
parapet of sticks and enclosed a deep cup, thickly lined with goats’
hair, in which were five light green eggs, closely marked with
brown and to my eyes decidedly smaller than any Ravens’ I had
then seen. Whilst I was in the nest the old birds flew around
and seemed to be not nearly so big as the ordinary Raven. All
attempts to trap the old bird failed. Three days later I returned
to the nest and found a sixth egg had been laid. On this

Dates of Nesting 245

occasion the old bird slipped off the nest when I was far distant
from the tree and such is their usual way.

Since then, I have visited very many Ravens’ nests and have
seen eggs innumerable, but | have never come across any which
exactly resembled this set of six, which are much nearer in shape
and size to some of the eggs of the Carrion Crow I possess than
to any Common Raven's.

On various occasions I have seen considerable assemblages of
Ravens, which, so far as I could judge, seemed to be of the small
species. The curious part of it is that these gatherings were
generally at the height of the nesting season. Thus in April
1878 I saw over forty small Ravens in the plain north of Tarifa,
on 29 April, 1879, about fifty near the River Guaddarranque,
and again over forty near the Palmones River.

Irby expressed his belief that the Tangier Raven nested some-
what later than the Common Raven on the Spanish side, naming
20 April as their usual date. From the following data taken from
my notes, it would seem as if this was also the average date of
laying of the Common Raven. Of eight nests visited in recent
years, the earliest date for the laying of the first egg was 13 April
and the latest 26 April. Two of these nests contained four eggs,
one five, and five six. The average date of laying would appear to
be about 20 April.

As regards the date of hatching out I have found nestlings only
a day or so old on 21, 24 and 26 May and this would appear to be
the average date of their appearance in southern Spain.

I know of no large and conspicuous bird, such as the Raven,
which, when circumstances demand it, is more adroit at concealing its
nesting-place. Of course, when it nests in trees, this hardly applies.
All the same I know of several nests which have eluded detection
year after year owing to their similarity to one of the chance collec-
tions of fir spines which are so common in some of the pine trees in

246 The Common Raven

Spain Some nests rely solely on their inacessibility combined with
the remoteness of their situation, and are placed without the
slightest attempt at concealment.

The Raven excels most in the art of deception when it nests
in some of the smaller crags which it frequently resorts to because
they are inconspicuous and provide caverns or fissures in which
it can conceal its nest. As a rule nests built in such situations
are constructed so that no portion of them is visible from
below.

Quite the most artistically concealed and cunningly placed of
the many Ravens’ nests I have visited was one placed in a small
domed cavern near the summit of a crag not 50 ft. high, vertical
on one side but sloping so gently on the other that anybody can
scramble up to it. In this the Ravens nested for over thirty years.
In 1877 I shot one of the old birds within 20 yards of this spot,
thinking it was a Tangier Raven, but no nest did I see. Year
after year I passed close under this crag but there were no signs
of a nest, although the constant presence of the Ravens told
me they must be nesting hard by in one of the many rocky ravines.
At last in 1903 I chanced to be passing the crags with several
friends and sent two of them along the ravine below the cliff
whilst | proceeded along the shelving side. Presently I heard a
shout and was told that a Raven had just flown out of the cliff close
to me. Looking over the edge | could see nothing, but upon round-
ing an angle of rock hard by I spied a hole on my side of the crag
which led to a cavern in which was a Raven's nest with four eggs.
The secret was out. The wily bird had so arranged its establish-
ment that no matter which side the enemy, man, appeared, it
could always slip out on the other side unseen. Small wonder then
that upon the innumerable occasions when I had passed along the
goat-track below the nest since 1877, when I first saw a Raven
there, it had quietly departed by the back door as I approached

A Double-fronted Residence 247

the main entrance and wee versa. It was a pure chance that

upon this occasion, as Admiral Farquhar and I neared the back

A RAVEN’S NEST AT BOTTOM OF A DEEP FISSURE IN A CLIFF.

door, the rest of our party were in the ravine the other side com-

manding a view of the front door. But never again. She and her

248 The Common Raven

mate still nest in these rocky ravines but not in the old double
fronted situation, a sketch of which appears at the beginning of
this chapter.

It was not until I obtained conclusive proof on this cunning habit
of the Raven that I paid any attention to the matter. Since then [|
have revisited several nests known to me for many years past ; and
in two instances have I found a precisely similar arrangement
whereby the old bird can slip off her nest unobserved, by means of a
back-door. One of these is ina crag known as La Cueva del Cuervo,
which has been occupied recently by a pair of Egyptian Vultures.
A picture of this nesting-place will be found in the chapter on
Egyptian Vultures. I now know why it was that I never saw a
Raven leave this crag when they nested there.

Owing to this habit of resorting to recesses amid the rocks it
follows that most Ravens’ nests are somewhat awkward to photo-
graph. The picture given on the preceding page is of a nest most
artistically placed in the depths of a fissure on the face of a small
cliff about 100 ft. high and not 1o ft. from the summit. Entrance
to the nest is gained through a narrow fissure immediately in front
of it, through which the light is seen to be shining in this picture.
To get at this nest I had to descend from the top of the cliff through
a narrow chimney which widened out at the bottom and this
photograph was taken standing with my stockinged feet and knees
pressed, chimney-sweep fashion, on either side of the gully and
with the camera jammed against the rocks at a point 43 ft. above
the nest, where some slight protuberances made it possible to
hold it perfectly steady for thirty-five seconds. Having taken this
general view of the nest as seen from above, I went down lower
and holding the camera firmly against the rocky wall shown near
the left hand top corner of the first picture, only 18 in. above
the eggs, took the second one with an exposure of forty seconds,
I may mention that the first picture was taken with a Goerz lens

Photographing in a ‘Chimney ” 249

and the second with my ordinary Kodak with magnifier attachment.

It was a troublesome business and took over an hour to arrange

RAVEN’S EGGS. (Size 2’0 in. 1°3 in.)

and it was not accomplished without some failures. In one of

these I failed to hold the camera steady owing to my constrained

ro)

250 The Common Raven

position and in another my foot slipped and I narrowly avoided
tumbling down into the nest.

I would call particular attention to the arrangement of the eggs
in these pictures, which is characteristic of the Ravens’ method
when she has six eggs to incubate and is probably the only one
which enables her to cover them in a satisfactory way when sitting.
I have seen similar arrangements in other nests.

al
6

OSPREY.

Pandion haliaétus (Linn.).

is)
un

CHARTER III.
THE OSPREY (Pandion haliaétus).

Common about Straits of Gibraltar—Nests on the Rock—Mentioned by White
of Selborne in 1776—Same site occupied in 1876—And now—The
Osprey’s foot—Methods of fishing—Transparency of water seen from above
—An Osprey’s breeding-station—A flower-strewn islet—A difficult situa-
tion — Use of a fugleman —A difference of opinion — The “ Senior
Service ’’—A terraced cliff—Prickly pears—Repeated failures—And final
success—A big nest—Unpleasant results of climb.

HIS is yet another of the
larger birds which were at
one time fairly abundant
throughout =the — northern
portions of our Island.
Owing to their world-wide
geographical — distribution,
they are to be met with in
all suitable localities, and it

is very certain that if only

people could be induced to

refrain from shooting them
in the United Kingdom
they would soon re-establish
themselves in many of their old haunts. It is gratifying to know
that, thanks to the greater interest taken in wild birds of late years,
several large landowners in the north now jealously guard the

252 The Osprey

Ospreys which come to nest on the islands of the big fresh-water
lochs.

These beautiful birds are still fairly common in the Straits of
Gibraltar. A pair have nested at the back of the Rock from time
immemorial and were duly noted by the Rev. John White in a
letter to his famous brother of Selborne in 1776. I first saw their
nest there in 1874, and have since then watched the old birds on
innumerable occasions. In some years two pairs nest there and
in one year very recently I watched three pairs on the wing together,
but do not think more than two nested.

Of the three sites | know one is not 4o ft. above the sea,
on a ledge which is overhung by a big cliff some 3co ft. above
it, and may be reckoned as inaccessible. A second site is in
the same cliff and about 250 ft. above the sea. The third is in
the roof of and near the entrance of one of the huge sea-caverns
and is overhung.

An excellent standing Garrison Order of the old Rock forbids
the wild birds being molested, but the surest protection for the
Ospreys is the difficulty of getting at their nests.

I make no scruple about mentioning these nests since they are
known to many. From one of the now disused old batteries near
Europa Point the birds can be easily watched with a telescope on
the nest, as can the young when they are hatched out. | spent one
whole summer at ‘‘ The Cottage,” the summer residence of the
Governor of Gibraltar, Watching the Ospreys both at their nests
and when fishing in front of my windows formed not the least
interesting of my duties as A.D.C.

The sketch at the beginning of this chapter is a copy from one
made at this time and the positions of the upper and lower nests on
the overhanging cliff are indicated by the birds shown flying opposite
to them.

The persistency with which the Ospreys resort to these sites

A Long Lease of a Nesting Station 253

is the best proof of their general immunity from attack. On
the homeward voyage from Egypt in the summer of 1885 con-
sequent on our withdrawal from the Soudan, I chanced to mention
the Ospreys, and, as is so frequent when ordinary well-ascer-
tained facts of natural history are told to the uninitiated, was
chaffed a good deal when I asserted that without doubt we should
see the Ospreys on their nest when we passed the Rock. The
affair ended in the captain of our transport good-naturedly altering
his course and steaming in close under the point. Every glass was
directed on the nest and much was the jubilation at its being
apparently empty, until the old bird suddenly rose from off her
young and standing up showed her white breast to the Camel Corps
of unbelievers!

From time to time some thoughtless gunner has shot one of
these beautiful birds. I know of five instances in the last thirty-
three years, and of course there may be others, but the bereaved
bird soon finds another mate and all goes on as before. No doubt
there is an inexhaustible supply of eligible young Ospreys, male
and female, to be obtained from the opposite coast of Africa. On
that side there is usually an Osprey’s nest wherever there are any
bold headlands or sea-cliffs. I have seen three nests on one head-
land within a few hundred yards of one another. Here they are
reasonably safe, for, owing to the heavy swell which sets in, landing
is often impossible, and in addition Ospreys, unlike so many Eagles,
seem to appreciate the advantages of selecting awkward cliffs as
nesting stations. Also, entirely apart from the present disturbed
condition of Morocco, some of these nests are on parts of the coast
where Europeans have never been welcomed and in consequence
have very rarely been visited.

Many writers have described the structure of the Osprey’s foot ;
how the better to secure its fishy prey the outer toe is reversible
so that the foot can be either used, when perching, with three toes

254 The Osprey

in front and one behind (in the normal fashion), or, when a fish has
to be held, with two in front and two behind. Professor Newton
gave an excellent figure of the structure of the foot in his Dictionary.
Yarrell points out how the wide lateral movement of the outer toe
enables the foot to hold an object on all four sides, and describes
how an Osprey in confinement was seen to seize its food thus.
I confess I have never examined the marks made by the talons
of an Osprey on a captured fish, but after watching Ospreys seize
their prey it seems as if it was always carried ‘fore and aft,” or
parallel to the body of the bird and not ‘‘athwart.” In such a
position the claws would probably hold a slippery fish most securely
if they entered it from two points in its back and were “clamped ”
by the two other claws, one on either side of the body. No doubt
this matter has been observed by other field-naturalists, but I can
find no reference to it. With a fish thus held longitudinally,
the marks of the claws of each foot would indicate either the four
points of a St. George’s or of a St. Andrew’s Cross on the fish’s
back, according as whether they were distributed as I suggest, or
‘two in front and two behind.”

The cry of the Osprey is of the well-known falcon or hawk type,
such as Kestrels and Sparrowhawks use when scolding, only of
course a good deal more powerful. When one approaches a cliff
where they are nesting they will, from time to time, sail close past
crying out in this manner, and very fascinating it is to watch them.

I have also often heard the cry at night, but seemingly from
birds sitting in or near their nests. Ospreys habitually use the un-
occupied alternative nesting sites as places to perch and feed in, and
hence the cries may come from roosting birds. They remain out
fishing till long after sundown, and on one occasion, when rowing
homeward in the month of November from some sea-cliffs, a friend
with me shot at and killed an Osprey when it was too dark to see
what he was firing at. The unfortunate bird at the time was flying
into a cavern to roost.

Ospreys Fishing 255

When an Osprey leaves its nest or perch among the cliffs, it
usually flies seaward in a straight line for some distance, and then
commences a series of wide sweeps and curves until it is out of
sight. When fishing, it flies in circles with motionless wings about
200 ft. above the sea until it detects a fish below, when it moment-
arily checks its pace and flaps its wings and, if satisfied with what
it sees, drops like a stone into the waters, generally disappearing
altogether and throwing up a small column of foam. Next instant
it emerges, rarely without something in its talons, and wings its way
by a steady flapping flight to the rock or point of vantage where it
can make its meal in peace. Sometimes, just before it touches the
water, it suddenly checks its fall by a few vigorous flaps and then
soars upward to recommence the chase. In such cases, in all proba-
bility the fish the bird had selected when circling high above the
water had either dived away or was found to be at too great
a depth for a successful pounce.

Most people have heard of the remarkable transparency of
smooth water when seen from a height above, which at times
presents to the balloonist the optical illusion of there being no
water at all ina pond. I first saw this when crossing the Frensham
ponds in a War balloon. As is usual, the approach of the balloon
caused great alarm to the fowls and ducks in the immediate neigh-
bourhood, the hens clucking violently and running off to take
cover from view, whilst the ducks scattered about the surface of
the water and dived vigorously. From the height we were, the
diving ducks, when once they ceased to disturb the surface, had the
appearance of ducks flapping about on dry ground, for the weeds
at the bottom of the shallow pond seemed to our eyes to be exposed
to the air. No doubt the eye of the Osprey is trained to gauge
correctly the depth below the surface of the fish it contemplates
making a meal off, but it must be a very delicate adjustment that

permits of the necessary degree of accuracy.

256 The Osprey

Wherever Ospreys are to be found, there is no bird which lends
itself better to watching when engaged in search of its food, since
unlike other raptorial birds in pursuit of their quarry amid hills
and woodland, it ever hunts in the open where there is nothing
to obstruct a view of its actions.

I have met with it up tidal estuaries, where it pursues the
same tactics as when at sea, but with the difference that in place of
dropping like a stone on to its prey it sweeps down and, after the
manner of a Gull fishing, lightly dips into the water and as
quickly mounts again. Of course, in such places many of the small
fish are in extremely shallow waters over the mud-beds and sand-
banks, where a vigorous dive might mean annihilation,

The Osprey is usually credited with selecting as a nesting-place
some situation dangerous of access, and I must admit that the
statement, from my own experience, is correct, and that as a rule
where the nest is not in a dangerous position it is only accessible by
climbing, with or without the aid of ropes. Of course this does not
apply to some of the nests on ruined buildings in the Scottish lochs,
but to most of those one sees in sea-cliffs.

The simplest nest to reach I ever saw was one placed on a small
projecting rock only 12 ft. or 15 ft. below the crest of a limestone
cliff, The nest was visible from above, but below it the cliff
receded, with the result that there was a clear drop between it and
the sea some 230 ft. below. However unreasonable it may seem,
a nest in such a place as this is ever more alarming to look at than
is one placed in some really dangerous place, since nothing is here
required to reach it beyond good nerves and good ropes. This

g
nest contained three magnificently marked fresh eggs on 31 March,
which is about the normal time for Ospreys to lay.

This expedition was one of the many red-letter days of my
ornithological life. The Ospreys’ stronghold was on a big detached

rock some hundreds of yards from the mainland. All around it

An Osprey’s Stronghold 257

and between us and the shore the water was many fathoms deep
and of the most intense blue, with deep purple shadows below the

great cliffs opposite.

AN OSPREY’S STRONGHOLD.

To reach the summit we had to effect a landing from a dinghy
on some slippery rocks in a deep cavern into which the swell was
gently surging. This cavern was full of nests of the Green Cor
morant, mostly at the time of our visit containing hard-set eggs or
black sprawling naked chicks. It is needless to insist on the aroma
of the place. A scramble round some rocks and up a steep gully

Li]

258 The Osprey

brought us to the brilliant sunlight on the top of the crag. Although
the serrated ridges of limestone scarcely permitted of our seeing the
ground between them, through the interstices of the rock grew an
amazing wealth of flowers. Masses of wild parsley, red and white
fumitory, marigold, catchfly, squill and fennel were to be seen on
every side, whilst tall sprays of asphodel and big acanthus reared
their heads above all. It was difficult to keep one’s footing in
places owing to the densely growing lentiscus bushes, shorn by the
wind and fitting closely into the cavities of the rocks, concealing
deep gullies and fissures.

I will now describe a more difficult situation, that of a nest
placed on a projection about 100 ft. down a cliff 350 ft. high.
Here again from the nest to the sea below was a clear drop. But
the difficulty was that the cliff had no really defined edge, its top
being a steeply sloping terrace of loose stones amid which happily
there were a few palmetto bushes. These afforded secure foothold
to the lowering party (in this case three good men). Owing to the
rounding-off of the edge of the cliff some 30 ft. below the point
where the lowering party were ensconced, it was impossible to see
how to proceed until one was over the edge. In consequence, as
a reasonable measure of security | was let down in a bowline to the
very brink, whence I could act as fugleman and receive the
signals of my friend when he was lowered down the cliff and pass
my orders to the party above.

At the last moment one of those absurd incidents occurred which
impress themselves for ever on one’s memory. For many years
previously, although I had constantly obtained the assistance of
both naval and military officers, it had always and _ legitimately
fallen to me to make the actual descent. This time I was debarred
from descending myself, since, being the originator of the whole
conspiracy against the luckless Ospreys and many years older than
any of my party, I felt that the responsibility of the whole affair

The Duties of Fugleman 259

lay with me. Hence my assumption of the most unpleasant, and to
me painful, duties of fugleman, for in cliff-work it is always far

worse to watch another man climb than to do it oneself. On this

DESCENT TO AN OSPREY’S NEST.

occasion three of my party were naval men, two of them regular
athletes, absolutely callous to any sentimental notions about heights
and the so-called dangers of cliffs,

260 The Osprey

Having visited the same nest ten days earlier, when we found it
empty, I had reckoned upon the same man who then descended,
and who knew the difficulties of the job, repeating the operation.
But I was mistaken. Noticing that there was a hitch in the pro-
ceedings, I called out. The reply was that there was a difference
of opinion as to who should go over, each of my athletes insisting
on his right to do so, the one because he had been before, the
second because he had not been! It was no time to palter, and so,
with the decision begot of military training, I ordered the senior
officer to proceed, which he promptly did.

Those only who have been in really dangerous situations in big
cliffs can appreciate the difference between having men as assistants
who endeavour to dissuade one from an adventurous descent, as has
frequently been my experience, or, as in this case, having men who
actually quarrel as to which is to be the privileged individual to go
over! With such assistants as I had on this glorious day I would
long since have had no more worlds to conquer, in a birdsnesting
sense. This nest contained two fresh eggs on 10 May, and these
in my opinion were a second laying, due to the first having been
molested or destroyed in some way.

Another’s Osprey’s nest, of which I was fortunately able to get
some photographs, was also on a sea-cliff, but in an altogether
different position. In this case the Ospreys had as their defence
not only a formidable cliff consisting of several terraces (always the
most perplexing to tackle), but the summit of the cliff as well as the
terraces was densely overgrown with prickly pear, making access
most difficult. Added to this, below lay a steeply sloping talus of
fine débris, fallen from the cliff above, which it was necessary for
us to traverse from the point where we landed, before escalading
the cliff at a weak spot. How dangerous was this talus in places
was proved by Admiral Farquhar on another occasion; for one of
his party, attempting to cross it gun in hand, found it impossible

A well-defended Position 261

to proceed without the aid of both hands and after consultation with
the others had to abandon his gun, which was dashed to pieces on
the rocks far below. This talus in our instance proved too much

THE OSPREY’S CLIFF.

for some of my party and unluckily amongst them was the man whom
I had relied upon to signal to me the precise position of the nest
when we had gained the summit.

262 The Osprey

In this picture of the profile of the Osprey’s cliff, taken from
a point on the talus about 150 ft. above the sea, the Osprey Is
seen leaving her nest which is the dark mass on the summit of
the prickly pears on the same level as the bird.

A careful reconnaissance with a telescope from the deck of
our vessel had made it clear to me that my difficulties would
only begin with our arrival above the nest. Once clear of the
dangerous talus we got amongst dense lentiscus and brambles,
also prickly pear, aloes and all the usual obstacles presented
by a semi-tropical jungle. Finally we emerged, blown and
exhausted, on the grassy summit, and lay down to get our
wind. Next, we had to fight our way through the dense scrub
to the point which we imagined to be above the nest and then work
our way down the steeply sloping cliff until brought up short by a
sheer drop of some feet.

Now commenced my work and | descended on my rope to
terrace after terrace, forcing my way through thick rows of prickly

pear—a most painful operation. And now we found that there

was nobody below to signal to us where the nest lay. The
inevitable result was that after descending over 100 ft. I had
to signal to be hauled up again, always through the prickly pear.
Again did I descend and again did I fail to find the nest. On
the third occasion I reached a recess in the great cliff whence,
after unbending my rope (and securing it to a bush for obvious
reasons) I made a cast along a ledge to the south and reached
a point which I identified as being not far from the nest as seen
from below. So I retraced my steps, and regaining my rope was
hauled up for a third time. During this operation I passed a ledge
where a Peregrine Falcon was nesting. The old female swept
close around with shrill cries and eventually alighted on the sandy
shelf of rock within a few feet of me and with outspread wings
and every feather standing on end, lowered her head and screamed

Reach the Nest at Last 203

furiously. I have no doubt that I was close to her young, but
I had more serious work in hand and so [| left her alone.

I now made my fourth and last descent and found myself
immediately over the nest, but before I could go down to it the
party handling the rope had to work their way down towards

AN OSPREY’S NEST.

me since the rope was too short. Finally I reached the nest,
an enormous mass of big sticks measuring over 5 ft. across, and
doubtless the result of many years’ work. In it were two eggs
much incubated. By standing on a ledge close to the nest and

pressing the camera between my body and the face of the cliff |

264 The Osprey

was able to take some long time-exposures with fairly good results.
It was near sunset and the cliff was in deep shadow, which did
not facilitate my task. Between the shaly nature of the cliff, the
slippery terraces covered with loose soil and stones and_ the
detestable prickly pears, I never had a more unpleasant or arduous
task en a cliff before. But I have lived to endure worse experiences,
although not so painfully protracted as were these.

My very curt entry in my diary summarizes the whole job
thus: ‘Bad shale cliffs, vertical and dangerous, height of nest
above sea 160 ft. Top of cliff 310 ft., the worst managed bit of
rope-work I ever did.”

With regard to the prickly pears, it was many months before
the last of the poisonous spines I had collected in various parts of
my body consented to come out, and then only after first festering.

Such are my experiences of Osprey photography! Still I am
quite prepared to hear some brother worker assert that he usually
visits Osprey’s nests in places where one can trundle a wheel-

barrow !

V.-—AMID THE SIERRAS.

CHAPTER -L

A DAY IN THE LOWER SIERRA.

A distant view in 1884—A registered vow—Repeated attempts to carry it out
—A spring day’s ride—Grass lands and cultivation—A watercourse and
its occupants—An extensive view—The cistus scrub—Rock sepulchres—
Their unknown origin—Reach the cliff—A Vulture’s colony—A careful
reconnaissance—Formation of cliff—A practical lesson in geology—Explore
a cavern—A subterranean route—Among the Vultures’ nests— Photographing
young birds—Behaviour of their parents—Magnificent scenery—An_ ideal

residence.

hitherto been ignorant, amid

NE autumn day, so far back as the

year 1884, whilst crossing the Bay
of Trafalgar on my way to Egypt
and the Soudan, | was examining
the mountainous country north
of Tarifa with a telescope. I had
already a tolerably good acquaint-
ance with the topography of this
district having made various ex-
peditions into it, both for shooting
and in quest of birds’ nests during
the preceding ten years. On this
occasion however I detected a
cliff of whose existence I had

the broken and rocky slopes of

266 A Day in the Lower Sierra

one of the sierras which lie behind the sandy shores of Trafalgar
Bay.

Referring to my diary of 26 September, 1884 I find the follow-
ing entry anent this cliff. ‘This must be worked up some day,”
At the moment circumstances did not lend themselves to such a
scheme. [| was on board of a 10-knot ‘‘tramp” steamer chartered
to convey some forty of the famous Nile whalers to Alexandria, by
the aid of which sanguine spirits still believed it might be possible
to lend a helping hand to General Gordon, at the time so sorely
beset in Khartoum.

In 1884 the Soudan, with all its difficulties and perils was
practically ¢erva tncognita, not only to us soldiers who were about
to be launched into its wastes, but to the vast proportion of the
civilized world to whom it was indeed but little more than a name,
Nobody at that time had the slightest idea what lay before us,
and as usual the only fear on the part of the soldiers was that
there might be no fighting, a pious apprehension which subse-
quent events in the Bayuda Desert proved to have been entirely
groundless,

Nearly a year later, when on the homeward voyage after our
unsuccessful attempt to reach Khartoum, I once again saw the
same cliff shining in the afternoon sun, and once again registered
a vow to try to visit it some day, since my fancy peopled it with
Vultures, and possibly Eagles whose eggs might help to enrich
my collection.

But although frequently in Spain during the next twelve years,
fate seemed to be against my ever attaining my object. On several
occasions I made efforts to cross the sierra and reach the point,
but was from some cause or another as often baffled. At one
time, rains made both sierra and the miles of soft clayey foothills
below it practically impassable. At another, although successful
in reaching the neighbourhood, I found that the hours of daylight

Crossing the Foot-hills 207

remaining would not permit of my crossing several rugged spurs
and deep ravines which lay between me and the point where |
reckoned the cliff must be.

It was not until May tgo1 that I found myself once again
within a day’s ride of the part of the sierra wherein lay the cliff
I had seen in 1884. April had been a month of extraordinary
rains and floods but for the last two weeks we had enjoyed splendid
weather and the tracks and mountain passes were in excellent
travelling condition.

It was on one of those glorious spring days, which to my
prejudiced mind are nowhere so glorious as under an Andalucian
sky, that we rode forth on our expedition in quest of the cliff
accompanied by a couple of Spaniards, both old friends and
companions in many similar undertakings.

In the middle of May, the time of our visit, the whole country
was carpeted with flowers, pink mallow and brilliant blue con-
volvulus predominating. Birds of course abounded, the most
conspicuous being Calandra Larks, a fine species, almost double
the size of our own Skylark. Its song is more powerful in some
parts than that of our bird and it sings, like ours, when on the
wing, but not at such heights or with the same persistence. Corn
Buntings sat stupidly on thistles or sprays of defunct asphodel
giving vent to their tedious call with aggravating monotony and
allowing our horses to pass within a yard or two without showing
alarm or surprise.

Soon we reached the arable land abutting on the level plain
which at this season is covered with crops of barley and bearded
wheat now nearly full grown, although still green. Our route
usually ran along the edge of some tortuous watercourse, at times
striking across the undulating hills along a headland between the
crops until it once again joined a watercourse. The numerous
tracts of fallow land were covered with mustard, whose golden
flowers were in places more than 6 ft. above the ground.

268 A Day in the Lower Sierra

These watercourses in the month of May form a haven of
refuge toa multitude of living things. True it is that the streams
at their bottoms are usually trivial, but at frequent intervals the
winter floods have hollowed out deep pits with precipitous sides
which now form a succession of pools and afford an asylum for
much animal life. With abundant water below and the sun of
southern Spain above it may easily be imagined that along these
watercourses Nature simply runs riot. The banks are densely
overgrown with rank grasses and herbage rendered gorgeous by
the variety of tints of the crimson sanfoin and deep purple-blue
cerinthe. Frogs of all sizes both green and brown keep up a
noisy chorus which suddenly ceases as they detect the approach
of a traveller and successively take headers into the pool below.
Along the steep sunny side of the gully water-tortoises are to be
seen clustered on the hard baked mud from which they scuttle or
simply let go and fall into the water with a series of flops.
At places the path is almost blocked by huge umbelliferous plants
with white flowers over 9 in. across, and by a profusion of big
yellow and purple thistles.

Between the flowers, plants, reptile and last, but not least,
teeming insect life, a ride along one of these watercourses is to me
ever a source of interest and yet it is merely a passing phase of
similar, albeit differing experiences under the ever-varying con-
ditions of travel in Andalucia.

As we gradually left the low country and ascended the rolling
green hills which everywhere skirt the szon¢ée or scrub region, our
view of the surrounding country rapidly extended. Behind us, the
vast plain of the Laguna de la Janda stretched northward towards
the far distant purple hills, amid which the old Moorish towns of
Alcala de las Gazules and Medina Sidonia sparkled white in the
strong sunlight. Soon the Bay of Trafalgar with its fringe of
yellow sandhills and steep sandstone cliffs came in sight. Far away

Giant Cistus 269

to the north-west we could dimly see the white houses of the Isla
glittering through the haze.

Turning southward we commenced the ascent of the lower spurs
of the sierra proper, the track gradually grew more rocky and
difficult and eventually it became necessary to dismount and lead
our horses. The scrub grew denser and at places it was no easy
matter to force our way through it along the narrow track. We
were now in the region of the palmetto, lentiscus and cistus; and
what cistus! The slopes bordering on the sandhills near Trafalgar
Bay are covered with dense cistus scrub often 6 ft. high,
bearing magnificent white blossoms, some of which measure
fully 4 in. across. This was in full bloom at the time of our visit
and hundreds of acres of hillside were covered with its beautiful

dark green foliage, dotted everywhere with these glorious white
flowers. Higher up the mountains, a peculiarly beautiful dwarf

cistus with a rose madder ring encircling its centre was tolerably
abundant as also were others with white, yellow and crimson
blossoms.

Sixteen years is a considerable time to carry precise topo-
graphical details in one’s head, and it was therefore no very great
surprise to me upon our gaining the crest-line of the ridge we were
ascending to find that there was no cliff to be seen of the dimensions
I had noted in 1884. Sure enough there was a crag or rather a
series of crags to our front, but none of these was the one
we were in quest of. To these rocks we however proceeded as
it was probable that from thence a good view might be obtained.
Leaving our horses and men amid the cistus scrub below we
scrambled up the rocks and were rewarded by seeing on the sky
line to our left front and about a mile distant several serrated crags,
which might possibly belong to the cliff we were in search of ; but
I began to have uncomfortable doubts of its existence.

It was whilst climbling these rocks that we came across a series

270 A Day in the Lower Sierra

of those mysterious sepulchres which are so often met with in
similar situations in Andalucia. These are invariably hewn out of

ROCK SEPULCHRES AND CISTUS.

the flat surface of the rock and measure the traditional 6 ft. by 2 ft.
with a depth of about 18 in. These are the measurements of the
largest, but smaller graves are also constantly seen, of all sizes down

Rock Sepulchres 271

to that of a very small child showing that these tombs were used for
the interment of both sexes and at all ages. The Spaniards of course
attribute them to the Moors, a convenient form they invariably
apply to everything about which they know nothing. The tombs
face all directions and their localities appear to have been chosen
solely to obtain a good horizontal surface of rock, free from
joint or blemish to work upon. Possibly these rock sepulchres are
of Phoenician origin but this is a matter which requires further
research.

To revert to the search for our cliff, although less than a mile
from the serrated crags on the watershed beyond us, we were
separated from them by a deep rocky valley with steep sides over-
grown with impenetrable scrub. It became necessary therefore to
seek a vereda or track down towards the coast several hundred
feet below us, so as to cross the valley where it widened out and
became more practicable. This we effected and remounting our
horses commenced the toilsome ascent of the hill beyond; as we
gradually mounted the slope, the feeling grew in me that I had at
last found the way to the cliff I sought, nor was I disappointed,
for on reaching a plateau and rounding the extremity of a rocky
bluff we suddenly came in view of a fine cliff some 300 ft. in
height and fronting south-west.

Near its foot was a charming white cottage built on three sides
of a patio or courtyard which I instantly recognized as a land-
mark I had noted down in 1884 when on my way to Egypt.
The desolate nature of these rocky hills and their inaccessibility may
be gauged by the fact that it is easy for a considerable cliff, such
as is this, to be thus comfortably hidden away out of sight of most
of the surrounding country.

As may be imagined, the view of a cliff from the deck of a
steamer some seven miles or more out at sea, gives one but a small

conception of its size and more especially of its accessibility and |

272 A Day in the Lower Sierra

was gratified to note that the long-sought-for cliff was obviously
well suited as a nesting station for Vultures. and was further not of

[A VULTURE’S CLIFF.

so forbidding a nature as to render escalade or descent a matter of
impossibility for me, in my crippled condition of that time.

In cliff climbing, as in very many other occupations, nothing

8 y y) | g

A Study in Geology 273

is more hurtful to ultimate success than undue hurry. So we went
first to a crag some hundred yards or more from the face of the
cliff, whence with field-glasses and subsequently with a telescope,
we carefully examined the face of it, so as to grasp its salient
features as well as its weakest points.

It required but a very cursory glance to note that a considerable
colony of Griffon Vultures were in possession of the caverns and
fissures on the face of the cliff, several of the great birds were
soaring around in front of it as can be seen in the accompanying
picture. A pair of Egyptian Vultures, with snowy white plumage
and black-tipped wings, sailed round the lower crags where they
were nesting, whilst the warning croak of Ravens showed that
they also had an establishment somewhere in the neighbourhood.
No Eagles were however to be seen and at this I was not surprised,
as Eagles particularly dislike any cliff affected by their big relations,
the Griffon Vultures. Possibly they are not proud of the relation-
ship and so avoid them!

The cliff was of a formation very commonly seen in south-west
Andalucia and consisted of enormous slabs (originally beds) of
sandstone tilted up at a considerable angle, about seventy degrees
in this case. Ages of denudation had worn away the overlying soil
and loosened the strata from the front and these now formed a steep
slope or talus below, densely overgrown with scrub, amid which huge
rocks lay scattered. The back of the cliff was likewise denuded
for some 30 to 50 ft., the great slabs of solid rock slanting backwards
over it and forming in places a sort of pent-roof. The rocky ground
here was held up by the natural revetment formed by the mass of
the cliff in front of it and extended for some 20 yards or more to
the foot of a second cliff, parallel with and of like formation to the
first, only on a reduced scale. It is these series of parallel masses
of rock, upturned by some great earth movement that gives the

274 A Day in the Lower Sierra

Spanish name of szevva ‘‘a saw” to the rugged summits of the
mountains in Spain.

In my earlier days of cliff climbing I used generally to get to
work without delay, often by the admittedly risky and uncertain
process of a frontal attack. But wider experience has shown me
the wisdom of always seeking to find a way round. One lesson in
practical geology begot of repeated experience is that in the case of
any upturned strata, such as I have endeavoured to describe, there
are almost invariably places where, either owing to want of homo-
geneity in the rock or other causes, such as resistless pressure, a
general state of disruption has been brought about. In such
localities great joints and fissures are to be seen and also places
where the softer and less enduring portions of the rock have
weathered out, leaving deep chasms and caverns not infrequently
choked with masses of broken strata and fragments of rock from
above. After a rather severe struggle round one of the rocky
flanks of the main cliff where our course lay, now along a shelf of
some slippery crag and again through the scrub which grew in
such abundance upon the successive terraces, we at length reached
the rear face of the main summit. Here we were confronted by
huge masses of overhanging rock. By scrambling through a
narrow gully between two great crags we gained a sort of
natural look-out fashioned in the solid rock, probably the result
of a slip or slide, the shelf we were on being the top of the moved
bed. From this point a good view was obtainable both towards
the flanks and below, and we saw that some hundred feet from
the summit there was a series of broken ledges and semi-detached
crags parallel to the strata of the general face of the precipice and
forming the central portion of the Vultures’ stronghold. Any
further movement from this commanding point was however
impracticable, save with the aid of a rope, the cliff below being
sheer and unbroken, so we returned through the gulley to the rear

A Subterranean Passage

ho
NI
on

of the crags and renewed our search for some way round. Presently
amid the chaos of fallen rocks in the rear, | came on a small cavern
and at once proceeded to explore its depths.

Before going very far, it became evident that it was but a

portion of a great fissure or joint extending far down into the

THE REVERSE SLOPE OF THE SUMMIT OF THE CLIFF.

(Zhe entrance to the subterranean passage ts tmmediately above the man’s hat.)

heart of the cliff choked with huge fragments of rocks perched
one above another. After creeping and crawling under several
of these, now sidling past one or dropping down below another, we
reached a point whence, in the dim light of the cavern we could
see there was a fall of 15 ft. or so. Down this abyss, owing to
the inequalities of the surface of the rock and the narrowness of

276 A Day in the Lower Sierra

the passage, it was simple enough to descend chimney - sweep
fashion and as I neared the bottom, I became aware of a gleam
of light coming somewhere from the direction where I knew the
face of the cliff must be.

This was most reassuring and next moment I found myself at
the innermost end of a narrow but lofty cavern, the floor of which
sloped steeply away to my front. Proceeding cautiously along
this, on rounding a rock I saw in front of me the great untidy
nest of a Griffon Vulture literally lying on the sloping floor and
about a couple of feet from the mouth of the cavern, which opened *
out on the face of the main cliff. In it was a baby Vulture, about
the size of a duck and covered with white down. The moment it
caught sight of me, it, as usual, shammed death, laying its hideous
ungainly head sideways flat on the bottom of the nest and remain-
ing perfectly motionless in that uncomfortable attitude.

I was busy getting my camera into position when a great rush
of wings told me that one of the old birds was returning. Next
moment a Griffon with legs extended alighted with a mighty
commotion, on the shelving rock within a few feet of me and just
beside the nest. Hardly had it folded its great wings and
recovered its balance when it spied me and, turning, dashed off
with a great rustle and rush.

Having photographed the young bird, I moved up to the
nest and stood on the rock recently tenanted by the parent.
I found I had emerged on the face of the cliff, some 200 ft. from
its base and perhaps 100 ft. below the summit and was in the
midst of the colony of Vultures. On an open ledge across a chasm
and only some 15 ft. from me was another baby Vulture in its nest.
With a view to seeing what else was near me, I now gave a shout
and immediately some half-dozen of these great birds quitted
the caverns and fissures in the cliff adjacent to my position. Now
ensued a most interesting time for a lover of wild birds in their

A Vulture’s Colony 277

haunts. The surface of the rock, though at places nearly vertical,
was deeply weathered and afforded me admirable hand-hold as
well as good foot-hold for my rope-soled shoes and I was able to
traverse the face of the cliff in various directions and visit a
number of nesting-places. Being late in the season none of the
nests contained eggs, but I was able to get what I had come
for, namely, a capital series of photographs of young Griffons
in their nests in almost every stage, from the baby in white down,
no bigger than a newly hatched gosling, to the lumbering full-
grown young bird completely clothed with great brown feathers
waiting only the growth of its primaries to take wing and_ fly
away.

Whilst thus engaged with my camera, the old birds kept sailing
to and fro above the cliff, their immense wings spread out and
apparently motionless with the tips of the primary feathers widely
separated. Now and again some anxious mother would come past
a cavern I was in with a great swirl of wings and I was able to
get several snapshots at such, as they came towards me and before
they detected my presence and swung off with heavy flapping wings.
Vultures like other large raptores do not realize their power as
compared with that of a human being engaged in making his way
along some narrow ledge or across the face of a rough crag where

a very slight touch would infallibly cause him to lose his balance.
That they could easily effect this is certain, but it is equally certain
that their inherent dread of man effectually deters them from resort-
ing to tactics so disturbing to the egg-hunter or photographer.
Leaving the cliff after a rough descent of the hillside even more
unpleasant than the ascent, we at length reached the small white
house below.

The view from the vine-covered fatzo was simply magnificent.
Far below us the yellow sand of the coastline stretched away for
20 miles to the old fortress and lighthouse of Tarifa, whose white

278 A Day in the Lower Sierra

buildings formed a beautiful contrast to the deep blue of the
Straits beyond. Across the water we could discern every feature
of the wild rocky mountains of the Barbary coast from Ceuta to
Tangier drawn in sharp purple masses of light and shade, whilst
the bold headland of Cape Spartel stood up in strong relief against
the shining waters of the Atlantic, which seemed from our elevated
position to stretch westward until sea and sky merged.

The owner of the ideally placed house I mentioned was a goat-
herd of some importance, possessed of considerable flocks which
found subsistence in the rocky hills of the sierra above. It would be
difficult to imagine an instance of any man being in theory so near
and yet practically so far removed from the influences of modern
civilization. His only idea of civilization was the sleepy and decay-
ing old town of Tarifa and to gain the only road leading thither
he had to traverse some seven miles of a stony track, only passable
in fine weather. And yet daily, and indeed almost hourly, at his
very feet there passed huge vessels both of war and commerce
representing the power and wealth of most civilized States—on
their way through the Straits of Gibraltar.

Postal service, telegraphs, newspapers and the like were all
things for which he had no use; he was content to live thus isolated
in the glorious climate and to advert with justifiable pride to the
bella vista from his patzo, his one and only asset amid the supposed
desiderata of modern houses.

Had he ever had a visit from an Englishman before? Yes,
once, one had come to look for silver in the sierra where I had
been after the Vultures, altho’ God knows why silver should grow
among rocks. However seeking silver was a thing a man could
understand, but Vultures? and pictures of Vultures? what was
the use of them?

The Englishman had told him he possessed a hidden treasure
or gold mine in his garden. But he had never returned. We bad

Cape Spartel and the Atlantic 279

farewell to our host, not omitting the remarkably pretty daughters
of the house which the prospecting Englishman may possibly
have had in his eye when he spoke of the treasures in the

garden.

Ui
|

a0,
=>)

CEA ANE Raat:
THE LESSER BIRDS OF THE SIERRA.

The varied attractions of the Sierras—Moorish and Roman remains—A race of
rock dwellers, a subject for antiquarian research—The Common Wren—
The Crag Martin—A swim for a nest—An unlucky “identification ’—The
Blue Rock Thrush—The ‘‘ Sparrow alone upon the housetop ’’—Excep-
tional powers of dissimulation—An awkwardly-placed nest—Vain regrets—
Young Blue Rock Thrushes—A sweet songster—Search in sea-clifls—
Nest in Charles V.’s Wall—Riflemen on guard—A long-deferred victory—
The Black Wheatear—A most retiring species—Repeated failures to find
nest—The sentry-box and the Black Wheatear—The Pedvevo—Curious habit
of building nest with stones—A remarkable nest.

—_—

Y original object in penetrating into

the more remote parts of the country
was to see certain species of birds
in their haunts; but from the very
first I realized what exceptional oppor-
tunities were thus placed within my
reach, not only as regards the
birds and their nests but almost
every other branch of natural his-
tory. In a wild country such as |
have endeavoured to describe hardly
a day passes without one seeing some
animal, reptile or insect which cannot

fail to arouse the interest of the most

unimaginative. The extraordinary
wealth of flowers and flowering shrubs, the diversity of those

A Subject for Antiquaries 281

composing the so-called scrub as one penetrates from the low-lying
country into the valleys of the sierras, alone makes a most fascin-
ating subject for observation.

And in addition to the Zoology and Botany, what marvellous
geological formations present themselves to the traveller amid the
great tangled masses of the sierras and their surrounding foot-
hills. And again who could fail to draw inspiration from the
mysterious remains of bygone ages which are to be found in the
least frequented and apparently utterly uninhabitable parts of this
country? Naturally enough Andalucia abounds with wonderful relics
of the Moorish dynasties which endured for over 700 years and of
which the most modern must date at least from some time in the
fifteenth century. During some of my climbs to the summits of
remote and unsignified cliffs I have come across the remains of
well-designed and strongly built forts, clearly the work of the Arab
invaders. Again I have met with elaborate Roman ruins dating
possibly from 2,000 years back. But beyond and in addition to
these are the various rock fortresses, dwellings, sepulchres, cisterns
with steps and fortified approaches, all cut out of the solid rock, of
the creators of which I have been unable to obtain any information
at all, although I have spared no trouble in the matter. Who the
races were who thus dwelt in these desolate spots in the sierras,
accessible only by tortuous goat-tracks and often involving some
stiff climbing, is to me at present an insoluble mystery. I venture
to mention the subject here in the hope that some readers of this
book may be antiquaries who will follow up the matter.

But I must go back to my birds. Amid the caverns and
crannies of the mountains, both limestone and sandstone, there is
a bird-life all of its own. True is it that some of the species, as
will be seen, are found in other situations, but those which |
describe form part and parcel of the life in the more remote places,
where Vultures and Eagles seek for peace and security. First and

282 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

foremost comes one of the smallest of European birds, the Common
Wren, which inhabits the wildest and most desolate hills and
shares with the big Vultures the deep caverns hundreds of feet
above the sea level. Wherever suitable sites are to be found, for
example among the innumerable ‘ pockets” with which the roofs
of the sandstone caverns are pitted, there may the Wren be
reckoned to breed, making its snug nest of the materials nearest
at hand.

One of the things that most deeply impress my mind when,
after a hard struggle, I have gained the summit of some great
lide
overhead or sweep past hundreds of feet below, but never a sound
do they utter. The same with Eagles or with the startled Rock
Doves which dash out of the caverns hard by. Suddenly close
alongside, the silence is broken by the shrill cheery song of the

cliff, is the absolute silence around. The Vultures may

oO
cos)

Wren! No height seems to be too great for this undefeated little
bird. At the very summit of a great cliff, whose base lay in the
cork woods over 500 ft. below, | have found a Wren’s nest built
ina hole in the same cavern and in close proximity to that of the
huge Griffon Vulture. In this instance the Wren had constructed
the external part of the nest almost entirely from the Vultures’
feathers, the lanceolate ones from the ruff forming a feature in the
architecture, whilst the lining was composed of the snowy white
fleecy down which forms the underclothing of the Griffon.

One of the most widely distributed among the smaller birds of
the sierra is the beautiful little Crag Martin (Cotyle rupestris), which
to the uninitiated bears a likeness to our own Sand Martin (Cotyde
riparia). Some of these birds winter in southern Spain sheltering
among the deep ravines low down in the sierras where they are
protected from wind and weather. Their numbers are largely
increased during February. They build a nest of cemented mud,
cup-shaped similar to that of our Common Swallow (/Zzvezdo rustica)

A Crag Martin’s Cavern 283

and, zof like the House Martin, usually in the roof or on some inacces-

sible ledge of a cavern. Several pairs often nest together. The nest

SANDSTONE CAVERN ABOVE POOL IN BED OF TORRENT. NESTING-PLACE OF THE
CRAG MARTIN.

is warmly lined with feathers and the eggs, four to five in number,

are white, spotted with grey and rusty-brown and closely resemble

284 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

lighter coloured varieties of the Swallow's. Considering the
abundance of this species it is curious how rarely its nest is
found in accessible spots. After four years of disappointments, |
watched a pair enter a rocky cavern below a waterfall in a deep
water-worn ravine. To get at this nest I had to be lowered some
15 ft. to the pool below the fall and since we had no ropes, this had
to be done with the aid of our fazas (known to Anglo-Indians as
cummerbunds) knotted together. | then swam across the pool and
entered the cavern, in the roof of which was a nest with four eggs.
Sad to relate, so obsessed was I with the idea that this Crag Martin
built a nest similar to our House Martin and laid white eggs like
it and the Sand Martin that I imagined the nest and eggs I had
found belonged to the Common Swallow, of which there were some
also about, and so abandoned my prize! My disgust upon learning,
some months later, that I had actually had the eggs I longed for in
my grasp may be best imagined. Owing to the fact that I am
rarely in the sierras at the season when the Crag Martins lay,
many years passed before | had another opportunity of getting
this nest and it was not until rgo01 that I at last succeeded!
Truly a little knowledge is a very dangerous thing, at any rate
as regards the identification of eggs!

Besides the Crag Martin, the House Martin (Chelzdon urbica)
nests in abundance in certain parts of the sierra.

Without doubt the most conspicuous and best known of all the
cliff-haunting birds is the Blue Rock Thrush (Petrocossyphus cyanus),
known to the Spaniards as So/ztavzo from its habit of sitting alone,
perched on the summit of some crag or, if near inhabited places, on
the top of some commanding building. 1 believe I am correct in
saying that it was this bird that David had in his mind when he
described himself as watching, ‘“‘as a sparrow alone upon the house-
top,” and further that some learned ornithologists attempted, but
without success, to have this apparent error amended in the Revised
Version.

A Single-handed Lower 285

The Blue Rock Thrush is a delightful bird to watch, alike in
its wild state and when in an aviary. I have reared several from
the nest and so can testify to their engaging habits. They are
extremely wary, as all who have ever striven to find their nests
will testify, and I verily believe that when they have reason to
suspect that they are being watched, they will go to great pains to
mislead the enemy by simulating an immense interest in some crag
where they are zof nesting. Anyway such has been my experience,
year after year, and I have repeatedly witnessed and suffered from
such tactics. Naturally enough, as soon as I made the acquaint-
ance of these birds I set myself to discover their nests. Here for
a time at any rate, I met with more than my match, and for three
years in succession I was fairly beaten. Thus in 1875 I was
ignorant of their time of nesting and only found a nest on
22 May, when the young were fully grown and on the wing.
In 1876 I was equally unsuccessful. In 1877, when engaged in
watching an Eagle’s nest with Major Robert Napier (now Lord
Napier of Magdala), we noticed a pair of Thrushes which were
evidently nesting not far off. Eventually, the hen carrying a centi-
pede in its beak, flew up to and entered a deep vertical cranny
in the cliff close to the Eagle’s nest. The crag was not qo ft.
high and the cranny only a few feet below the edge and just
below an overhanging piece of rock. | Napier lowered me down and
after some trouble I got my toes well jambed into the crevice and
somehow managed to haul myself in under the rock and reach
the nest which contained five young birds fully fledged: these |
transferred to the bosom of my shirt. The return journey up—
there was not enough rope to lower me down—involved an
awkward struggle both for myself and my companion, for of course
as soon as I let go of the rock I swung outwards and demonstrated
the mistake of one man lowering another single-handed at a point
where there is no handhold for the climber. I made a sketch of

286 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

this crag from which the head-piece to this chapter is taken, on
the spot. I ever retain a lively recollection of the incident owing
to my comrade upon some subsequent occasion when I annoyed
him more than usual, having expressed his fervent regret at having
‘ever pulled me back up that cliff” !

The young Thrushes obtained on this day proved to be most
amusing pets, eventually finding their way, some to the aviaries at
Lilford and some to the Zoological Gardens, where they had more
scope for their antics than when caged.

In 1878 my attempts to get the eggs of this bird were unceas-
ing. On 23 March | found a nest ready for eggs in a low cliff, but
the old birds, which watched me closely when I climbed to it, for-
sook it and moved elsewhere. On 10 May I recovered the lost
clue and found a nest with five young just fledged within 20 yards
of the nest of 1877, and on 18 May yet another nest with four
young in a hole in the roof of a big cavern but still no eggs.

I reached this nest by the old birdsnesting expedient of building
up a human pyramid of my brother subalterns, the base being
formed by Henry Prittie (now Lord Dunalley), the middle portion
by Fergusson, and the apex by me. Having erected the structure
against the wall of the cavern, Prittie cautiously stepped backwards
until I was exactly under the nest.

In 1879, warned by previous failures, | commenced operations
earlier, and even on the days when I was prevented by my military
duties from leaving the Rock I devoted all my available time, on
guard or off guard, to watching suitable cliffs. At this time an old
cock Blue Thrush in his beautiful plumage used to come daily to
the cross on the top of the South Chapel and sit there for hours, from
time to time uttering the short sweet song so often heard in the
remote sierras. I watched him fly to Rosia Bay where I spent no
less than six days in March watching the movements of a pair in

the sea-cliffs.

The Blue Rock Thrush 287

At this time Lord Lilford was at Gibraltar in his yacht the
Glow-worm, and with the assistance of his son, Thomas Powys,
and some of the crew I was lowered over the cliffs between the
New Mole and Camp Bay in all directions. It was now that
I learnt by painful experience the deceptive ways of the Blue
Rock Thrush. One of their practical jokes was to simulate great
interest in some cavern or fissure in a cliff and to disappear into it
for a considerable time with the result that I was committed to a
perilous descent only to find that I had been grossly imposed upon.
At last on 5 April we decided that there must be a nest in a cave
below Parson's Lodge Battery. This happened to be quite inacces-
sible from above so I swam out from Camp Bay and scaled the
cliff but found nothing. I realized however that between sharp
rocks, barnacles and thorny scrub it was an overrated amusement
to go birdsnesting unclothed.

One day in April when subaltern of the Ragged Staff Guard
I noticed a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes playing about Charles V.’s
Wall high above the town. The next day as soon as I was relieved
from off guard I went to Gardiner’s Battery whence I could com-
mand a view of the suspected area and lay up. From what I there
saw I moved on to the foot of the North Flat Bastion and concealed
myself in the scrub about 30 yards from the escarp. After an
hour's waiting I noticed the old cock bird, which had been
endeavouring to attract my attention by various weird antics on
the top of the wall, become somewhat solicitous in his demeanour.
Remaining motionless | had the good luck to detect, out of the
corner of my eye, the hen as she slipped out of a weep-hole in
the bastion about 30 ft. above me. I kept quiet and soon she
re-entered the hole! I now made my way to the top of the bastion
and, leaning over the wall, touched the weep-hole with a stick—it
was only a few feet from the top—when out flew the bird! I now
felt certain of my prey.

288 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

But even now I had to exercise patience, for the Duke of
Connaught who was then serving in the Rifle Brigade was on a
visit to Gibraltar on the occasion of his honeymoon and this sadly
complicated my arrangements for we had to parade on the Alameda

A SANDSTONE CAVERN NEAR A SUMMIT OF THE LOWER SIERRA.
NESTING-PLACE OF THE BLUE ROCK THRUSH.

for his inspection. I recall now how whenever I was not ‘‘standing
to my front” I had an eye trained on that weep-hole in the
old bastion! Immediately after our return to barracks I got
into plain clothes and, seizing my coil of rope, started off for the
bastion. Here there was a Corporal and three Riflemen on guard.

The Black Wheatear 289

The sentry and inevitable cook deducted, this gave me two men

_
g
to lower me over the edge. As I came opposite the weep-hole
I saw to my intense joy a nest of fibrous roots containing five
beautiful pale blue eggs! These were, as is their characteristic,
most delicately transparent, thus differing from the eggs of our
Starling which are more opaque. Thus in the fifth year of my
labours did I at last attain success. Since then I have, from time
to time, when exploring caverns or working my way amid crags or
across the face of some big cliff, come upon many nests of this bird.
Owing to the peculiarly sheltered situations in which they build,
their nests remain for years in very fair preservation; hence the
climber sees many more nests than there are pairs of birds in the
locality. On three occasions I have thus chanced upon nests with
five eggs and on others some containing less, but none of these
has given me the same sensations of victory achieved that |
experienced on that day in April 1879, when hanging on my rope
adown the face of the old bastion at Gibraltar I first set eyes
on those blue eggs.

The Black Wheatear (Saxzcola leucura), although at times very
much in evidence, is like all the Wheatears a master at the art of
skulking and keeping out of sight. The male is a handsome fellow,
jetty black with a very conspicuous white patch above the tail
whence his popular name of £/¢ Sacristan,; in the female the
black plumage is replaced by a more sober brown. In many
of their habits they resemble the Blue Rock Thrush, and they
occupy identically the same terrain, nesting in caverns often at
the very summit of the lower sierras.

My quest of this bird’s nest was even more prolonged and
difficult than the quest of the Blue Rock Thrush’s, nor was it
marked with the same success, for to this day I have never yet
found a nest with the full complement of fresh eggs.

In March 1875 I watched a pair in the Europa ravines and at

4S)

290 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

length discovered the nest placed in a small hole in the face of a
cliff. Most unluckily the female was shot before she laid and thus
I lost the one good chance of my lifetime. The following year
I was entirely unsuccessful in finding these birds in situations
where I could watch their movements. In 1877 I noticed a pair
frequenting the same ravine where I had found the nest in 1875.
In the interval a big powder-magazine had been built close to the
cliff where the old nest was and the inevitable sentry had of course
been posted on the magazine, which, by the way, I rather think
was empty at this time. For several days I watched these wily
birds without any result but I learnt from a Rifleman on sentry
that, when I had gone away, the birds came down and played
about the magazine and cliffs adjacent to it, taking small notice of
him. The solution was obvious. I would take the sentry’s place.
So inducing him to extend his beat to the furthest legal limit I
slipped into his sentry box and with my eye at the peep-hole in
the side waited and watched. In a very few minutes a Black
Wheatear appeared on the cliff not 50 yards off and, after watching
the sentry turn his back, flew straight towards me and entered
one of the red-tiled ventilators of the magazine! Procuring a
ladder I went up it and found the nest placed a couple of feet
inside the shaft. Alas! it contained four young birds just
hatched out !

On 1 May of the same year, as I entered a cavern near the
summit of a small cliff I was climbing, a Black Wheatear flew off
its nest which was placed in one of the sandstone “pockets” in
the roof. This was the first nest I was able to examine properly
and was naturally immensely struck at seeing that the lower portion
of the nest was composed of stones of various sizes, some as large
as walnuts. At the time I had never heard of this singular custom
of the Black Wheatear which has earned for it the title of Pedvero
2.e., the stone-quarrier, among the folk of the sierra. The nest

The Pedrero or Stone-Quarrier 291

proper was built of bents and fibres and lined with wool and a few
feathers. [It contained four pale blue eggs marked with a rufous
ring at the larger end, in size they were between those of our
Wheatear and the Blue Rock Thrush. They were alas! on the

CAVERN NEAR A SUMMIT OF THE LOWER SIERRA SHOWING CAVITIES FORMED BY
SAND-BLAST IN ROCK. NESTING-PLACE OF THE BLACK WHEATEAR.

(Zhe nest is tn a cavity tmmediately above the field-glasses.)

point of hatching; so I lost the only chance I have ever had of
getting a perfect set of eggs of this curious bird.
Although I have found many nests since, the majority have been

empty and a few contained young birds; such are the ups and

292 The Lesser Birds of the Sierra

downs of birdsnesting. As a rule, it has been quite impossible to
revisit those nests (which no doubt would shortly have contained
eggs) owing to the remote situations in which they were placed
and my being at the time on the line of march.

Some nests have merely a few stones below them, whilst others
have a considerable number and others, again, a regular rough
rubble wall built up in front of the nest.

One of the most elaborately constructed nests I ever saw was
built in a cavern in a big sandstone cliff. 1 was exploring some
crags at the time and had left Colonel Irby some distance down
below. The cavern was almost circular and about 12 ft. in diameter
and 6 ft. in height and the walls and roof were, as is so frequently
the case, honeycombed with small cavities, similar to those shown
in the preceding pictures. In one of these, measuring 9 in.
across, was this most interesting nest. Seeing what a remarkable
one it was, I descended and induced Irby to come up and see
it and with his aid made a careful examination of its materials.
In front of the nest was a rough wall 9 in. long and 2} in. in
height and of some thickness. I removed the stones composing
it and we found they numbered 282, of all sizes from a walnut
toa pea. We then lifted the nest out; it was built of grass and
fibrous roots lined with the fine fibres of the palmetto. Below
the nest was a foundation of seventy-six large stones making 358
in all. The largest stone was 2 in. long by ? in. wide and 3 in.
thick and weighed 2 oz. and there were many others weighing
between 1 oz. and 2 oz. The total weight was over 4 lb. 8 oz.
The most noticeable point was that, with the possible exception
of a few small flakes of sandstone, all these stones had been
carried by the bird for some distance. How such a small bird
conveys the larger stones found in these nests is ever a puzzle to
me. That they do carry them and bring them from a consider-
able distance is capable of proof. Thus of late years, several

A Stone-built Nest 293

pairs have taken to nesting in the weep-holes of the tunnels of the
railway in the Ronda Mountains. From one of these weep-holes
over 8 ft. from the ground I took a collection of stones, some
being water-worn pebbles obviously brought from the bed of the
gorge some 30 ft. below the railway line. The largest of these
weighed 23 oz.

CLiArayE Rai:
IN THE UPPER SIERRA.

Extreme wildness—Changes in vegetation—Little-known tracks—Smugglers and
their foes, the Carabinevos—Cheery companions—The limestone mountains
—Cultivation under difficulties—Tobacco growing—A fight for a crop—
Natural fortresses—The hidden Moorish villages—Mountain gorges—A
deep ravine—Subterranean streams—Old limestone formations—Dangerous
climbing—An unpleasant experience—Denuded crags—El/ Cuchillo—Ibex—
A lost opportunity—Wolves—A desert of rocks — Absolute solitude—Choughs,
Alpine Accentors, Rock Buntings and Peregrine Falcons—Sierra de Libar—
Brigands—Secuestvadoves—The brothers Bonel—The Guardia Civil—A for-
bidden district—The fate of ‘‘ Monte Cristo ’’—The fascination of the Sierra
—Marvellous panoramic views.

LTHOUGH! the «height: “of the
lower sierra in south-west Anda-
lucia only averages between 1,500
and 2,500 ft. above the sea, the
greater part of the country it in-
cludes is of extraordinary wild-
ness. Less than 1,000 ft. up the
whole of the flora and vegetation
undergoes a marked change and as
one ascends higher, the oleander,
which fringes every stream in the
lower-lying districts, is replaced by
rhododendron, arbutus, laurestinus

and other ever-green shrubs, giant
white heath, often 10 to 15 ft. high
taking the place of the red heather of the lowlands. Roads, in

Smugglers and their Foes 295

the ordinary sense of the word, there are none and the tracks
available for pack-animals are few and far between; but there is
a perfect network of veredas or foot-paths, many of which are
unknown to any, save those who live in their immediate vicinity,
or to the gangs of smugglers who habitually use them in their
nocturnal marches. These daring fellows carry immense packs
of tobacco, often weighing over 100 |b., and in defiance of the
legions of Caradbineros or “ preventive men” who picket the whole
country with horse and foot in the most elaborate manner, contrive
by means of forced marches by night and hiding amid the rocks
and high heather by day to run their cargoes.

Sometimes when climbing about near the summit of some
lonely sierra, | have come across a gang of these wild folk, lying
concealed in some rocky ravine. Although it is at times a matter
of life and death to them should their hiding-place be discovered
by their natural enemies, the Cavadzneros, when I have suddenly
come upon such a party, they have shown absolute confidence in
me and have been most courteous and cheery. They are reckless
light-hearted folk and usually make jokes as to my evidently having
been a contrabandista myself in my young days, for how else
could I know their favourite veredas as | do? “No other English-
man comes to such places.”

As the traveller works northward and eastward from this region
the sierra gets higher and higher, the Serrania of Ronda being from
4,000 to 6,000 ft. above the sea. Eastward again it rises until the
Sierra Nevada is reached of which the altitude in places is over
11,000 feet. The lower sierra has been already described. In the
higher parts, towards Ronda, the physical conditions are widely
different from those in the lower sierra. To begin with, all this
part of the country is of limestone formation and the slopes are far
steeper and the cliffs more frequent than in the sandstone region.

Despite the enormous amount of rock there is a good deal of

296 In the Upper Sierra

cultivation in places. Every available piece of ground is cleared
of loose rock and boulders, which are heaped up in cairns at intervals
or built into massive revetments to hold up the soil in terrace above
terrace. In the small patches thus cleared many vines are planted,
also olives and almonds, whilst higher up wheat is everywhere
grown.

Amid this extraordinary desolation of rocks now and again when
traversing the upper sierra you come upon a natural basin of rich
soil, surrounded on all sides by big rocky hills and cliffs. These
spots vary from only a few rods of level ground to twenty acres or
more. Owing to the soakage of the rainfall from the surrounding
cliffs these are often well watered and bear excellent crops. I know
of more than one such place where I have found tobacco being
grown in defiance of the Caradzneros and all the myrmidons of the
law. Indeed at one spot, not many years since, the wild folk of
the sierra absolutely refused to discontinue their illicit cultivation
and reinforced by various parties of smugglers resisted by armed
force the detachment sent to overawe them. The scene of this
affray was a remote mountain village perched amid the hills, access
to which is along a steep mountain path, so steep as to necessitate
stone steps at places. This track leads through a narrow rocky
gorge, only a few yards wide, easily defensible in the olden days
by determined men armed with sword, spear and arrows. Modern
weapons have however rendered this and many another similar
mountain-fastness difficult to hold, since in such rugged country
there are ever points within rifle range which command them.
Hence they have lost their traditional security from attack.

One of the many interesting things in this interesting region is
the numerous old villages of Moorish origin hidden away in
secluded valleys in the higher part of the sierra; the names of many
of them are reminiscent of the centuries of Moorish occupation, each
one owing its situation to some good natural supply of water such

Old Moorish Villages 207

as is found at intervals in this marvellous limestone country.

Where such an advantage could be combined with a good defensible

ONE OF THE OLD MOORISH VILLAGES IN THE UPPER SIERRA.

post, large villages sprang up. Each one of them was in com-
munication with at least one other, either by direct view from some

building or by the construction of some watch tower on a com-

298 In the Upper Sierra

manding point to link up the two places. Sometimes, on reaching
a high point on some big cliffs, a compact little town with white-
washed buildings surrounded by ruined walls has suddenly burst
upon my view, nestled away in a secluded valley many hundreds
of feet below, of whose existence I had hitherto only known by
report.

Judging from the number of these villages—in one district there
are no fewer than sixteen within a seven-mile radius—there must
have been a very large population here in the days of the Moors.
Now, many of the villages are more than half in ruins and I know
of at least one extensive village which is almost deserted, the chief
inhabitants being a small detachment of Guardia Czvil and those
few engaged in the cultivation immediately around.

The rivers and streams of this region are most interesting to the
geologist. The Guadiaro River which divides the famous Zao
or cliff at Ronda has lower down in its course eaten its way
through the limestone mountains in a marvellous manner. The
most remarkable point is near Gaucin where it passes between two
vertical cliffs only a few yards apart and 4oo ft. in height. So close
do these great cliffs approach one another that here and there
a big crag fallen from above is wedged in and forms a natural
bridge. Here, the Guadiaro, after passing over a series of cataracts
takes a final plunge into a dark abyss and emerges about a quarter
of a mile lower down too ft. below the level of the entrance.
Several friends of mine, during dry seasons when there is little
water in the gorge, have endeavoured by swimming and wading
to pass upwards through this mysterious natural tunnel but have
been invariably baffled by a series of slippery water-worn weirs of
natural rock in the gloomy caverns into which they have penetrated.
Were I sound in wind and limb I should certainly try to pass
through from above with plenty of rope to secure my retreat.

The view of this gorge from the lower side is most magnificent.

A Deep Gorge 299

A small colony of Griffon Vultures has nested there and doubtless
y

will continue to nest there for all time since few climbers would feel

A GORGE IN THE UPPER SIERRA.

The River Guadiaro runs about 400 ft. below the portion here shown.

inclined to molest some of their breeding-stations. There are few
places so easily accessible to view as this beautiful gorge for those

300 In the Upper Sierra

who wish to see these grand birds on the wing, A pistol-shot will
always cause them to come sweeping out of the chasm they frequent
as well as bevies of Rock Doves who also find security in these fine

cliffs. On several occasions | have seen Cormorants fishing in

LA CUEVA DEL GATO.

Whence tssues a subterranean stream.

the cataracts below and when disturbed they have flown upwards
and circled aloft many thousands of feet above the sierra, after
the fashion of Vultures, before making off sea-ward.

The most impressive view of this gorge is from a projecting

Subterranean Rivers 301

crag close to the summit known as £7 éa/con, a natural balcony of
rock, whence a stone can be dropped into the boiling stream 420 ft.
below.

The most interesting subterranean stream I know is one not
far from Benaojan which emerges from a huge cavern, over 60 ft.
in height, known as the La Cueva del Gato (the cat's cave) due to
its supposed resemblance to a cat’s head and eyes. The roof of
this cavern is closely studded with hundreds of the mud_ nests
of the House Martin, which are built close together, in many
instances overlapping. The general effect of these as viewed
from the stream 100 ft. below is that of a mason-wasp’s nest
on a gigantic scale. This stream emerges in considerable volume
at a point about 1,450 ft. above the sea. For a long time I
was uncertain whence it came, but a few years ago, when
travelling through the sierra some miles to the north, I came
upon a swift-flowing stream which I was assured disappeared into
the earth. Two years later I had an opportunity to verify this
and chancing to be in the neighbourhood in the late spring when
the water was low, we followed the stream down until it entered
a narrow gorge between vertical cliffs. Working along the top of
these we at length reached the edge of a deep ravine ending in
an amphitheatre of rocks. It was truly a weird spot; we were
walled in by a series of cliffs 300 ft. high or more and above these
were rocky terraces surmounted by two huge pinnacle crags 300 ft.
or 400 ft. still higher, about which a pair of Golden Eagles were
playing. Descending the cliff for 320 ft. we reached the stream
which here enters a huge vertical chasm over 150 ft. in height
and disappears from view round an elbow of rock. It was a most
remarkable spot, for from the whitened and polished rocks in the
bed of the stream where we stood we could look up and see,
over 1,000 ft. right above us, the dark peaks, with the brilliant
blue sky and drifting masses of white cloud above all.

302 In the Upper Sierra

That this stream is the one which emerges at the Cueva
del Gato, some miles distant, I have no reasonable doubt. The

A BIG CAVERN IN THE UPPER SIERRA.

Point where subterranean slream enters.

difference in level, according to barometric readings, between the
points of entrance and exit is about 450 ft.

Disintegrated Limestone 303

During my wanderings I have come across several such sub-
terranean streams but in no other instance have I been able to
trace their exit. Of course at many places, especially near villages
in the sierra, it is a common sight to see an abundant stream
issuing from some cavity in the living rock, sometimes turning the
big water-wheel of a flour-mill, only a few feet from its source.

Doubtless owing to the great age of the limestone and the
extreme alternations of temperature between tropical heat and
winter frosts it must have undergone for countless centuries, many
of the sierras near Ronda are in a very disintegrated condition which
makes them particularly dangerous for climbing as will be seen
in my accounts of taking sundry nests in this district. Rocks which
are thus weathered assume most fantastic shapes and are frequently
known to the people of the sierra by appropriate names. Some-
times, near the very edge of a cliff a most inviting natural balcony
will proffer itself as a point of vantage whence to get a good view
of the precipice below. I was standing on one of these in the
sierra north of Marbella and, anxious to examine a cavern which
looked like a nesting-place, leant my weight on the natural parapet
in front of me and craned over. Suddenly I felt a tremulous
motion and by a great effort threw myself backward just as my
stone balcony, weighing several tons, slipped off its ledge and dis-
appeared with a roar several hundreds of feet down a singularly
nasty precipice. It was my first experience of this sierra and
caused me to make a vow to be more careful in future.

Not far from the same cliff is a curious saddle-back or “nek”
of uptilted strata joining two big hills. Centuries of denudation
have caused the rocks and soil on either side to fall away until
the track along the summit has been narrowed at places to a few
feet. Such is the optical illusion caused by this spot that when
crossing it, particularly on a windy day and with drifting clouds
below, it is not difficult to imagine that you are on a razor-backed

304 In the Upper Sierra

ledge, in fact the Spaniards style it and similar spots 47 Cuchzllo,
the knife-edge. To anybody accustomed to heights it is of course
a place of no account, yet I have known good sportsmen, who have
been compelled to cross it in pursuit of ibex, speak of it with bated
breath. My Spanish companions on the occasion of my visit, men
of the sierra, regaled me with a story how once an Englishman,
finding himself in the middle of it, had laid himself down and held
on to the mountain with both hands!

This mountain is one of those—there are many—where the
Spanish ibex still holds its own. On various occasions when
seeking nests or watching Eagles, I have come across these
animals, sometimes in considerable numbers. One day I chanced
to see about twenty-five feeding together on a rocky hillside
on the grassy patches amid the cistus scrub. I was high above
them and they had no idea of my presence and presently began
to move off slowly westward, feeding as they went. My route
home lay along the bed of a steep rocky gorge and reckoning
that they must cross this I worked along it very quietly, keeping
a sharp look-out, and had the good fortune to intercept the herd
and get within 60 yards of it. There were nine bucks, three with
very fine heads (of course, larger than any I had ever seen), two
ordinary and four smaller ones. It was 17 March. I had no
rifle with me and so after watching them for some time at close
range, | showed myself, when they made off slowly up the hill.

When I first went to Spain there were still a few wolves in
these sierras but they have been almost exterminated by poison
owing to their depredations among the sheep and goats. The last
one to my knowledge was seen by the late Major Harry Fergusson
when out after ibex and passed close to his comrade who, despite
Fergusson’s adjurations, refrained from shooting it as he imagined
it must be a big dog! From what I hear, the numbers of both
Bearded Vultures and Eagles have been sensibly reduced by this
habit of laying poison for wolves and foxes,

Choughs and Alpine Accentors 305

Some of the summits of the Serrania de Ronda present an
almost unique scene of desolation. Countless ages of climatic
influences have so denuded the surface of all soil that there are at
places many square miles where the surface is of rock and rock
alone.

In addition, the action of rain and snow has enlarged the joints
in the rock surface, in some cases to inches and in others to several
feet in width, whereby the general surface is divided and sub-
divided into innumerable detached masses separated by vertically-
sided ravines. At the foot of these a certain amount of soil has
been formed, and here fine grasses as well as flowers are to be
seen. Now and again a particularly insistent wild olive finds sus-
tenance at the bottom of one of these fissures and its upper branches
appear above the general waste of broken-up rock.

Save for a passing Eagle overhead, this region has hardly any
bird-life. Rarely is the silence broken by the cheery call of the
Chough (Pyrrhocorav graculus). Vhese birds, both in their cry
and sociable habits, very much resemble our Jackdaws. They nest
in small colonies, usually in the most inaccessible places, an especially
favourite one being a cavern or shelf of rock below some big over-
hanging crag. One of the few species met with in these stony
wastes is the Alpine Accentor (Accentor collaris), They are ex-
tremely tame and usually appear to be so engrossed in their search
for food about the small grassy patches amid the rocks as to pay
but little attention to the passer-by. Another species haunting the
higher sierra during the nesting season is the Rock Bunting
(Emberiza cia), a bird which is assuredly more stupidly tame than
the Corn Bunting and will often continue to hop about the surface
of some rock and feed unconcernedly within a few yards of any-
body who may pause to watch its movements.

Peregrine Falcons (falco peregrinus) are to be met with at
intervals. I once found three eggs of this species laid in the disused

306 In the Upper Sierra

nest of a Bearded Vulture. Kestrels are, as might be expected,
ubiquitous as also are Rock Doves.

The higher summits of these limestone mountains are composed
of a series of pinnacles of horizontal strata much weathered, as can
be seen by the accompanying photograph of the summit of the
sierra near Jimera. This was taken at a height of about 4,100 ft.

A SUMMIT IN THE SERRANIA DE RONDA.

(Carboniferous limestone.)

One of the largest of these desolate stony hills is the Sierra de
Libar which rises to considerably over 5,000 ft. For many miles
around, its white stony surface bare of any herbage, dominating
this portion of the sierras can be singled out from among the sea
of surrounding mountains. On most sides it is scarped by preci-
pices or by steep slopes of broken rocks fallen from above, making
access to its higher parts difficult and toilsome. A few rarely used

Brigands and their Ways 307

veredas pass through this waste of rocks. It was here that a
famous brigand, popularly known to his admirers as ‘Monte Cristo,”
or as “Cristo,” was eventually brought to book. I am aware that
a book on Spain without some account of brigands is popularly
considered incomplete as one which deals with the Peninsula
without a description of a bull-fight. Despite many years of wan-
dering in remote spots, I have no adventures with brigands to retail
and I make the confession with equanimity, for it is at best a very
one-sided game to play at. Of course during my time there have
been instances of brigandage and the old system of capture for
ransom by the gentry known to the inhabitants as secuestradores
has been put into practice from time to time. When I first went
to Spain, the famous incident of the capture and ransom of the
brothers Bonel had only just been concluded. This occurred
literally under the guns of Gibraltar. I met both brothers con-
stantly and it was always a standing joke that after their unpleasant
experience they ceased to take any interest in riding out into
Spain and were content to take their daily horse exercise within
the British Lines.

Probably the reason why I have escaped any trouble is first,
because those engaged in the interesting task of capturing people
and holding them for ransom have an extremely shrewd idea as to
the monetary value of their quarry and, secondly, they are quite
sharp enough to realize that as a general rule it is best to leave
Englishmen alone, owing to the probability of energetic action being
taken to put a stop to their trade.

That admirable body, known as the Guardia Civil, make it
their business to look after the safety of any travellers, especially
travelling Englishmen; and since their motto is eminently “ pre-
vention is better than cure,” they take steps to prevent people going
into any district which they know to be infested by dangerous
characters. Thus, some fifteen years ago, | was anxious to explore

308 In the Upper Sierra

a certain sierra for some nests, but in reply to my enquiries the
Guardia Cwrl absolutely forbade me to go into it on account of
a well-known farteda or gang under a certain José, I forget who.
Two years later when again in the same district, I received a visit
from the Guardia Civil and was told that I might go where I
pleased. ‘ What about José?” I asked. ‘‘Oh!” replied the corporal
with a smile, “he is all right, I shot him: see here,” with which
he produced with great delight the small book carried by these
excellent fellows in which they enter a full description of the folk
they have to deal with, either as ‘‘ wanted,” “ prisoners” or ‘how
disposed of.”

The last occasion when there was any trouble in the Serrania
was when the already mentioned Monte Cristo was conducting
operations. After many delays, a determined attempt to capture
him was made and his gang was broken up. Cristo and one
comrade took refuge in the wilderness of the Sierra de Libar and
one morning early was surprised in a goatherds’ cottage or shealing
in a remote valley near the summit. I chanced to be passing the
spot some months later and had the tale from a man who had been
in the Sierra at the time and who pointed me out the various points
of interest involved.

Cristo appears to have received warning of the approach of
the enemy and with his one remaining adherent bolted from the
cottage and gained cover amid a small mass of broken rocks on the
open stony hillside a few hundred yards above. Here he turned
to bay and when the Gwardzas attempted to close on him kept
them at a distance with his Winchester repeating rifle. Numbers
however prevailed and the Guardias gradually worked round the
flanks across the broken ground and brought a fire to bear on
him from three sides. At last his fire ceased and they rushed in,
only to find his comrade lying wounded and Cristo himself dead,
killed apparently by the bursting of his Winchester repeating rifle,

The Fate of ‘“ Monte Cristo” 309

which had been struck by one of the Guardias’ bullets. His body

was tied upon a donkey and with difficulty, owing to the extreme

g
roughness of the country, conveyed to the valley below whence it
was taken to Ronda and exposed in the market-place for some days,
in order to assure all concerned of the fact of his death. But it is
hard to convince some people, and not least, my old friends of the
sierra, for to this day it is said and popularly believed that the man
the Guardias slew was not Cristo at all, who they assert had made
arrangements involving certain pecuniary considerations to get
another man captured in his place, he undertaking to leave the
district for good and all. Of the truth or falsity of this tale it is
obviously impossible to determine, but only a few months since
when I asked a man who looked as if he might have been a disciple
of Cristo how the latter fared, he smiled and with a wave of his
hand replied genially ‘‘ He is well, he’s gone to the north.”

It would be impossible for me to attempt to describe the fascina-
tion which this forbidding region exercises over me and equally
over those I have taken through it. I have seen it under all con-
ditions ; of a summer’s day when the sun’s rays strike on the rocks
around and make the valleys a very inferno, or in mid-winter,
either in the rainy season when every valley contains a roaring
torrent or again in hard frost when even the quick-running streams
are frozen over and the ice on deep pools will carry the weight of
a man. Never were there such vicissitudes of temperature and
climate.

In early spring the small patches of cultivation, rich brown soil
or vivid green pasture, usually with a delicate setting of pink
blossoms around their edges where the almond trees flourish, are
seen hundreds of feet below, surrounded by the eternal almost
white crags. Later in the season the more sheltered hillsides are
a blaze of colour with crimson peonies which grow in great profusion
amid the limestone.

310 In the Upper Sierra

The distant panoramic views from some of these sierras are
magnificent beyond description. Even from the Hacho of Gaucin,
the summit of the conical mountain above that town and only 3,280 ft.
above the sea-level a superb view is obtainable on a clear day.
From this point and from many others like it the various streams
that join the Guadiaro can be seen sparkling as they wind through
undulating hills far below, their courses marked by bright yellow
sand-banks and by sinuous lanes of crimson oleander which fade
away into the distance.

The Mediterranean and Straits of Gibraltar have the appear-
ance of a great lake, the Rock rising near the hither shore like
a small grey cone against a background of blue water. The
great height and size of the opposite Pillar of Hercules, Ape’s
Hill, comes home when thus viewed at a distance from a height,
also the vastness of the great tumbled mass of mountains which skirt
the Straits towards Tangier and extend southward to Tetuan and
beyond. Beyond Ceuta the distant outline of the Riff Coast can
be discerned and far, far beyond this, the magnificent chain of
blue mountains—the Atlas—capped with snow, which rear their
heads above the heat mist shimmering over the intervening region,
which, to this day, is a sealed book to Europeans.

1
5
EAGLE OWL.
Bubo tgnavus (T. Forster).

art

CHAPTER. IV:

THE EAGLE OWL (Bubo ignavus).

Retiring habits—Residents of Gibraltar in 1776—First acquaintance in wild
state—Prolonged search for nest—Successful after nineteen years—An
Eagle Owl’s nest—An Owlet—Parental precaution—Favourite nesting-
places—An Eagle Owl’s crag—Disadvantages of climbing alone—Descend
to the nest—An Eagle Owl’s cavern—Manners and customs of young—
A lower to a nest—Retriever as an assistant—Photographing Owlets in
nest—Eagle Owls’ larders—Hunting at sundown—Kept in confinement—
Savage nature—Courage—Voracity—Deadly feud with Aberdeen Terrier—

Eagle Owls’ cries.

the bounds of

T would perhaps be difficult to

find any one of the larger
raptorial birds so well-known
to all bird-lovers and yet so
seldom seen in the wild state
—save indeed by the very
few who may chance to pene-
trate into the remote districts
as the Eagle Owl.
For unlike the Vultures, Eagles

it frequents

and Harriers which inhabit the
same regions and which, owing
either to- their habit of soaring
aloft or of beating a tract of
country in quest of food, are
often seen, the Eagle Owl de-

lights in secluded valleys, beyond

which it seldom emerges by day.

The Eagle Owl

But although so parochial in its habits by day, by night it goes
further afield, as is amply proved by the remains of some of the
birds commonly found in its larder, whose habitat is far removed
from the districts where Eagle Owls nest.

Despite its retiring disposition and marked predilection thus
to limit its sphere of action by day to certain well-defined localities,
its appearance is familiar to many owing to the ease with which
it is kept in confinement. In fact there are few large collections
of living birds where it may not be seen, whilst its great size and
striking appearance always attract attention to it, whether alive in
an aviary or stuffed on the shelves of a museum.

Its nocturnal habit—though it is far from being entirely a night
bird in the wilder regions it inhabits—causes its movements to
be but seldom seen. Thus, I know of a pair which have nested
on the Rock of Gibraltar for over thirty years and although | have
listened to their strange calls by night many times, I have only
once seen one of the birds on the wing by day during that period.

To those unversed in the ways of birds, and more especially
those who do not know the extraordinary persistency with which
certain species frequent the same localities year after year, it may
come as a surprise to learn that in 1776 just one hundred years
before I first met with the Eagle Owls at Gibraltar, the Rev. John
White wrote to his brother, the famous Gilbert White of Selborne,
to report their presence there.

In the quest of all wild birds’ nests, although at times chance
may favour the seeker, it not uncommonly happens that years pass
before the most diligent search for a nest is rewarded by success.
It was my case with the Eagle Owl.

So far back as May 1875, when wandering with Fergusson up the
o bird flew out

watercourse of a gorge in a Spanish sierra, a big
of the heather-grown crags about 300 ft. above us and _ passing

overhead disappeared round the shoulder of the opposite hill. My

A protracted Quest 313

companion cried out ‘“ Eagle Owl over.” Neither he nor [ had
ever in our lives seen one on the wing but the bird was unmistak-
able. It was naturally a surprise to both of us to see a bird which
we supposed to be nocturnal flying high across country in the
brilliant sunshine, but later experiences showed me that this species
would seem to have even less dislike to flying by day than has
our own Short-eared Owl.

Having seen the bird, the next point was how to find its nest.
Here we were hopelessly at fault: year followed upon year, and
although I repeatedly came across what I imagined to be old nests
of Eagle Owls and unquestionably were places they habitually
frequented, | was never rewarded by a sight of their eggs. In
this I was not singular, for Colonel Irby has placed it on record
in his “Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar” that, despite
years of diligent search, he was never able to find their nests.
Over and over again did I come across the old birds, generally sit-
ting in some shady cavern in a sandstone crag, whence they would
dash out on my approach. Once indeed I nearly succeeded in my
quest in so far that I found a pair had taken possession of a cave
which had previously been the nesting station of a Bonelli’s Eagle.
They had cleared out the Eagle’s nest, sticks and all, and excavated
a neat basin in the soft black earth forming the floor of the cavern.
This depression was about 15 in. across and of the form and shape
of a shallow circular dish. All around its edges was a neat frill
of whitening bones of rabbits, rats and birds which had obviously
once formed part of the “castings” or pellets of fur, feather and
bone which all Owls and other raptorial birds reject the day
following a meal. But the Eagle Owl never laid in the nest this
year, possibly alarmed at my visit.

It was not until exactly nineteen years after my first sight of
one on the wing that I was to be permitted to accomplish the task
I had set before myself. In April 1894 I was once again in the

314 The Eagle Owl

sierra | had visited in 1875, and I was scrambling along a steep
hillside amid the deep cistus and high heath when an Eagle Owl
skimmed past me carrying something and was quickly lost to view
over a rocky hillside some hundreds of yards to my front. As the
bird did not emerge from the valley it had entered, I reckoned it
had most probably settled somewhere among the crags. So fol-
lowing it up I proceeded to examine several low cliffs near the
summit of the hill which seemed to offer likely breeding stations.
It was the identical spot where I had first seen the Eagle Owl on the
wing so many years before. It was whilst forcing my way through
some giant white heath, along a very steeply sloped terrace between
some big rocks, that I had the good luck to flush the Eagle Owl
almost to my feet. In a few moments I had found the nest! It was
nothing more than a shallow basin in the soft earth at the roots of
the heather and under the shade of a big rock. Save for the steep-
ness of the hillside and the difficulty of forcing one’s way through the
heath it was so placed that literally anybody could have reached it.
In the nest was a fine young Owlet in the early “down” stage, about
a week old, also an addled egg. Around the nest were many
pellets of fur and feather whilst a freshly killed water-vole, the
lower portion of a rabbit, a young weasel and the remains of
a Peewit lay close alongside the infant which was about 6 in. in
length. The Peewit was of peculiar interest since these birds,
although extremely abundant in southern Spain in the winter,
nearly all depart northwards in March.

My subsequent education in Eagle Owls and their ways may
be said to date from this moment. Ten days after this I revisited
the nest and found the young bird still in the ‘‘down” stage
although it had doubled in size and had blue quills 1 in, in length
on its wings, whence the primary feathers were just emerging.
A week later, judging that the Owlet would have emerged from
the ‘‘down” sufficiently to ensure its survival in captivity (for, as

Favourite Nesting Stations 315

is well-known, nearly ali raptorial birds succumb to cramp if taken
when too young), I went again to see it. But the nest was empty!
After a careful search all around I could only find a second empty
nest almost exactly similar and similarly placed, less than 20 yards
distant from the first, and likewise a third undoubted resort of Eagle
Owls. It was quite clear that the old birds, resenting my intrusion
in the first instance, had moved their young to a place of safety,
and so it happily escaped me. I learned however from this experience
that the popular ideas of Eagle Owls nesting in stupendous cliffs or
inaccessible caverns was a myth. Since then I have come across
and closely watched very many pairs of Eagle Owls and have found
numerous nests, many of which I have visited and in hardly a single
instance has a nest been in a cliff where a rope was a necessity in
order to reach it. The birds, in fact, look for immunity to the vast
extent of the wild country they inhabit and in the rough nature of
the ground.

The favourite locality for a nest would seem to be on a shelf
or terrace on the face of a crag some 10 to 50 ft. from the ground
where genista heath or cistus grows in profusion and where, on the
soft soil between the shrubs and the face of the cliff, the earthy nest
is excavated sometimes 3 ins. in depth and the egys laid. The
eggs, usually two in number are pure white and of the size of a
fowl’s and nearly globular in shape. The picture is of a nest on
a terrace amid some crags about 60 ft. high, easily reached from
the top of the cliff and not more than 15 ft. from the ground.

The year following my first introduction to the young of the
Eagle Owl I once again visited the cliff where I had found the
empty Eagle Owl’s nest, formerly tenanted by Bonelli’s Eagle.
This was in a small cavern situated about 20 ft. from the summit
on the face of a crag 80 or go ft. in height. A picture of this crag
is given in the chapter on Bonelli's Eagle on p. 334. A second

322

showing the profile of the cliff will be found on p. further on in

316 The Eagle Owl

this chapter. Arrived at the top of the crag I dropped some
stones over and shouted and eventually sallied an Eagle Owl. As

NEST OF EAGLE OWL ON TERRACE ON CLIFF.

owing to the time of year it was almost a certainty that the nest

8
must contain eggs and as I still lacked a pair for my collection
(having only the discoloured addled egg of the previous year),

To Slip or not to Slip? 317

I was extremely anxious to descend to this nest. To reach it
with a rope was a very simple affair, a mere matter of being lowered
some 20 ft. but I had no rope with me and further was all alone
and, what was even more deterring, my whereabouts at the time
were known to nobody. On the other hand, to postpone the
descent and to return another day with ropes was impossible as
I was leaving the district early the following morning. The climb
was just awkward enough to make one want a companion, for
owing to certain experiences I have the greatest dislike to the
idea of running the risks of being disabled on some remote cliff.
Many years previously when endeavouring to work along the face
of a crag to reach a nest of the Blue Rock Thrush I had lost my
footing and fallen, only a few feet it is true, certainly not more
than ten, when I Juckily brought up on a ledge, but the bruising
and shaking I then got was so severe as to prevent me from
attempting to move from that ledge for over an hour and the
memory of such an untoward experience endures for all time.
Further I had ever before me when working alone amid cliffs the
already mentioned tale of the Bluejacket who attempted to go
round the back of the Rock alone. It was decidedly a case
for clear thinking, so | sat down and had it out with myself. 1
reflected how it was a reasonable certainty that this nest contained
egos and that for twenty years I had wanted some for my collection
and here I was now within 20 ft, of them. As regards the risks
run and the disadvantages of having no friend at hand, after a
further reconnaissance over the edge of the cliff, always by the
way a most deterring operation when a climber is of two minds,
I came to the deliberate conclusion that: (1) the chances were
even that I would xo¢ slip; (2) that if I ad slip, the chances were
a thousand to one that a companion would be of no use to me, nor
I of any further use toa companion. So I took off my boots and
all superfluous clothing and feeling cautiously for some hand-hold

318 The Eagle Owl

dropped over the edge and after a few anxious moments, found
myself safe and sound in the cave! Nor was I unrewarded for
the risk I had run, for at the far end of the cavern was the Eagle
Owl’s nest exactly as I had seen it in the same spot fifteen years
before with the difference that, this time in place of being empty,
it contained two eggs! My happiness was complete! But I then
remembered with horror that | had no means of carrying my prize
in safety during the return climb, for I was in my shirt and knee-
breeches only! I tried to put one big egg in my mouth and only
succeeded in putting a tooth into it! Eventually with the precious
eggs slung in my socks held in my teeth, I commenced the ascent.
This, as usual when climbing on good sound rock, proved much
easier than the descent and I was soon in a place of safety and
thankful to find that the injured egg was only damaged on one side
and would make a fair show in my egg cabinet.

This time I had not attempted to take my camera with
me and wisely so, for it would have greatly impeded my climb
and as events proved could not have been used since it was the one
with the fixed focus of 7 ft.

The pen and ink sketch at the end of the chapter is from
a water-colour drawing I made from this nest many years ago
when it was occupied by a pair of Bonelli’s Eagle. Small as
is the cliff, it will be seen from the sketch what an extensive
view both Eagles and Eagle Owls had over the surrounding
country. That at the beginning of the chapter is from another
water-colour sketch and shows the climber at the moment of
reaching the level of the nest.

I however, revisited the same spot on several subsequent years
and found the nest always occupied by the Eagle Owls, and having
now a camera which I could use with effect at short distances, |
was able to get photographs of the nest and eggs with the remains
of a rabbit conveniently disposed in the larder hard by.

Young Eagle Owls 319

One year, it was in the spring of 1903, on descending to this
nest I found it occupied by two most delightful Eagle Owlets.
They were about half grown and a mass of fluffy down and finely
vermiculated feathers, In vain did I try to photograph them.

NEST OF EAGLE OWL IN CAVERN ON FACE OF CLIFF.

Owing to the darkness of the cavern a considerable time exposure
was necessary and it was simply impossible to get both to remain
quiet. At times one of them would elect to resolve itself into
a ball of apparently inanimate down for thirty seconds or so, but

not so the other which would proceed to expand its plumage

320 The Eagle Owl

until almost double its ordinary size and then slowly subside to
its normal dimensions to the accompaniments of vollies of loud
snaps of its beak. No sooner had one gone through this
manceuvre and come to rest than the other would commence a
similar performance.

I took these young savages and reared them successfully.

C=)

From the very first they showed fight. When they were not

YOUNG EAGLE OWLS IN COURTYARD

more than a few weeks old I endeavoured to photograph them
in the courtyard of the house where I was staying and the wrath
and contempt they evinced at my efforts on this occasion are in
some degree reproduced by the picture then taken. The séance
was abruptly closed by one of them, not the supercilious one,
suddenly making a vicious run at the camera.

As already mentioned, two eggs is the usual complement laid

My considerate Retriever 321

but I have more than once heard of three young owls in a nest
and have myself found a nest with three eggs. This was in 1905
and in the same nest as the owlets of two years before. I went
down the cliff this time on a light rope and, despite the gloom
of the cavern, got the photograph of the three eggs at 18 in.
distance.

Having done the camera work I called out to Admiral Farquhar
who had remained with the party who were handling the rope at

EGGS OF EAGLE OWL IN NEST AT END OF CAVERN.

(Size:2:3)ins 3, 9.1n.)

the top of the cliff to come down and join me as I knew he was
anxious to take some Eagle Owl's eggs himself. This he did,
and I ascended. As I came over the cliff I was met by my
retriever “ Sweep” who was sitting with his paws over the edge,
showing his teeth and apparently pleased to see his master safely
back. I had, prior to descending, taken the usual precaution of
making one end of the line fast to a rock, a very convenient
21

322 The Eagle Owl

practice when possible, for several reasons. Chancing to look
round as I was picking up my discarded gear, I was horrified to
see that the rope upon which my friend was depending had been
neatly cut through about a yard behind the point where two of
the party who were doing the lowering work were grasping it.
Of course a caution for them to hold on was all that was

PROFILE OF CRAG WITH CAVERN.
Nesting Place of Eagle Owl, and formerly of Bonelli’s Eagle.

needed and no harm befell anyone, but the humour of the
situation lay distinctly with the retriever, who tired of being
“down -charged” alongside my clothes had whiled away his
leisure by thus severing the line of communication between the
rock above and his master below. Subsequently I worked round
the flank of this little cliff and got a photograph of its profile,

Photographing Eagle Owlets 323

on a very small scale it is true, but large enough to show one
of the party descending to the cavern and those engaged in
handling the rope at the summit. To some extent too it may
graphically account for my dislike as described earlier in this
chapter to going over this cliff without a rope or a friend to
gather up the fragments.

In 1907 I visited yet another well-known and long-established
nesting place of the Eagle Owl, which has been regularly occupied
by these birds to my knowledge since 1869, and probably for
decades or centuries before that date. My object was to get a
photograph of the young in a situation where there would be
enough light for a snap-shot, since experience had taught me that
it was almost hopeless to get them to remain still for any time.
As this nest is placed so that the morning sun shines into it, |
felt sure that with good fortune I ought to succeed. The nest is
on a shelf of rock in a crag about 50 ft. immediately above a pool
of water and can be literally walked into by the most timid
of climbers and in consequence is exposed to constant risk both of
being harried and disturbed. On reaching it I found it empty
but next moment I detected the two young Owls which had taken
shelter from the heat of the sun’s rays, in the midst of a bush
of cytisus. They were fully fledged and had they been permitted
to do so, could and would have flapped away and fallen into the
water below. ‘To prevent this, I got my companion to sit at the
far end of the ledge whilst I herded the two youngsters back
into their nest. This they submitted to under protest with many
objurgations and violent snaps of their beaks together with
savage grabs made with their sharp talons. Finally they resumed
their position in the nest, one remaining quiescent for a time
whilst the other flung itself backwards and struck out furiously
as | brought the camera to bear at close range, in which eminently
characteristic attitude it appears on the next page.

324 The Eagle Owl

The larder is always an interesting feature with the Eagle
Owl, and when there are young birds in a nest, it is sometimes
large and varied. Five times have | found rabbits, usually with
the head and upper portion of the body eaten ; thrice water-voles ;
whilst in nearly every nest were remains of Peewits, Kestrels,

YOUNG EAGLE OWLS IN NEST.

Partridges and various small birds. The Peewits no doubt fall
an easy prey to the great Owls, owing to their crepuscular habits.
All who have waited for duck at flight-time know how irritating
are the Peewits at that hour of the evening as with querulous
cry and loudly humming wings—there is no other word to describe

Eagle Owl and Peewit 225
the sound they produce as they “shy” at an intruder, which is
like that of an electric fan—they cross the view of the expectant
shooter and spoil many a fleeting chance of a shot at Wigeon.
It was therefore with no small joy and gratification that one
evening in March 1907 when crouching in a marsh after sundown

for the Wigeon to drop in, and with the Peewits doing their

Ss
best to annoy and disconcert me, that I beheld in the fading
western light a glorious Eagle Owl skimming straight towards
me. At the same instant a Peewit passed within a few feet of
my face and next moment there was a rush of wings and a cry
and a flutter and I knew my friend had replenished his larder
up in the sierra and that the two hungry owlets in the heather
would not go supperless that night.

As to the Eagle Owls preying upon the Kestrels, I have no
ocular proof of how they manage it. But I know of several Owls’
larders which are always full, year after year, of Kestrels primary
feathers and other remains. As_ Kestrels, especially when in
colonies, are very much given to fluttering around their nesting
stations and making a considerable disturbance about sundown, |
imagine that the Owls take this opportunity to capture a certain
number of them.

I have for over five years kept the couple of Eagle Owls whose
portrait is given on p. 320 in an aviary where they have flourished
exceedingly and consumed an almost incredible number of rats.
Excessively savage as already described when first taken, they
gradually became more amenable and would consent to take food
from me and eat in my presence. My repeated prolonged absences,
however, during the winter months in Spain have caused them to
revert to their original uncouth habits, so much so that now it is no
unusual thing for them to strike violently at me when I enter their
dwelling. This is a good-sized cage built around an ivy tree and
with a high pent thatched roof in the deep shadow of which is fixed

326 The Eagle Owl

a barrel. Here when sated they sit side by side, indulging in
pistol-like cracks of their beaks when interviewed. But they by no
means avoid the light and are often to be seen of a fine day, sitting
in the bright sunshine enjoying the warmth of its rays. After
various minor engagements with them, during which I received a
series of more or less painful stabs from the needle-like hinder
talons with which they strike, | procured a fencing mask which to
some extent prevents my being taken unawares when engaged in
cleaning out or regulating their cage. The courage and pertinacity
of these big birds is amazing. One day last summer one of
them, after making a violent attack on me which was repulsed with
a rake-handle, returned to the assault on eight successive occasions
and eventually struck its claws well into my shoulder, after which
it retired to its tub and fired volleys of “snaps” at me, evidently
much pleased at its success. Despite such minor adventures, feed-
ing Eagle Owls is ever a joy to me, for there is a quaintness and
originality about their ways and movements which must be seen to
be appreciated.

When food is brought them, they fly to a convenient point such
as a log or perch and watch every movement of the feeder intently.
Upon a rat or bird being thrown to them they spring up with
marvellous agility and “field” it with unerring accuracy, with either
left or right foot, even when bowled “wide,” dropping back to
their perch with their booty. Then if undisturbed, should the
food be of reasonable dimensions, such as a half-grown rat, or
a sparrow, it is gravely raised in the talons of one foot and held
somewhat as a meditative smoker at times holds his cigar or
pipe. Next moment it is seized in the beak head-foremost and
swallowed whole. As it disappears the throat is expanded and
the beautiful patch of white feathers on it, at other times hardly
noticeable, becomes most conspicuous. A pause now generally
ensues, all trace of the meal having departed save an inch or

Habits when kept in Aviary 927

two inches of rat’s tail which hangs pensively down from one
corner of the mouth, or, in the case of a sparrow, occasionally the
extremity of the tail feathers. The production of more food at
once causes a final gulp to be made and the first course finally
disappears, the Owl getting ready for another catch. Three
young rats or four or five sparrows seem to be thus stowed with but
little effort.

The general appearance of the Eagle Owl is known to most
people, but few save those who have seen them close at hand
realize the marvellous size, brilliancy of colour and depth of their
great yellow eyes, which combined with their so-called “ears,” fine
black tufts on either side of the head, give them a most horrific
and impressive appearance. When alarmed or on the alert they
compress their plumage and elongate their bodies making a
picture of savage determination and strength either to fight or flee.
To noises, especially those they are unaccustomed to, they are
peculiarly sensitive. The rumbling of a cart or waterbarrow for a
long time caused them great alarm, which they showed by dashing
aimlessly around their cage. When irritated and angry they assume
extraordinary attitudes; every feather on their bodies stands erect,
nearly tripling their natural size, whilst their wings are raised on
high and arched around so as to form a regular wreath of feathers, in
the centre of which appears their heads with their huge yellow eyes
flashing, their bodies swaying from side to side as they rest first on
one feathered leg and then on the other, all the time giving vent to
an appalling series of pistol-shot snaps. This is apparently their
stock-in-trade for alarming any would-be attackers, and is certainly
very effective with cats and many dogs, who are clearly at a loss to
divine what class of enemy they have to encounter.

For my diminutive Aberdeen terrier ‘‘ Garry” they have an
intense dislike and with small wonder for, whenever he sees them
sitting near the wire, he hurls himself at their cage barking furiously

328 The Eagle Owl

and raging up and down in his attempts to get at them. They on
their part are no less anxious to close with him and frequently strike
vigorously at the wire in the hopes of damaging him. This warfare
has gone on now for five years and both parties are absolutely
convinced of their power to obtain a victory and no doubt also in
the justice of their cause. Such is Garry’s hatred of these birds
that he has made repeated efforts when I enter their cage to slip in
after me, but as he is equaliy anxious to have a personal explana-
tion with my captive Bonelli’s Eagle, I have no doubt his courage
causes him to imagine himself capable in both cases of defeating
them. The bitterness of the quarrel has been accentuated by my
giving the big birds live rats to kill, a task he looks upon as one
of his especial prerogatives.

When food of larger size, such as a rabbit or full-grown rat, is
offered to them, they dash down and seize it and either fly off with
it in their talons or, holding it in one foot, limp away on the other
dragging it after them. Arrived at a convenient spot they tuck
their prey under them and fluffing out the beautiful vermiculated
feathers on and about their thighs until they assume the shape
of a pair of big Zouave trousers completely hide their coming
meal. On one occasion I threw in a couple of largish half-
grown rabbits, which were promptly seized; one Owl, however,
happened to take alarm and dropped its ration, upon which its
comrade seized the two, and disposing them in a convenient heap,
quickly expanded his (or her) trousers until both rabbits were com-
pletely concealed. The other bird now returned to retrieve its
dropped rabbit, and it was a study to observe the anxiety with which
it lurched around the cage on the vain quest whilst the other sat
erect, puffed out but placid and immovable on top of both rabbits.
It was not until the rake-handle had been vigorously applied
that the wearer of the Zouave breeches consented to part with his

comrade’s rabbit.

Their Curious Cries 329

In captivity these birds are somewhat silent; after being fed
they usually give a series of weird ‘“boo-oos” of satisfaction ;
whence their Spanish name of ézho (the aspirate being dropped
in that language). They also have another cry somewhat resembl-
ing a Heron’s, which I only hear them utter after night-fall. But
in a wild state their cries are peculiarly fascinating and varied,
and many a night in the hot summer evenings in Spain have
I listened with delight as these grand birds uttered their wild,
melancholy, hollow calls which echo and re-echo along the rugged
cliffs and gorges in which they spend their joyful existence.

CHAP aE RV.
BONELLI’S EAGLE (Nisaétus fasciatus).

Used in falconry—Ancient residents at Gibraltar—My first Eagles’ nest—
Elaborate preparations—An amateur lowering party—Plumage of Bonellis,
adult and young—Great size and power of legs and feet—Records of a
Bonelli family—Number of eggs laid—Favourite food—An exchange of
eggs, tame Goose’s for Eagle’s—A ridiculous episode—‘‘ Only a_photo-
grapher ’—Rape of the tame Goose’s egg—A nasty cliff—A well-drilled
lowering party—Admiral Farquhar descends—Perils of old limestone—A
nest in rg08—An extemporized camera stand — Hanging the operator—
Young Bonelli in nest—Bonelli’s Eagle in captivity — Enormous power of
feet-—Savage nature—Splendid powers of flight.

—_—

HIS comparatively small Eagle
appears to have escaped
notice until about the year
1822. It is almost inex-
plicable how the bird should
not have attracted attention
earlier, for it isso thoroughly
aquiline in its build, plum-
age and habits that it is
impossible to confound it
with the Buzzards and other

lesser raptorial birds. It is
essentially a rock-frequent-
ing species and ranges over
a considerable portion of the
Old World, being found in
places suited to its habits from Spain to Central Asia.

DESCENT TO NEST OF BONELLI’S EAGLE.

Used in Falconry in Asia 2%

Like many other people whose education in birds had been
limited to the so-called British list, I had never even heard
of its existence until I first went to Spain in 1874. But I had
not been many days at Gibraltar before I noticed a pair of Eagles
which frequented and, I am happy to say, still frequent, the great
cliffs on its eastern side, and thus made the acquaintance of a
species which hitherto had been beyond my very limited scope
of bird-knowledge. But in addition to the natural interest awakened
by thus finding myself for the first time in my life in a position
to watch and learn something of the habits of Eagles, as a falconer
and the son of a falconer I was intensely attracted by Bonelli’s
Eagle when I learned that it was the same species which the
Afghans employ for hawking small deer. For various reasons the
larger Eagles have been found to be unsuited for falconry, but there
was a report that in Central Asia there was a medium-sized Eagle
which was more tractable and this was none other than Bonelli’s.
According to R. Thompson, Bonelli’s Eagle will take young deer
and full-grown hares; and Allan Hume who quotes this in his
book adds ‘I have myself seen it.”

The pair of Eagles which had nested at the back of the
Rock from time immemorial (for with Eagles as with a_well-
established dynasty, there is no break or interlude in the line of
autocrats of a definite area), until the advent of Bonelli, had
rejoiced in the euphonious but ambiguous name of agweda de las
rocas. To the alien English garrison they were likewise known
as ‘Rock Eagles” a term which, as Colonel Irby truly remarks,
was all-sufficient for those who would style a Buzzard a Bustard
and vice versa.

It may be readily imagined with what absorbing interest I set
myself to watch these birds from a point of vantage at the top
of the Rock. In those days the Signal Station was in charge
of a Serjeant of the Royal Artillery who had, since he attained

332 Bonelli’s Eagle

that elevated position, taken a keen interest in the Eagles and
their nesting and kept notes of them. With the aid of one
of the powerful telescopes which formed part of his signalman’s
equipment I was enabled to watch the birds and thus receive
my first lessons in the art of studying Eagles in their haunts.
I also then first learned, from the Sergeant and Eagles combined,
the mysteries of the alternative sites for nesting, adopted by
raptorial birds.

This particular pair of Bonelli’s Eagles has at least three,
if not four, nesting sites on the face of the great precipice south
of the Signal Station. One of these sites was in full view of
the Signal Station Battery of those days. It happened that in
the following February the Eagles selected this site for their nesting-
place for 1875, and although I carefully reconnoitred it from both
above and below, it was quite beyond my powers, at the time, to
reach it. For to do so required a knowledge of cliff-work which
I then lacked and further, not only an ample supply of ropes,
but of assistants to work them which were. then, so far as |
was concerned, unobtainable. There was moreover the ancient
Garrison Order prohibiting the molestation of the wild birds on
the Rock. I however argued to myself that there most assuredly
must be other pairs of Bonellis Eagle nesting in the moun-
tainous country north of Gibraltar and, during the course of an
extended expedition later on in the spring, I actually located two
pairs. Both were nesting in very big cliffs, over goo ft. high
and in sites inaccessible without plenty of rope, which we did not
possess.

In the following year when riding out from the Rock I saw
a pair on the wing but so obsessed was I at this time with the
popular belief that Eagles only nested in stupendous cliffs that
I did not endeavour to track them. Again, a year later when
out with the Calpe Hounds I saw one of these Eagles, not far

My First Eagle's Nest 333
from the same crags where I had noted the pair during the
preceding year.

Recognizing that there must obviously be some reason for this
which was worthy of investigation, I took an early Opportunity,
unobserved, of leaving the hounds. For it is needless to explain
that no British officer has any right to abandon the scientific
pursuit of a fox in order to follow an Eagle!

I however was rewarded for my pains by seeing the bird, after
sailing around high above some rocky ravines, eventually lower
its flight and disappear into a gorge, where I knew there was
a small cliff. I did not venture to follow up my observations on
that day for the all-sufficing reason that the ravine in question was
a favourite point for foxes to make for. To be found anywhere
in the district would bring down upon me the charge of “heading
the fox”! Since my own Colonel at this time was Master of
the Calpe Hunt, this was, to say the least, undesirable.

Some days later I rode out with a brother subaltern, the
present Sir Bartle Frere, and having picketed our horses, we
made our way to the top of the suspect cliff. On reaching the
edge, I cracked my hunting whip upon which a female Bonelli
dashed out from a point almost exactly below where we. stood.
At last I had succeeded in my long-protracted quest. It was
quite a small place, a nearly vertical crag less than go ft. in height
standing above a steeply sloping hill-side, which gave it the
appearance of being much higher. But to examine it a rope
was necessary and we returned to the Rock to arrange details.

It was in truth an eventful day in my birdsnesting life when
I set out, some days later, to attempt to get this nest. I had no
experience of rope work on cliffs but like most people had read
various accounts of its alleged perils. I accordingly made_pre-
parations which, in view of many years subsequent experiences
of really dangerous cliffs, now cause me some amusement. For

334 Bonelli’s Eagle

my lowering party I secured no less than three recruits. One,
my friend of the previous visit, a second being another Rifleman,
Harry Fergusson, and the third, an officer from the garrison.

NESTING PLACE OF BONELLI’S EAGLE.
(The nest ts tn the small cave, half-way between the figure on the sky-line and the cavern below.)

Arrived at the crag, we once again sallied the Eagle from her nest,
after which I was bound with ropes and lowered over. In order to

guard against the entirely imaginary risk of a 2 in. rope cutting

Nest and Eggs 335

or fraying during such a short descent a point was selected
whence the rope got a clear run and as a result | went through
the unnecessary discomfort of swinging clear of the cliff, for which
there was no earthly reason. When about 25 ft. down I saw the
cavern to my left which I eventually reached. As I came opposite
to it, | saw to my intense joy a big nest of sticks and fresh green
ilex boughs about 6 ft. from the entrance. Having secured my
footing, I sang out for more rope and scrambled into the cavern.
There, in front of me, lying in a basin-like depression amid
the green ilex leaves, were two beautiful Bonelli’s eggs! What
my feelings were at this moment can only be justly appreciated
by the unrepentant birdsnester. The cavern was but little more
than a hole in the face of the crag, measuring about 5 ft. in
height and some 4 ft. in breadth. The floor was of earth and
sand and sloped upwards, the cavern getting much smaller at its
far end.

The eggs were white, very faintly clouded with purplish
blotches and with a few rufous markings, the largest measuring
2°75 in. by 2°05 in. Having examined my prize thoroughly, |
returned to the top of the cliff to get my egg-boxes and other
appliances. I was wildly excited at my good fortune, which
naturally enough had driven all ideas of any danger of the climb
out of my head. Also, the return journey had been so simple
that I had forgotten the blundering descent. Not so my comrades
however, who, one and all as inexperienced as myself in cliff-work
and none of them climbers, viewed my conduct as reckless and
absurd. Unaware of this opinion and bursting with enthusiasm,
I described briefly the glories I had seen and turning to the
third member of my party said, “Now! I'll lower you down and
you shall see an Eagle’s nest for yourself.” The man appealed to
thus suffered from a severe impediment in his speech. Looking
at me hard and with compressed lips, he ejaculated, evidently from

336 Bonelli’s Eagle

the very bottom of his heart, ‘“ No! I’m b-b-b-dZs¢ if you do!”
Fergusson’s reply was equally emphatic although somewhat more
curt. Baffled in my efforts to share my joy with others, I again
descended to the nest and since it was practically impossible to
make much of a sketch of the interior of the cavern, I crept in as
far as | could and made a water-colour drawing of what the Eagle
saw when engaged in her duties of incubation. Indifferent as is
this sketch it recalls every incident of that morning’s work, now
over thirty years ago. Below the cavern the cliff fell vertically
for some 60 ft., to a slope covered with dense scrub, at the foot
of which ran a stream in a sandy water-course. Across the valley
lay a low range of hills at the time brilliant with yellow genista.
Far beyond, the purple masses and jagged outline of the main
sierra completed the picture. A small pen-and-ink copy of this
sketch will be found at the end of the chapter on Eagle Owls.

Exactly eighteen years later, in 1895, I once again visited this
cliff, this time in quest of Eagle Owls and with my small hand-
camera photographed the same view that I had previously sketched.
A subsequent comparison of sketch and photograph at any rate
justified my care with my pencil and recalled to me the cruel
criticism once passed on my artistic efforts, namely that at any
rate my sketches were very “Xe the places !

The general appearance of the adult Bonelli is dark brown
above and very white below. Between the shoulders is a con-
spicuous white patch which makes it easy to identify the species
at a considerable distance. The breast is streaked with dark
brown but this does not prevent the general white appearance of
the bird when viewed from below.

The young are entirely different, the throat, breast and under-
parts being of a warm rufous tint, and there is no white patch
between the shoulders, at any rate for over a year as I can
testify from having reared young Bonellis. The difference between

Structure and Plumage 337
the two plumages is consequently most marked. In the second
year the breast becomes lighter and large dark streaks appear.

The iris also grows paler—a dull umber brown. The adult

plumage is certainly not assumed until the third year but I have
indisputable ocular proof that the birds sometimes pair and breed
when still wearing the immature plumage, at any rate the females
do so.

As regards their structure, few Eagles, if indeed any, are so
powerful for their size as is Bonelli’s. Their massive legs and feet
and abnormally large claws are seemingly out of all proportion
to the rest of their body. I have a foot of a female Bonelli
which might easily be taken as belonging to a Golden Eagle, a
bird nearly double the size and weight.

When they fly off the nest they make a rapid dive, quickly
followed by a sharp upward curve which makes it no easy matter
to shoot them. We had practical proof of this more than once in
the case of a female belonging to the nest of 1877, much to the
perplexity of those concerned, both excellent shots. Eventually
the murder was perpetrated and I have her now stuffed in my
collection. She has a very white breast, finely streaked with
brown. All the males which [| have watched enter or leave a
nest have been similar in plumage, but not all the female birds, as
already mentioned.

I am happy to be able to record that I have the life of only one
Bonelli's Eagle on my conscience and this in spite of the many
nests I have visited and the innumerable opportunities when |
havé had them within close range.

The next year the bereaved male found another mate and they
nested in a low cliff, not 30 ft. high, on a shelf of rock less than
6 ft. from the summit, which it was possible to walk into. ‘This
nest was in the same ravine as the previous year but on the opposite

side of it, the picture on p. 334 of the crag used in 1877 being in fact
22

338 Bonelli’s Eagle

photographed from the site occupied in 1878. Owing to the
situation of this nest, which had an overhanging rock as well as
a gnarled wild olive tree immediately above it, I was able more
than once to approach unseen and to watch the female sitting on
her eggs about 8 or g ft. from me. On such occasions she would
soon detect my presence, turning her head round and glancing
upwards before dashing off.

In 1879 this pair of Eagles moved to a third site in an adjacent
valley about 500 yards from the first nest. This nest was placed
on a ledge open to the sky only 15 ft. from the top of a crag and
about 20 ft. from the base. The ledge sloped downwards and it
was a marvel why the nest did not slide off. To reach it was
simple enough, since it was possible to climb to the point where
the ledge began, whence it was necessary to sidle along for some
8 or ro ft. A sketch of this nest will be found at the end of the
chapter on Cliff climbing on p. 90. There was no handhold and
the ledge was smooth and slippery and without herbage, points
which no doubt had been duly noted by the Eagles. Close below
the nest was a cavern in which I secreted myself on several
occasions in order to watch the old birds. Sometimes I was given
notice of their approach by the shadow cast as one of them sailed
round overhead and by cautiously peeping through a crevice
I could see the Eagle as it alighted on the edge of the nest and
walked in. It was an ideal spot whence to observe the movements
and plumage of these beautiful birds.

Seven years later, in 1886, on my way out on a birdsnesting
expedition to the Levant, I was at Gibraltar for a few days and rode
out to my old haunts. I found the Eagles still in occupation of
this site. Unfortunately they subsequently developed a taste for
the fowls belonging to a goatherd who lived hard by and he in
revenge climbed to the top of the crag and dropped stones on their
eggs, a simple matter enough in the circumstances. In consequence,

Favourite Nesting Places 339

they abandoned this site. It speaks for the solid construction of the
nests of these Eagles that this same nest is still in existence. |
have seen it from time to time during the last twenty years and
only recently in 1908 had a look at it, when it was still intact but
overgrown with green herbage.

The great majority of the nests of Bonelli’s Eagle which I have
visited have been placed on an open ledge very near the top of
the cliff. So far as I have seen, this seems to be their favourite
situation and it is the same whether the cliff is only 50 ft. high
or 500 ft. In most cases there has been some stunted, wind-twisted
tree, usually a wild olive, growing immediately above the nest
affording a certain amount of shelter both from the weather and
from observation. Two eggs is their full complement but it is
by no means unusual to find a nest with only one. I have done
so myself on five occasions, when there was no question of a
possible second egg being laid. As a rule, the eggs are but little
marked, some being almost white, but I have twice found single
eggs, with fine rufous markings.

The favourite food of Bonelli's Eagle would seem to be rabbits,
remains of which I have constantly found in their nests. They are
also much addicted to Partridges and are in consequence known to the
folk in the sierras as fevdicera or the ‘ Partridge hunter,” to give
a rough equivalent. As already mentioned, they have a great
liking for the domestic fowl and owing to this and their alleged
depredations on the very young kids they are much disliked by
the peasants. As regards fowls, in nearly every instance where
I have heard of so-called Golden Eagles taking them it has turned
out to be Bonelli's Eagle who was to blame.

Within a few miles of where I pass the winter months in
southern Spain there is a fine cliff about 200 feet high on
which is a ledge that has served as a nesting-place for Bonelli’s
Eagles off and on for many years. Originally a Golden Eagles’

340 Bonelli’s Eagle

site, when these birds were forced to move elsewhere it was
taken possession of by a pair of Bonelliis Eagles. In the years
when they elected to occupy an alternative site some Ravens used
it. In 1894 one of the old birds was shot and its mate forsook
the locality. The following year some Griffon Vultures seized on
the old nest. The big female with outspread wings now in the
case of Vultures at the British Museum of Natural History was
shot from off this nest. In 1905 I once again found myself near
the place and from a distance saw a large dark-coloured Eagle leave
the nest. It is a good example of the uncertainties attending bird-
identification, a task so lightly assumed by many, that in spite of
the fact that I have seen many Bonelli’s Eagles as well as Golden
I made the mistake of imagining the bird I had seen to be a Golden
Eagle. I was alone at the time and the nest required ropes to
reach it and some days elapsed before I was able to arrange for
a party to assist me. The second time I visited the cliff, to my
great surprise, in place of the dark Eagle I had seen before a
white-breasted bird flew off the nest, without doubt a Bonelli’s
Eagle. It was evidently a case for investigation, so concealing
myself in the scrub at the foot of the cliff I waited and watched.
Before long an Eagle, evidently the female, from its size, returned
and entered the nest. Very soon afterwards | saw a second Eagle
flying straight towards me which with my glass I made out to
be an adult Bonelli with white underparts. Onward it came and
when it was less than 50 yards from the cliff its mate dashed
off the nest and flew off in the direction the other had come from.
The two birds passed one another like a flash, in mid-air, at a
point less than 100 ft. above me and about 30 yards to my front.
I thus had an unrivalled chance of comparing them and noted that
the outgoing bird was the larger female in immature plumage,
whereas the incoming bird was the smaller male in the white adult
dress I have already described. | submit that it would be impossible

Breeding in Immature Plumage 341

to obtain more conclusive evidence of these birds breeding before
they have acquired the well-known adult plumage.

NEST OF BONELLI’S EAGLE.

The male went straight to the nest and took up the duty of
incubation without a moment's delay, the female winging her way
over to the hills to my front and disappearing from view. Having

342 Bonelli's Eagle

got my party together we proceeded to the top of the cliff, whence
it was but a short drop to the nest, easy enough with a rope.
This nest was a big structure of sticks, probably the remains of
the Golden Eagles’ tenancy supplemented by the Ravens’ improve-
ments, and was lined with freshly-cut branches from the palmetto
bushes and some cork-tree boughs.

It contained but a single egg of the usual rounded shape of
Eagle's eggs, well coloured with rufous markings at the larger
end. For a moment I hesitated whether I should take the egg
or leave it until a second was laid. Eventually, I decided to take
it and replaced it with a tame goose’s egg which I had with me
in view of such emergencies.

I should mention here that it is a good plan always to carry
a couple of fowl’s eggs when on birdsnesting expeditions so that in
the event of it being necessary to revisit a nest, they may be left
in it in place of those abstracted, by which means the old_ bird
may be induced to continue sitting. For such a purpose, I usually
carry large fowl’s eggs but on this occasion chanced to have a
goose’s, which had been laid by a tame goose which I used as
a call-bird when driving Wild Geese during the winter months.
It was somewhat larger than Bonelli’s egg and of course of a
totally different shape, since Geese, both wild and domesticated,
lay somewhat elongated eggs pointed at both ends, whereas Eagles
lay rounded eggs, with one end larger than the other.

Upon blowing the Eagle’s egg I found it to be considerably
incubated, a proof that there was no chance of a second egg being
laid. It seemed rather unkind to the Eagles to leave them thus
engaged in the fruitless task of endeavouring to hatch off a tame
goose’s egg, but as I did not blow the Eagle's until | had returned
to our horses, some hundreds of feet below the nest, I was
physically incapable of returning to it to remove the goose'’s egg.

It chanced that some weeks later | rode past the cliff with

The Photographer and the Tame Goose’s Egg 343

some friends and we saw the white-breasted female leave it. We
climbed to the summit and looked over. There, sure enough,
only 15 ft. below us lay the pointed goose’s egg, but, as I had
clearly foreseen, no second Eagle’s egg had been iaid. We had no
rope with us, else I should have descended and put an end to the
deception.

As events turned out, this resulted in an unforeseen but
supremely ludicrous episode. A few days after the last visit to
Bonelli’s crag, on our return from a long expedition one evening,
I was informed that two Englishmen had arrived and had installed
themselves in the kitchen of a cottage adjoining my own which
I had temporarily hired since I had more people staying with me
than my small house could hold. On enquiry | found them to
be a professional bird photographer and his assistant out on tour
in quest of “copy,” who by some curious chance had come to
stop at the identical spot where I have lived for so many years
and which, it should be mentioned, is many hours from the nearest
civilization. They assured me they were not collectors, in fact
they did not take nests ‘‘only photographed them.” During their
stay they made various expeditions in the neighbourhood and then
disappeared as suddenly as they had come, as also by the way
did sundry Neophrons’ and other eggs about the same time.

This occurred in the month of April. In the following March
I was as usual staying in the same place and had forgotten all
about the incident when one day I received a copy of Country
Life sent me by one of the party who had lowered me to the
Bonelli’s nest the previous year and had seen me place the goose’s
egg in it. In this number, to my intense amusement, as well as to
that of all who were concerned in the expedition, there was a most
graphic account of the identical nest of Bonelli’s Eagle we had
robbed, describing how my photographing friend had obtained the

egg from it! With the set purpose, apparently, to place on record

344 Bonelli’s Eagle

for all time his ignorance of Eagles and their eggs, the unfortunate
writer went into the most minute details as to how the egg he had
so gallantly obtained was ‘‘white and somewhat pointed at both
ends”; in fact an unmistakable tame goose’s egg! How painfully

EGG OF BONELLI’S EAGLE. (Size 2°7 in. X 2 in.)

unlike a Bonelli’s egg is this veracious description can be seen

by the accompanying photograph which I took of the real egg

at about 18 in. distance when I was lowered to the nest.
Unfortunately, the goose-egger was by his own account not

also a cliff-climber, nor was he equipped with a hand-camera or

Delight of the Carboneros 345

other suitable apparatus for use in what was really a rather
awkward situation for camera work. Thus it came about that
Country Life lost a unique opportunity of a photograph of an
“ Eagle’s” egg which, had it appeared, I should have hoped to
obtain permission to reproduce here.

Some time after this episode, I met some carboneros (charcoal
burners), old acquaintances of mine, who lived near the cliff and
had seen me descend to the nest and photograph it. They had
taken a keen interest in the transposition of the goose’s for the
Eagle's egy and had, from time to time, looked over the cliff to
see if a gosling had hatched out. When therefore “a long
Englishman,” as they described the photographer, one day
appeared on the scene and was at immense trouble to get the
much-coveted egg “within his grasp” as he expressed it, they
were enormously amused. The sense of humour which happily
is so general among these poor fellows, who live cruelly hard
lives with nothing to enliven them, found full scope in narrating
the story. Nor do I escape altogether, for I am credited with
risking my neck in order to put tame goose’s eggs into Eagles’
nests with the express purpose of fooling those who attempt to
follow in my footsteps. The final verdict being that £7 Covone/
was admittedly /oco, mad, but that he at least knew what he
wanted, whereas the luckless photographer was obviously /ov/o,
imbecile, for he did not know what he was doing. I some-
times wonder in whose collection this most remarkable “ prize”
now finds a place!

It will be noted that most of the nesting-places of Bonelli’s
Eagle I have thus described at length were, comparatively speaking,
very easy to reach. It is by no means always so, even in the most
unfrequented and uninhabited districts. Thus, | know of a nest in
the Serrania of Ronda close beneath a sloping terrace on the side of

a very precipitous mountain. From this terrace there is a sheer

346 Bonelli’s Eagle

drop of several hundred feet to a great talus below. Above the
terrace are a series of other precipices, whence have fallen masses
of fractured limestone, fragments of which are perched on the
terrace or wedged amid the rocks immediately above it.

On the day previous to visiting this spot we had seen a Bonelli's
Eagle enter the cliff below some wild olive trees which grew close
to the edge. From our position on the talus some 600 ft. below it
was most difficult to be certain of the precise point. After a wide
detour and a long scramble up steep slopes, round rocky bluffs and
once right through a big fissure in a cliff, we gained a point above
the terrace whence a sort of natural staircase led down to our cliff.
Here we found a rope very useful as a life-line. We were now only
50 ft. from the olive trees at the edge of the cliff and it was absolutely
necessary to be certain of the precise spot immediately above the
nest before attempting to go over the cliff, for it was no place for
experimental work, Fortunately | had with me a well-drilled party,
so four of us proceeded as close to the edge as possible, separated
from one another by 20 ft. intervals. We were thus in a position
to mark with reasonable accuracy the exact spot the Eagle left
when put off her nest. My own billet was in an olive tree which
overhung the cliff and to reach it meant a cautious scramble down
the sloping talus. To add to our discomfort it was blowing hard
and the violent gusts of wind compelled me to hold on as if
aloft at sea. Bad as was my situation, I feel sure that some of
the others were worse.

When all was ready, some loose rocks were toppled over the
edge, which with a pistol-shot caused the Eagle to dash out of
the cliff. Thanks to our careful arrangements we were able to
locate the point exactly and no time was lost in making the neces-
sary preparations for lowering. The nest was designated for my
companion, Admiral Farquhar, and I must confess to feeling some

qualms as I saw him disappearing over the brow. Just at the

A Dangerous Cliff 347

re)

moment some furious rain-squalls were passing and the drifting
clouds and vapour half-obscured the view of the rocky valley and
winding stream which lay far away, 800 or more feet below us, and
made the descent look doubly formidable. The lowering party
were perched amid the rocks 30 ft. above me and I was in a
life-line at the extreme edge, but such was the nature of the cliff
that I could see nothing immediately below me and I remained
crouched down, anxiously feeling the rope as it passed through
my hands and waiting for the signal whistle from below. The
wind whistled and roared around the edge of the cliff and it seemed
impossible to hear anything. Very soon to my great relief, | heard
the whistle, ‘* Haul up,” and soon we had our climber back safe
among us.

One of those untoward affairs now occurred which illustrate
the wide difference between rope-work among cliffs well-known
to the climbers and the reverse. I called attention to this when
discussing climbing in general in an earlier part of this book.
My comrade having been hauled up to the lowering party, I was
in the act of following him up, when a great mass of seemingly
solid rock upon which I put my weight suddenly came away in my
hand and bounding past me down the slope, disappeared over the
cliff at the point where we had both been climbing and we heard it
crashing and splintering as it struck the rocks hundreds of feet below.
So much for working among disintegrated limestone rocks! Nor
is it to be wondered at. The excessive rain-fall in this region
during the winter months, the dense clouds which so constantly
enshroud the mountain tops, the snow and hard frosts of every
successive winter and the powerful rays of the Andalucian summer
sun, all combine to break up the hardest formations. Some of the
huge talus of sharply broken stone which are met with at com-
paratively low altitudes in this region bear eloquent testimony to

the irresistible forces of Nature.

348 Bonelli’s Eagle

In the case in point I was luckily still in my bowline or
certainly would not be writing this, but such incidents are most
disquieting and do not add to one’s sense of security. I mentally
vowed to be more careful in future. Oddly enough, others did the
same, for two years later when engaged on this book I chanced
to ask Admiral Farquhar what, in his opinion, was the nastiest
place he had ever been in when eagle-nesting. He at once replied
“That Bonelli’s nest we took together,” adding that, had he not
been so desperately anxious to take a Bonelli’s egg with his own
hands, he would not have gone over the cliff on that day. Curiously
enough, neither he nor I had ever discussed the affair in the
intervening time, possibly the most eloquent proof that we did not
altogether enjoy ourselves. But most assuredly it requires a man
to be possessed of the true birdsnesting spirit, the spirit that dis-
counts all dangers where a nest must be got, to induce him to go
over a cliff as did my old comrade on this occasion. However he
got the egg!

I revisited this district but not this same nesting-place in the
spring of 1908, as I was anxious to get a photograph of a Bonelli’s
nest with two eggs in it. The nest I selected for my attempt was
only about 30 ft. from the summit of an overhanging cliff and was
placed on a very small ledge beyond which the big nest protruded
considerably. Below the nest the cliff inclined inwards so that it was
a clear drop to the ground far away below. There was no foothold
or support amid the rocks anywhere near the nest, and as soon as
I was lowered to it | realized that I had my work cut out for me.
Fortunately, just above the nest a very sturdy old olive tree was
growing out of a cleft in the rocks, the nest depending for its support
upon some of the lower branches of a second tree which curving
downwards served to retain it in its somewhat precarious position
on the shelving ledge. A friendly branch of the first olive tree ex-
tended above the nest and but 5 ft. from it, and | saw that if

An Improvised Studio 349

only I could use this branch as a ‘‘stand,” I might be able to hold
the camera on it steady enough to get a 30-second exposure. |
found however that I needed both hands to keep me from swinging
off the bough and even then my weight caused it to bend slightly,
quite enough anyway to spoil a photograph. To depend on the
rope alone as my support was out of the question, for there is a
lot of vibration in 30 ft. of 14 in. rope.

Looking around, I espied only a couple of feet overhead a
still stouter bough and_ realized that herein lay my opportunity.
So, carefully overhauling the end of my rope, I made it fast to
this branch so that I remained suspended just below it by the
small of my back. By good luck I was now able to jamb one
foot into a cranny and thus to steady myself completely. I
now laid the camera on the lower bough in front of me and
found to my joy that it was to all intents and purposes steady.

Determined not to lose such an opportunity, I took a series
of photographs with both cameras. One set, alas! owing to the
same defective films which had served me so cruelly in the case
of a Bearded Vulture’s nest only the day before were spoilt. Of
the others in three cases the camera slipped and in some the
olive branches vibrated in the wind. Owing to my constrained
position and the fact that the eggs were below me I could not
look into the finder when photographing and hence lost one or
two exposures owing to the eggs being on the edge of the film.
Curious to say, my greatest trouble was to find a spot where I
could deposit my watch in order to time the exposures. Eventually
I managed to suspend it to a twig. I made a vow there and then
never again to attempt photography in awkward places unless
provided with a wrist watch. It all sounds very trivial, but there
are assuredly troubles enough for the unfortunate climber en-
deavouring at one and the same time to retain his balance and
to manipulate a folding-camera without any such extra annoyances.

50 Bonelli’s Eagle

I confess to feeling a sort of sardonic pleasure when in this

‘precarious and not at all permanent” position, in the words

Sn = x“
wa. 8 ANG oe ~

NEST OF BONELLI’S EAGLE.

(Zaken with the Camera resting on a bough 5 ft. from the eggs, the photographer being suspended

trom a branch just above.)

of Mr. Chucks, at the thought how utterly subversive of all

orthodox photography, with its accompanying rigid tripods and

A Young Savage 301

stands, was my weather-worn olive tree and the light rope where-
with I was lashed thereto.

Nestling Bonelli’s Eagles go through the same phases of change
reat

of plumage as do other eagles; from their earliest days the g

YOUNG BONELLI’S EAGLE IN NEST SHOWING FIGHT.

size and power of their feet to which I have already called atten-
tion are very noticeable. In 1907 | was lowered into a_ nest
containing one youl

1g bird, fully fledged. As I landed in the

352 Bonelli’s Eagle

nest, it threw itself into a splendid attitude of defiance and defence
as if challenging me to come on.

I had some trouble in photographing this young savage, as
when the camera was brought near it, it struck out furiously with
its talons and it was wonderful to see what a reach it possessed
when it had a mind to inflict an injury. Curiously enough, by its
side was the body of a freshly-killed cock Blackbird, plucked
almost completely clean of feathers, the bright yellow bill and a
few small feathers around the base of it alone serving to indicate
what it was. A blackbird would appear to be a very small quarry
for such a fine and powerful bird as Bonelli to capture. But the
reason was simple enough; the hillsides, immediately below the
nest and for miles around are densely overgrown with lentiscus,
with stunted cork and olive trees scattered at intervals, amid which
blackbirds are abundant. No doubt as the Eagles skim over the
undulating ground in quest of rabbits or Partridges, innumerable
opportunities occur for grabbing a thoughtless Blackbird, which,
after the manner of their kind, fly chattering from one clump to
another.

Having decided to take the young Eagle, I attempted to pick
it up, but it threw itself on its back and was so pugnacious that
I forwent the pleasure of its company during my ascent. Having
left it to recover its feet, by means of a few feints, I induced it
to back towards the edge of the nest, when a push with my
foot sent it over into space and it descended with extended wings,
parachute fashion, dropping into a big cistus bush a hundred feet
below, whence | subsequently retrieved it. This is the bird |
have alive at my home in England and a very interesting one it
is to study. Its favourite food is rabbits or rats, but judging
from its fierce demeanour when cats come near its aviary, I
imagine they would have a bad time of it, if they ventured within
its grasp. Grasp is indeed the word, for of all the raptorial birds

Well-adapted for Falconry 353

I have, from time to time, trained to sit on my fist, none has
shown anything like the power of Bonelli, both to strike violently
and having struck, to maintain an unyielding clutch of the object
held for an indefinite time. The thickest buck-skin falconer’s
glove is of little protection when this Eagle is aggressively in-
clined. I would much like to enter it to fly at hares, rabbits
and Partridges and feel well-assured I could succeed in training
it in a very few weeks, but the certainty that in England it
would be shot on the very first occasion it got away from me
prevents my doing so. A trait in its character, which argues
well for its tractability, is its absence of sulking. Most Eagles
possess this defect to a marked degree, some almost incurably
so. When it was six months old, I took it in hand and although
at first it gave splendid exhibitions of sulks—splendid so far as
appearance went, as with drooping wings and every feather ex-
panded and lowered head it endeavoured to shut itself off from me
and my importunities; but it realized quickly the inutility of such
conduct. In a very short time it would not only sit on my fist
but fly to it for food. To a falconer it is easy to see that this
fine species is eminently adapted, by structure, habits and tempera-
ment for the successful prosecution of the noble art. Now, after
eighteen months it will fly to my fist fearlessly. But it resents
fiercely any interference with its food and will make a furious dash
at me if in any way annoyed. Hence, as a precautionary measure,
as with the Eagle Owls, I usually wear a fencing mask when at
work in the cage.

As may be easily imagined, the flight of Bonelli’s Eagle is as
buoyant and quick as it is powerful. I have watched them for
many years on numerous occasions circling high above some cliff
where they were nesting or hunting over some suitable tract of
country, and the ease and grace of their movements at such
times are suggestive of the flight of a Falcon. At times they

354 Bonelli’s Eagle

will ascend to a great height and remain apparently motionless,
literally hanging in the air. In their attack and swoop they are
lightning-like. I can recall how in the winter of 1902 I was
shooting Partridges on an alluvial plain near the town of El Kasr
El Kebir in Morocco. Some birds rose rather wild and I sent
away one hard-hit. I had hardly shouted to my companion ‘‘ Mark
that bird ’ when a Bonelli’'s Eagle appeared on the scene with a
tremendous swoop and clutching the wounded Partridge, without
an instant’s check in its speed, swept with it onwards and upwards
and vanished out of sight. It was an interesting spectacle for any
student of bird-life and one of peculiar fascination to a falconer.,

*‘(cuury]) Srpavsileys vpwnb py

‘AIDVa NAGTIOO

)

EBD)

CHAPTER VI.
THE GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaétus).

Popular ideas of Golden Eagles—Absurd misrepresentations—Preference for
limestone country — Repugnance to Griffon Vultures—Alternative nesting
sites—Locating nests—The interest of personal observations—The use
of paid assistants—A Spanish argument—Partiality to cliffs—But not
necessarily big ones—Remote spots their chief safeguard—My first Golden
Eagle’s nest—An easy descent—A useless camera—A seven years record—
An interesting descent and successful photograph—Other descents and photo-
graphs—Behaviour of Griffons—The task of locating Golden Eagles’ nests
—Necessity for careful observation—Results of skilful reconnaissance—A
joyful sight for a naturalist—Watching Golden Eagles in their haunts—
A glorious spectacle.

HE glamour about the name Eagle,
especially Golden Eagle, makes it
hard for an ornithologist to avoid
offending readers who probably
have exaggerated ideas as to
Eagles’ size, valour, ferocity and
general habits. From the earliest
days classic writers have idealized
the bird and attributed to it so
many marvellous qualities that a
mere narration of a field-naturalist’s
everyday experiences among these
splendid birds fall far short of the

symbolic bird immemoria]]yselected
by warlike nations as the insignia
for their standards.

The Golden Eagle

ies)
On
[ony

Thus the “king of birds,” which we have every reason to
believe is one of those which pair for life and which is usually
seen hunting in company with its mate, (save indeed in the
nesting season or on occasions when a single bird may go in
quest of food), has been portrayed as combining in large parties
to attack less powerful birds. Landseer’s famous picture of
“Eagles attacking Swans” is a monumental work of mischievous
misrepresentation, since it not only represents an impossible gather-
ing of Eagles but attributes to them methods of attack which no
Eagle ever adopted, since Eagles strike or pounce on their quarry
and do not engage in vulgar brawls either by land or on the water,

Of less importance, but even more gratuitously misleading, are
sundry modern journalistic efforts to present the Eagle as a sort
of gryphon. I have in my mind's eye a picture of ‘ Attacked
by Eagles” in which a man is depicted surrounded by a_ bevy
of gigantic birds as large as ostriches with a span of wing of 12 feet
or more. The veracious account lays the scene in a cocknified
health resort in southern France, where Eagles are almost as
rare as they are at Brighton.

The Golden Eagles who are my friends, (save indeed on the
rare occasions when I take eggs from their nests) are quite another
bird, averaging about 10 to 12 lbs. in weight and with a span of
wing of rather over 6 feet. Those who see my sketches and
photographs of the various homes of the Golden Eagle I have
from time to time visited ask me ‘What do you do when you
are attacked?” Please note the formula:—It is not, Do they
ever attack you? Here again I must plead to being equally
unfortunate, for not only do my Golden Eagles never hunt in
bands like wolves or adopt casual babies, but despite the scores
of times I have descended by means of ropes or escaladed big
cliffs in quest of Eagles’ nests, I have never had the honour of
being attacked by the infuriated parents.

Dislike to Griffon Vultures 257

1 may mention here that although I have climbed to so
many nests I have never yet pulled a trigger at a Golden Eagle.
Naturally enough I have had them close to me any number of
times.

In southern Spain they are curiously local, so much so that
writing in 1874 Colonel Irby said that he had never seen one.
Some years later I found them nesting sparsely in the great sand-
stone cliffs of western Andalucia and showed Colonel Irby two sites,
but it was not until I pushed my expeditions into the limestone
mountains which form the western and southern spurs of the
Sierra Nevada that I made close acquaintance with them. On two
occasions only have I seen them in Morocco and I know of a nest
on that side of the Straits.

It is difficult to account for the marked preference of the Golden
Eagle for the limestone country beyond the fact that they seem
to have a supreme dislike for Griffon Vultures and, so far as my
personal observations go, never tolerate them near their nests.
Since all the larger cliffs in the sandstone country are tenanted
by Griffons, this may be one of the reasons. Again, owing to the
normal geological formations of the limestone country, there are
usually fewer caverns and fissures in any one cliff than amid the
sandstone, and hence the Griffons nesting there are, as a rule, more
generally distributed since they have not the local facilities for
living in big colonies which exist in some of the sandstone crags.
For although Golden Eagles most undoubtedly do drive away any
odd pairs of Griffons which may attempt to occupy their own
particular cliff, | do not think they would attempt to oust a whole
colony. There is however yet another possible reason for the
Golden Eagles restricting themselves mainly to the limestone
country. The nearly allied species, the White-shouldered Eagle,
which frequents the wooded hillsides and valleys of the lower
sandstone country, as also do two other tree-nesting Eagles, are

358 The Golden Eagle

incessantly on the look out for food and their persistent harrying
of these districts may possibly not leave sufficient game to make
it worth while for the Golden Eagles to establish hunting quarters
in the same region. Rabbits and Partridges are Golden Eagles’
favourite food and in the sierra the only serious competitors they
meet with for this class of prey is the smaller Bonelli’s Eagle and,
to a less extent, Eagle Owls, who also dearly love a rabbit.

The Golden Eagles are very partial to young kids and very
small lambs and at the period of the year when these are about the
herdsmen keep a sharp eye on the movements of the Eagles.
When, as occasionally happens, a nest is on an open ledge visible
from the top of a cliff, the goat-herds not seldom drop pieces of

rock into them so as to smash the eges and drive the Eagles to

gs
some other locality. In this case the Eagles do not entirely leave
the district but resort to another site not far off.

This brings me to a very interesting trait in the habits of the
Golden Eagle, well known to most field naturalists, found in many
other Eagles and raptorial birds, but in none so marked as in Golden
Eagles.

Every pair of Eagles, whose habits | have had an opportunity
of watching over a period of a few years, would seem to have
usually at least two alternative sites for their nests, some have
three and I know of one with four sites. In fact I only know of
one pair out of many, which habitually resort to one place and one
only. The reason for this is however apparent for owing to its
situation it has never been disturbed. This nest is in a small
cavern on the face of an absolute wall of limestone rock some 800
ft. high, at about 400 feet from the summit. Above the cliff is a
talus of loose stone at an angle of 45° or so, above which again rise
other precipices. To reach the nearest point above this nest would
be a long day’s work and to lower a man to the nest would
require at least 500 ft. of 2-inch rope and an equal amount of
lighter stuff would be most desirable as a life-line.

The Fascination of Locating Nests 359

A most interesting and fascinating occupation, to my mind,
is the locating of the nest of all big birds and especially the nest
of the Golden Eagle. I am quite aware that in many instances it
saves time, trouble and expense to hire local men to mark down the
nests of these and other birds, and on emergencies, when time has
pressed, I have not scorned to avail myself of such local knowledge,
but always on the explicit understanding that nobody save myself
was to approach the nest or touch the eggs or young.

But when all is said and done, some of the happiest days of my
life have been those when, possibly after days, weeks or months
and in some instances, years of observation, | have without assist-
ance succeeded in solving the riddle of the wild birds. There is
something to me particularly enthralling in having observed an
Eagle in a certain district flying on a certain line, or hunting a
certain hillside and by degrees, perhaps after repeated failures and
fruitless expeditions, along totally distinct watersheds amid high
mountains separated by valleys a day’s journey across, reducing the
suspected region to one of a few square miles, then, to a single
ravine and lastly, to a solitary crag in the same.

ensures success. More than once have I been taken to be shown

ain, the employment of local talent by no means always

a reputed nest ot an Aguz/a real which has turned out to be
nothing more exciting than that of an Egyptian Vulture or of
a Kestrel and in one case even of a Rock Dove! The Rock Dove
episode, although vexatious, was amusing, as showing the vein of
thought of the Spanish herd who conducted me and who, after
cross-questioning me as to the reasons why I wanted to get
such useless articles as Eagles’ eggs, evidently came to the con-
clusion that I was a harmless lunatic. I was naturally furious at
being let in for a nasty climb up a cliff to a cavern to interview a
pigeon and explained my feelings with some decision. He only
rejoined :-—‘** You said you wanted to climb a cliff and get a nest

360 The Golden Eagle

with two white eggs which were of no use to anybody, there you
have the eggs, take your gun and shoot the birds, they are capital
food, worth more than a

Eagle.”

But that was many many years ago and before I had learned
the lesson, never to be induced to climb to a nest unless I had
previously seen the birds and, from watching their movements, had
made myself acquainted with their secrets. I dedicate this simple
Spanish tale to these ‘naturalists’ who fondly imagine that by
paying natives to find them nests and bring them eggs they have
mastered the whole art of birdsnesting.

In Spain the Golden Eagle is essentially a rock-nesting bird.
Out of a large number of nests I have visited I have never yet
come across one in a tree, whereas in Scotland a certain number of
the few Eagles which still survive habitually select trees for their nests.

Doubtless one of the reasons why Eagles usually resort to
places difficult of access is found in the centuries of persecution
they have undergone from mankind, typified in resentful goatherds
or peasants whose flocks or poultry have suffered from Eagles’
depredations. But nothing could be wider of the mark than the
popular belief that these grand birds invariably nest in the loftiest
and most inaccessible cliffs. On the contrary they seem, as a rule,
infinitely to prefer some quiet valley where passers-by are few
and far between, and where some small crag presents a_ peculiar
difficulty to the would-be climber, to a bold precipice, visible
from afar, known to all the countryside and popularly supposed
to be unclimbable. Of course, some Eagle’s nests are placed in
stupendous cliffs, but, as a rule, provided an adequate supply of
ropes can be taken to such a spot, they are much easier and
safer to descend than are far smaller crags, possibly only 50 to
100 ft. high, which by reason either of steep and crumbling
slopes above or of overhanging rocks are both difficult and
dangerous.

My First Nest 361

I refrain from the word impossible, and for the good reason
that, given sufficient ropes and, above all, skill in their use, and
always provided that the topographical conditions admit of the
requisite gear being transported to the spot, there are very
few nests which can be pronounced impossible to reach. Such,
at least, are my experiences. Whether successive generations of
Eagles have learned by bitter experience the fallacy of trusting
to height and to height alone as a safeguard for their nests, it
is impossible to say, but every year I live and every fresh nesting
place I visit confirms me in the belief that in the selection of
sites for their nests wild birds are above all else concerned to
escape observation.

The first time I ever had the joy and gratification to see
a Golden Eagle’s nest containing eggs came to me with but
little effort. I was exploring a big limestone hill of the type so
frequently seen amid the lower spurs of the Sierra Nevada and
sighted a pair of Golden Eagles high overhead, which shortly
disappeared round the shoulder of the mountain. Following them
up, we came upon a big range of cliffs about 4oo ft. in height
which ran parallel to a steep watercourse.

Above this range was an extensive rocky terrace with a second
series of cliffs above, surmounted by yet another terrace and a
mass of pinnacle crags. After a time we saw one of the Eagles
enter the lower range of cliffs, but from our position it was
impossible to be certain of the exact spot. As it was late in
the day we returned to our house, and the following morning
resumed our search. Commencing operations on the top of the
cliff which we reckoned most probably contained the Eagle's nest,
more by good luck than by good management I hit off the spot
from above, for, on firing a shot, a Golden Eagle dashed out of
the cliff almost exactly below the place where I stood. The
cliff was perfectly sound limestone, much weathered, and quite

362 The Golden Eagle

vertical, a small fissure a few feet deep ran down from the
summit hard by where I was, and it was not difficult to guess
that the nest was probably placed in this, at some point below,
where there was a ledge. I had with me just 50 ft. of 2-inch
rope and with this I was lowered some 35 ft., enough to see that
not far below me there was a projection which overhung the face
of the cliff lower down. Fortunately, we had also with us 180 ft.
of 14-inch Alpine rope and so, ascending, I doubled this and
making a bowline-on-a-bight went down again. When about 50
ft. down, I passed on one side of the projection and sighted the
nest immediately below it, placed in a small recess, a continuation
of the fissure above. Ten feet lower, | got some good handhold
which enabled me to work my way upwards from below the
projection and reach the nest, which contained two splendidly-
coloured eggs. The nest measured about 3 ft. across and was
lined with fresh ilex and palmetto leaves. I had with me my
small fixed focus camera (it was in the early days of hand-camera
work) which could be used, at a pinch, at 7 ft. But here I was,
only 3 ft. from the nest, which lay in dark shadow. I steadied
myself by pressing my feet against the cliff and straightening my
knees but it was no good, for by no possibility could I obtain
the necessary focusing distance and, further, a time-exposure was
out of the question, owing to the absence of any possible means
to improvise a stand on which to rest the camera, and all the
time there was the vibration of the rope. Of course I took a
“snap” and equally of course it was a failure. 1 have the picture
still, such as it is, with ghostly ill-focused rocks and its interest
is that it records the absolutely sheer nature of the cliff and shows
the flutings of water action on the portion of the rock behind the
nest. Having hauled myself into the nest, I packed my eggs
and re-ascended. During this time, the old birds, as usual, lay off
at a distance, rarely coming into view. This nest was in one of

A Fine Situation 363

three alternative sites, all on the face of the same big cliff. The

second site was in a very similar position some 200 yards east

VIEW FROM A GOLDEN EAGLE’S NEST.

of the first, whereas the third was on a buttress or big terrace,
a few hundred yards to the west of it. I have re-visited this
cliff several times since and have found the birds sometimes

364 The Golden Eagle

occupying one of these sites and at others a fourth site, which
I failed to discover, owing to lack of time.

Another pair of Golden Eagles occupied a big hill about a day’s
journey from the nest I have just mentioned. I have had an
opportunity to study this pair closely for over seven years and
have succeeded in finding the various alternative sites they have
occupied. The first site, which I will call “A,” was on a
small terrace about 250 ft. from the base of a very precipitous
cliff, and perhaps 150 ft. from the top. The view from this
nest which is situated many hundreds of feet above the general
level of the country below it is very extensive. But, although
to the eye the place is most inaccessible, as a matter of fact
it can be approached from behind through a small natural
embrasure in the rocks which leads right into it. It has for
many years been resorted to by Golden Eagles, and although
the local goatherds have, as they have told me, often destroyed
it, and of late years it has been harried more than once, the
hapless old birds still resort to it at intervals.

Two eggs were taken from this nest, not by me, the first year
I heard of it. The following year the Eagles nested in a low
crag in a small ravine about three miles north of the first nest,
which I shall call site ‘‘ B.”. Here they happily escaped molestation.

The third year, the old birds removed to a low cliff in a ravine
about two and a half miles distant east of “A” and three miles from
‘“B,” which I shall call site “C.” This nest was on a shelving
rock, not 15 ft. from the summit, the ground above was however
extremely steep and the soil loose and it was necessary for those
who handled the rope to exercise great care before they could obtain
a safe foothold amid the steep and slippery rocks. A big rock over-
hung the nest and made it quite inaccessible from directly above.
|] accordingly went over to the right of it, but found it impossible
to work into it from the flank. Finally I went over, some yards to

Records of Alternative Sites 365

the left, and striking a joint in the rock running at an angle of 45

or so slipped along it with my weight on the rope, keeping myself

NEST AND EGGS OF GOLDEN EAGLE.

in to the face of the cliff by handhold. By this means it was easy
to get to the nest, always keeping a strain on the rope, an essential

proviso owing to the absence of any safe foothold. On this occasion

366 The Golden Eagle

I was equipped with a more suitable camera, the Kodak arranged to
focus down from the normal 6 ft. to 18 in. A withered cork tree grew
hard by the nest and, by hanging my watch on a twig in front of
me and pressing the camera against the face of the cliff, I was
luckily able to take several time-exposures of thirty to forty seconds
which gave good results. I subsequently revisited site “ A” of the
previous year and found it to be in the possession of a Griffon
Vulture which had relined the old Eagle’s nest with tufts of grass
and bents, and had laid its single white egg in it.

oo
”

In the fourth year neither Eagle nor Vulture occupied site “A,
although the cliff was held by several pairs of Griffons. The Eagles
this year had returned once again to site ‘B.” This was quite
the smallest place I ever saw tenanted by Golden Eagles and was
almost identical with that at ‘C,” with a steep slope above and
was further actually approachable to within 12 ft. or so from
below, along a narrow shelf. Beyond this further progress was
impossible and the nest had eventually to be reached from above.

The fifth year the Eagles returned to site ‘C,” and laid one
egg which was unfortunately taken; the female then proceeded
to site “A,” and laid a second egg, but this nest being easily

reached was so disturbed that they forsook it. Unluckily they

”

were weak enough to return once again to the same site ‘A
in the sixth year, and access being easy the eggs were eventually
taken. The seventh year they returned to site ‘‘C,” and laid two
egos. Besides these three sites thus used in rotation as described,
I came across a fourth site, where I was told they had at times
nested in former years, but, beyond seeing the Eagles around this
crag, I have no proof that they did.

This habit of Golden Eagles to select a shelf of rock in
comparatively low cliffs is a very curious one. I found the nest
of a third pair in almost exactly a_ similar situation to those
already described as ““B” and “C,” a day’s march south of them.

Nest in a Small Crag 367

A sketch of this nest appears at the beginning of this chapter.
In this case the nest was only a few feet below the crest, the

crag itself being about 100 ft. in height, whilst access to the edge
of the cliff was across a dangerous loose talus of débris fallen from
the immense cliffs above.

3608 The Golden Eagle

The moral pressure exercised by Golden Eagles over their
despised connections, the huge Griffon Vultures, was very apparent
in the case of the nest at site “A.” The first year, when the Eagles
were in occupation, no Griffons were to be seen about the place,
the second year I noticed a pair, the third year one had actually
taken possession of the disused Eagle’s nest and another pair
had established themselves in a big cavern close by, the fifth
year there were four or five nests. The sixth year I first
detected the presence of the Eagles by seeing one suddenly
descend from the zenith and buffet a Griffon that came sailing
past the great cliff where the Eagle’s nest was situated and
which made off with great precipitation. As a matter of curiosity
I fired subsequently several shots to see if any Griffons were
nesting about the cliffs, but none came out. To make sure, I
then climbed up and visited the various nests I knew of and
found all alike untenanted and out of repair. A single pair of
Neophrons were nesting in the big cavern which formerly held
several Griffons’ nests and the female had laid her eggs in one
of the Griffons’ nests of the year before. It would be difficult
to produce clearer testimony of the antipathy of Golden Eagles
to Griffon Vultures.

Possibly some who read this may imagine that it is a simple
matter enough to find the nests of these beautiful birds. Of
course, with good luck many things in life are made easy, but in
few pursuits that I know of are there more chances of disappoint-
ment than in tracking Eagles’ nests.

When once a pair of birds are located and their nesting places
discovered, it appears to be absurdly simple, and so it may be
for the casual visitor who wants to be shown an Eagle's nest,
and who can by this means get a man to take him straight to
the spot. But for the genuine bird watcher, how immense and
uncertain is the task and how overwhelming at times are the

GOLDEN EAGLE.

EGGS OF

NEST AND

Locating Eagles’ Nests 309

unexpected difficulties which present themselves, one after the
other, as if to debar him from accomplishing his object!

The mere fact of watching Eagles enter cliffs, either singly
or in pairs, is a long way from ultimate success in finding their

nests. Owing to their habit of resorting to alternative sites, it not
unfrequently happens that a pair which may be meditating nesting
play around various old nests with aggravating: uncertainty. Even
after they have come to a decision to repair and re-line one of
the nests of former years, they have a way of resorting to some
of the other sites and flying in and out of them in a most deceptive
manner.

The tyro after seeing the birds thus enter a nest is ever anxious
to go to it at once. Such haste is, as a rule, prolific of disappoint-
ment. But even when a nest has been undoubtedly fixed and
the fact that it contains eggs has been reasonably assured, the
final successful approach to it from above is by no means a matter
of course. Often it is the work of a whole day to attain the top
of the cliff above the Eagle’s eyrie and only those who have
frequently gone through this seemingly simple operation and have
experienced the repeated failures which so often attend it can
appreciate the vast difference between seeing a nest from below
a cliff and trying to place oneself exactly above it, possibly many
hours later on. As often as not, the configuration of the crestline
prevents a near approach to the edge and it may be necessary
to make several tentative descents in a bowline to peer over and
endeavour to fix the desired spot; and how very unpleasant this
process is at times! and how much worse it seems to become, the
more you look at it!

But in such a case, as in all wild sport and adventure, the very
difficulties add zest to the enterprize and what unspeakable joy it
is to the unrepentent birdsnester when after a series of awkward
adventures he finds himself at last right in to the coveted nest!

And to the naturalist how intensely fascinating is such a moment,
24

370 The Golden Eagle

as he looks at the great structure of sticks, perhaps 4 or even
6 ft. across, with its lining of fresh green leaves, in the centre of
which lie the two splendid eggs, usually white in ground colour
with every shade of rich brown and rufous markings! Such
moments repay the true lover of nature for all the labour and
risk. Contrast his feelings with those of the ‘collector’’ who

EGGS OF GOLDEN EAGLE. (Size 3'f in. x 2°35 1n.).

pays a man to take both the risks and the eggs for him! But
whether the object of the quest be to take the eggs, to obtain
photographs of the nests or to see the birds in their wild state,
it brings a man into touch with one of the most fascinating of
studies. The mere watching of these glorious birds in their haunts
is a revelation. The marvellous ease of their flight and the rapid
adaptation of their great wings to effect every turn and wheel in

mid-air is a never failing joy to witness. Seldom is this seen

Golden Eagles at Play 371

with better effect than when a pair of Golden Eagles indulge in
a little play around some great cliff, which they may possibly be
prospecting with a view to nesting. After various beautiful
circlings high overhead one will suddenly make a wider curve
and swing downwards and inwards until it enters the shadow cast
by the precipice. As it nears the cliff the great feathered legs
are dropped and it alights with a lurch on some projection of rock
adjacent to the proposed nesting place. For one moment it
steadies itself with a few flaps of its huge wings and then folds
them leisurely across its back. Soon the other bird will descend
rapidly from aloft with a prodigious swoop which carries it on a
downward curve far below the point where its mate is resting
and before the eye can grasp what it is about, and without any
apparent effort, the downward movement is changed into an
upward sweep which carries it to the same spot as the other.
For a few seconds there is a shrill bickering and mighty flapping
of wings, quickly followed by first one and then the other hurling
itself as it were into space, whence, with expanded wings, they
rise buoyantly once again into the bright sunlight above the
cliff and recommence their aerial evolutions. This have | seen

at times, lying prone amid the rocks and sweet-smelling cistus in

ereat cliffs above which the

some wild valley enclosed by the
Eagles play.

Clale el Ske WD ke

THE EGYPTIAN VULTURE OR NEOPHRON
(Neophron percnopterus).

A bird of repulsive habits—Yet beautiful on the wing—Handsome eggs—A
rock-nesting species in Europe—Gruesome larders—Nest and eggs—
Plumage—Similarity of young to Bearded Vulture—Regularity in migra-
tion—Sites of nests—La cueva del Cuevvo—An improvised landing net—
““Laying”’ a camera—A Marten-cat in possession—A typical Vulture’s
cavern—A nest amid boulders—A nest in a cork-oak tree—The Calpe
Hunt and birdsnesting—An evicted Snake Eagle—An undesirable tenant—

Trapping a Neophron—Peculiarity of colour pigments on eggs—Neophrons
in the Bayuda Desert.

LL that can be said both as
regards the evil habits of the
big Griffon Vulture and of its
splendid appearance on the
wing applies with double force
to this, the most unsavoury
of birds, whose snowy-white
plumage and __ black - tipped
wings seen at a distance as it
sweeps in wide curves high
overhead combined with its
light and graceful build, give it

a general appearance of clean-

liness and delicacy, which its
abits so far as regards its feeding and nesting sadly belie.
habit f gards its feeding and nesting sadly bel

“(Cuury) svcazfouriag uo.Lyfoany
AMNALINA NVILGADT

Beautiful on the Wing 373

It is when the Egyptian Vulture or Neophron, as it is also
styled, is seen close at hand that it is revealed in all its
hideousness. The bright yellow shrivelled-up skin of the naked
nead is most repulsive, whilst the mere knowledge that the bird
is one of the most unclean of feeders on the surface of the earth
does not add to its attractiveness. And yet it must be repeated
few birds present a finer sight when on the wing and still fewer
lay more beautiful eggs; some varieties being among the hand-
somest eggs to be seen. True they differ greatly both in their
colour and in the intensity of their shades but I have at times
taken eggs which for richness of colouring eclipse even the
beautiful eggs of the Osprey and the Peregrine. Many birds of
prey lay very handsome eggs but very few have such gorgeous
combinations of rich brown madders and purplish markings as have
some of the Neophron’s eggs in my collection.

The Egyptian Vulture belongs to a sub-family of the Vultures
known as the Neophrons and is abundant all along the Mediterranean
basin and in Northern Africa. It migrates southward every winter
and has been often met with as far south as Rhodesia. Large
numbers annually pass northwards through southern Andalucia in
February and March, whence they spread all over Spain. At this
time of the year they frequently may be seen collected in consider-
able numbers in trees. They almost invariably nest in rocks and
their nesting in trees in Andalucia is so unusual that when I
many years ago found one nesting in a cork tree it was con-
sidered a remarkable incident and was duly chronicled as such in
the /ézs. The allied species in India (MV. gzngzanus) habitually
nests in trees and I have of late years heard of cases of the
Egyptian Vulture doing the same in parts of Spain where rocks
are not found, such as the plains of the Guadalquiver. Opinions
differ as to whether they ever take living things. Although I
have seen them constantly at all seasons for many years, | have

274 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

personally never seen them carrying anything alive. But I believe
that they capture both lizards and small snakes, for I have found
fresh remains of both of these in their nests.

Again in the majority of Neophron’s nests I have visited, and
I have visited scores, there have been a number of mummified
heads of the big Ocellated Lizards. True, there is a possibility
that other birds kill and eat the lizards, leaving the heads and that
the Neophrons pick up these, but as I have said, I believe that
they take reptiles. That they are famous collectors of all un-
considered trifles is well-known. A list of all the articles found
in their nests would be simply interminable. Setting aside their
main stand-by as scavengers of the lowest type, proofs of which
are to be found in almost every nest, I have come across kittens,
rats, hedgehogs, tortoises, snakes, lizards, toads, frogs, remains
of foxes, of dogs and of fishes and lastly, a defunct young Griffon
Vulture, all either in a putrescent or mummifed condition. In
addition to animal remains there is usually a miscellaneous
collection of pieces of old rope, filthy rags and paper. Among
the more unexpected articles | may mention a small bag of flour
crawling with mealworms and a playing card—a King of Clubs!

The nest usually has a foundation of sticks and is warmly lined
with goatshair and lambswool, in this respect closely resembling that
of the Bearded Vulture, but of course on a very much smaller scale.
Two eggs is the usual number, although sometimes only one is
laid. These vary greatly in colour and as a rule each nest contains
one egg much more marked than the other. The first of the pair
laid would seem to be usually the richest in colour and for a long
time | adopted this theory, until | came across a pair, of which the
one with obsolete colouring was well set, whereas the darker one
was quite fresh. From this it will be gathered that sometimes
a considerable interval elapses between the dates of laying of the
eggs. Some eggs are richly coloured all over with dark brown

A Neophron’s Larder 375

and rufous shades, others have a white ground with reddish-brown
blotches. Sometimes one egg will be strongly marked with brown

and the other speckled and marbled with pale purplish markings.
The young are almost naked when first ‘hatched out, a sparse

"NEOPHRON’S NEST WITH DEAD RAT IN T.ARDER.

growth of very long white down only partially concealing their
skin. Young birds when fully fledged are dark brown all over
and at this period of their existence, owing to their wedge-shaped
tail have much the appearance of Bearded Vultures on the wing,
of course they are only half as large but in the absence of other

376 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

birds to enable one to form an opinion as to their size, such a mis-
take is possible. I confess to having made it twice myself, at far
distant places; once amid the rocky hills near Philae, during the
Nile Expedition of 1884, and once in southern Spain. On each
occasion, the advent on the scene of an adult Neophron in its black
and white plumage quickly disabused me of my mistake, but |
mention the circumstance as showing how a person well accustomed
to both species can make a mistake.

It is curious that whereas in Egypt and Nubia immature
Neophrons in the brown dress swarm and at times and places
vreatly exceed those in the white plumage, they are rarely seen
in southern Spain save when first they leave the nest. In fact
the proportion of adult to immature birds is overwhelming. Thus
on 24 March 1894 | noticed twenty white to one dark brown bird
roosting in the cork trees. Similarly throughout the whole spring
of 1907, I saw but one dark brown bird among many scores of
adult birds. If, as is probably the case, they do not acquire the
adult plumage for three years, it must be concluded that only the
adult birds migrate to Europe for the nesting season. Every
spring they arrive in hundreds almost invariably in pairs, some-
times ten or fifteen pairs together passing northward. The largest
number pass during the last week in March. It is interesting to
see how almost to a day a pair will arrive from the African coast
and take possession of the crag where a nest was in the preceding
year. I have seen examples of this on many occasions.

The favourite site for the nest is in a cavern or shelf protected
from the rain by an overhanging rock. Very rarely have I seen
a nest which was not thus protected. I know of several situations
which are used some years by Griffons and in others by Neophrons,
also other sites which are used by Ravens and Neophrons. In
justice to the Ravens I have never known them return to a place
the year after a Neophron has defiled it, but I have often seen
the converse.

Habits when on Migration 377

Like many other birds of prey, Neophrons at times nest in the
most difficult and inaccessible places. Thus | know of a nest in

a small cavern or rather hole in the face of a cliff over qoo ft. high

LA CUEVA DEL CUERVO A NEOPHRON’S CRAG.

and not 4o ft. from the bottom. The cliff is known as La Lata
“the tin plate,” from its smoothness. To get this nest would require

several hundred feet of rope.

378 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

Again I know of others in caves on overhanging cliffs which
are practically impossible to reach and assuredly are not worth the
trouble to attempt. One of the most artfully placed nests I know
of is in a pinnacle rock on the side of a low sierra, not more than
30 ft. or 4o ft. in height which is unclimbable save at one point.

The crag is riven in two by a deep and narrow “joint” or
fissure and the nest is placed on a ledge in the same, at a point
about one-third of the height from the top, and the entrance to
it is equally impossible to reach by escalade from below or by
descent with a rope from above since the rock overhangs as can
be seen in the picture on the preceding page. From time imme-
morial a pair of Ravens had nested in this crag which is known to
the country folk as La cueva del Cuervo, The Raven's Cave, but
having been disturbed the Ravens deserted it and for the last
fourteen years it has been usually occupied by a pair of Neophrons.

In 1894 I found the Neophrons in possession and climbed to the
top of the crag cn the far side, but was apparently no nearer getting at
the nest than from the ground below. Unluckily for the Neophrons,
I was able to drop some 12 ft. down the fissure, at the point
where the speck of light is to be seen close to the summit and
thus get on the same level and within about 6 ft. of the nest.
From this point I could see the eggs but it was impossible to reach
them since between me and the nest the fissure narrowed to only
a few inches. I however extemporized a landing net with a cane
and a small tin insect-box lashed at the end of it with which I
extracted the eggs. In this nest were two wild boar’s tusks of
some size. Some years later I again visited the same spot and
found it tenanted. My object on this occasion was photography
and I managed to push my Kodak camera at arm’s length into the
narrow crevice. It was impossible to look into the finder, but I
propped the camera on bits of rock and lay it as true as I could
and gave a long-time exposure. As will be seen, I got rather more

An Artfully-placed Nest 379

of the wall-like side of the fissure into the foreground of the
picture than [ needed but in the circumstances I was lucky in

getting a picture at all,

NEST OF NEOPHRON IN NARROW FISSURE.

Over the edge of the nest the tops of the cork trees in a

wooded valley below the crag can be seen in the picture. The

380 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

ordinary line of approach to this pinnacle rock is.along this valley in
full view of the entrance to the nest. Knowing as | now do of
the Raven’s cunning habits of making use of a front and back
entrance to its nesting place whenever possible, I realize how it
came about that this crag obtained its name, for surely never was
a place better adapted for a bird to enter or leave without attracting
attention.

A few years ago I had a curious meeting in this cave with a
beautiful Marten Cat (A/ustela foina). I was squeezing myself down
the fissure on my way to the nest when my daughter, who had
climbed to the top of the crag and was watching my descent, called
out to me there was an animal in the cavern close to me and
looking round [I saw on the level of my face through a rift in the
rock a Marten crouching low and showing a fine set of teeth.
Quickly drawing my pistol I fired at it at a few inches range! The
Marten although shot through the body managed to spring out of
the cave and bounding across the top of the crag disappeared into
a deep cleft where it was impossible to extract it. It was a
disgraceful let-off but should anybody deride my non-success, |
would suggest they try for themselves the amusement of putting
a hand into a cavern held by a truculent Marten Cat, possibly
with kittens not far off.

I know of a big cavern some hundreds of feet up the face of
a limestone cliff in the Serrania of Ronda where, in some years,
several Griffons nest in close proximity one to another. To reach
this cavern it is necessary to sidle along a very narrow and some-
what dangerous ledge from one flank of the cliff. Several of the
Griffon’s nests are either on the floor of the cavern or on convenient
ledges around it and, once the cavern is reached, can be literally
walked into. But there is a sort of natural balcony running along
one side of the cavern which can only be got at by climbing a
fig tree for about 12 or 15 ft. (the topmost branches can be

A Marten Cat in Possession 381

seen on the left of the picture below) and then swinging oneself

from it on to the balcony. At the far end of this is a considerable

A VULTURE’S CAVERN.

( The Neophron's nest tsin a hollow behind the stone balcony tn front of the fisure on the right ).

ledge where some years ago I found a Griffon’s nest, a picture of
which appears at p. 44.

In 1907, I visited this cavern with some young naval officers.

382 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

There were no Griffons. about, which I accounted for by the fact
that a pair of Golden Eagles were nesting in the big cliff just above.
A pair of Neophrons had however taken possession and I was
fortunate in being able to take a picture of their nest with my Goerz
lens. | subsequently sent my party up the tree to inspect the nest
and took a photograph of them at the moment the leading climber
had reached it and was looking into it. I give the picture since it
is eminently characteristic of the situations in which both Griffons
and Neophrons most delight.

Although I have seen some hundreds of Neophrons nests in all
sorts of situations, some most inaccessible and others the reverse,
it is only within the last few years that I have found them nesting
practically on the ground. Twice, once in 1903 and once in 1907,
have 1 come across nests built in a crevice amid big boulders on
a hill side within a few feet of a mountain path! In each case the
birds undoubtedly relied upon the remoteness of the situation and
the fact that the path led nowhere save to a tract of grazing for goats
and cattle. As shown in the picture on p. 383 a man standing on
the rock in the centre can reach the nest in the small cavern just
above it. The photograph is taken from the track. The fact that
there are hundreds of similar valleys overgrown with giant heath
and cistus and dotted with big grey rocks in all directions, all
bewilderingly alike, no doubt influenced the birds in their choice of
quarters. But when I recall the long days I have spent and the
arduous climbs I have made when in quest of Neophron’s nests,
such an example of a nesting station is a veritable veductio ad
absurdum.

The example of an Egyptian Vulture nesting in a tree which
has been already alluded to is a curious one and well illustrative
of the danger of generalizing on the habits of wild birds. Prior
to finding this the description that this bird ‘invariably nests in

cliffs’ was generally accepted.

EG\

AND EGGS Ol

NEST

A Nest in a Cork Tree 383

It was on 6 April, 1879, when riding through the Cork Woods
near Gibraltar, on one of my usual tours of inspection of the nesting
stations in the district that I visited a nest of the Snake Eagle, which
had been occupied by these birds in 1877. This nest was on the

horizontal branch of a cork tree about 20 ft. from the ground.

NEOPHRON’S NEST AMID BOULDERS ON A HILL-SIDE.

Seeing that it had been recently repaired, I climbed up to it and
found it freshly lined with goatshair. Since Snake Eagles invari-
ably use fresh green ilex boughs with leaves on them for lining
their nests, this somewhat puzzled me. Still, it was plain that the

nest had been recently repaired and, as if to clinch the matter, a

384 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

Snake Eagle was soaring overhead and making a great outcry at
my presence. Five days later I was again on my rounds and again
climbed to the nest, only to find it empty. But alot more goats-
hair lining had been added since my previous visit. The old Snake
Eagle was again flying near the spot. Yet again, five days later,
on 16 April, | was out with the Calpe hounds and we found a fox
near the Duke of Kent's Farm and after some ringing around the
briars there he started away for the Soto Gordo and was eventually
killed near the Alcadezar Crags. During the run we passed close
to the Snake Eagle’s tree and for a third time I saw the old bird
close to it. Determined to solve the mystery, two days later, on
18 April I once again rode out to the nest and approached it warily.
When not 20 yards off I saw a big bird sitting in it which on hearing
my approach raised its head—the hideous yellow head of the
Egyptian Vulture! At last I had accounted for the seeming
departure of the Snake Eagle from its invariable habits. 1 climbed
up and found the nest contained one egg of the deeply marked
variety. The Eagle’s nest was, to put it plainly, a beastly sight
owing to the Vulture’s alterations and additions; I suppose like
other new tenants of old dwellings, she would have described them
as improvements. For the freshly placed goatshair of a week since
was now smothered with filthy rags, bits of tarred rope, manure of
various sorts and putrid remains of animals and fish. I took the
egg and put in a trap; the old bird returned very soon and settled
on an adjacent bough whence she walked into the nest. Some-
thing however aroused her suspicions, for she suddenly took wing.
Exactly a week later, 25 April, | was again on my rounds and being
still unable to account for the presence of the Snake Eagle near
the Neophron’s nest, I visited the cork-tree.

To my great surprise the old Vulture was sitting in the nest and
on climbing up I found a second egg, very pale rufous in colouring

oD’

and smaller than the first. This egg was quite fresh and was, as

far as | could judge, laid a week subsequent to the first one.

In the Bayuda Desert 385

I was determined to trap the old bird as a proof of the unusual
circumstances attending her nesting. I had with me a hard-boiled
egg. It did not take long, with the aid of my sketching appliances,
to colour this egg with a judicious mixture of vandyke brown and
light red. Then, climbling up to the tree and noting on which side
of the nest the bird entered, I placed my trap near the edge and
the hen’s egg in the centre of it.

After lying in ambush under a clump of bright cytisus for
exactly twenty-five minutes, the Neophron returned and alighting
on the bough, as before, walked in and sprang the trap, which
held her securely by one hind-toe, and she fell to the ground.
Throwing my jacket over her, she was soon bound captive and
conveyed to the Rock. Here I secured her ina “ falconer’s brace ”
and she waddled about for some days and fed heartily on anything
she could get, but her presence was not appreciated in the
Regiment and after a few days interesting study of her pretty
ways I removed the brace and let her go, none the worse for
her brief confinement.

There is a peculiarity about the egg of the Egyptian Vulture
which is seldom met with in the case of other birds’ eggs. The
colouring, especially that of newly-laid eggs, is of so superficial a
nature as to come off easily. After a severe climb on a hot day
I have more than once damaged an egg by taking it up in my
warm hand and [| have a peculiarly richly marked egg now in my
collection which shows the places where my perspiring fingers
gripped it when engaged in blowing it, nigh thirty years ago.

There is something peculiarly unbirdlike and uncanny in the
general appearance of these birds and also in their movements on
the ground. I have a lively recollection of their habits and
customs when in the Soudan in 1885. About a month after the
battle of Abu Klea I was ordered to make a sketch of the place
where our square had received the onslaught of the Arabs. The

25)

386 The Egyptian Vulture or Neophron

bodies of the latter lay about in hundreds, mixed with scores of
the swollen carcases of camels and horses. Apparently both the
great Marabou Storks (Leptoptilus crumeniferus) and the larger
Vultures (Vudtur auricularis, Gyps riippelii and others) had given
up the task of clearing up the battlefield as one quite beyond their
powers and had gone to the more convenient scenes of our fight-
ing near the Nile, where I had seen many congregated. But the
Egyptian Vultures were evidently not so easily daunted and pairs
of these evil-looking birds were to be seen amid the throng of
white-coated men, which lay thick in places on the hot sandy
hill-side, stalking from one to another as if undecided where to
recommence operations.

Some ten days later, during our retreat across the Bayuda
Desert, these birds constantly accompanied us, halting when we
halted. I have a peculiarly vivid impression of awaking at grey
dawn and perceiving close to me a pair of white birds whose
ghostly forms in the mysterious early morning light of the Desert
seemed more than ever uncanny as they walked about among the
recumbent forms of our men still asleep in their bivouacs.

‘(aya “yy *f) swaznf sftp
‘AMALINA NOAATWD

387

CHAPTER VIII.
THE GRIFFON VULTURE (Gyps filvus).

Vulture’s reputations—Horrible appearance when feeding—Splendid sight on
the wing—Personal cleanliness—A tame Griffon—A great bather—The
fascination of large birds—My first Vulture’s cliff—An unscientific climb in
1878—Nests in caverns—Passages through uptilted strata—Griffons’ nests—
Great variety in style— Marked” Griffon’s eggs—Dimensions of nests—
Time of nesting—Carrying materials for nests—Periodical repairs—Sanitary
precautions—Carrying powers of beak and foot—Young Griffons—Habit
of simulating death—and extreme sickness—Closing an interview—The
Vulture’s ruff—Successive stages of plumage—Powers of resistance—Savage
appearance—But harmless and afraid of man—An exception to the rule—A
wounded Griffon—Vast numbers of Vultures in Spain—Habit of roosting
in trees.

ULTURES have deservedly acquired
an unsavoury reputation, and _ it
would be hopeless to expect the
average traveller who has seen them
intent on their normal occupation
of feeding on some carcase, not
infrequently putrid, from viewing
them with intense disgust and abhor-
rence. So intent are the birds as
they swarm round a dead animal
and rend it to fragments with their
powerful beaks, bolting huge lumps,
that it is easy enough to approach
close enough to watch their every

388 The Griffon Vulture

movement, and very unpleasant they are. Setting aside their
admitted want of discrimination in the matter of food, at any rate
according to our tastes, and one or two of their habits and customs
immediately connected with it, to which allusion will be made
later, they are without question, when on the wing, among the
most magnificent of birds. To watch them circling thousands of
feet overhead on the look-out for food or sailing past one of the
grand cliffs whither they resort to nest in big colonies is a never-
failing joy. During the many years I have spent among wild birds
I have from time to time induced friends to accompany me to some
of the nesting-stations of these birds and have as often witnessed
the surprise and delight they have betrayed on first seeing the
Vultures on the wing in these localities. On such occasions one
is far removed from the spot where the birds have found their
last unsavoury meal, and one only thinks of them and sees them
as splendid birds with vast expanse of wing endowed with most
marvellous powers of flight.

Those who have only seen a party of Vultures fighting over
a carcase and defiling their plumage with its horrible fragments
will hardly credit that the Vulture at home, given reasonable time
to perform its toilet after one of its orgies, is one of the most spick-
and-span of birds. Under its feathers is a mass of snowy white
down which is ever kept in the most irreproachable condition.
Those who are taken aback by the apparent inconsistency are
invited to inspect the case of Vultures at the British Museum of
Natural History and to judge for themselves of the correctness
of my assertion. The big female bird with outspread wings to
be seen there was shot from the nest and skinned and preserved
by me, and was in exactly the same beautiful clean condition when
first killed as now. Again, a young bird taken from the nest and
brought up on fresh food is as little objectionable as is any other
bird kept in captivity. I have put this to a practical test and

Personal Cleanliness 389

kept a young Griffon for over two and a half years; during
that time it not only was never in the least offensive but kept
its plumage in the finest condition imaginable. A great bather,
its chief delight was to be played upon with a garden _ hose,
when it would expand its wings and gyrate slowly so as to let the
water strike every part of its body. <A favourite position was to
throw itself on one side and expand the disengaged wing so that
the water could strike its axillaries with force ; after some minutes
of this treatment it would turn round and similarly expand the
other wing for a like course of spraying.

For the purposes of our national and other collections I have
from time to time killed and skinned Vultures and Eagles of
various sorts, and my experience is that, apart from their food,
there is little to chose between the two classes of birds. A
Vulture that has not recently had a big meal is in itself, no more
unpleasant to handle than is any other big raptorial bird. In fact
I have had far more trying times when engaged in preserving
the body of an Eagle, especially of the type which habitually feed
upon snakes and big lizards, than when similarly engaged over a
Vulture. All the same, I have no particular desire to repeat the
process in either case.

The fascination which large birds and especially large raptorial
birds have ever had for me would be difficult to explain. From
the moment when I first saw Vultures on the wing I became
obsessed with the desire to find their nests and see them at home.
I had nobody to put me in the way of this, as I have done for
others since, and I had to work on my own lines with no help
and much discouragement, since I was at the time ignorant of the
language of the country, and my birdsnesting proclivities were
viewed with pity, tinged possibly with just a little contempt, by not
a few of my more enlightened brother officers.

Naturally enough, | directed my quest in the first instance to

390 The Griffon Vulture

the largest and most inaccessible precipices, which, as we are all
told from our childhood, are the home of Eagle and Vulture.
Nor was I disappointed in so far as seeing the birds went, but
they were nesting in situations which were either absolutely im-
possible to reach without ropes and plenty of them, or by cliff
climbing of the most perilous and adventurous type. As I had
neither ropes at hand nor any experience of rock-work at the time,
I had in the first instance to accept defeat. Three years elapsed
before I was able to make an expedition to the same spot: during
that interval I had profited by my former experiences and had
become a fairly competent cliff climber. I had, above all, by
going aloft at sea obtained the necessary confidence in dealing
with heights. Previous to this I was looked upon as an expert
tree climber; in fact, there were few trees which | could not climb
and none which had defeated me where reaching a coveted nest
was concerned. But there is a vast difference between working
up the top of a tall tree, possibly 100 ft. high, with a good hand-
hold, and working among crags where the heights are reckoned in
hundreds in lieu of in tens of feet and the chances of a sound hand-
hold are most uncertain in places. The cliff where I obtained my
first Griffon Vulture’s egg has since become well-known owing to
an account of my expedition thither, which I wrote to the late
Henry Seebohm, having been published in his work on “ British
Birds’ Nests and Eggs,” for the Griffon is by courtesy a British
Bird owing to a wanderer having been once taken in Ireland.
An old friend of mine, however, a famous ornithologist, now dead,
who had seen thousands of Griffons in his life, was certain he saw
one in the New Forest about twenty-five years ago,

This cliff is a very imposing mass of sandstone which rises over
six hundred feet from the stream at its base; a portion of it is
much fissured and broken and contains numerous caverns wherein
these big birds delight to nest. This part is easily scaled by any

My First Vulture’s Cliff 391

good climber. Other portions however to the eye are as smooth
as a wall, and decidedly perilous to traverse. The whole surface
of the cliff slopes at 60 to 7o degrees, and the strata at places
afford a precarious foot-hold and hand-hold. <A distant view of
this great cliff as well as one showing a portion of the face of it
will be found in the chapter dealing with Cliff climbing. Owing
to want of experience I attempted to scale this grand cliff the
wrong way and although I was fortunate enough to succeed,
I deserved to have broken my neck. I say this with intent, for
some sixteen years later I went down this same cliff with the aid
of a light Alpine Club rope and revisited the various spots I had
escaladed on the occasion of my first expedition, and in the light
of wider experience and of many adventures | can only repeat that
it was sheer good fortune that I came out of that cliff unhurt on
the occasion of my first visit. More particularly do I recall two
absolutely culpable errors, the results of over-confidence and of
lack of knowledge of the unwritten rules of climbing. Once
I let myself drop on to a ledge whence it was impossible to return,
for it is one thing to drop neatly with one’s feet on a few square
inches and another to use the same restricted area to spring from
so as to recover one’s hand-hold even a foot beyond one’s reach
overhead; more especially if there is a matter of 300 ft. or so
between the place where one is standing and the next step
below. In this instance I was forced to continue my climb, and
it was absolutely a game of chance where I should come to next
and whether I should be able to find a way out.

The second mistake was the result of even more unskilful
conduct, for I swung myself round a projecting crag into a cavern
which did not admit of egress by the same route. A sketch of
this awkward spot is given in the frontispiece of this book. Here
I nearly remained for all time, but fortune once again favoured
me, and by means of emulating the action of the chimney sweep

392 The Griffon Vulture
of old I managed to scramble up a fissure for some 50 ft. and
To this day I can recall the sensa-

thus make good my escape.

IN A CAVERN.

NEST OF GRIFFON VULTURE

tions of the start from that nest at a point where the fissure
was widest and up which I had to spread-eagle, back to the cliff,

Nesting Habits 393

and with nothing in front of one except the fresh air and a
magnificent view !

Although many, probably the great majority, of Griffons’
nests are placed in caverns or, in their absence, on ledges, which
are alike difficult and dangerous to reach, this is by no means
always the case. Every year during the course of my wanderings
in wilder Spain do I come across nests which are easy of access,
often without the aid of a rope or involving climbing in the crags-
men’s sense of the word; especially in remote districts where these
birds have not had their nests harried. But even where nests
are placed in dangerous and difficult sites, there is sometimes
a means of avoiding a direct attack in such places. ‘Thus
in about half a dozen instances as already described I have
taken advantage of “joints” or other geological formations of
the cliffs and the existence of deep chasms and fissures near the
summit of the tilted-up crags to penetrate from the reverse slope
through the heart of the hill and emerge on a terrace on the face
of the precipice, at times over a hundred feet from the top.
It seems almost an unfair advantage to take, since the birds
obviously do not reckon upon such tactics. All the same, on
several occasions it has proved a most succcessful method
of approach, and has been of late years, since I have been
partially disabled, of peculiar aid to me in reaching many besides
Vultures’ nests. In such situations it frequently happens that
some point is reached where extreme care has to be observed
in traversing an awkward place. Once over such a spot and
at the first nest it not uncommonly occurs that several other nests
in the immediate vicinity can be literally walked into without any
appreciable risk.

Of the nest itself it is difficult to write, for few birds seem to
hold more divergent views on the subject of the size and shape
of their nursery than do Griffons. Hence it is that whereas one

394 The Griffon Vulture

writer styles the nest a great and untidy platform another
describes it as a neatly finished and lined bowl. Having had
the opportunity of visiting many scores of nests I have come to
the conclusion that individual Griffons vary in their ideas of
comfort and cleanliness almost as much as do human beings, and
that in consequence both of the foregoing descriptions are accurate
in certain cases.

Some may ask why I thus visit so many nests of the same
species of bird. The reply is that although the Griffon usually lays
one egg (I have never seen more than one egg in a nest, despite
the tale that they sometimes lay two, which I doubt), normally
pure white ; sometimes their eggs are marked with rufous spots
and streaks. Such specimens are of course a joy to all who wish
for a rare addition to their collections. Hence I never see a
Griffon’s nest in a situation where it can be reached without
undue risk or a sacrifice of valuable time but I pay it a visit,
ever sanguine of being rewarded by the sight of a handsomely
marked specimen. As a matter of fact | have only come across
three eggs with any pretensions to markings in over thirty years, in
spite of many scores I have seen. Possibly I have been unlucky,
but my estimate is that on the average not more than one in
forty are thus marked. Yet one day I had the good fortune to
get two marked eggs out of eight nests visited.

The typical Griffon’s nest is placed in a cavern, when a cavern
is to be found, which, as I have said, partly explains their marked
predilection for the sandstone cliffs of southern Spain rather than
the limestone, which offer fewer suitable sites. Failing however a
cavern or deep fissure, these birds will nest on an open ledge or on
the big terraces which are found on some of the great cliffs.

The nests have a foundation of big sticks, dried branches of
trees and of heather, the platform varying from 2 ft. to 4 ft. in
diameter. Some have a fairly neatly formed basin about 15 in.

NEST OF GRIFFON VULTURE IN DEEP CREVASSI

Sanitary Precautions 395

across, lined with dried tufts of grass, palmetto, &c., whilst others
have but little more than a central depression amid a collection
of the stiff quill feathers which the old birds have obviously
gathered from some adjacent Griffons’ roosting station. Griffons
lay as a rule early in February, although I have seen eggs a
month earlier and have taken fresh eggs in March and April
and still more rarely in May. Most possibly those found in
April and later are a second laying, due to the first having been
taken. On one occasion | watched no less than ten pairs of these
birds busily engaged in bringing materials to their nests; this was
on January 24; I was therefore not a little puzzled at seeing them
some three months later carrying good sized leafy branches, freshly
broken from cork and ilex trees, to the cliffs.

The Griffon often carries its nesting materials in the beak, the
foot not being so well adapted for such a purpose. The appear-
ance of these great birds steadily winging their way to some crag
with a leafy branch of cork or ilex or wild olive, a foot or
more in length, held in the beak is absurdly suggestive of the
curious medieval pictures of the dove returning to the ark with
the olive branch. For some years I imagined that the birds when
thus engaged were building a new nest in spite of the lateness
of the season. One day however after seeing a Vulture enter a
cavern, branch in beak, I climbed up to it and found a newly-lined
nest, the infant Vulture in it having been provided with an entirely
new change of bedding in the form of freshly cut branches of
green ilex and heath placed on the top of the dirty and much-
used nest. Since then I have repeatedly found other Vultures of
similar sanitary sense. But although Griffons thus carry branches
of trees in their beaks, when engaged in building their nests they
are frequently to be seen flying to the cliffs, holding big’ sticks,
straw, tufts of grass and sundry other objects in their feet. When
thus occupied their legs are stretched out behind, in place of being

396 The Griffon Vulture

retracted, as is usual with birds carrying things on the wing. I have
often watched Griffons sitting upon the upper branches of a cork-tree

YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE, ABOUT FOUR DAYS OLD,

busily engaged in breaking off branches with their powerful beaks to
convey to their nests. There can be no doubt that when a Griffon

Young Griffons in Nest 397

perched on a bough has thus broken off a branch, it is more

convenient for it to carry it in the beak than in the foot. On

YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE, ABOUT TWO WEEKS OLD, FEIGNIN( EATH
UPON NEAR APPROACH ( CLIMBEI

the other hand, any objects they lift from the ground are usually

carried in the foot. Cliffs much frequented by Griffons as nesting-

398 The Griffon Vulture

stations are far from being ideal spots, and the pungent smell of
death and decay which pervades them is one of the minor trials
the enthusiastic naturalist has to bear during the course of his
studies.

The egg is of considerable size and very globular in shape
measuring about 4 in. by 3} in. The young when hatched out
are lumps of white down with black bead-like eyes. They rapidly
increase in size; when only two weeks old they weigh five pounds
and their primary feathers begin to show, whilst the neck feathers
which eventually form the ruff are distinctly visible. | When
the climber suddenly comes across a young Griffon in the nest,
no matter what size it may be, (Griffons remain in the nest for
some months and until nearly full grown) it instantly simulates
death by throwing itself flat with its head lying in a dislocated
fashion on one side and remains motionless thus for some time.
The illusion thus produced is often heightened by the local con-
ditions. Thus when I came upon the young bird two weeks old
figured on the last page, it was a stifling hot day in May. The
sun's rays beat fiercely into the gully on the rocks surrounding
the nest and there was not a breath of air. The young bird lay
with its head on one side and with the nictitating membrane
drawn over its eye, as shown in the picture, to all appearance
dead. All about the dirty nest were swarms of brilliantly green
“blue-bottles” which settled on and crawled about the young bird.
What between the heat, the sickly effluvia of the place, and the
stillness only broken by the buzzing of the carrion flies it was
a complete counterfeit presentment of death. It was not until I
had got out my camera and taken a couple of pictures of this most
accomplished actor that it apparently came to the conclusion that it
was about time to come to life again and vary the entertainment.

I have seen young Griffons only a few hours after emerging
from the egg adopt this means to avoid observation, and, as will

Curious Habit of Feigning Death 399

be seen in a subsequent picture, they continue to resort to it when
nearly full grown. When moved or disturbed they utter a feeble

twittering call,

YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE, ABOUT THREE WEEKS OLD.

When a young Vulture finds that its most earnest attempts at
simulating death are ignored and that the intruder persists in
remaining in the vicinity, it adopts more active and _ stringent
methods of inducing him to withdraw, which are as unexpected
as they are unpleasant. For, after recovering consciousness as
quickly as it had pretended to lose it, it makes a series of bows

400 The Griffon Vulture

accompanied by a regurgitating process which quickly ends in the
rejection of the whole of its last meal! When one considers what
this must have been, it is best left to the imagination what it is
like when thus presented to the too importunate naturalist.

I made the discovery of this pretty habit in a very simple
fashion. It was the first time I had got among the young Vultures
and I was naturally much interested in seeing a young bird, which
had assuredly never set eyes on a human being before, instantly
sham death upon detecting my approach. Having got out my
camera and taken a picture of it in this position at a few feet
range, I proceeded to wedge the camera on the rock so as to
take a time-exposure. The ledge I was on was narrow and
behind me was space, the foot of the crag lying some hundreds
of feet below. It was at the critical moment when I was deeply
engrossed in the usual agonies of hand-camera work that my
subject, rising from its simulated trance, made me a present of
its last meal! Since then I have seen many young Griffons
and have suffered from their manners and customs, but the
memory of that first introduction to them and of my hasty de-
parture upwards, for to retire was impossible, lives with me still.

The beautiful white ruff around the gaunt neck of a Griffon isa
sign of maturity. As a nestling and during the first and second
years it has a ruff, but in place of being one of fine white down
it is composed of fulvous lanceolate feathers. The exact period
when these give way to the adult plumage is uncertain, but [|
have proved by the bird I kept in an aviary and which now
figures at the British Museum that the change does not come
into effect at any rate before the third year. On the other
hand | have seen parent Griffons who wore the miniature feather
ruff in place of the white down one. From their movements
I imagined them to be males; certainly all the females I have
put off nests near enough to see the plumage wore the white ruff.

Size and Weight 401

An adult Griffon weighs about 18 lb. (not qo lb. as some

writers on Spain have asserted), and the expanse of wing varies

YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE, ABOUT SIX WEEKS OLD, FEIGNING DEATH.

from 8 ft. to 9 ft.; when on the wing the tips of their primaries
are widely separated like the extended fingers of one’s hand.
26

402 The Griffon Vulture

This and the extreme shortness and squareness of the tail are
noticeable features, which render it easy to identify the bird at a
great distance.

I have often been asked whether these great birds ever show
fight when their nests and young are molested. As a matter of fact

YOUNG GRIFFON VULTURE, ABOUT EIGHT WEEKS OLD: THE OFFENSIVE-DEFENSIVE.

actually they never do, but it took me some time before I realized
that they are far too much alarmed at the presence of man to attempt
to attack him. It is of course obvious enough that a bird of such
size and weight, and capable of moving with such velocity, could

Demeanour when Nesting 403

by a well-timed swoop easily dislodge a man from any dangerous
ledge, where both hand-hold and foot-hold are alike uncertain,
only the fact remains that they never think of such a_ thing.
Those who have not penetrated into their haunts can_ hardly
imagine the loud rustling sound they produce by their movement
through the air as they approach their nests. At times when |
have been safely ensconced at the back of some cavern on the
face of a cliff waiting for the chance of a photograph, the Griffons
which had been sailing around high above the cliff, emboldened
at seeing nobody about, have come swooping down to inspect
their nests with a noise which can best be likened to a powerful
steam-blast ; this, heard for the first time, is decidedly startling.
Sometimes when | have been climbing along the face of a crag
a Griffon has suddenly rounded a corner of the cliff, gliding within
a few feet of me with outspread and apparently motionless wings,
its fierce looking head and eye bent inquiringly towards me. But
the instant it detected my presence, it would heel over in its flight,
and by a few strokes showing extraordinary strength sweep upwards
and away.

On one and one only of my many scores of visits to Griffons’
nests did one of these birds even attempt to oppose my approach.
This was in 1907; I was working along the ledges of a tall cliff
when | heard a loud hissing sound which was repeated again and
again. On rounding a crag, I saw an adult Griffon standing up
over her nest which contained an egg, not 15 ft. from me. So
long as I stood still the great bird continued to strike a_ series
of threatening attitudes, at intervals emitting a loud hissing sound
much resembling an escape of steam. She was very loth to quit
her egg and every time I made as if to depart, she subsided on
it and recommenced sitting, only to rise again and hiss savagely
when I returned towards her. I got out my camera and photo-
graphed her in one of these positions, but regret that owing to

404 The Griffon Vulture

the direction of the sun and the impossibility of my shifting my
position on the narrow ledge I occupied, the photograph, although
of considerable interest, is not sufficiently defined for reproduction
here. Eventually the Vulture took wing, but so long as | remained
in the vicinity she sailed round the cliff at times passing close to
me with a mighty swish of wings in a most threatening manner.
At intervals she would alight on some pinnacle crag within 30
yards of me and recommence hissing. Here, owing again to the
position of the sun, I utterly failed to photograph her although |
tried many times.

I tell this story at length because in all my long experiences
of Eagles and Vultures I have known no other bird come so near
to threatening a man as this.

Had this pugnacious Vulture but been aware of her own strength
and of the weakness of my position on the narrow stratum of rock,
she could of course easily have dislodged me. But I am well
assured nothing would have induced her to approach me any
nearer than she did. I can only account for her pugnacity by
the fact that her stronghold was in a very remote sierra and
in a position where she had probably never been approached
save by some lad tending goats who would likely enough have
been deterred by her threatening demeanour. | had not the heart
to take that egg and was pleased to see her return to it as |
ascended the cliff.

Again, only once have I seen or heard of a Griffon attack-
ing a man and that was in the case of a wounded bird and
hence cannot fairly be reckoned as a genuine example. It was
at the time I was engaged in obtaining some Vultures for the
British Museum. I had shot an old female from the top of a
cliff as she left her nest and she fell into the scrub below.
Upon going round to the foot of the cliff to pick her up, when
forcing my way through the cistus and giant heath, | suddenly

Attacked by a Wounded Griffon 405

came upon the poor bird lying in an open patch with a broken
wing. The instant she saw me, she rose up and made one
spring, and before I could parry her advance seized my arm near
the shoulder in her powerful beak, tearing a hole in both coat
and shirt and inflicting an unpleasant wound, and repeating the
attack with great determination before I could despatch her.

It has ever been a marvel to travellers and naturalists how and
where the immense numbers of Vultures seen in the countries they
inhabit can find food enough. It is no uncommon sight in southern
Spain to see eighty or more collected around a single dead beast.
Not long since a cow died during the night close to my dwelling,
and next morning there were seventy Griffons ready to commence
work upon it. Small wonder that, with such a ravenous throng
ever ready to perform the funeral obsequies, it takes but a short
time for the carcase of horse or cow to disappear. On the other
hand I shall never understand why a body is at times left untouched
for weeks by the Vultures, though this is so. One of the most
curious gatherings of Vultures I have seen was a large party in
waiting on a drowned pig which lay some few yards from the shore
of a lake, half-stranded in the shallows. First one and then another
Griffon would attempt to alight upon it, when it naturally rolled
over, dislodging the first comer, whose place was quickly taken by
asecond. At times the birds engaged in a furious duel over the
carcass, beating the water into foam with their huge wings and
giving vent to frantic twitterings, a curious call for so large and
savage a bird,

When not in search of food, Griffons commonly collect in parties
of from ten to thirty and perch on the summit of some crag, whence
they can keep a good look out. Should the weather be wet
and wild, they are much addicted to roosting in some big cavern
among the sierras. In windy weather they collect in the more
sheltered valleys and sit on the top of the cork-trees, often only

406 The Griffon Vulture

20 to 25 ft. above the ground. I know of some quiet valleys where,
if a strong wind be blowing, I am sure of seeing over thirty
Vultures thus at rest, especially after three o'clock of an afternoon,
which seems to be the hour when they usually discontinue their
marvellous aerial reconnaissances in quest of carrion.

BEARDED VULTURE.

Gypaitus barbatus (Linn.)

407

ChAT REX,
THE BEARDED VULTURE (Gypaétus barbatus).

Popular superstitions—Bearded Vulture or Lammergeyer—An early _nester
—Repeated unsuccessful efforts to obtain eggs—Splendid powers of
flight—A dramatic meeting—Encounter between Bearded Vulture and
Griffon—Locate a nest—Description of cliff and surroundings—Reach
terrace below nest—Ice and snow—Baffled—A forlorn hope—KReach the
summit—Joining ropes—The descent—Am joined by Farquhar—The final
lower—A jambed rope—Reach the nest—Bitter disappointment—Land on
ledge below—The story of the jamb—Second expedition—Find a new nest
—Description of situation—Reach point 100 ft. above nest—A dangerous
cliff—A nasty descent—An overhung nest—Empty again!—An unsolved
riddle—Quebranta-huesos, the Bone-breaker—A_ reputed habit—Watch
Bearded Vulture carry and drop an animal's leg—It descends and feeds
off fragments—Re-ascends with leg—Returns to carcass—Conclusive
evidence of habit.

F all the great birds of prey there is
none which appeals more to the
popular imagination than does _ the
Bearded Vulture or, to give it the
imposing title which it still bears
in mid-Europe, the Lammergeyer.
There has been some dispute as
to the correct nomenclature of this
bird, some advocating the first and
others the second of the names
given. Those who yet cling to
Lammergeyer do so partly for
sentimental reasons ; the bird is not
British even in the most elastic
interpretation and in the regions

where it originally became known

408 The Bearded Vulture

to the world, Switzerland and the Tyrol, it has been since medieval
times invested with almost supernatural powers, from killing adven-
turous chamois-hunters or boys who sought to rob their nests, by
knocking them off cliffs, to carrying off infants and, in its milder
moments, preying upon chamois and sheep which it slew and
carried off in mid-air to its eyrie in some appalling cliff, many
thousands of feet high. Since it was popularly credited with
directly causing the death of the sheep, goats, kids and lambs,
which undoubtedly form its main food, it earned the title of Lam-
mergeyer = lamb-vulture, and it is this name which is still
applied to it by the majority of people. Those who advocate the
other name maintain that the great bird is vulturine in its habits,
ze., never kills the beasts it feeds upon but simply resorts
to the carcasses of those which have fallen from the cliffs or
which have died of injuries or starvation due to their having
been imprisoned in some spot whence escape was impossible.
They also declare that the structure of the bird’s foot does not
lend itself to carrying its prey for any distance, but of this I shall
speak later. The late Dr. Stark, who to my knowledge had
exceptional opportunities of watching these birds in Europe, boldly
asserted that in habits and feeding they were little better than
the Egyptian Vulture, a cruel charge against such a noble-looking
bird but of which the truth is I fear incontrovertible.

The opponents of the name Bearded Vulture pointed out how
the bird was not a true Vulture and cited various points such as
its well-feathered head and legs. The other school retorted by
calling attention to the distinctly vulturine beak, and to the foot
which approaches much nearer that of the Vulture with its long
central toe and blunter claws thaa the Eagle’s, and further justified
the descriptive accuracy of their name in that the bird has a beard
consisting of a tuft of black bristly feathers below its beak, ever
most conspicuous, and argued that since its general appearance,

Lammergeyer or ‘Golden Eagle” 409

flight and many of its habits are distinctly vulturine, it merited
the name of the Bearded Vulture.

In the Himalayas, where it resides, it is well-known to many
sportsmen either as the Lammergeyer or the “Golden Eagle”
from its rich rufous colouring. It is probably owing to this that
the name of Limmergeyer has taken such a hold in our language
since the vast majority of those among us who have seen it in a
wild state are Anglo-Indians.

The late Professor Newton, one of the most learned (and
shall I venture to add cautious?) of ornithologists looked on the
matter as one which could only be solved by an investigation of
‘characters which are not superficial.” Since my own field obser-
vations and experiences are mainly in accord with those who style
the bird the Bearded Vulture, I have adopted that name and
especially so, that all those who in recent years have had
opportunities of watching these grand birds in their fastnesses
are agreed as to the convenience of the term. Colonel Irby
thus styles it in his ‘Ornithology of the Straits,” as did Lord
Lilford and Dr. Stark. The latter's experiences were extensive
and unique as I have said.

On the other hand, I have not met with any modern naturalist
or observer who can adduce any direct evidence to justify the older
name of Lammergeyer save that at the lambing season these birds
like the Neophrons are frequently to be seen near the flocks of
goats and mountain sheep for reasons given by Dr. Stark and
quoted by Colonel Irby. After watching these powerful birds
carrying the weighty limb of an animal in mid-air, the idea has more
than once struck me that the old tale of Golden Eagles carrying
off children may without any very great stretch of imagination find
their origin in tne misdeeds of the Bearded Vulture. The mere
term of Golden Eagle is suggestive of the likelihood of some
confusion having existed between the two species. Thus, the

410 The Bearded Vulture

Bearded Vulture is very richly coloured ; in brilliant sunlight the
bright tawny throat and underparts assume a veritable golden hue,
far more so than do the pale tawny feathers on the nape of the
Golden Eagle whence the latter derives its somewhat imaginative
name. This golden colour of the Bearded Vulture is well-known
to all the goatherds and mountain-dwellers in Spain, who invariably
describe the birds as colorado, ‘‘ reddish” in contra-distinction to the
Griffon Vulture of fulvous appearance. As already mentioned,
many Anglo-English sportsmen style the bird Golden Eagle and
the famous traveller James Bruce, who met with it in the highest
mountain north of Gondar in Abyssinia so far back as 1770 and
figured it in his book published in 1790, did the same. It there-
fore seems likely enough that the inhabitants of the mountainous
districts of mid-Europe may have likewise described the big bird
of prey which was credited with sinister intentions on their infants
as a Golden Eagle.

My first introduction to Bearded Vultures was of a very formal
nature and led to nothing. A pair frequented some high hills a
day's journey from Gibraltar and annually nested in a cavern in a
low cliff at the top of a steep acclivity. I was in those days
unaware of their very early nesting habits and in consequence
never sought for the nest at the proper time of year.

This pair have long since left the locality. Ten years passed
before I once again came across them, in a big sierra some ten
miles west of the first site. Here they nested undisturbed for some
years using two alternative sites, one in a small cavern only a few
hundred feet above a goatherd’s house and the other in a cavern
very nearly the same in shape several hundred feet higher up the
cliffs. Photographs of both these sites appear in Colonel Irby’s
book. It is over twelve years since they in turn abandoned this
range of hills and went off without leaving an address.

The Bearded Vulture is, as I have said, a very early nester. |

A Very Early Nester Ait

have heard of eggs being taken in Christmas week. Dr. Stark
took perfectly fresh eggs on 31 January and on another occasion
eggs on the point of hatching on 4 February. The mildness or
the reverse of the season and the altitude of the nest above the sea
have apparently nothing to do with the variations in time of laying,
despite the protestations of the goatherds who are ever emphatic
on these two points. No better proof of this could be adduced
than Dr. Stark’s experiences, for, when he took the freshly-laid
eggs on 31 January it was in a very mild season when the snow-
line was fully 1,000 feet higher up the sierra than when he found
the hard-set eggs in the same locality on 4 February—in an
exceptionally severe spring.

When I was with Crown Prince Rudolf in the A/7vamar, he had
with him two young Bearded Vultures, one just emerging from the
down stage and a second three-parts grown, taken from nests in the
Sierra Nevada. One of these birds was a full month if not six
weeks older than the other, showing the irregularity of their dates
of laying. From all I have seen and heard [| think from 1 January
to 15 February may be taken as about their usual period for laying
eggs.

In all my wanderings after wild birds there was no species which
so persistently defeated me in my object of obtaining its eggs or of
photographing its nest and young than did the Bearded Vulture.
Year followed year and although every season | managed to locate
a few pairs at widely separated places, all my exertions were doomed
to failure. Thus, one year I would find myself too early and
another year too late. Some years owing to bad weather and the
impossibility of travelling in the sierra in rain and mist, let alone
climbing dangerous cliffs, a well-organized expedition would end in
total failure and ignominious retreat.

True, had I on such occasions elected to remain out in my
mountain quarters a few days longer, | should undoubtedly have

A412 The Bearded Vulture

accomplished my object. But here the human factor intervened
for my companions were invariably officers of the Navy or Army
or Civil officials whose leave of absence was restricted to a few
days. As this account will show, the Bearded Vulture’s nests
which I had marked down for spoliation were situated in places
which demanded a degree of both skill and nerve on the part of
those who handled the ropes, which, with no aspersion on the
genuine pluck of my excellent friends among the inhabitants, they
lack and with good reason. For they do not understand rope-work
and they are in consequence unduly apprehensive of the dangers
attending it and hence by no means inspire the confidence in the
man on the rope which is so essential to avoid disaster.

When on the wing, the Bearded Vulture is easily recognizable
from the Griffon Vulture by its long cuneate-shaped tail which is
full six inches longer than that of the Griffon and looks even more
so when the two birds are flying high overhead.

The Griffon when soaring, habitually keeps its wings widely
extended, the carpus and metacarpus forming a slightly re-entrant
angle, the sharp pointed head drawn back into the encircling ruff
appearing as if set in the apex of a very obtuse V formed by the
extended wings. The primaries are all widely separated at the
tips and for over a third of their length and can be counted at
a great distance whilst the short square tail gives to the eye
the impression that the wings are set on very far back in the
body.

On the other hand, the Bearded Vulture when on the wing
in quest of food, although at times it emulates the Griffon in
its wide circles, when its primaries are similarly separated, has
much more the appearance of the Eagle in its flight. As it
glides along there is often a perceptible salient angle formed
by the carpus and metacarpus, which increases greatly as the
bird makes one of the wonderful dives which are so charac-

Means of Identifying on the Wing 413

teristic of its flight. What strikes one most about the flight of the
Bearded Vulture is its marvellous ease and the apparent absence of
all effort which distinguishes it from that of the true Vultures and
which makes it in my opinion even more graceful than the Golden
Eagle’s. For it is unusual to see a Bearded Vulture indulge in
the heavy flapping flight which both Eagles and Vultures at time
resort to. Iam not alone in my views on the subject, for Dr. Stark

who had watched many pairs was equally struck with its grace and

seemingly effortless power.

But although the characteristics of a Bearded Vulture on the
wing are so marked as to render its indentification an easy matter
with the aid of a glass at very great distances, years may pass before
the wanderer in the wild country it inhabits may have the good
fortune to see it close enough to appreciate its splendid appearance
and colouring. Of course where a nest with eggs or young can be
located, it is a simple matter to conceal oneself near enough to
watch the birds at close range. But it is not everybody who has
such an opportunity and in my own case it was ten years before
I had the good fortune to see this truly magnificent bird at close
quarters. The meeting was dramatic in its suddenness.

I was wandering about a low sierra in quest of nests and
carried a gun, according to my usual custom at that time when
on a solitary expedition. It was a glorious day in early spring
and when I arrived at the summit, a great piled-up mass of sand-
stone crags, I set myself to watch and wait on events. The sun
was extremely powerful and I was glad to find a shady nook only
a few feet below the top of the pinnacle rock forming the highest
point of the mountain. A great plain lay at my feet extending
for many square miles westward and northward, dotted with count-
less herds of brood mares and cattle and droves of pigs. Over
this both Griffons and Neophrons were sailing in graceful circles,
ever on the look out for food. Here I sat, telescope in hand, from

AT4 The Bearded Vulture

time to time scanning a sierra beyond the plain which I suspected
to be the home of a pair of Black Vultures. How long I sat
there I do not remember but as I swept my glass across the
distant hills to my front I chanced to pick up a big bird flying
towards me. It was still over a mile, possibly two miles distant,
but a second glance showed me it was a Bearded Vulture winging
its way straight at me. Dropping my glass I gripped my gun
which lay across my knees and glanced round for some shelter
from view. Seeing none near at hand and realizing that any
movement on my part might be fatal, I resolved to remain motion-
less where I was. On came the great bird, obviously unaware of
my presence. Doubtless my stained shooting clothes assimilated
with the weather-beaten rocks I was leaning against and, by bow-
ing my head, my sombrero hid that greatest foe to all successful
sport, especially Bustard-driving, or attempts at concealment in war
or peace, the red face of a British soldier.

The Bearded Vulture was now within 50 yards of me, in
another instant he would be assuredly mine and at that time, be it
remembered, | was most anxious to kill one! Now for the first
time in my life did I realize what an extraordinarily handsome
bird it is, the fierce-looking head with silvered crown and black
‘“moustaches,” as well as the bristly black beard, contrasting with
the rich red throat and breast, as with sweeping black pinions it
came right at me. It was quite clear it was making for the crag
only a few feet above my head as a point of vantage whence to
survey the surrounding country. I had by chance already selected
the same ‘ look-out” and for similar reasons.

When the great bird was within 20 yards I sprang up and
raised my gun. I shall never forget the savage look of its pale
orange eyes, with the encircling blood-red membrane, as it suddenly
checked its flight and, swinging round with a rush of wings
resembling the noise produced by a steam jet, whirled away.

A Dramatic Meeting 415

I did not fire! Somehow, it seemed to be almost murder to
take that splendid life, and although my finger was on the trigger
and the bird covered at less than 25 yards, after it had turned, I
refrained. I have never regretted my self-control on this occasion,
but what is perhaps more curious, since that day I have repeatedly
had Bearded Vultures which were nesting within easy shot and |
have, so far, never fired at one. I sometimes think that before |
migrate myself, I may be led to slaughter just one, as something to
keep me in mind, when I am no longer able to visit their haunts,
of these truly glorious birds. But so far I have resisted the
temptation.

From time to time in my wanderings I have come across many
Bearded Vultures but never have I seen one again at such close
quarters.

In the spring of 1902 I was living in the mountains between
Malaga and Estepona and one day made an expedition to a
distant cliff over which I had seen a Bearded Vulture flying on
the previous day. 1 found a very fine cavern tenanted by
Griffon Vultures, and as the country looked promising and I knew
there were Bearded Vultures about, I decided to wait and watch.
Some time afterwards a Bearded Vulture came into sight and
commenced to play around above a cliff not far from my _ position.
It was evidently not nesting there and from its movements I
suspected and still suspect that the cave tenanted by the Griffon
was one of its alternative sites. Subsequent events gave
strength to my views, for presently the old female Griffon, not
approving of our prolonged stay on the terrace below her nest,
after standing up in her cavern and craning her neck over the
brink to take stock of us, dropped off the ledge she was on and
flapped away.

As she rounded the cliff above which the Bearded Vulture
was soaring, the latter made for her and mobbed her. The

416 The Bearded Vulture

Griffon was evidently in mortal fear and endeavoured to avoid
the meeting with its formidable relative. Next moment the
Bearded Vulture, having swooped upwards above the Griffon,
turned and struck her vigorously; the two huge birds became
interlocked and, losing their equilibrium, fell vertically at least
100 feet.

BEARDED VULTURE SOARING AROUND SUMMIT OF CRAG,

It was a marvellous sight for a bird-lover. I had my camera
in hand at the moment as I had been trying to take the Griffon
standing in her nest and, swinging it round, tried to take a snap
at the two great birds before they separated, but failed. The
Griffon made off at speed and hardly shows in the photograph
but the Bearded Vulture below it is, despite its minute size,
recognizable as such owing to its length of tail.

First Expedition, 1906 417

I subsequently watched it wing its way across a great valley,
over a thousand feet deep, to some crags on the opposite side
where | have little doubt it was nesting. But at the time I was
too crippled to follow it up and thus lost one of the chances of
my life.

My final success after protracted efforts to obtain the eggs and
photograph the nest of the Bearded Vulture is one of the most
memorable epochs in my life, necessitating as it did five separate
expeditions to a remote spot in three successive years and, what
is more to the point, very nearly involving me in disaster on three
of these.

It was in the spring of 1906 that after four years persistent
search and many expeditions, during which I repeatedly located
Bearded Vultures and visited various nesting places without result,
that at last it seemed as if success lay within my grasp. A pair
were known to nest in a certain big cliff only two days journey
from civilization and accordingly I arranged for a four days trip
and enlisted the services of three friends as assistants.

One of the greatest difficulties to be faced in expeditions into
the higher ranges of the sierra is the vicissitudes of weather. It
may often happen, especially during the winter months, that at
the time those living near the sea level or a few hundreds of feet
above it are enjoying splendid weather, the sierras may _ be
shrouded in dense cloud-banks, making all bird watching an
absolute impossibility. Further, heavy rainstorms may serve to
fill the gullies with raging torrents and make all travel equally
out of the question. Such has been my fate repeatedly.

At the first attempt on the Bearded Vulture’s cliff we were
favoured by fairly good weather, as regards the absence of fog
and rain, but we came in for a desperately cold snap and suffered
accordingly. On the second day of our journey we arrived at our
objective a good hour before midday and halted for luncheon. Very

418 The Bearded Vulture

soon we saw first one and then the other of the Bearded Vultures
sailing over the cliffs and shortly marked one of them enter a
cavern about 250 feet above our position. With the aid of a glass
it was easy to make out the huge nest and, as we watched the
old bird moving about in it, we felt sure of our prey.

I, however, determined not to be hurried by my companions and
having gained a suitable point immediately below the nest, I made
a very careful reconnaissance of the place and with the following
results. The hill before us consisted of a series of cliffs divided
by steeply sloping terraces.’ I may mention that the heights here
given were ascertained subsequently by aneroid and the known
length of the ropes employed, and, as is almost invariably the
case, were found to be greatly in excess of our first estimate. It
is one of those curious facts in dealing with heights that whereas
those totally unacquainted with them invariably over-estimate them,
men most accustomed to cliff climbing generally under-rate them.
Thus in the present instance we estimated the cavern to be only
200 ft. above us; the mean of four subsequent observations by
aneroid proved it to be over 250 ft.

Between us and the great cliff lay, at an angle of about 45
degrees, a talus of shattered limestone which had obviously fallen
from the heights above and issued from a huge rift or chasm some
roo yards on our right. This talus was about 150 ft. in height at the
point it emerged. Immediately in front of us was a vertical cliff of
the same height, with a very steeply sloping terrace along the top,
evidently accessible from the talus. Upon this terrace were sundry
detached crags and then came a second cliff about 150 ft. in height.
It was in this cliff that the cavern containing the nest was situated,
less than 60 ft. above the terrace. To reach it seemed absurdly

1 See General View of Cliff at end of book.

Description of Cliff 419

simple for it was clearly possible to escalade the cliff immediately
below it for some way.

My friends, as were our Spanish attendants, were enthusiastic
and wanted to get to work at once. But I, taught by many bitter
defeats, before committing myself to attempting to climb from
below, reconnoitred with my glass to see if the nest could be
reached from above. Sure enough there was a fairly defined ledge
or terrace rather over So ft. above the Vulture’s cavern, easily
recognizable by an uptilted pinnacle rock about 4 ft. high which
we elected to style the ‘petrified artichoke,” from its similarity to
that vegetable.

If we could only get to this spot, all would be well for us.
But here came the rub, for above the ‘‘artichoke”’ were a series
of low cliffs 20 to 4o ft. in height interspersed with steeply sloping
narrow terraces, mounting one upon another like steps and gradu-
ally losing themselves in the heights over 500 ft. above us
amid the drifting clouds which eddied about the crest of the
mountain.

It was not an encouraging prospect; for an hour past we had
been above the snowline and although the snow was of no depth
save in the drifts, the cold was intense. Wherever the sun had
thawed the snow on previous days, there was now a coating of
ice; hence climbing was peculiarly dangerous.

We however decided to attempt in the first instance to reach
the nest from below and, having shouldered our ropes, made our
way painfully up the great talus. Arrived at the terrace, we
sidled along it and after a tough scramble through the detached
pinnacle rocks already alluded to found ourselves immediately below
the nest.

And how easy it looked! Various fissures and joints, over-
grown with tufts of mosses, saxafrage, heath and scrub made
it possible at a point only a few yards to the right of the nest

420 The Bearded Vulture

to climb some 20 to 25 of the feet of the 50 to 60 which
separated us from our much coveted objective.

Among my party I happily numbered my old ally, Admiral
Arthur Farquhar, a good climber and, needless to say, with a
thorough knowledge of ropes. Two of our Spaniards were ex-
goatherds and reckoned as good climbers.

It did not require more than a glance to see that the Bearded
Vultures had selected this seemingly low-placed cavern, simply
because it was totally inaccessible from below and so I at once
started off to see if it were possible to work round the left
flank of the cliff (facing it) and gain the “artichoke.” Mean-
while my companions, more especially the two ex-goatherds,
indulged in fruitless gymnastic efforts about twenty feet up the
cliff.

At first I made good way and, stopping for breath, was shortly
joined by Farquhar who had remained behind to see what the
goatherds could do. We worked our way amid smooth rocks and
across steeply sloping grassy terraces, alike slippery with ice.
It was most unpleasant and soon the soles of our adpargatas,
which had got wet amid the rank herbage below the cliff,
began to freeze! A rope-soled shoe frozen hard is about as nasty
a thing to climb rocks with as can well be imagined. It soon
became evident that although we could reach easily the same level
as our ‘“‘artichoke,” we had against us the geological fact that the
portion of the hill we were on, by reason of the trend of the
strata, made it impossible to cross over to our desired point.
For separating us from it was a series of low tiers of rocks and
terraces which, whilst enabling us to work upwards, ever led us
away from our point. Returning to our party below the nest we
found them in the lowest depth of despair and half-frozen. It
was not difficult to see that they had come to the conclusion that
the nest was unassailable, so leaving them huddled round a fire

A Forlorn Hope 421

they had kindled, I started off alone on a forlorn hope to try to
find a way to the top of the cliff.

Arrived at the point where the talus emerged from the chasm,
I commenced a most painful and laborious ascent. At places the
loose débris was on the run and it became necessary to escalade
the face of the cliff on one side or the other of it, so as to avoid
setting it in motion. I was further most terribly handicapped
by my injuries which affected my heart to such an extent that
I had constantly to lie down and gasp for breath. At last I
found myself on a level grass patch close to the summit and over
,

500 ft. above our starting point. After a rest, I climbed over the

;
f=)
brow and looked down towards where the nest lay. But owing
to the general convexity of the slope of the hill it was impossible
to see more than 20 or 30 yards in front.

It was bitterly cold, a piercing wind swept the sierra and the
damp clouds scudded past below me, for I was nigh 4,400 ft. above
sea-level. The rocks were at places coated in ice whilst half-
frozen mud and water oozed from the interstices between, the whole
being powdered with snow which lay thick in the gullies. All
seemed so deterring and hopeless that I almost felt inclined to
abandon the project but then I recalled how the nest must surely
contain eggs and how I longed for some for my collection, not
to speak of the photographs I would get! So I hardened my heart
and crept cautiously down the slippery slopes holding on to rocks
from time to time until I had descended over 7o ft. The crags
now became much steeper and it was clear that under existing
conditions of ice and snow it was foolish to go further without
a life-line. Working cautiously upwards to my right flank |
reached the edge of the precipice forming one side of the chasm
up which I had scrambled and, looking over, saw the rest of my
party on the talus 300 ft. below me. Hailing them I asked
them to come up and bring the ropes, saying that I felt sure we

422 The Bearded Vulture

could reach the nest from where I was. Half an hour later they
joined me bringing with them my three ropes, namely 100 ft.
each of 2 in. and 1} in. and 75 ft. of 14 in. Alpine rope. Time
pressed and the cold was so intense that it was useless to think
of attempting to join our ropes together by long-splicing them
and so we decided to join them by knotting. I adjusted my
canvas sling and, making myself fast to the 15 in. rope, started
away down the cliff.

The first portion of the descent was simple enough, usually
down steep grass-grown gullies alternating with low cliffs of
20 to 30 ft. The general conformation of the mountain was of
stratified limestone uptilted almost vertically and presenting the
edge of the stratum to the face of the cliff. As a rule, it was
easy enough, with the aid of a rope, to drop over these steep
places, usually through some narrow gully choked with fractured
rocks between the uptilted strata.

After descending about 120 ft. in this manner I came to a fairly
safe terrace whence some 20 ft. below me | could see our land-mark,
the ‘petrified artichoke.” In a few minutes 1 was down along-
side of it. Here I had a good look round and was surprised to
note the great height I was at, for although now only some
350 ft. above our mules below, the valley we had ascended in
the morning fell steeply to a small Moorish village nigh 2,000 ft.
below and the view to my front was in consequence most exten-
sive, despite the drifting clouds about the higher peaks. 1 now
endeavoured to find a way round the cliff immediately below me
and got down some 30 ft. or so to my left (facing the cliff) only
to find the ledge I was on merged into the cliff. My climb was
not a waste of time for it showed me that there was only one
possible way to get at the nest and that was to go over the edge
of a rather beetling crag a few feet to the left of the artichoke.
So I retraced my way up to the ledge 20 ft. above it and there

A Nasty Descent and a Jambed Rope 423

found to my surprise Farquhar. He told me that having seen the
last join (at about 160 ft.) through the hands of the lowering
party, he had come down to bear a hand. I was very glad that
he had done so for, in addition to having his moral support, he
served as a very necessary connecting link between me and _ the
lowering party and further was able to see how my ropes lay
and give them a fair lead when they required it. Leaving him
to tend the ropes over the last cliff I descended again to the
“artichoke” and dropped over the edge. Att first the rock, although
nearly vertical, gave me some handhold, 30 ft. below was a very
small rocky bluff with some herbage on it, upon reaching which
I signalled “Hold hard” and looked over. What I saw was
encouraging for about 100 ft. below me I espied the outer edge of
the terrace whence we had vainly endeavoured to reach the nest
from below, and I could even identify the spot opposite where we
had striven to climb up. The cliff overhung a little and it was
quite clear the nest was not more than 50 ft. immediately
below me.

Leading my line over a smooth part of the rock and signalling
‘ Lower-away,” down I went. As I descended I grabbed at the
rocks to steady myself, but they were covered with great masses
of brilliant green saxifrage coated with half-melted snow which
came away in my half-frozen hands like big sponges, whilst icicles
hung from every projecting crag and added to my discomfort.

In all such descents the great art, when once the cragsman
has decided on action and the die is cast, is to get over the
awkward spots as soon as possible. I had impressed this on my
party before starting down. I went down, my rope running out
merrily, far too merrily to please me, owing to the want of skill of
my lowering party, which was of course beyond the control of
Farquhar at his precarious half-way house. Suddenly the rope
checked and I was brought up with a jerk that sent me swinging

A424 The Bearded Vulture

out in a most objectionable manner. It was an awkward moment,
as I was in mid-air and with only just enough touch of the cliff
to stop myself from revolving. I quickly gave two blasts on my
whistle ; ‘“‘ Lower away” but got no response. Then I tried three
blasts, ‘‘ Haul-up” with as little effect. It was quite clear that
something was wrong !

Only those who have gone through similar troublous times
can appreciate what this means to a man who has got to look
out for himself. The nearest approach I know to the feelings I
then experienced is when things go amiss in a balloon and_ the
question arises, what is to be done next ?

It did not take long for me to realize that ¢he rope above me had
jambed. | looked down and the prospect was not cheering for I was
hanging plumb over a peculiarly hard-looking mass of rock, some
70 ft. to 75 ft. below. I looked up to see if I could, as in former
days, swarm up the rope to the top of the cliff and then remem-
bered that my disabled left shoulder and other injuries effectually
barred such a feat of gymnastics. So I waited and began to think
it out. Suddenly, I felt a sharp jerk and I shot down for a few
feet, swinging about helplessly. Whistle in mouth I sounded shrilly
“Lower away” and away I went! Less than 15 ft. more lower
down I suddenly found myself opposite the Bearded Vulture's
cavern and clutching at the rocks drew myself in and felt my feet
strike a soft substance. Next moment I was clinging to the nest.
I looked in. /¢ was enipty /

What my feelings were, it is perfectly impossible for me to
describe, as with difficulty I dragged myself in and took stock of
my position. I was in a low cave about 5 ft. long, 2 ft. to 3 ft.
high and 4 ft. in depth. The nest was a huge affair, built of big
boughs, filling up the whole cavern, with a cup-shaped depression
24 in. across, lined with great lumps of black sheepswool, brown

goatshair and fresh green mosses. Evidently the bird had not

A Bitter Disappointment 425

yet laid and yet it was the last week in March and I knew well
that they usualiy laid early in January! It required little skill to
recognize that the nest was perfectly new and unused and that
the old birds fully hoped to use it very soon. Also it had most
assuredly not been robbed, for there were no traces of a former
descent through the masses of saxifrage and numerous rock-growing
plants and shrubs I had passed on my way down. Anyway, there
was nothing now to be done save to get out of the place as soon
as I could, for I felt anxious about my lowering party up in the
snows and bitter cold above me.

And now came a supreme moment. Was it possible for me to
return the way I had come? Obviously the rope had jambed and
jambed badly and if this had occurred when being lowered what
might not happen when being hauled up? A bad jamb on such
occasions may lead to a rope parting. It is entirely a question of the
strength of those who are hauling on it. Looking down, I saw it
was less than 60 ft. to the terrace below, and so I decided to go on.
After a whistle to warn those above, | gave the two blasts and
putting all my weight on the rope slid off the nest. Next moment |
felt the rope “rendering” and down I went, now swinging in mid-air.
All went well until | was within 15 ft. of the ledge below and then
once again I was suddenly checked. In vain did I whistle ‘* Lower
away.” Could the rope be jambed again? Looking up, I felt it
could not be, since the knot next above me was over the cliff-edge
and I knew well that my old comrade would see that the one above
him was all clear. The rope now gave up for a few feet and once
again stopped. It quickly dawned on me that there must be xo
more rope /

It was a time for quick decision, glancing down, I saw that |
was within 10 or 12 ft. of the rocks below. I knew that there was
5 or 6 ft. to spare of the rope securing the sling over my shoulder,
for I had overhauled it myself before making it fast. So hardening

426 The Bearded Vulture

my heart | unbent the portion round my shoulder and proceeded
gingerly to ease up the two half hitches which secured it to the
canvas sling in which I was suspended, paying out the line through
the thimbles on the sling as I slipped downwards. Arrived at the
last few inches, I found my feet were still over 6 ft. from the
ground, but there was no help for it and | let all go and dropped,
landing amid the rocks and scrub shaken and exhausted but
unhurt. But all the same it was a very near calculation! I now
whistled to ‘Haul up” and as | saw the free end of my 13-in.
rope curling about as it went out of view high overhead, | congratu-
iated myself on my escape from a most awkward position.

I subsequently heard that the lowering party who, by the way,
had nearly perished of cold in their airy situation, were greatly
alarmed at suddenly finding themselves hauling up a loose rope,
since they had no idea of where | had got to and imagined untold
horrors.

Before closing this painful story of failure and defeat I must
explain when and where my rope jambed and how it came about
that | was able to get out of my fix so well. After I left Farquhar
on the terrace above the “artichoke” crag he had acted as fugle-
man, receiving my whistles and signalling on their purport to the
lowering party perched high above him. As he paid out the rope
after I disappeared from his view over the ‘‘artichoke”’ cliff, the
knot joining the 13-in. and 1$-in. rope passed him in due course.
It was whilst he was “handing” me down the vertical cliff that
the rope in running over the edge bit in deeply between the uptilted
strata near the “artichoke” and the miserable knot jambed! At
the moment I was rather over 60 ft. below this point and Farquhar
was over 20 ft. above it. Luckily, realizing the grave danger, he
at once came down the intervening cliff on the rope, hand-over-
hand, and reaching the extreme edge managed somehow to lift
the knot clear. This was the jerk I felt!

The Story of the Jamb 427

I will not say all | think of the episode beyond that | could
wish my worst enemy no better diversion than to be in the pre-
dicament I was, with no trusty naval officer to get him out of it
The person who invented the expression ‘‘ between the devil and
the deep sea” had obviously never been over a bad cliff on a rope
that jambed.

From the terrace | made my way down to the mules and found
the avrzero had lit a huge fire of lentiscus bushes where I was very
glad to dry my wet clothes and get into my boots. Half an hour
later I was joined by the cliff-party and had to break to them the
doleful news of my utter discomfiture.

Since everything pointed to the Bearded Vulture having the
intention to lay in this nest before many days, I decided to
revisit it about a fortnight later, by which time I reckoned that
the eggs would surely be laid. I came to this conclusion against
all my knowledge and experience of the nesting of the Bearded
Vulture since it was already two if not three months after their
usual time for laying. But | was tempted to set aside all previous
records by the fact that the birds were without doubt building a
new nest and that probably their first laying had been destroyed by
some accident or had been taken from some other site. I had
further an excellent precedent in the case of an Osprey’s nest in
which fresh eggs were laid in the month of May, at least two
months after the usual time and probably for the same reason,

So it came about that 8 April found me once more at the
head of a forlorn hope pushing through the mountains for the
Vulture’s cliff. This time we carried with us a coil of 300 ft. of
2-in. rope, for I had had enough of joining ropes. As I was
determined to make absolutely certain this time before I embarked
on the laborious task of escalading the cliff, on our arrival opposite
to it, I sent the mules away and lay up with my telescope to watch

the old birds. Soon, one and then the other came into view flying

428 The Bearded Vulture

high overhead, at times dipping down and flying past the cliff At
the end of an hour, one of them suddenly appeared carrying in its
beak (zo¢ in its feet) a big black mass which looked like a portion
of a black lamb and flew straight into a cliff about 1oo yds. from
the nest I had descended to. Turning my glass on the spot, I
saw to my astonishment a second huge nest which I had not
observed on my first visit, doubtless because all my energies were
concentrated on the birds and the nest they were then building.

I instantly made up my mind that this new nest contained
young and that on the occasion of our first visit I had gone to
the wrong nest! So thought my companions and yet we had
watched the birds flying in and out of the first nest and they had
never shown any inclination to visit the second.

My suspicions were strengthened by watching the great bird
standing on the edge of the nest and judging from her movements
and attitude apparently engaged in feeding her young. Presently
she entered the nest and disappeared from view. Sitting no doubt
on her young, said we. Some minutes later she rose and thrust
her head out of the cavern and we could see clearly the fierce eye
and the brilliant colouring of head and throat. Then she took
wing and sailed away.

Soon the other old bird returned and glided uneasily across
the face of the cliff, evidently alarmed at our presence near its
sanctuary,

There was no necessity to watch any longer for there was
nothing more we could learn of the contents of the nest save
by actual inspection.

And now as to the position of the new nest. It was in a small
cavern apparently almost identical in size and shape with the first
nest and in an almost exactly similar situation but apparently
more accessible. From the point where the talus issued from the

chasm ran two terraces, the first, the main terrace, was the one we

The Climb to Nest No. 2 429

had traversed on our former visit, while the second, which was
much smaller, in fact, a mere sloping ledge, inclined sharply
upwards for about 60 ft. to a point about 30 ft. below the new
nest which for convenience of reference I will call Nest No. 2.
The cliff in which was the nest though small was overhung and
clearly unscaleable from below.

About 130 ft. above the nest were some serrated tooth-like caps
above a steeply sloping terrace and it was quite evident that it would
be possible to be lowered from this spot, assuming it to be accessible.
Here lay our difficulty, for above it was a big cliff another hundred
feet in height at least and other cliffs again above that. To effect
a descent from such a height would have meant hours of work
and it was even doubtful whether the 300 ft. of rope we had
with us would have been sufficient. Our hopes lay in being able
to escalade the sheer cliff forming one side of the chasm and thus
gain the tooth-like crags above the nest by a short cut. We
therefore started up the big talus and when about 170 ft. up it,
leaving the bed of the chasm, climbed the cliff on our right (the
side farthest from the nest), until we gained a point on a level with
the nest which was now not 4o yards from us.

I found by aneroid that it was about 260 ft. above our starting
point and in consequence about 1o ft. higher than the first nest.
Returning to the gloomy chasm, we scrambled up it for another
hundred feet and then halted whilst I sent on our two ex-goat-
herds to reconnoitre up the cliff and try to find a possible route.
This they did admirably and soon we were assembled at a point
360 ft. up the cliff and (as | know by aneroid) only about too ft.
above the nest.

But we were in a most awkward and dangerous position; |
have already described the up-tilted strata forming the mountain
at this point. We now found ourselves standing on fractured
and worn rocks sloping at an angle of 45 degrees to the edge of

430 The Bearded Vulture

the Vulture’s cliff below us, On one side of us lay about 100 feet
of precipitous crags which we had escaladed by using the stratified
ledges as steps, whilst on the other a wall of rock barred our
further progress.

Between the strata was moist earth and a profusion of herbage,
mixed with loose slabs of rock broken from the main stratum by
the action of the sun and frost. Amongst these we managed to
find a footing and, securing myself in a bowline, I crept cautiously
to the edge of the cliff to the music of the clattering of the loose
soil and rocks which became detached as I did so. Peering over
the edge I saw a small shelf not qo ft. below me with an olive
tree growing on its extreme point. This tree I knew to be exactly
over the nest and I also knew that the rock it grew on was an
overhanging one. To the left of the tree (facing the cliff) was a
convenient grass-grown eully, sloping steeply, with serrated rocks
cropping out in parallel lines. This offered the safest line of descent
and a possible means of getting round the over-hanging rock.

Returning to my comrades, I gave out the ‘special idea.”
As the place was peculiarly dangerous, I decided to use two ropes.
So making fast the centre of our 300 ft. coil to a convenient
crag and throwing the end of the spare coil over the cliff I adjusted
my sling and rope and dropped over the edge. Hardly had I
done so, when portions of the surface of the rock above me began
to crumble and move! | was prepared for this and with the
aid of the life-line was quickly hauled back and proceeded to
dislodge the loose rocks. A regular avalanche of rock and rich
black earth resulted. When all seemed clear, | was lowered foot
by foot, clearing away all loose rocks as I proceeded. To guard
in a small way against falling stones, | had filled my sombrero
with short heather branches before starting and it was lucky | did
so for from time to time the rope detached small fragments of
rocks from above.

A Scientific Lower 431

But I was now met by another trouble, the rope as my weight
got on it cut its way deeply into the narrow fissures between the
strata and not only loosened more stones but threatened to jamb.
At last I reached the edge of my sloping gully, it was only 60 ft.
from my party above but every foot had been a source of anxiety
to all of us.

The cliff now became vertical and I went over and soon found
myself on a level with the big nest and some to ft. to the left of
it. It was impossible to get nearer as I was wholly dependent on
the rope. Above the nest was the overhanging rock and there
seemed just a possibility of my being able to swing in under it, if
I could get my life-line led from directly above. Accordingly I was
hauled up once again and made my way to the olive tree. Haul-
ing up my life-line I rove it over the bole of the tree and dropped
it down the cliff. Then catching hold of it, I signalled ‘ Lower
away’ and went down as before with my weight on the rope on my
body but keeping a strain on the line over the olive tree. By this
means I gradually hauled myself in towards the nest and succeeded
in grabbing a projecting rock at the entrance to the cavern and
swinging myself in. Judge my astonishment, disappointment and
dismay at once again finding the nest empty /

It was exactly the same as the first nest, a huge mass of
sticks with a deep soft lining of lambswool and goatshair. A big
lump of black lambswool lay in the middle of it, the mysterious
article which I had seen from afar the Vulture carry to its nest.

Why these birds thus repaired and re-lined a second nest at
this season | shall never know, for I could not pay them another
visit. One would have imagined that my cup of bitterness and
disappointment was about filled but such was not to be. At least
I would take a photograph of the cavern and the immense nest.
To do so, I wanted more rope to enable me to crawl in and get
to a favourable point and so signalled up to ‘“ Lower away” but

432 The Bearded Vulture

got no response. Repeated whistles had no effect and I heard
indistinct shouts in reply, so knew that something was wrong and
that once again the rope was jambed. Was there to be no end
to my ill-luck ?

Suddenly I bethought me that probably in hauling myself
towards the nest on the life-line I had given the lowering line a
“foul lead” through one of the narrow fissures between the
vertical strata and had thus jambed it. So it was. Therefore,
giving a shrill blast ‘“‘ Hold hard,” I eased up the life-line and
swung back on the other rope and as it took my full weight |
felt it give up and I knew that it had cleared itself. Looking
down I saw my life-line was touching the ledge about 30 ft. below
and so | signalled “lower” and after doing tee-totum for a few
yards, due to the overhanging cliff, landed upon the ledge in
safety. Thence I made my way down to the talus and on to
the mules below, where we all foregathered with as much fortitude
as we could command.

Happily our troubles and exertions on this day were to a great
extent forgotten owing to other matters of absorbing interest. One
of the greatest attractions in the quest of wild birds in their haunts,
especially in a wild country such as Spain, are the innumerable
possible compensations which from time to time may serve to
assuage one’s wounded feelings and cause one to forget the dis-
appointment of a failure such as I have just described.

It was on the return journey from the second fruitless expedition
to the Bearded Vulture’s cliff that I had the great good fortune to
witness an exhibition of the ways and habits of that bird which
falls to the lot of few.

Most people who have read about birds are well aware that
this species is credited with the habit of carrying the larger bones
of defunct animals high into the air and dropping them on some
rock in order to smash them and thus get at the marrow. Hence

Quebranta-huesos, the Bone-breaker 433

the bird has acquired the name in Spain of Quebranta-huesos,
“bone-smasher” (from esos, a bone, and guebrar, to break).
So familiar is this habit to all those who live in the countries
where the bird is found that I had not intended to inflict my
experiences of the same on the readers of this book, since for
years it has been to me a matter of certainty that the Bearded
Vulture broke bones by dropping them from a height.

Despite the fact that this curious habit has been accepted by
many successive writers, in one of the most recent books on
ornithology, published in 1907 (‘The Fauna of South Africa,”
vol. iv., by W. L. Sclater and A. C. Stark") I was surprised to see
that this habit of bone-breaking is referred to as only a reputed
one. But this was not all, in Allan Hume’s admirable Notes on
Indian Birds, it is described how the Bearded Vulture had been seen
to carry up bones toa height and drop them but that there was no
positive proof that this was done of a set purpose, since the
reporters of the occurrence had not seen the bird complete the
operation by descending to make a meal off the fractured bone.
I make not the smallest doubt but this habit of the Bearded
Vulture has been described by others far more competent than
myself, but as such records are apparently not generally accessible
(in fact I can find none in any library), I venture now to describe
what I actually saw on this eighth day of April 1906.

I may explain that in southern Spain the name of Quedvanta-
huesos is known far and wide to all dwellers in the sierras but that
in the very extensive districts where the Bearded Vulture is rarely
if ever seen, the name is applied to its small relative the Egyptian
Vulture or Neophron. The Neophron however has never been
supposed to break bones, after the manner of the Bearded Vulture.

1 Dr. Stark was killed by a Boer shell during the siege of Ladysmith.
23

434 The Bearded Vulture

Repeatedly during my wanderings have I had pointed out to
me by goatherds and others, sz¢ws, places whither the Quedbranta-
huesos resorted, to carry out his time-honoured practice of bone-
smashing and now and again on visiting such spots have I come
across the dried up and putrid limb of a goat or sheep. But
hitherto I had never actually witnessed the methods adopted by
the birds.

Now as to our experiences; we had sent our mules towards
home down the steep valley which we had followed in our out-
ward voyage in the morning and had taken a line along a great
bluff surmounted by high cliffs on the chance of coming across
something of interest. From time to time we sighted Bearded
Vultures high overhead, six times single birds, and twice a pair,
probably from the nest we had visited.

Presently we saw a single bird sailing around perhaps 2,000
ft. above, carrying some long object, considerably longer than the
long cuneate-tail of the bird. With the telescope I made this out
to be the hind-limb of some large animal. The bird was clutching
it with its vzgh¢t foot just below the fetlock and after watching it
circling aloft for some minutes, I dropped my glass and made a
pencil sketch of what I saw, from which the drawing here given
is copied.

Hardiy had I completed this when the bird let the object go.
I was accompanied by the late Mr. Edward Hunt, the Chief
Engineer of the Algeciras-Bobadilla Railway, and we watched the
object whirling. down for certainly 1,500 ft. until it struck an
horizontal terrace of limestone rock below us, The sharp crash it
made was distinctly audible from our post, some quarter-mile distant
and perhaps 200 ft. above the spot where it struck. Almost
immediately, the Bearded Vulture dived downwards and after one
or two descending sweeps alighted close to the object. With my
telescope I watched it pull the limb about for a few minutes and

WORK.

AT
let

was

BREAKER”

ONE:

seconds

THE

“<

QUEBRANTA-HUESOS,

fall.)

the limb

before

few

Proof Unmistakeable 435

feed off it. Then it seized it, this time with its /e/¢ foot, again just
below the fetlock and took wing. It was at once noticeable that
the limb was much shorter than before, as if the femur had been
torn from off it. I made a second sketch of the bird as it soared
aloft above us, which appears at the end of this chapter.

Soon it lowered its flight and alighted on a crag a few hun-
dred yards from us where it set to work to pick at the limb.
After a time it took wing again this time without the limb but
in place of flying upwards it swept down into a valley about 300 ft.
below the bone-breaking terrace and alighted. With my glass |
watched it walk a few yards up to the carcass of a calf and
commence to tear at it. Soon it was joined by an adult Neo-
phron, the vast dissimilarity in size between the two birds
being most noticeable.

The Neophron did not seem to be alarmed at the presence
of its big relative and between times got in a good many tugs
and mouthfuls of sorts. After a time the Vulture took wing and
sailed off leaving the Neophron in possession. From the terrace
we were working along it was a precipitous descent to the bone-
breaking plateau and to reach it meant retracing our steps for
a mile or more, so I reluctantly left the spot without visiting it.
A goatherd with us assured us that it was one of the favourite
places for the birds to drop bones and I have no doubt he was
right.

The sharp splintering crack made by the impact of the bone
on the rock is an unmistakable sound and I can recall instances
before the occurrences narrated when I have heard it when climb-
ing in the sierra frequented by Bearded Vultures and the men
with me have asserted the cause, which I at the time disbelieved.
Since then I have heard it two or three times but never before
or since have I thus witnessed the three phases of carrying the
bone aloft, dropping it and descending to feed on it,

436 The Bearded Vulture

In nests I have visited I have found fragments of the limbs
of sheep, goats, cows, donkeys and other animals with the frac-
tured and splintered bones of the tibia or femur projecting from
the dried hide covering the lower portion. By no other means
save by a fall could these heavy bones have been thus broken
open, for powerful as is the beak of the Bearded Vulture, it is
not strong enough to shatter such bones.

CHAPTER X.
THE BEARDED VULTURE (continued).

Third Expedition—Defeated by bad weather—Fourth expedition— Watch bird
on nest—Fierce appearance—Ascend cliff and am lowered—An agony of
hopes and fears—Reach the nest—A young Bearded Vulture—Description
of cavern and nest—A Bearded Vulture’s larder—Photographing young bird
—A cramped situation—The attack on the camera—Leave the young bird
and descend—Timid behaviour of parent birds— Fifth expedition—A mar-
vellous panorama—A reduced lowering party—A false lower—Re-ascend—
A depressing moment—‘‘ Now or never’’—Am again lowered—Reach the
nest—At last !—A horribly nasty cavern—An awkward descent—Defective
cartridge-films—A Consolation prize.

BOUT the first week in February in
the year following I once again
organized an expedition to visit
the Bearded Vultures in their
home.

The previous day to our start
had been fine but low detached
clouds were scudding past the
mountain tops and there were
other signs of approaching wild
weather. At daylight heavy

drifting clouds covered all the

upper portion of the sierra. Had
I been free to do so, I would
have put off the expedition

43 The Bearded Vulture

but my friends, upon whom I depended entirely to handle the
ropes, had only limited leave of absence and so, strongly against
my better judgment, we set out When less than 1,000 ft. above
the sea we entered the clouds and the rain came on and persisted
for three days and three nights. We got within half-a-days ride
of our cliff but it was absolutely out of the question to proceed
further amid the precipices and we had perforce to retire dis-
comfited. Our return through the mountains was not without
adventure since the burns were all in full flood.

Despite this third repulse, I was still sanguine of success, for
I reasoned that nobody else would be likely to get at the nest
and that if I but gave the birds sufficient time before returning
to the attack they would have hatched out their young and |
would be rewarded by being able at any rate to photograph the
young Bearded Vulture in its nest. It savours somewhat of
counting one’s chickens prematurely, but from what I had seen of
the Vultures the preceding year and from what I knew of their
habits when unmolested, I felt sure that they would again nest
in the same cliff this year. I had reckoned on re-visiting the spot
in about four weeks but owing to wild weather in the sierras it
was close on seven before I once again found myself within striking
distance of the great cliff.

It was on a fine but cold morning very early in April that we
rode out from our halting place of the previous night and proceeded
to work our way up the mountain. After some hours we arrived
at our old point immediately below the nest. The cold was intense
and we lit a huge bonfire of scrub and heath to warm ourselves
whilst we watched the cliffs. It was whilst thus employed that a
Bearded Vulture came sailing over us quite low down anxiously
turning its head towards the cliff and on us alternately as it passed.

I now felt confident that the nest must be occupied. Nor was I

Fourth Expedition, 1907 439

mistaken, for shortly afterwards, a Bearded Vulture’s head appeared
peering at us over the edge of the great nest, which for convenience
sake, I have styled ‘‘No. 2” in the preceding chapter. With the
telescope it was as easy to see the bird as if close at hand. Surely
no bird ever looked so savage with its cruel pale orange eye
encircled with crimson fixed on us. The jet black ‘‘ eyebrows” and
““moustache’”’ (it is sadly unscientific but exactly expresses the
general appearance) as well as the shaggy black beard, seern alike
designed to give the bird an aspect of malevolence and ferocity,
which certainly are not merited. Appearances are assuredly against
a Bearded Vulture for despite this seemingly ferocious demeanour
it exhibits far greater confidence in man than do Griffons, as ts
shown by its choice of nesting places at times near human
dwellings. On .the other hand, notwithstanding all tales to the
contrary, the Bearded Vulture is vastly more alarmed than is the
Griffon when its nest is approached and simply takes wing and flies
away, regardless of the fate of its offspring, in this trait much
resembling its smaller relative the Neophron. The following
account of my experiences at the nest, which may be taken as a
typical instance, will, I think afford proof of this.

Having watched us intently for a time, the old bird lowered her
head and was lost to view. I was now certain the nest contained
young and we made our preparations accordingly. We ascended
the talus as before and on reaching the point whence it emerged
from the chasm I escaladed the cliff on the far side of it, until
nearly on a level with the nest and took the photograph of the
crag which is here reproduced. It was whilst thus engaged that
the old bird, hearing the clatter of our feet on the loose stones,
once again put out her head. This time she was within shot of
us and we all had another opportunity of admiring her splendid
colouring. Her baleful look as she took wing was a thing to
remember.

440 The Bearded Vulture

In this picture the exact position of this nest is indicated by the
arrows. Immediately below it and rather below the centre of the
picture is a small terrace on which were some sticks and deébris
fallen from the big nest above. From this terrace runs the ledge
by which I eventually made my escape on the occasion of my visit
of the preceding year. As will be noted, it becomes rather awkward
to work along as it nears the right edge of the picture and so I
dropped down to the ledge below it which joins the talus a few feet
beyond the right bottom corner.' A close inspection will enable
the olive tree to be identified, which forms such an important
connecting link in the task of reaching this nest. It lies near
the top of the picture just below the top arrow. Nest No. 1 is not
visible in this picture, being hidden by the great natural bastion
or buttress of limestone which occupies the centre of it.

It was exciting work escalading the cliff abutting on the talus ;
at places the limestone had become riven and loosened and caused
some anxiety for those climbing below us. We soon found our-
selves on the same steeply shelving terrace as the year before and
proceeded to carry out the same plan for the descent. Securing
the centre of my 300 feet of rope to a crag, I once again laid one
portion down to the olive tree. Warned by the previous year’s
experiences | was extra careful in seeing to the “lead” of my own
rope and to the dislodging of loose rocks and stones, and fortunate
was it that I did so, for we found the whole ledge of the cliff in a
state of disintegration, more so than the year before owing to the
recent heavy rains. Finally, I cleared a reasonably safe passage
and was lowered down to the olive tree; here I led my life-line as
before round it and, easing it, got my weight on the lowering-line
and gave the fateful signal. As I dropped over the edge and
scraped down along the slippery and wet surface of the cliff, 1

1 See also General View of Cliff at end of book.

THE BEARDED VULTURE'S CLIFI1
Nest No. 2.

(The arrows indicate exact 5

a”
/
i ~.
i 7
A)
-
\

aby

= .

Find a Young Vulture in Nest 441

confess to experiencing a perfect agony of hopes and fears. Was
the nest tenanted or not? Arrived at the overhanging crag I
hauled myself inwards and as | came opposite the nest looked in
and saw nothing tn wt /

It was the same huge structure of sticks as of the previous year
amply lined with richly coloured brown sheep’s wool and goatshair.
Next instant | detected not four feet from me and flattened down
amid the brown wool a big young bird of colour identical with
the nest, squatting motionless with head and beak resting on the
thick masses of wool in front of it.

The revulsion was indescribable! Swinging myself into the
nest, I signalled for more rope and crawled into the cavern, which
was an awkward cramped place, as will be seen.

Although at the entrance the cavern was six feet high, the roof
shelved downwards until at the back it was not two feet above the
nest. The total depth of it was about 4 feet and the width 6 feet.
Crouching low in the inner corner of the cavern so as to avoid
the risk of slipping out, I proceeded to examine the place. The
nest measured almost exactly four feet in diameter with a bowl in
the inner side, 18 inches across. The young Vulture was about
the size of a tame duck and was covered with a thick close down,
pale umber brown in colour, save on the head, where it approached
to a vandyke-brown. The primary feathers and tail were just
emerging from their quills and were very dark brown and about
half-an-inch in length, whilst on the scapular tracts two bars of
shorter dark feathers were showing. The irides were of a dull
pale brown, the beak and feet horn-coloured. | had expected to
see a bird with a quick eye, but it was exactly the reverse, the
dulness and lack-lustre of it being quite remarkable. All the time
I watched it, it kept up a continuous and rapid blinking which
augured ill for photography.

But what impressed me most were the to me entirely novel

442 The Bearded Vulture

surroundings of the young bird. Besides the mass of sticks, small
boughs and branches of dried heath which formed the nest there
were several short fragments of old rope and a perfect Golgotha of
remains of animals. Within six inches of the beak of the bird was
a calf's foot severed above the fetlock and hard by it a donkey's
foot and fetlock joint whilst all around were many portions of the
legs of sheep and goats of various lengths. The whole external
nest was littered with the horny sheathings of goats’ and sheeps’
feet, many of considerable antiquity. One limb of a big goat was
particularly interesting as showing the manners and customs of
these birds. [It was a portion of a hind leg with hoof intact and
with the femur broken and splintered about half way up. The
skin had been neatly turned back below the hock and the bone
picked clean. Curiously there was no appreciable smell in the
nest, the gruesome remains being either quite fresh, as in the
case of the donkey’s foot, or dried up.

Having thus satisfied my curiosity to the full and made notes
of all I saw, I set to work to photograph the place. Here I was
met by an unexpected difficulty for, setting aside the short distance
available, the roof was so low that I could with difficulty look into
the finder. Also, wherever | crouched, either my feet or knees
obtruded themselves into the picture! I soon realized that it was
only possible to photograph the nest and young bird from one side,
namely, where I was doubled up. By good fortune in one corner
of the cavern there was a small fissure leading into the heart of
the rock and by means of squeezing my feet into this and otherwise
packing myself into the smallest possible space, I was able to get
my camera to work.

I have had many curious experiences in photographing birds’
nests but this was one of the most perplexing of the many awkward
situations I have ever been in. On my right, between me and the
edge of the cliff, was a sloping shelf of rock from the very back of

A Bearded Vulture’s Larder 443

o )

which I could get barely 3 ft. distance from the bird. The camera |
had was the old Kodak No. 3 of which the smallest aperture was
equivalent to F. 32. After endless trouble | managed to prop the
camera rigidly on the ledge. But every attempt to look into the
finder was frustrated by some particularly hard projecting rocks
against which | knocked my head in vain. So I had to content

myself with laying my camera on the object by rule of thumb and,

YOUNG BEARDED VULTURE.

vaph taken with magnifier at 24 tn, di

pressing the lever, gave a 4o seconds exposure. The whole thing
seemed so hopeless and uncertain that I decided not to risk wasting
any more films in this manner.

Before setting to work with the magnifiers | turned the camera
slightly so as to take in the front part of the nest and the profile of
the face of the cliff on the far side of the cavern. It was well that

I did so, for on my return to England | was enabled to join these

444 The Bearded Vulture

two photographs with a third (of which hereafter) and re-touch
the joins with the result as seen in the full-page illustration given.
I may mention here that this is the only made up picture in this
book and I trust that the peculiar circumstances may be considered
to justify such a proceeding. If the result is somewhat inartistic,
I can only plead its absolute reality and that it most faithfully
represents what I saw when huddled up in the cavern.

YOUNG BEARDED VULTURE.

From photograph taken with magnifier at 18 in. dtstance.

I now determined to take some portraits of the bird itself at
more convenient range, so adjusting my 24 in. magnifier, I
propped the camera on the rock at that distance from its beak
and set to work.

Of the three photographs taken at this distance two were

Photographing the Young Bird 445

fairly successful. In every case I aimed at 35 to 4o seconds
exposure. Once the camera slipped off its precarious stand on
the sloping ledge and the film was wasted.

I then replaced the 24-in. magnifier by the 18-in. one and
gently pushed the camera 6 in. nearer. The first attempt was so
far successful that I induced my subject to remain quiet for 35
seconds and with the result shown.

A second attempt was not so happy, for after twenty seconds I
had quickly to close the shutter as the bird got restless and, rising
up, settled down so as to present me with only a stern view.

I now made a mistake and endeavoured to turn my recalcitrant
sitter round. It at once rose in its wrath and gave vent to a
twittering cry very much like an infant Griffon. I was preparing for
the worst when to my great relief it subsided, eyeing me distrust-
fully. Once again I got the camera to work but as I pressed the
lever it rose and lurching forward to within a foot of the lens,
subsided again, glaring at it ferociously, | kept the film exposed
although the bird was obviously out of focus, but in about twenty-
five seconds its patience gave out and it made a determined attempt
to grab at the objectionable camera to his front, so I closed the
shutter. The result, as may be expected, was not very successful
but in the peculiar circumstances it has been given.

I subsequently reverted to the 24-in. magnifier and took three
more pictures, in two of which the bird, now thoroughly upset,
moved badly. The third was successful and, further, gave me a
good view of the roof of the cavern which, as matters turned out,
yas extremely useful to me when subsequently engaged in com-
piling the larger picture of the nest.

It was now nearly half-past one o’clock and I had been cramped
up in the cavern for over eighty minutes. I had now to decide on
the fate of the young bird which I would have much liked to
take back to my aviaries in England. It was of the age when

446 The Bearded Vulture

danger of cramp may be fairly discounted since its quills were
sprouting well. But then I remembered how | still lacked the egg
of the Bearded Vulture for my collection, the only egg of all the
ereat raptores which regularly inhabit Spain that I had not taken
with mine own hands, and so | decided to leave the young bird
unmolested in the hope that by doing so its parents might be
induced to nest again in the same cliff next year,

YOUNG! BEARDED VULTURE ATTACKS CAMERA.

From photograph with magnifier at 127%n, distance.

So I packed up my traps and, after signalling to my long-
suffering and half-frozen friends above, took the strain on the rope
and dropped on the ledge 30 ft. below, landing on the extreme
outside edge of it. Previous to quitting the nest I had thrown out

Fifth and Last Expedition, 1908 447

a few of the limbs of goats, &c., to show to my comrades, but most
of these had rebounded from the shelf they struck on and gone
down 150 ft. or more, a good proof of the vertical and overhanging
nature of the cliff, for the ledge under the nest is fairly wide.

During the whole of the time that we were engaged in the climb
(some two and a half hours) neither of the old Bearded Vultures
came near the nest, a marked difference from the conduct of
Griffons in such circumstances. Soon after we rejoined our mules,
one of the old birds returned and re-entered the nest. As I was
anxious to get a snap-shot of her leaving, | climbed up once again
to the point whence [| had photographed the cliff in the morning.
As | did so, she quietly slipped off before I could get my camera
into action. I then concealed myself for an hour in a cavern hard
by, waiting for her return, but she was not to be deceived and |
eventually rejoined my comrades.

As we made our way down the mountain, both old birds were
seen soaring over the cliff and were later on joined by a third
bird. On our homeward road we saw another pair of Bearded
Vultures, one of which was carrying the limb of some animal in
its left foot. Thus ended our campaign of 1907.

During the first week in January 1908 I made all preparations
for a renewed attack upon the stronghold of the Bearded Vultures,
but was delayed for over six weeks, first by continual bad weather
and then by the difficulty of finding safe men to form a lowering
party for what I now had good reason to know was a peculiarly
dangerous cliff. At last 1 arranged for one under the guidance
of “Lieutenant Gerald Hamond R.N. a son of a former comrade,
the late Commander Robert Hamond who had been my companion
in many of the birdsnesting expeditions near Gibraltar thirty
years previously, described in the earlier chapters of this book.
Favoured by splendid weather, we at length found ourselves
on 16 February immediately below the famous cliff. Sure enough

448 The Bearded Vulture

the birds were nesting not far off, for soon we saw one of them
on the wing and it was tolerably certain that its mate was
sitting. A careful inspection of the two nests with a telescope
showed that No. 1, the first we had visited in 1906, was in
occupation whereas No. 2, that of 1907, was obviously in a state
of disrepair and untenanted. After firing several pistol shots, in
the hope of causing the old bird, if in the nest, to show herself,
I sent one of my party up to the terrace 200 ft. above us. It was
not until he had twice fired my pistol close under the nest and
not 20 yards from it that our suspense was relieved by seeing
the old bird suddenly raise her head and look out. Eventually she
left the nest and gave us a splendid view of her as she swept
overhead in the brilliant sunshine. We lost no time in ascending
the talus and steep chasm and on reaching the summit 550 ft. above
the spot where our mules were picketed halted to recover our wind.
It was one of those peculiarly glorious days of early spring in
southern Spain and the view from our position was magnifi-
cent, causing us to pause for some time before setting to work.
So clear was the atmosphere that we could distinguish the gleam-
ing waters of the Atlantic near Cape Trafalgar over 50 miles
distant whilst northward the great plains of the Guadalete and
Guadalquivir, dotted with white towns here and there, extended
like another ocean, some 4,000 ft. below us.

We now left the summit and worked our way carefully down
the steep slippery slopes towards the edge of the big cliff. During
this operation one of my party (not a sailor) found the height more
trying than he had expected and we left him behind. This was
truly unfortunate as it materially weakened the man-power upon
which my calculations were based. The old adage that misfortunes
never come singly was well borne out in the subsequent opera-
tions. Amid the wild desolation of jagged crags and steep
slippery slopes which were wreathed in snow when | had visited

LSIN NI QUNLINA GACUVAL ONNOA

Misfortunes never come singly 449

the spot two years before, I could not precisely identify the point
where [| had then posted my lowering party. So selecting what
seemed to be the lowest suitable spot, I donned my canvas sling
and started away down the cliff. Very soon after I had posted
my reduced lowering party and dropped down some 50 ft. |
discovered I was losing my direction and inclining too much to the
left (facing the cliff). Whilst engaged in altering the lead of my
rope to the right so as to recover my proper line, a warning cry
from above caused me to look upwards. It was lucky I did so, for
my rope was bearing against a big perched rock balanced on the
edge of a crag some 30 ft. exactly above me. My Spanish assistant,
an ex-goatherd and daring cragsman, who had been with me on divers
occasions, now descended cautiously and after | had moved back a
few yards, toppled the rock over clear of me and it went thundering
down for hundreds of feet. Relieved from this unexpected peril,
I continued my descent until I reached the grassy ledge imme-
diately above the famous “ artichoke ” described in the last chapter.

And now I made one of those unfortunate mistakes which, like
so many mistakes in life, seem at their inception to be so trivial
and yet lead to very awkward results. In the interval which had
elapsed since I was last in this part of the cliff I had made many
other descents and I was rather uncertain of the exact line I had
then taken to get at the nest. Also, I had lively recollections of
the difficulties and dangers of the descent in 1906 upon the
occasion when the rope jambed and so was anxious if possible
to find a new and easier way down. So I signalled to the mule-
teer, nigh 4oo ft. below, to ask the exact position of the nest, and
he waved to me to move to the right (facing the cliff) of the
“artichoke.” This was reassuring, for here I saw a grassy gully
which, although nearly vertical and obviously slippery, looked
infinitely more inviting than did the projecting rocks immediately
below me of which I had such a disagreeable remembrance.

450 The Bearded Vulture

So I slipped into the gully and signalled ‘Lower away” and down
I went for over 80 ft., making futile grabs at loose rocks, masses
of saxifrage and plants, all of which came away in my hands
together with a shower of stones and soft black soil. Suddenly
I found myself scraping past a big projecting mass of rock and I
knew I must be close upon the nest. The whistle was in my
mouth (as it ever is in critical times) and I sounded on it shrilly
‘Hold hard” and was brought up with a jerk, swinging clear of the
cliff and exactly opposite the extreme right lower corner of the
great nest. I was too far down to see into it. A push with my
foot caused me to swing outwards and as I swung back and inwards
I grabbed at the cliff and by good fortune secured a fair handhold.
All I now required was a little more rope to permit of my hauling
myself into the nest. So I whistled for more rope but got no
response. Knowing well that it was simply a matter of time for my
strength to become exhausted, I now strove to secure myself to
the nest by the end of my rope. But no suitable point was to be
found and all my attempts at getting a sound handhold amid the big
sticks forming the foundations of the nest resulted in my simply
pulling them out and causing that part of the structure to slide!
A sketch of my unenviable situation at this instant is given at the
beginning of the chapter. Meanwhile my vigorous signals for
more rope were ignored and I came to the unpleasant conclusion
that I must have reached the end of my rope! Looking down
I could see the terrace only 50 ft. below me. If I could descend
to it, I might, by altering the lead of my rope to the left, re-ascend
on the proper line and enter the nest at its left side. Anything
was preferable to attempting to re-ascend that detestable gully with
its attendant loose rocks and mud bath. So I whistled again and
again but in vain. Without doubt I must be at the end of my
tether! Slowly but surely I felt my handhold relaxing and finally
I lost my grip and, as I did so, swung outwards with a horrid

A Critical Moment 451

jerk. There was nothing for it, but to try to re-ascend. To
my surprise my signal ‘‘ Haul up” was at once responded to.
But, bad as the descent had been the ascent was vastly more
unpleasant. Handhold there was none and all efforts on my part
to “lighten up” resulted in my detaching a fresh avalanche of
stones and débris of all sorts. Up I went, spasmodically and
painfully ; at times the rope bit deep into soft black soil in the
crannies between the vertical strata. When at length I reached
the top of the gully, I saw to my surprise my goatherd tending
the rope at the exact spot where Admiral Farquhar had joined
me two years before. It was some little time before I could
recover my breath sufficiently to discuss matters and, when | did
so, he explained that he had climbed down, since my signals were
not understood and they feared I might be in serious trouble. Glad
as I was to see him, I felt some misgivings when I recalled how
the lowering party was now reduced to Hamond and one other.
But I could not but admire the pluck of my goatherd who, true to
the traditions of his class, thoroughly mistrusting all ropes, had
without touching mine actually climbed down the successive low
cliffs above me by means of slippery grass-grown gullies to the
perilous point he now occupied. What this meant can in some
degree be imagined from the sketch at the end of the book.
The upward struggle had told severely on me and for one brief
moment the thought arose: was it worth it?) My recent experience
of being hauled up by two men was distinctly discouraging and the
prospects of another such descent and a similar return journey were
enough to deter anybody save and except one of the birdsnesting
guild inebriated with the exuberance of his calling. My intrepid
assistant craned his neck over the abyss and muttered ‘ J/a/o": he
was a man of few words and I knew well what that word con-
veyed when he used it and was not greatly encouraged thereby.
I fancied I detected in his impassive face a lurking contentment

452 The Bearded Vulture

that he had at last ‘‘seen me through,” as the expression has it.
The idea was intolerable. I asked myself what prevented my
going on and the reply came quick. ‘ This: if the rope is not
long enough to take you to the terrace below, you probably won't
be able to come up again with only two men to haul on you.”
It must be remembered that at this time I was by no means certain
that my lowering party was posted as far down the cliff as in
1906, hence my natural anxiety as to the length of my rope.
Also, my recent experiences when on a level with the nest pointed
to the rope being too short. The situation was maddening for
I realized clearly that in all probability it was a case of now
or never, so far as my taking the egg of the Bearded Vulture
was concerned. Then came the remembrance of the long series
of failures which had attended all my efforts to get this egg,
extending now well over thirty years. And then I recalled how
only a quarter of an hour before I had actually had my hand on
the coveted nest. My assistant had thoughtfully brought down
with him a too ft. coil of light Alpine Club rope, this would at any
rate take some of the strain off the lowering party. So making
it fast to a convenient crag | heaved the coil into space with a
fervent hope that it might prove long enough to aid me in my
descent and, if required, in my subsequent ascent. Taking a firm
hold of the light rope I was lowered 20 ft. to the little green
ledge alongside the ‘“ artichoke” whence I had a good view of
the work before me. Immediately below me the cliff descended
sharply for some 30 ft. or more to the rounded rocky bluff which
marked where it became vertical and in places overhanging. My
Alpine rope lay truly down the cliff and disappeared from view
over the bluff and I knew the nest was no great distance below
that point. The sight inspired me with fresh determination and
I gave the signal to lower and slithered away at speed. The
die was cast and soon I was scraping over the rocky bluff and

Victory ! 453

next moment was hanging just clear of the cliff. Fifty feet or so
more brought me opposite to the cavern at the same point as in
1906. Checking my descent by means of the Alpine rope, |
whistled ‘‘ Hold hard” and was thankful when I felt the rope
tauten. I brought up with the roof of the cavern about level
with my chin. As I lowered my head and peered into the nest,
I saw this time that it contained a big egg, richly marked with
shades of yellow and brown. Ad Last /

My troubles were not yet over for it was with the greatest
difficulty that I could induce my friends above to give me a little
slack rope to enable me to enter the cavern. Also the roof was
so low and the floor so shelving that it required much contortion
to crawl in and, having crawled in, to avoid slipping out. Having
made my position secure, I proceeded to examine the place. The
nest was identical with those of 1906 and 1907 so far as regards
materials, construction and size, but whereas all these had been
scrupulously clean, not excepting the one with the young bird,

the one I now occupied was in a horribly filthy state. In fact

I never saw—or smelt—a nastier one and I was forcibly reminded
of Dr. Stark’s description of this splendid bird: ‘In food, nest and
nesting place, it is simply a big Neophron.” However, notwith-
standing dirt and evil smells, there was the egg I had come forth
to seek and to photograph. I now spied a second egg lying at the
back of the nest against the wall of the cavern, broken into two
large and several smaller portions. These | piously collected on
the off-chance of my being able to piece them together.

The work of photographing this nest was peculiarly trying and
difficult, for the available space and head room were much less
than in the nest of the previous year; 2} ft. was the greatest
distance I could work at and then I could not use the finder of the
camera. In order to guard, as I fondly hoped, against all possibility
of failure, | had brought with me two cameras and with these |

454 The Bearded Vulture

proceeded to take an exhaustive series of views of egg and nest
at 22, 2 and rd ft. distance.

I now had to decide upon my line of retreat. The extreme
end of the Alpine rope dangled just level with the nest, showing
that I was almost exactly roo ft. below my assistant and I reckoned
he was about 150 ft. below Hamond (as it turned out he was some-
what less). As my 2-inch rope measured 300 ft., I calculated I
could count on about 50 ft. to take me downward and the friendly
terrace below me was certainly not more than 60 ft. Anyway it was
worth a trial. So I cautiously unbent the rope which encircled me
and was secured to the canvas sling and made it fast to the thimbles
on the sling at its extreme point so as to utilize all the rope
I could. By this means, including the slack I had coiled down in
the nest, I gained some 1o to 12 ft. Grasping the rope firmly,
I signalled Stand-by” and as I felt it tauten I slid out of the
nest and in a moment of sheer thoughtlessness, begot of my
success, sounded ‘‘ Lower away.” The instant the rope began
to run out, I realized I had made a serious error for I was
descending at speed with my whole weight on my hands or
rather on my one sound arm. There was no time for thought,
still less for any signalling and I did the only possible thing,
namely quickly lowered myself hand over hand until I felt
the sling take the weight of my body, as it should have
done in the first instance. Thus occupied [I was naturally
unable to steady myself or minimize the gyration of the rope and
I rattled down, now banging one camera now the other and now
the box containing the precious egg, as well as my knees and
elbows against the cliff until I landed with a bump on the rocks
below, all well but somewhat shattered. My left arm for a time
was quite numb and useless, not having had such a_ strain
put upon it since | was so badly smashed at Graspan in 1899.
A short rest however brought me round and as I| disengaged

Nunc Dimittis 455

myself from the rope (of which it turned out there was several
feet to spare) I breathed a heartfelt Mane azmittes; for had |

EGG OF BEARDED VULTURE. NEST IN DARK CAVERN.

Irom photograph taken with a magniter at 18 in. distance

(Size of egg 3°3 in. 2°6 in.)

not at last succeeded in the one remaining object of my_ bird-
nesting life ?
The persistent run of ill-luck which accompanied me through

out this protracted campaign did not even now desert me. For

456 The Bearded Vulture

the numerous photographs which I had obtained with such peculiar
difficulty turned out to be failures, owing to the films being defec-
tive! Since the cartridges were perfectly fresh and had been
properly kept in tin-boxes, this was as unexpected as it was vexa-
tious. In the absence of anything better I give the best of a bad
lot. Many of them were entirely obliterated by a black fungus-like
growth. But if ill-luck attended me in these repeated attempts,
I feel I ought to be peculiarly thankful for having come out unhurt
from a series of minor accidents.

Soon after regaining the point where our mules stood | was
rejoined by my companions from above. The whole business had
taken just three and a half hours, I then learnt from Hamond
that the reason he gave me no more rope when I was clinging
to the nest in my first descent was that my whistle signals were
indistinguishable. Probably this was due to my being under a
big projecting rock combined with the echoes caused by this and
the adjacent caverns behind the great limestone buttress, for as soon
as I swung out clear he heard my signal ‘‘ Haul up” distinctly.

Thus ended my long-drawn-out campaign after the Bearded
Vultures. In many respects it was not more risky than other
similar expeditions and climbs after Eagles’ and Vultures’ nests.
Since however it chanced to involve a series of misadventures and
incidents, more or less exciting to the actors, but all eminently illus-
trative of the ups and downs attending the use of ropes on unknown
cliffs, I have described it at length and have also reproduced the
sketch | made of the cliff on the spot. There is nothing very novel
in what I depict, but the sketch gives a fairly accurate view of this
fine cliff which is highly characteristic of the peculiar sites favoured
by Bearded Vultures as nesting stations.

A final word as to the. behaviour of the old birds. Shortly
after leaving the nest when the pistol shots were fired, the female
returned and entered it, and did not leave it again until I was

Ovum Coronat Opus 457

lowered close to it. She then departed and did not return until
the whole party had assembled in the valley, some 300 ft. below.
So much for the tales of Bearded Vultures attacking those who
molest their eggs or young!

As a set-off to my bad fortune in the photographic business
on this memorable occasion, | have the gratification to record that,
thanks to the skill of one of the staff at the British Museum of
Natural History, the fragments of the broken ege were successfully
pieced together, with the result that I am now the proud possessor
of a pair of beautifully-coloured eggs of the Bearded Vulture,
which find a fitting’ resting-place in my collection in the centre
of a tray containing sundry pairs of the handsomely-marked eggs

of the Neophron !

THe Enp.

459

INDEX.

ABERDEEN Terrier and Eagle Owls, 327
Accentor collaris, 305
Accipiter nisus, 176
Acrocephalus turdotdes, 99
Aédon galactodes, 158
Lgialitis curonica, 128
Aguila imperial, 207
» Megra, 198, 207
» veal, 207
Alauda betica, 129
a brachydactyla, 129
” calandra, 129
Alcala de las Gazules, 268
Alpargatas, 36
Alpine Accentor, 305
5 Club ropes, 80
Apes’ Hill, 239, 310
Aguila adalberti, 196, see White-shouldered Eagle
» chrysaétus, 355, see Golden Eagle
» mogtilnik, 196
» vapax, 197
Ardea purpurea, 95
Ardea ralloides, 112
Ardeola russata, 94
Arzila, 239
Astur palumbarius, 173

Ba:TICAN Short-toed Lark, 129

Barbary, 278

Barrosa, 239

Bayuda Desert, 266

Bearded Vulture, 304, 306, 375, 407-457 ; nest of, 374, 424; plumage of, 409, 410, 414; time
of nesting, 410-411; flight of, 413 ; encounter with Griffon, 416; young, 441

Bee-eater, 161; number of eggs, 163; nest of, 163-43; habits of, 163-4 ; St. Bee-eater’s Day
163; eggs of, 163

Bee-hives, cork, 163

Belon, ruins of, 233, 239, 386

Bird-life, Taking of, 4, 6

Birdsnester, true, 7

460 Index

Birdsnesting, 3 ; author’s devotion to, 11-12; on Active Service, 17-20; preparing for in wild
country, camping out and equipment, 21-38; in the Spanish Marshes, 91-93, 104-106,
109-112

Birds, stuffed, 4 ; cage, 9

Blackbird, 158; eggs, 159; in Bonelli’s Eagle’s nest, 352

Blackcaps, 9

““ Black Eagle,” 198, 207, 208

Black Kite, 170-173 ; nesting-place of, 171-2 ; nest of, 173

5, Wheatear, 289-291 ; plumage of, 289 ; nest of, 289-291 : eggs of, 291

» winged Stilt, 206

» Vulture, 199, 210-232, 414; favourite nesting-place of, 210-211 ; plumage, weight,
and size of, 213 ; expanse of wing, 213 ; number of eggs, 217 ; nest and eggs of, 225

Bluejackets climb round Rock, 52, 317

Blue Rock Thrush, 284, 287, 289, 291, 317; date of nesting, 285 ; eggs of, 289

Bonel, the Brothers, 307

Bonelli’s Eagle, 50, 313, 318, 328, 330-354; plumage of, 336, 337, 340; young, 336-7; size,

3373 nesting-place, 338, 345-6; nest of, 339, 342; eggs, 339, 342; food of, 339;
kept in confinement, 352-353 ; flight of, 353; takes Partridge, 354
s» Warbler, 157, 158

Booted Eagle, 172, 177, 178-185 ; plumage of, 178; nesting-places, 179-180; nest of, 179,
180; eggs of, 180; young, 182; colour of, 182 ; taming, 182-184; flying to Falconer’s
“lure,” 184; lost at sea, 185.

Brigandage, 307-309

British Museum of Natural History, 340, 388, 400, 457

Brown-necked Raven, 243

Bruce, James, the Traveller, 410

Bubo ignavus, 311, see Eagle Owl

Buff-backed Egret, 94, 130, see Egret

Bull, in reed beds, 100 ; young bulls, 126: chased by a, 127; dislike for Englishmen, 127-8 ;
hunted up a tree, 200-201 ; fighting bulls, 202 ; “ mild-mannered ” bulls, 202

Bunting, Cirl, 12
of Common, 129, 267, 305
. Rock, 305

Bustard, see Great and Little Bustard, 131, 149

Buzzard, Common, 157, 186, 187, 216, 330, 331

CALANDRA Lark, 129, 267

Camels, “ Wild,” in Spain, 15

Cameras employed, 42-46 ; camera stand, 47

Canvas sling, 81

Carabineros, 295 ; fight with, 296

Carine noctua, 161

Carteia, ruins of, 233

Casting-line and weight, 64-68

Cattle, in reed-beds, 100 ; a “bad cow,” 126; “ Lagartijo,” 127; herdsmen, 126, 201
Cetti’s Warbler, 157 ; favourite nesting-place of, 157; eggs of, 157
Chaffinch, 157, 216

Charles V.’s Wall, 287

Chelidon urbica, 283-4

Chiff-chaff, 6, 157

Index 461

Chough, nesting-place of, 305

Ciconia alba, 94

Circaétus gallicus, 185, see Short-toed Eagle
Circus eruginosus, 96, see Marsh Harrier

”

cineraceus, 104
cyaneus, 1O4
macrurus, 1O4

Ciscar, Laja del, 86, 87

Cisticola cursitans, 129

Cliff Climbing, 71-90; qualifications, 73; Ropes, their dangers and their uses, 73-78 ;
travelling naturalist and professional cliff-eggers, 79 ; size and nature of ropes, 79-82 ;
whistle signals, 85-86; author’s silk rope, 60, 160; Alpine Club rope, 220, 226

Climbing irons, 68

Coccystes glandarius, 237

Colmenares, 163

Common Blackbird, 158 ; number of eggs, 159; in Bonelli’s Eagle’s nest, 352

”

Buzzard, 157, 186, 216, 330, 331

Chough, 305

Crane, 107; habits, 107-8; line of migration, 109; favourite nesting-places,
109-10; locating nests, 111-117; simulating disablement, 114, 115; nest and
eggs, 117-121 ; young, 122

Raven, difficult climb to nest, 60-63, 157, 209, 236, 241-250; number of eggs,
242, 244 ; puzzling assemblages of, 242 ; identifying the, 243-4; eggs of, 244;
dates of nesting, 245; cunning habits of concealing nesting-place, 245-248,
378-380

Swallow, 157, 282, 284

Wren, 282 ; nesting-places, 282; nest of, 282

Contrabandistas, 295-296
Coots’ nests, 94, 96, 101
Cork bee-hives, 163

”

Woods, in the, 156-165, 181, 185, 186, 383

Cormorants, 236, 300
Corvus capensis, 19, 20

”

corax, 241
tingttanus, described by Colonel Irby, 243

Coto de Donana, 15, 171
Cotyle riparia, 282

”

rupestris, 282

Crag Martin, 282, 284; nest of, 282-3; eggs of, 283, 284

Crane, 107, see Common Crane

Crested Lark, 10, 11, 129

Cross-breeding cage birds, 11

Crow, South African, 19

Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, 14; “ Wild” camels and Flamingoes, 15; silk rope, 89 ;
young Bearded Vultures, 411

Cueva del Cuervo, 248, 377

Cueva del Gato, 300, 301

Culebrera, 185

Curlew. 105 ; Stone-, 128

462 Index

DARTFORD Warbler, 237
Donana, Coto de, 15, 171
Doroteo, the woodsman, 217-2
Dunalley, Lord, 286

EAGLE, Bonelli’s, 330, see Bonelli’s Eagle
eS Booted, 178, see Booted Eagle
Snake (or Short-toed), 185, see Snake Eagle
» Golden, 355, see Golden Eagle
,, White-shouldered or Imperial, 196, see White-shouldered Eagle
“ Black Eagle,” 198, 207, 208
Bagle Owl, 186, 311-329, 353, 358; nesting-places, 312, 315; eggs, 315, 318; young, 319;
number of eggs, 320-1 ; prey of, 324-5, 326-7, 328; plumage of, 327; cry of, 329
Eggs, collectors of, 5; exchangers, 5 ; exchanges, 7, 342; extermination of species, 7-8
Egret, 94, 130
Egyptian Vulture, 75, 248, 372-386, 408 ; favourite nesting-places, 210, 373, 376-8, 382;
plumage of, 273, 372-3, 376; eggs of, 373, 374-5, 384, 385 ; migration of, 373 ; food of,
374 3 nest of, 374; young, 375
Emberiza cla, 305

FALCO peregrinus, 305

Falconry, 10 ; Bonelli’s Eagle used in, 331 ; Booted Eagles, 182-184

Falcons, 10; Peregrine, 79, 148, 236, 262, 305, 373; and game preserving in Spain, 165

Fantail Warbler, 129

Farquhar, Rear-Admiral Arthur M., 76, 92, 169, 247, 321, 346, 348, 420, 423, 426, 451

“ Fauna of South Africa, The,” Sc inter and Stark’s, 433

Felis catus, 239

Fergusson, Major Harry James, 61, 127, 142, 148, 198, 286, 304, 312, 336

Flamingo, 15 ; eggs, 15; flight of at Trafalgar, 237

Flowers and Plants in Spring, 132, 153, 235, 207; Arbutus, 294; Asphodel, 125 ; Almond
Blossom, 309; Bulrush, 92, 195 ; Cistus, 269 ; Convolvulus, 126, 267 ; Great Mace-reed,
92; Laurestinus, 294; Mediterranean Squill, 125; Oleander, 310; Peonies, 309 ;
Purple Iris, 126; Reeds, 92, 110-111, 113-120; Rhododendron, 294; White Heath, 294

Foxes, 304

Frere, Sir Bartle, 333

Fringilla serinus, 159, see Serin Finch

Frogs, 268

GALERITA cristata, 129

Gallinule, Purple, 99

Gibraltar, Rock-climbing and cave-exploring, 48-57 ; Ospreys, sites of nests, 252 ; Blue Rock
Thrushes, 286-289 ; Black Wheatears, 289-290; Eagle Owls in 1776 and 1876, 312;
Bonelli’s Eagle, 331-332

Glareola torquata, 112-128

Golden Eagle, 196, 197, 203, 207, 301, 337, 339, 355-371, 382, 409; eggs of, 203, 362, 366,
370; weight of, 356; span of wing, 356; nesting-places, 357, 358, 360, 364 ; food of,
358; nest of, 362

Golden Oriole, 159-160; protective colouring, 159; eggs, 160; nest of, 160-1

Index 463

Golden Plover, 149
Goldfinch, 11, 157
Goose, Wild, 104, 147; Grey-lag, 104; call bird, 342; tame goose’s eggs, 342-344
Goshawk, 10, 173-176; retiring habits, 173-174; eggs of, 174,176 ; identifying bird, 175-6
Grass Snakes, 95, 128
Great Bustard, 90, 95, 105, 128, 131-148 ; habitat, 132-4; question of migration, 134; in its
glory, 135-136; mating habits, 136-7; antics of, 136-8; favourite nesting-place, 138-140;
number of eggs, 140-3; hatching out, 142-4; weights of, 144-5; flight of, 145-7;
encounter with Eagle, 147-8
Great Reed Warbler, 99
» Spotted Cuckoo, 237
5 P Woodpecker, 157, 161
» Litmouse, 157, 216
Grebe, Great Crested, 99
Green Cormorants, 236
Greenfinches, II
Green Plover, Peewit or Lapwing, 206
Griffon Vulture, 387-406; nest and eggs, 87; favourite nesting-place of, 210; number of
eggs, 217 ; a Griffons’ cliff, 273-277; a famous colony, 299, 340; cleanliness of, 388-9 ;
nesting-places, 390, 393, 394; dates of laying, 395; nest-building, 395-6; young, 277,
398; feigning death, 398-400; plumage of, 4oo; weight of, 4o1; span of wing, 4o1;
identifying the bird, 402; Golden Eagles and Griffons, 357, 366 ; ‘“‘ marked” eggs, 394;
size of, 398; defending nest, 403; wounded bird attacking, 404; marvellous numbers,
405; habits when resting, 405-426; encounter with Bearded Vulture, 416
Grus communis, 107, see Common Crane
Guadalquivir, marismas of, 14-15
Guardia Civil, 298 ; admirable corps, 307; method of dealing with brigands, 308 ; the fate
of “ Monte Cristo,” 309
Gulls, 105, 243, 256
Gypaétus barbatus, 407, see Bearded Vulture
Gyps fulvus, 387, see Griffon Vulture

HamonpD, Lieut. R. Gerald, R.N., 447, 451, 456; Commander Robert N., R.N., 447

Hancock, John, of Newcastle, 4

Hand Cameras employed, 42-46

Harriers, 102, 103, 130, 169, 187, 311; Hen, 104; Pale-chested, 104; nest of young, 105 ;
their spirited defiance, 105-6 ; and game preserving in Spain, 165

Hawking, 10, 182-4, 331

Hawks, 190, and game preserving in Spain, 165

Herdsmen, 126, 201

Herons, Purple, 95, 96, 98, 1o1, 102 ; nests, 96 ; Common, misnamed Crane, 108

firundo rustica, 157

Hoopoe, 161, 237

House Martin, 283, 284, 301

Hume, Allan, “ Notes on Indian Birds,” 190, 213, 331, 433

Hunt, Edward, 434

flydrochelidon hybrida, 99, 112, see Whiskered Tern

fypolais polyglotta, 158

464 Index

IBEX, 304

[bis, 243, 373

Imperial Eagle, 196 ; Spanish, 196

Irby, Colonel L. H., 14-15, 21, 87, 104, 109, 134, 141, 158, 161, 162, 173, 174, 189, 192, 197,
199, 213) 214, 234, 243, 245, 292, 313, 331, 357, 409, 410

Irvine, Captain J. D’Arcy, R.N., 22¢

Ivy and tree-climbing, 177

JACKDAw, 12, 305
Jay, 157

KESTRELS, 130, 236, 306, 324, 325
Kites, 169, 190, 216 ; and game preserving in Spain, 165, see Biack Kite, Red Kite
Knoy’s, Rev. A. E., “ Ornithological Rambles in Sussex,” 14

LACERTA ocellata, 128
Laishley, Richard, “ British Birds’ Eggs,” 12
Laja del Ciscar, 86
Lammergeyer, see Bearded Vulture, 407
Landseer’s “ Eagles attacking Swans,” 356
Lanius rufus, 159
Lapwing, Peewit, or Green Plover, 314, 324, 325
Larks, 9, 129
La viuda Varela, 201
Leptoptilus crumentferus, 386
Lesser Black-backed Gulls, 236, 243
Lilford, Lord, 4 ; visits Captain Verner’s Falcons, 10, 14, 15, 21, 68, 140, 168, 173, 214, 287, 409
Limestone cliffs, dangers of old, 303, 347
Linnet, II, 12
Little Bustard, 105, 149-155 ; beautiful plumage of, 150; flight of, 150; methods of approach-
ing, 150-1 ; difficulty of finding nests, 152; nesting habits, 153 ; number of eggs, 153-4
Little Ow], 161
» Ringed Plover, 128
Lizards, 169, 182, 186, 187, 193; and game preserving in Spain, 165
Locustella luscintoides, 198

MAGNIFIERS, use of, 45

Mallard, 95

Marabou Stork, 386

Marismas of the Guadalquivir, 14, 15
Marsh Harrier, 96, 98, 99, 101, 102, 104 ; young, 106
Marten cat, 380

Martins, 282-284

Meade-Waldo, Edmund G. B., 133
Melodious Willow Warbler, 158
Merlin and Crested Larks, 1o
Merops apiaster, 161-164

Milvus ictinus, 166, see Red Kite

3 migrans, 170, see Black Kite

Index 465

Mistle Thrush, 12

Montagu’s Harrier, 104

*“ Monte Cristo,” the latest brigand, 307; his fate, 308
Moorish remains, 281, 297

Moorish villages, 296-8

Mustela foina, 380

NAPIER, Major Hon. Robert, 285 ; Lord, of Magdala, 141, 285
Natural History, British Museum of, 340, 388, 400, 457
Neophron, 387, see Egyptian Vulture
Neophron percnopterus, 372, see Egyptian Vulture
Nests, stone-built, 292-3
Newton, Professor Alfred, 144, 254, 409
Nightingales, 9 ; in Andalucia, 158
Nisaétus fasciatus, 330, see Bonelli’s Eagle
s pennatus, 178, see Booted Eagle
“Notes on Indian Birds” (Allan Hume), 190, 213, 331, 433
OCELLATED Lizards, 128, 130, 169, 186, 187, 374
(Edicnemus scolopax, 128
Onole, 159
Oriolus galbula, 159, see Golden Oriole
“Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar,” Irby’s, 14, 313, 409
“ Ornithological Rambles in Sussex,” Knox’s, 14
Orphean Warbler, Western, 155
Ospreys, 236, 251-264, 373, 427; nest, Gibraltar, 51-52; favourite nesting-places of, 253:
foot of, 253-4; fishing, 255; eggs of, 256, 263; nest of, 263
Otis tarda, 131, see Great Bustard
» ¢etrax, 149, see Little Bustard
Owl, Scops, 161 ; Little, 161; Eagle, 311

PANDION haliaétus, 251

Parent birds, slaughter of, 6, 8

Partridges, 206, 324, 339, 352, 354, 358; and game preserving in Spain, 165

Pedrero, 290

Peewit, Lapwing, or Green Plover, in White-shouldered Eagle’s larder, 206 ; in Eagle Owls’
larders, 314, 324; caught by Eagle Owl, 325

Peregrine Falcon, 10, 79, 236, 305, 373

Petrocossyphus cyanus, 284, see Blue Rock Thrush

Photography in Birdsnesting, 40-47 ; the advantages of the hand camera, 42-46

Photography, 90, 176, 190-1, 194, 226-8, 248-250, 263-4, 318, 321, 349, 362, 366, 378-9, 400,
403-4, 443-5, 453-45 455-6

Purga bueyes, 94,130

Phylloscopus bonelliz, 157

Pillars of Hercules, 310

Pipits, 130

Plover, Lesser Ringed, 128; Golden, 149; Green, 314, 324, 325

Porphyrio ceruleus, 99

Powys, Hon. Thomas, 287

466 Index

Pratincoles, 112, 128

Prehistoric remains, 233, 270, 281
Prittie, Hon. Henry O’C., 286
Puerto de Guadarrama, 231
Purple Gallinule, 99

Purple Heron, 95-98, 102
Pyrrhocorax graculus, 305

QUEBRANTA-HUESOS, 433-434, see Bearded Vulture

RABBITS, 182, 206, 238, 239, 339, 352, 358, and game preserving in Spain
Raven, 241, see Common Raven

Red Kite, 166-170 ; flight of, 166-168; nest of, 168; trapping old bird, 168
Reptiles, 169, 181, 186

Retriever, in Crane’s Nest, 119-120; severs rope on Eagle Owls’ cliff, 321-322
Riff Coast, 310

Rock Bunting, 305

Rock Sepulchres, 270-1

Roe deer, 163, 216

Rock Doves, 282, 300, 306, 359

“ Rock Eagles,” 331

Ronda, 295, 298, 303, 309

Rope-soled shoes (or A/fargatas), 36

Ropes, weights and sizes, 80-82; a Jambed rope, 424, 426-427 ; silk rope, 31, 76, 87, 89-90
Rosia Bay 286

Rudolf, Crown Prince, of Austria, 14-15, 89, 171, 195, 204, 411

Rufous Warbler, Western, 158

St. BEE-EATER’S Day, 163
St. John, Charles, ‘‘ The Wild Sports of the Highlands,” 13
Salvin, Francis Henry, 10
Sand Martin, 282
Saunders, Howard, 21
Savi’s Warbler, 198, 204
Saxicola leucura, 289, see Black Wheatear
Sclater, W. L., 432
Scops Owl, 161 ; seeking nest of, 151
Sea Eagle, 234, 236
Secuestradores, 307
Seebohm, Henry, 203, “ British Birds’ Nests and Eggs,” 390
Selous, F. C., 9
Serin Finch, 157, 159
Serrania de Ronda, 239, 295, 305, 380
Short-eared Owl, 313
Short-toed Eagle, 185
* Larks, 129
Shrike, Woodchat, 159
Sierra Bermeja, 239

Index 467

Sierra Blanca, 239
» de Guadarrama, 215, 223, 228
» de Libar, 306, 308
» Nevada, 295, 357, 361, 411
Silk Rope. 31; as a “ traveller,’ 76; on an emergency, 87; Crown Prince Rudolf’s, 89 }.
manifold uses, go
Szson, 149
Sketch book and water-colours, 40
Sketching, 14, 39-41, 47, 318, 336, 338, &c.
Smugglers, 295-96
Snakes, 95, 169, 182, 186, 187, 193 ; and game preserving in Spain, 165
Snake Eagle, 172, 173, 180, 185-195, 186, 383, 384; size of, 186; weight of, 186; prey
of, 186, 187; nest of, 187, 189, 383; eggs of, number and variety, 190; young, 1933,
trapping a, 194-5
Snipe, 102, 132, 207
Solitario, 284
Soto Gordo, 384
Spanish Imperial Eagle, 196
Spanish Oak, 63, 159
Sparrowhawk, 10, 11, 176-177
Squacco Heron, 112
Stark, Arthur C., 109, 198, 206, 211, 214, 408, 409, 411, 413, 433, 453
Stork, 94, 109, 128
Stone-Curlew, 128
Subterranean passage through cliff, 275-276
x Stream, 300-302
Swallow, 284
Sylvia orphea, 158

TANGIER Raven, 243, 244

Tawny Eagle, 197

Teal, 206

Tern, Whiskered, 99, 112

Thompson, R., and Bonelli’s Eagle, 331

Titmouse, Great, 157

Tobacco growing, 296

Trafalgar, 237 ; Sierra above, 233-4; cliffs of, 235-240; Cape, 234 ; Bay of, 268

Traps, 35; a merciful plan, 35-36

Trapping, 35-30; Red Kite, 168; Booted Eagle, 182; Snake Eagle, 194-195; Common
Raven, 224; Egyptian Vulture, 384-385

Tree Climbing, art of, 58-60; Tom Brown’s advice, 59; use of ropes, 63-68; risks of
climbing i irons, 68 ; ropes and irons in combination, ee dress and equipment, 69-70 ;
ivy risks, 177

Tropidonotus natrix, 128

os viperinus 95

UPUPA epops, 161, 237

VARELA, la viuda, 201

468 Index

Vegas or Plains, 123-128, 130, 132

Verner, Colonel William J., cage birds, Nightingales and Blackcaps, 9; a keen Falconer,
10; Hawks and Falcons, 10; Merlins and Crested Larks, 10-11 ; breeder of hybrids,

11; early lessons in birdsnesting, I1-13
Vertigo, author's remedy, 49-50
Vipera latasti, 95, see Snakes
Viper, 95
Viperine Grass Snake, 95
Vision of birds, relative quickness of, 105
Vultur monachus, 210, see Black Vulture
Vulture, Bearded, 407, see Bearded Vulture
33 Black, 210, see Black Vulture
rf Egyptian (or Neophron), 372, see Egyptian Vulture
3 Griffon, 387, see Griffon Vulture

WAGTAILS, 130

Warblers, 157-158

Water-colour sketching and birdsnesting, 14, 39-41, 47, 318, 336, 338
Water-tortoise, 268

Weaver-bird, Black-and-red, 18

Western Orphean Warbler, 158

Western Rufous Warbler, 158

Wheatear, Black, 289, see Black Wheatear
Whiskered Tern, 99, 112

Whistle signals, 85-86

White, Rev. Gilbert, of Selborne, 252, 312
White, Rev. John, 252, 312

White-shouldered Eagle, 147, 185, 196-209, 216, 257 ; plumage of, 197-8, 199; nest of, 199;
length of, 199; weight of, 199 ; eggs of, 203 ; favourite food of, 206

White storks, 94, 128, 109
Wigeon, 102, 206, 325
Wilczek, Count Hans, 89
“Wild” Camels in Spain, 15
Wild Duck, 95
,, Birds, study of, 23
» Cat, 239
5, Goose, 104, 147, 187
“Wild Spain,” 21
Willow Warbler, 157
Wolley, John, on Cranes, 117, 122
Wolves, 304
Woodchat Shrike, 159; eggs of, 159
Woodpecker, Great Spotted, 157, 161
Wood Warbler, 157
Woods, Cork, 156-165, 181, 185, 186, 383

YARRELL, William, on Osprey’s foot, 254

ZOOLOGICAL Gardens, 286

Printed by Joun Bare, Sons & Dantecsson, Ltd., Great Titchfield Street, London, W.

The general “ lead ” of the
ropes used in the various
descents are shown by
lines drawn from the
Lowering Parties to the
Nests and Landing places
below.

WILLOUGHBY VERNER.

orere

p> st

General View of limestone Cliff, a Nesting Station of the Bearded Vulture.

Drawn from sketches made on the spot in 1906, 1907 and 1908. Details from photographs. Heights reckoned by aneroid and checked by rope measurement

NoTEs ON CLIMBS. NOTES ON CLIMKs.

Ist, 1906, and, 1906,
4th, 1908. ard, 1907
Feet
Summit of Cliff 54°

(Approximate height
above sea level,
4,370 ft.)

Lowering Party 470
(No. 1 and No. 4).

Feet
360 Lowering Party

No. 2 and No. 3.
Farquhar's Ledge 350 -

The “Artichoke” 330

(Point where rope
jambed).

305 Olive tree.

Position of climber
when rope jambed 265
260 Bearded Vulture’s

Nest of Bearded Vul- Nest. No, 2

ture. No.1 250

230 Landing place belo
Nest No. 2.

Landing place below
Nest No. 1 200

170 Main Terrace

150 Top of talus.

The general “ lead” of the
ropes used in the various
descents are shown by
lines drawn from the
Lowering Parties to the
Nests and Landing places
below.

WILLOUGHBY VeRNER.

Foot of Cliff °

(Approximate height
above sea level,
3,830 ft.)

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